tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22110289426110094282024-03-19T02:43:40.659-07:00LOS ANGELES TO TIERRA DEL FUEGOJoin me on the second stage of the Continental DivideDanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.comBlogger43125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-16690013316170047082010-03-17T08:19:00.000-07:002010-03-17T08:38:48.693-07:00Day 70-72 – March 14-16<strong><em>Ushuaia, Argentina</em></strong><br /><br />We spent three days hanging around Ushuaia taking side trips and preparing to ship our bikes back to the US—a lengthy process that involves assembling the customs papers for exportation and getting the packing materials.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp1J-srCCUxfizaTEx7WNBWVEhlS6iQsLpoA4grPkZm3VOTsRQFwwvib4OhARxlVipp2umWMYuZnQ1nAK41KCFeGSxyavfq9inSjE43ogCIy-SzX2kuflG8BuEs2HJZ1ojfHkv9oA6l9cd/s1600-h/P3140150.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp1J-srCCUxfizaTEx7WNBWVEhlS6iQsLpoA4grPkZm3VOTsRQFwwvib4OhARxlVipp2umWMYuZnQ1nAK41KCFeGSxyavfq9inSjE43ogCIy-SzX2kuflG8BuEs2HJZ1ojfHkv9oA6l9cd/s320/P3140150.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449623122648705522" /></a><br />We headed out of town to reach the farthest point south possible—the end of the road. On the way out of town, we passed the one golf course in the world that perhaps even Gary Oatey and Greg Foster have not played:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijUB1ZBYQ5ZdGspn6d1W94jLLt5fLSFAVV9xt1fkER5MqWX-zZscteyMfHnEm9tZgEYBRnxHMKX8hs2f3SJ-4B1PSC3BSxkSr8SSS4_belqW111Ye0djcBS1OXjFSFkcUTpB6N5kq9o1mx/s1600-h/P3140156.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijUB1ZBYQ5ZdGspn6d1W94jLLt5fLSFAVV9xt1fkER5MqWX-zZscteyMfHnEm9tZgEYBRnxHMKX8hs2f3SJ-4B1PSC3BSxkSr8SSS4_belqW111Ye0djcBS1OXjFSFkcUTpB6N5kq9o1mx/s320/P3140156.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449623260040814466" /></a><br />The cook at the golf course knows just what to do with golfers who pad their handicaps:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHBmeKDx8FZeYDXiX7qw7PtigIllpKh-sKmQ-Lh1Qen4bUmehkvGYTYlCn7_hPoKC0m-8-YU4fFIA7erFKUwjxUXR5LkD_TVwCV9xS8PbTr15zU53ZUceN2bM-gMltCDfTQIwANcKYLOQ/s1600-h/P3140159.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHBmeKDx8FZeYDXiX7qw7PtigIllpKh-sKmQ-Lh1Qen4bUmehkvGYTYlCn7_hPoKC0m-8-YU4fFIA7erFKUwjxUXR5LkD_TVwCV9xS8PbTr15zU53ZUceN2bM-gMltCDfTQIwANcKYLOQ/s320/P3140159.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449623367545377442" /></a><br />This would definitely be a challenging course as even in summer the winds never stop howling — if you don’t drive the ball hard enough, it’s likely to come back and hit you in the head.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6tPjT7GuyKlwMX4zZAMI3Z__yMrkKH2oZ9I_JnbgC-5qWn9grXP0irhv9wRP2c2QGj4t5-zD7V9QKt0KZH1mpq5t3cOtwf84Hk9GQzoos9lo88AVjJg7GG93mIv2WJ4uL-e4EEqArwUZT/s1600-h/P3140161.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6tPjT7GuyKlwMX4zZAMI3Z__yMrkKH2oZ9I_JnbgC-5qWn9grXP0irhv9wRP2c2QGj4t5-zD7V9QKt0KZH1mpq5t3cOtwf84Hk9GQzoos9lo88AVjJg7GG93mIv2WJ4uL-e4EEqArwUZT/s320/P3140161.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449623470189696834" /></a><br />We finally reached the end of the road, which was marked with a sign declaring that Alaska is 17,000 km away (but we certainly know that by road it seems to be a lot further than that. . .):<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYeFaZwFCacpUm-SBO5EGiVnHwfOR-NpsxN7X4gTvPqgBqI0nBG2pCJ4Zzbzocxd9J_P5dIE4EEOGIoDpjoxF5QBW2Mpi4HkbPH5m0DwDUHe_D3xbwEhs_AxNHoKuUhtsvMgLoJRivAo2D/s1600-h/P3140170.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYeFaZwFCacpUm-SBO5EGiVnHwfOR-NpsxN7X4gTvPqgBqI0nBG2pCJ4Zzbzocxd9J_P5dIE4EEOGIoDpjoxF5QBW2Mpi4HkbPH5m0DwDUHe_D3xbwEhs_AxNHoKuUhtsvMgLoJRivAo2D/s320/P3140170.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449623650547312002" /></a><br />On this second stage of the trip we travelled 13,000 miles – the US Continental Divide ride was 3,100 miles and the third and final portion of the Tierra del Fuego to Prudhoe Bay trip will also be approximately 3,100 miles for a total of 19,200 miles.<br /><br />I celebrated the end of the road by putting on my Santiago earthquake chandelier earring and lighting the anticipatory cigar that I have been carrying with me for 2.5months.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4AfUhrKJqr1e8c8HIDjnA01FoJO8AjbtqDt9BVawj07NvyOQbHRajudQdBrvdrPFgUi3Bda0f1YdNamUDpc1dm7F1U6hq8T0B1MV9l-coLCXHQKtWV7Nx0S8J0wtyQEun6TPDXYWK0jyH/s1600-h/P3140175.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4AfUhrKJqr1e8c8HIDjnA01FoJO8AjbtqDt9BVawj07NvyOQbHRajudQdBrvdrPFgUi3Bda0f1YdNamUDpc1dm7F1U6hq8T0B1MV9l-coLCXHQKtWV7Nx0S8J0wtyQEun6TPDXYWK0jyH/s320/P3140175.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449623994994047458" /></a>(photo by Vince Cummings)<br /><br />The rest of Argentina appears to be here as well:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNl2ZQCoApQ2xPtJf1F39yWhTJuXJkRdUPcNdgA1WR2YwaALMDM5SHpXTI5PrrbKFutqT83OjoZ5vNOTX1HgXbQ5d9zByWb38-ESJlakxC3rI7D7ZLvJyOeVnFfkm3dqkqTVMLO2UbrihO/s1600-h/P3140187.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNl2ZQCoApQ2xPtJf1F39yWhTJuXJkRdUPcNdgA1WR2YwaALMDM5SHpXTI5PrrbKFutqT83OjoZ5vNOTX1HgXbQ5d9zByWb38-ESJlakxC3rI7D7ZLvJyOeVnFfkm3dqkqTVMLO2UbrihO/s320/P3140187.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449624243002387906" /></a><br />It takes Helge, forever filming, two hours to break through the crowd and get the shot he wants:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh86mc9QCxGqKHvy87f2KGzpSUG_3yn1QsTjsmpopXiCfOrQDfngkUACvS9RoK4fuR3zV4q5Hzwh0-zCe4Jo46KSC78lK_8AMk3DPb57Kj34RXpVyDoOu89qXPSiSSt0LfnDKDuw99R4-RD/s1600-h/P3140171.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh86mc9QCxGqKHvy87f2KGzpSUG_3yn1QsTjsmpopXiCfOrQDfngkUACvS9RoK4fuR3zV4q5Hzwh0-zCe4Jo46KSC78lK_8AMk3DPb57Kj34RXpVyDoOu89qXPSiSSt0LfnDKDuw99R4-RD/s320/P3140171.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449624390588158018" /></a><br />We drive to the other side of Ushuaia for another photo shoot:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGz04oloSJ4MiNY6Et2uT-sVfbJG0OJl741Sncj3aa1emAsS_Sppqc4q0PMRsfJif4fKvZcA4Of6neBpxTyT1_H4cIoMpn6b8OoPvl02SMCThoE3zt8ZP478XTP-JZn8T7k-w7isWVRSRg/s1600-h/P3140200.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGz04oloSJ4MiNY6Et2uT-sVfbJG0OJl741Sncj3aa1emAsS_Sppqc4q0PMRsfJif4fKvZcA4Of6neBpxTyT1_H4cIoMpn6b8OoPvl02SMCThoE3zt8ZP478XTP-JZn8T7k-w7isWVRSRg/s320/P3140200.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449624536088333330" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj74bhGRbaQO3-qzC5d4bHjS3_mhD6fWsPGDeH4W2dRLEH5nm4Q50-rk6FiMvKPsKZL_uP0eMu5-cN5fnYS0CUrfg6SwbInRAACFMls-XAgs0ul1eidzn4NCvwDAOX1e4Szj-xpM_kY4hvk/s1600-h/2W3Y6602.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj74bhGRbaQO3-qzC5d4bHjS3_mhD6fWsPGDeH4W2dRLEH5nm4Q50-rk6FiMvKPsKZL_uP0eMu5-cN5fnYS0CUrfg6SwbInRAACFMls-XAgs0ul1eidzn4NCvwDAOX1e4Szj-xpM_kY4hvk/s320/2W3Y6602.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449624883337307154" /></a>(photo by Vince Cummings)<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj97Dv_NRngizwegqagIiKHH5ekMlynI-RXCqsDf6dt30jo4Tn-pAY4TUEqF-TSkAt6uvZQuBC9ZLbVIvPuNlLkKG-8hyphenhyphenxGWGZv4t1wdDDQ8jEIqykUSGxctIzoN2y_ypK7b-EU3aspqme-/s1600-h/2W3Y6607.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj97Dv_NRngizwegqagIiKHH5ekMlynI-RXCqsDf6dt30jo4Tn-pAY4TUEqF-TSkAt6uvZQuBC9ZLbVIvPuNlLkKG-8hyphenhyphenxGWGZv4t1wdDDQ8jEIqykUSGxctIzoN2y_ypK7b-EU3aspqme-/s320/2W3Y6607.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449624727173424306" /></a>(photo by Vince Cummings)<br />The intense prevailing wind affects the growth of the trees by essentially blowing the foliage up the hill:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXa4YsjWd4oIrXrRa_pPJzW-DLI3bdD5zHdowVYrndQ8X0105UUqPD0NPRSbK5xGb4gxt2loOMSSyVzxxN5jdfeHAIytWBdG1ltHx8-Zys5TAgdwutZ2BHT5_DhVhyzkJ_qvatEzV_lhhl/s1600-h/P3140210.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXa4YsjWd4oIrXrRa_pPJzW-DLI3bdD5zHdowVYrndQ8X0105UUqPD0NPRSbK5xGb4gxt2loOMSSyVzxxN5jdfeHAIytWBdG1ltHx8-Zys5TAgdwutZ2BHT5_DhVhyzkJ_qvatEzV_lhhl/s320/P3140210.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449625679867858434" /></a><br /><strong><em>March 15</em></strong><br />We began the day by searching for a place to wash the bikes. Due to hoof and mouth disease, the bikes will need to be spotless in order to pass inspection for re-entry into the US.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-S0MdPx3-Du6QcB5m_3fL5ckBCLYt8eLl8y7TijuEy3nqaQZR38q1vXgKC4ynWcWmpPcJNN6zvNK1JP9EAQT6XDDeJ-v1vFFeN8G5yb5qNEO1KE8Ze7-IJJY-I2LMHhciEP0HoalH327r/s1600-h/P3150214.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-S0MdPx3-Du6QcB5m_3fL5ckBCLYt8eLl8y7TijuEy3nqaQZR38q1vXgKC4ynWcWmpPcJNN6zvNK1JP9EAQT6XDDeJ-v1vFFeN8G5yb5qNEO1KE8Ze7-IJJY-I2LMHhciEP0HoalH327r/s320/P3150214.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449625903038974338" /></a><br />We dropped off the bikes looking positively dreadful . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9nTLIXnShUxhETFwYbugEheZS1j9Pq5gmVmnRJMiEP67M05S-_x3HoA-KaVQeqRlKo-hv-YqPkU1cTDPRTmVRzXBkfdJeMuqdl-IOELEC5R-ytKPwhIx6-FjY8xWIP72cdN_T1ffsXOgg/s1600-h/P3150219.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9nTLIXnShUxhETFwYbugEheZS1j9Pq5gmVmnRJMiEP67M05S-_x3HoA-KaVQeqRlKo-hv-YqPkU1cTDPRTmVRzXBkfdJeMuqdl-IOELEC5R-ytKPwhIx6-FjY8xWIP72cdN_T1ffsXOgg/s320/P3150219.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449626031488466274" /></a><br />. . .and a couple of hours and $17.00 later picked them up looking spotless.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj72OVK0a3O9h1D7YyTC5gwJMenPE4ZeYd_2GmiM4CJy6fPgYRmIGIFyE3MXiG13VxP6sROPyOIdJBmZg9HRwojuBfn9Oti2Vwc-UrcDXVHo2HL_PTNMsi7jk7jXSvVs74uDMr0WADZgxO_/s1600-h/P3150223.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj72OVK0a3O9h1D7YyTC5gwJMenPE4ZeYd_2GmiM4CJy6fPgYRmIGIFyE3MXiG13VxP6sROPyOIdJBmZg9HRwojuBfn9Oti2Vwc-UrcDXVHo2HL_PTNMsi7jk7jXSvVs74uDMr0WADZgxO_/s320/P3150223.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449626176140295906" /></a><br />Vince and I took a three-hour boat trip into the Beagle Channel to view coastal Ushuaia, which is nestled at the foot of the mountains.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRUVNf9AUpe5YV18_HcQiI6oj1H_oOvvOAvSm1no81MfpAzfANcEQRpENkdlYjCFLGxLdfNUAsSnPn6ycIN7HACyBdclWlLHummDuHahpFGn9e4uJQNphCTo5SeedWucpUOidLAfswXu3E/s1600-h/P3150228.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRUVNf9AUpe5YV18_HcQiI6oj1H_oOvvOAvSm1no81MfpAzfANcEQRpENkdlYjCFLGxLdfNUAsSnPn6ycIN7HACyBdclWlLHummDuHahpFGn9e4uJQNphCTo5SeedWucpUOidLAfswXu3E/s320/P3150228.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449626309670179522" /></a><br />We saw an island filled with cormorants having the same coloring and formal attire as penguins have: all white chests and black backs:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn8PqhJyyvcZLUd4uet1RGEr5Y4iuP___N22WnRThiTjRIWBMiCgA0j2O6V6pUcYdoYcw-5GVXvewHgEDBL67Bd5mEie4vbVGOpt7T7GKYiODnaNbc_Rk-k7t8HDaBVCh5tLP8W_1xX7ak/s1600-h/P3150236.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn8PqhJyyvcZLUd4uet1RGEr5Y4iuP___N22WnRThiTjRIWBMiCgA0j2O6V6pUcYdoYcw-5GVXvewHgEDBL67Bd5mEie4vbVGOpt7T7GKYiODnaNbc_Rk-k7t8HDaBVCh5tLP8W_1xX7ak/s320/P3150236.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449626455129712338" /></a><br />We also passed a rock covered with sea lions, with a bull lording over them all—it made us homesick, reminding us of Sunday mornings before the kids left for college…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOkdgcdokE_jWse8K515bN2ml0NlFPuNwnpNa3HNoGHJv5N790xeJ15cEYomvmeH_9EAuLgzL9ozkJ6b4y6_Aee-0MOk9j-2NlqH8LwslcCGzGS4WO7gk6hZSp6KS1-z4rdgLtF9MSvLE3/s1600-h/P3150240.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOkdgcdokE_jWse8K515bN2ml0NlFPuNwnpNa3HNoGHJv5N790xeJ15cEYomvmeH_9EAuLgzL9ozkJ6b4y6_Aee-0MOk9j-2NlqH8LwslcCGzGS4WO7gk6hZSp6KS1-z4rdgLtF9MSvLE3/s320/P3150240.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449626565206603426" /></a><br />. . . a time when we actually had some authority within the family. Sea Lion Rock had a familiar smell that I couldn’t immediately place, but then it hit me—it was, unmistakably, the odor wafting from the inside of one of the grandchildren’s hockey bags.<br /><br />Later at dinner, I had a chance to lecture Che Guevara on motorcycles and the merits of capitalism:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3OcnppbJiiBCWFizqvBC6l9WaXZBbENRNGjjkA8F_ISpOYtxBf6S0KNlTFI8WDhdQKfC1kI14uOkAhOiDTrZUBWNXUxh8So7P-4IaCW5kR0fbVyrm1hThETE9RWmhFq9yfX4RAjk6ML_c/s1600-h/P3150256.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3OcnppbJiiBCWFizqvBC6l9WaXZBbENRNGjjkA8F_ISpOYtxBf6S0KNlTFI8WDhdQKfC1kI14uOkAhOiDTrZUBWNXUxh8So7P-4IaCW5kR0fbVyrm1hThETE9RWmhFq9yfX4RAjk6ML_c/s320/P3150256.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449626896922475346" /></a><br />During these three days, we had the chance to speak with locals about Argentina. They all mentioned the horrible corruption in the government—no one seems to have any respect for their system of government. It’s been approximately twenty years since the military junta ran the country, and none of the people we spoke with thought it had gone particularly well. The country’s capital is Buenos Aires, where the elected officials live. The prevailing opinion here was that the officials think of themselves as citizens of Buenos Aires rather than of their represented communities. None of the people we met actually knew their elected representative. It appears that there is so much inertia in the government bureaucracy here that it is difficult for a leader to emerge who can make the claim that he will streamline the bloated democracy and stamp out corruption. Let’s hope that a leader emerges who can restore confidence in government here with transparency, honesty, integrity and dynamic leadership. And hopefully that leader will be able to reform the government democratically and not follow the authoritarian path some other South American countries have pursued.<br /><br /><strong><em>March 16</em></strong><br />We spent the day shopping, helping Helge conduct the end-of-trip interviews for his DVD of the trip, and loading our bikes in the shipping container. The container operation is always a “hurry up and wait” situation – we were ready to go at 11:00 a.m., but the container didn’t arrive until after 4:00 p.m.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLMDnX0MT8O3pU2ePFO8zVLPOsy3KucJTuuU0HzEXVkN7zc3Nmolew8jEUXYIvRWXojZwp3I1oxbNQ3fZtkKs8EycY6wIPCxq_G1aXeADxG83GuveyBZ5vv1H-2wsZP-lOGDrSXw1RZPOq/s1600-h/P3160269+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLMDnX0MT8O3pU2ePFO8zVLPOsy3KucJTuuU0HzEXVkN7zc3Nmolew8jEUXYIvRWXojZwp3I1oxbNQ3fZtkKs8EycY6wIPCxq_G1aXeADxG83GuveyBZ5vv1H-2wsZP-lOGDrSXw1RZPOq/s320/P3160269+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449627269317471202" /></a><br />The inspector at the port checks every bag looking for anything that could endanger the vessel. Helge loaded the bikes with scientific precision—each is held tightly by straps fore and aft so that the suspension is compressed. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Xgbw5dH2jkqt4p446dqkfYSSbuN4Y8TiYT7OvXF4dLfAnO21182lAklkKk4n_15t7rkeP5TpdXFAZtUAGMgPc3Z14WyAQe5rHyFHMiDYydiSPH3odeHlCbeiO3dq6WELAHLPqBpubi4k/s1600-h/P3160272+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Xgbw5dH2jkqt4p446dqkfYSSbuN4Y8TiYT7OvXF4dLfAnO21182lAklkKk4n_15t7rkeP5TpdXFAZtUAGMgPc3Z14WyAQe5rHyFHMiDYydiSPH3odeHlCbeiO3dq6WELAHLPqBpubi4k/s320/P3160272+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449627437351753266" /></a><br />We were lucky to have the opportunity to pack our own bikes, which was possible because the container was in a bonded area. Even though all the bikes are insured, it would be a huge hassle if one of them fell over in transit.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitDhBSb2TLxJ1E1FRjJsHwOT-cDvSqf0q9baCCssYtcR_OKeLEc9ItfMbYq6_rn2D8Nw4bDIYgn8WZYOw3XRsBT7Avnyyghh5GQMKVtMDZbzeFAGtrPJr_yD44101ZHUs7lhrpF-VhbEIR/s1600-h/P3160274+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitDhBSb2TLxJ1E1FRjJsHwOT-cDvSqf0q9baCCssYtcR_OKeLEc9ItfMbYq6_rn2D8Nw4bDIYgn8WZYOw3XRsBT7Avnyyghh5GQMKVtMDZbzeFAGtrPJr_yD44101ZHUs7lhrpF-VhbEIR/s320/P3160274+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449627621051355442" /></a><br />Thanks for sharing our journey!Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-46803850462252847232010-03-16T04:51:00.000-07:002010-03-16T05:08:39.071-07:00Day 68-69 – March 12-13<strong><em>Torres del Paine, Chile to Cerro Sombrero, Chile to Ushuaia, Argentina</em></strong><br /><br /><strong>Correction to previous blog 3-11-10:</strong><br />Helge and Roger were blown off their bikes by the wind and Vincent <em>nearly</em> fell off laughing at the spectacle. Relative to the judging of the Palomo award, of course transparency is the rule in all of South America – and for those of you who have requested the proceedings of the Palomo award deliberations, all you need to do is enter the code used to get on this blog followed by the last three digits of your grandfather’s social security number and submit it to www.argentine.chile/palomoaward/deliberations.com.<br /><br /><br /><strong><em>March 12</em></strong><br />We leave the ritzy Rio Serrano resort hotel just outside of Torres del Paine early in the morning. . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBazNkIo0tXuVas8DRnx0jcDBwUQhFQywUSeww9l2B7zA9mi5ZMAc9ofCIKxc4wEix-_KC7A466zEdDlmgyEwO0R0Fi8jPbzX75QNJD2QGHl0ZcmEzdL1MtOXXfLuZXVlKSHXpNJ4dpqGn/s1600-h/P3120001+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBazNkIo0tXuVas8DRnx0jcDBwUQhFQywUSeww9l2B7zA9mi5ZMAc9ofCIKxc4wEix-_KC7A466zEdDlmgyEwO0R0Fi8jPbzX75QNJD2QGHl0ZcmEzdL1MtOXXfLuZXVlKSHXpNJ4dpqGn/s320/P3120001+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449198537345169074" /></a><br />. . .and bid farewell to Torres del Paine.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwfS_wNN0TIi8Fo-pZ5fOzLTANAOnpNd8fsIpL88CIEI9zf0plvoMdLg9cq97gKQOsnm5fUPtQFNAQ9FFqIM9X5uNS57-PqqcikcJb-A5oIFduZYBNYkaQXJyFrOuhP6wNIKyYhPNgXyzL/s1600-h/P3120004+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwfS_wNN0TIi8Fo-pZ5fOzLTANAOnpNd8fsIpL88CIEI9zf0plvoMdLg9cq97gKQOsnm5fUPtQFNAQ9FFqIM9X5uNS57-PqqcikcJb-A5oIFduZYBNYkaQXJyFrOuhP6wNIKyYhPNgXyzL/s320/P3120004+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449198639448333730" /></a><br />It is beautiful to view from a distance and breathtakingly beautiful to view as Helge and Roger did – up close on their hike up one of the granite spires.<br /><br />We head southeast with the possible goal of staying in a hostel frequented by motorcycle riders in Cerro Sombrero. We travelled on a lovely gravel road tucked into the mountains. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaf5v25NuBL0GpfjCOo_WcOzXeu7sESFa6YkMfYoCUVxZosp_2zMLZfCUVyBeiiodJuU05PpwjDY4iSsCAiZFyX5kMlxXYbfdIZenMEjDBhXJfq9IR_X9iyLnuX2Ja9AWTZtXO9F2oZSNP/s1600-h/P3120008+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaf5v25NuBL0GpfjCOo_WcOzXeu7sESFa6YkMfYoCUVxZosp_2zMLZfCUVyBeiiodJuU05PpwjDY4iSsCAiZFyX5kMlxXYbfdIZenMEjDBhXJfq9IR_X9iyLnuX2Ja9AWTZtXO9F2oZSNP/s320/P3120008+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449198747514835378" /></a><br />. . .with some beautiful lake vistas.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoSl2OD3GmPV2f7egP66FRD7bppDhI1vaynGhQUMQupP7itXKCG_wFBpq_6QZve2oHwl8kGiq9EUAFIi7JntakVxg8bnw8tbBCggTT0pYZRB1YAtO1nkbJWNbEeFEbI_WY195pkujnBWNJ/s1600-h/P3120010+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoSl2OD3GmPV2f7egP66FRD7bppDhI1vaynGhQUMQupP7itXKCG_wFBpq_6QZve2oHwl8kGiq9EUAFIi7JntakVxg8bnw8tbBCggTT0pYZRB1YAtO1nkbJWNbEeFEbI_WY195pkujnBWNJ/s320/P3120010+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449199060892384386" /></a><br />We passed grazing lands with small rugged trees as tough as the land that they are in:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHx94NDkzgxTbjNSYgFUDpgKoP5g60L9kM22Uqb9ALCVg9yDJr2pmNQLP4c-Nk3iE0k4MiNryz7f-PqADFPLjeieE0AlbdTcKAXm8npGPIO5oGEejkDVbTxlBaC59FHTAPkQ5hBR8uviVs/s1600-h/P3120012+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHx94NDkzgxTbjNSYgFUDpgKoP5g60L9kM22Uqb9ALCVg9yDJr2pmNQLP4c-Nk3iE0k4MiNryz7f-PqADFPLjeieE0AlbdTcKAXm8npGPIO5oGEejkDVbTxlBaC59FHTAPkQ5hBR8uviVs/s320/P3120012+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449199806557025762" /></a><br />As we approach Puerto Natales, Chile we pass the town mascot, some sort of prehistoric animal:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSYqwPump9fW2QTJ1mP21zv66lqTGVA5HaDgD761A02s31AWmluLf7xbQuWHDBpTd9elweXsnZQ9xm3oRpIGdWJ1IDcPxOY_B6heWd-ABR8ON7UKCEGgVVdSl11lvmV4at-aXWLr_SNrdd/s1600-h/P3120023+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSYqwPump9fW2QTJ1mP21zv66lqTGVA5HaDgD761A02s31AWmluLf7xbQuWHDBpTd9elweXsnZQ9xm3oRpIGdWJ1IDcPxOY_B6heWd-ABR8ON7UKCEGgVVdSl11lvmV4at-aXWLr_SNrdd/s320/P3120023+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449199904964374770" /></a><br />Helge investigates potential places to stay in Puerty Natales for next year’s trip. We pass along the Magellan Channel through which the gold miners sailed clipper ships on their way west.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg39KcsGGdujCtjH3h9ghvyepmP3x9Q313gFI7N-2Ui7HxluFmkkKdUx1JR23rnjBHkOSkKbB8pYQWIvThVl_kqQhjweEJZZ-kKeQMlmTSyWClv70OrTkw3IxZC6NwbHuuueI0eTGuHvlNk/s1600-h/P3120032+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg39KcsGGdujCtjH3h9ghvyepmP3x9Q313gFI7N-2Ui7HxluFmkkKdUx1JR23rnjBHkOSkKbB8pYQWIvThVl_kqQhjweEJZZ-kKeQMlmTSyWClv70OrTkw3IxZC6NwbHuuueI0eTGuHvlNk/s320/P3120032+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449200009394626754" /></a><br />Here is a vessel from the 1860’s that has been beached for 150 years. . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWBmyvkCGXO9IWvkH5ZXj9haHhAVbZs666918Lwyg71xbrov85_SoXynXqeSZWzuIYg7c40mHsXbokztxAsR_zQAqHydxVhiSqnxnwzECfnkXYeTjk7HlcrXh_bu_SbYPzCbD3rX_-V3v3/s1600-h/P3120033+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWBmyvkCGXO9IWvkH5ZXj9haHhAVbZs666918Lwyg71xbrov85_SoXynXqeSZWzuIYg7c40mHsXbokztxAsR_zQAqHydxVhiSqnxnwzECfnkXYeTjk7HlcrXh_bu_SbYPzCbD3rX_-V3v3/s320/P3120033+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449200151083283538" /></a><br />It is steel-framed and oak clad - I didn’t realize that they used steel frames this long ago.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKjBui6bK4ZMcv4G4mJAD2oDWWykUIoXtXFTjKnfOHT99cwNsFNwzjLsn-9qyOLu_szjooE5ny65T9NHjExq2dJY_GFKt0x0nnE61ViqNXwKc3m5tM7mbI5Bjx9Ox401y-FwRIVryXumL9/s1600-h/P3120037+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKjBui6bK4ZMcv4G4mJAD2oDWWykUIoXtXFTjKnfOHT99cwNsFNwzjLsn-9qyOLu_szjooE5ny65T9NHjExq2dJY_GFKt0x0nnE61ViqNXwKc3m5tM7mbI5Bjx9Ox401y-FwRIVryXumL9/s320/P3120037+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449200291495614626" /></a><br />Below the water line they clad the ships in copper to keep the barnacles away. Here you see a strip of copper that has been on the ship for 150 years – in the industrial centers of Cleveland, a piece of copper sitting out in the open wouldn’t last a week!<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv2biv-dbbuGB8J4Y1NK-4hQF2Pa9l3MwbcHjXUpve2RRICY06ERKKKtOwiyyRbMxd2gDApklNP-qF2J3lWhUwgqODDrn2VoZOo4BohwsKlaK8W6Sw52CPnFZKYS-lAHFC5aYBTuJgKo-w/s1600-h/P3120038+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv2biv-dbbuGB8J4Y1NK-4hQF2Pa9l3MwbcHjXUpve2RRICY06ERKKKtOwiyyRbMxd2gDApklNP-qF2J3lWhUwgqODDrn2VoZOo4BohwsKlaK8W6Sw52CPnFZKYS-lAHFC5aYBTuJgKo-w/s320/P3120038+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449200451006046450" /></a><br />There’s a substantial tide in the Magellan Strait and it’s one of the reasons the mariners favored using it rather than going around the Horn. Here you see kelp hanging from the deck beams ten feet above the beach:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQmTTCSBQTDA83nFI85UZ9s7eX9uA1oQXuTVk_bZzv6orD0OUfH6QWXTJ4XyPov1Tg9V0EiVNpga5xQTp3fiLIN-VLyohQ2LNzm2gB2xSd7pVGcuas95k_pnP_53AntCVhXN4T9-1PiNLS/s1600-h/P3120040+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQmTTCSBQTDA83nFI85UZ9s7eX9uA1oQXuTVk_bZzv6orD0OUfH6QWXTJ4XyPov1Tg9V0EiVNpga5xQTp3fiLIN-VLyohQ2LNzm2gB2xSd7pVGcuas95k_pnP_53AntCVhXN4T9-1PiNLS/s320/P3120040+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449200595089974194" /></a><br />Here’s a later model wreck of a steamship slowly returning to nature – that smoke stack is bound to fall in a high wind:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4fmNFWThVPm88VQHLlawoeO6Bp3hppynES-8HY4b-QyZouR1zuOfljfuvAaEPd44q3Wk9JcsYVBrn1qBXLTLdWnv8K_wDDszOULrmBrJHmUEExldh7LYLc2hMKDIEbrnmjr_N3gyYN1IX/s1600-h/P3120044+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4fmNFWThVPm88VQHLlawoeO6Bp3hppynES-8HY4b-QyZouR1zuOfljfuvAaEPd44q3Wk9JcsYVBrn1qBXLTLdWnv8K_wDDszOULrmBrJHmUEExldh7LYLc2hMKDIEbrnmjr_N3gyYN1IX/s320/P3120044+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449200699661208178" /></a><br />Its boiler is still intact:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZMLEa9901OfURj9j0u4VYkqT_afTWhE8pxD1qn8kX69ASRlZ4wMSddsQhtCS6q-EqxaPxYgieEkDmeL5aCGM9fpQEWU0LNa82ZE_-BX8tusa2dxGeHwuIoZIor9f7bXV-nV0JUb_kBrl_/s1600-h/P3120045+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZMLEa9901OfURj9j0u4VYkqT_afTWhE8pxD1qn8kX69ASRlZ4wMSddsQhtCS6q-EqxaPxYgieEkDmeL5aCGM9fpQEWU0LNa82ZE_-BX8tusa2dxGeHwuIoZIor9f7bXV-nV0JUb_kBrl_/s320/P3120045+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449200821473841074" /></a><br />The propeller and its strut are badly corroded, but the propeller shaft is as shiny as the day it was made; and the bearing you see sticking out of the strut, according to Vince, is probably made out of lignum vitae, a heavy dense wood that sinks in water.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0K_PgSecSXFnhS6ZXVmvuIRSfdmwsbsQdOfhKkc8AQuicghxJhOKjuW3GBhO0BUVTUDKtRPQZvRxr74PzVHaksIBVTDtKttTYIbtvRre_xaORCyvs-YV4LZdWMwXonQb6mepYJYg9VrrX/s1600-h/P3120042+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0K_PgSecSXFnhS6ZXVmvuIRSfdmwsbsQdOfhKkc8AQuicghxJhOKjuW3GBhO0BUVTUDKtRPQZvRxr74PzVHaksIBVTDtKttTYIbtvRre_xaORCyvs-YV4LZdWMwXonQb6mepYJYg9VrrX/s320/P3120042+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449200939990426994" /></a><br />The western end of the Magellan Channel is where ships go to die – ships that would be considered seaworthy under normal conditions but cannot withstand the winds through the strait. There are apparently hundreds of boats that line the bottom and sides of the channel, stripped of anything of value and leaving just the skeletons. <br /><br />We take a ferry boat in the rain across the Magellan Strait, which takes only 15 minutes:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7gNLG09LUStbrQhjER_ZlsSWnZlJHNL2qgX97J2IMouQLFY-Vmg4_iipUKv2JfE1eSdqPMZ-Sy3pf-g4xX5x9AhAQ_CCq0_MiP9x5oQaxolIbejYWGW0lExyWsCa0YRUB5-9Xmpu__KT6/s1600-h/P3120059+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7gNLG09LUStbrQhjER_ZlsSWnZlJHNL2qgX97J2IMouQLFY-Vmg4_iipUKv2JfE1eSdqPMZ-Sy3pf-g4xX5x9AhAQ_CCq0_MiP9x5oQaxolIbejYWGW0lExyWsCa0YRUB5-9Xmpu__KT6/s320/P3120059+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449201078365129730" /></a><br />This will be a 400 km day (nearly entirely in the rain) and I ran out of gas just before reaching our destination – about five miles out. The range of the 6 gallon tank on my bike is between 200-250 miles, largely dependent on speed. Fortunately, I have the extra 1 gallon tank on the back of my panniers – so even in the rain it’s not that inconvenient.<br /><br />At the lodge in Cerro Sombrero, Chile we run into two more drenched motorcycle groups; one that we have run into from time to time heading south and the other heading north out of Ushuaia. Many of the guys coming from the south didn’t have rain gear and were cold and wet. Both of these groups had chase cars and a motorcycle mechanic traveling with them. We are delighted to be inside and have an excellent dinner while the other groups admire Helge’s fantastic photographs. It rains the entire night.<br /><br /><strong><em>March 13 </em></strong><br />The wind howled all night, blowing off my bike cover. Fortunately one of the ropes got tangled up on the bike so I didn’t lose the cover (like Roger lost his) – but with a leather seat covering urethane foam – I will have a wet fanny for the day.<br /><br />The road surface is dirt covered in gravel with pooled water in each of the chuck holes until we reach the Argentina border. We then follow a paved road through “big sky” country along grasslands with a lot of sheep and llama look-alikes.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaT1pNT8HMtQhbIKms2OGdhEfzXaw5YlldeAacqoQeD4bRM2InO7FHANcHxCK9l1M8Jt_YnkZtlSWrNVJAUGNwWeyJetI0ahN_M5b8YTqfVM1joNNLgX34CB4NjMVDa45kWRxs2Fhg7L3r/s1600-h/P3130076+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaT1pNT8HMtQhbIKms2OGdhEfzXaw5YlldeAacqoQeD4bRM2InO7FHANcHxCK9l1M8Jt_YnkZtlSWrNVJAUGNwWeyJetI0ahN_M5b8YTqfVM1joNNLgX34CB4NjMVDa45kWRxs2Fhg7L3r/s320/P3130076+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449201332160936594" /></a><br />The border crossing is quick and uneventful – we arrive right behind a busload of tourists, but since we have our own vehicles (which need to be imported) we are pushed to the head of the line.<br /><br />We drive along the Atlantic coast (latitude between 52-53S). At the border there are signs that remind us all that the Falkland Islands belong to Argentina. As we approach Rio Grande, from which the Falkland Island invasion originated, we see signs of military activity. The highway on which we are traveling was used as a military airstrip during the Falkland War – we pass a large radar antenna and had previously seen a large submarine communication system.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGzeHBC9fs0aX-nUcrgVJFw7BjS4rVUbG8ipfciIJQKyc2W6JADLlA09LMHDwAd5qbPLZjYPmsyNoUw7Wh7zUcGQmBFoNV56nGUvXHhR89Yj9dsfiI8dyhDu5jnnbDZm8OQ6FHdMUs9jvm/s1600-h/P3130091+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGzeHBC9fs0aX-nUcrgVJFw7BjS4rVUbG8ipfciIJQKyc2W6JADLlA09LMHDwAd5qbPLZjYPmsyNoUw7Wh7zUcGQmBFoNV56nGUvXHhR89Yj9dsfiI8dyhDu5jnnbDZm8OQ6FHdMUs9jvm/s320/P3130091+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449201436793125794" /></a><br />The Argentineans are serious about wanting the Islands back and have these sentiments posted on signs everywhere. It’s hard to understand either side of this argument – the Argentines say that the British rotate citizens through and that there are no citizens there that have been resident for any period of time (most of them under 1 year). But the people we run into who have visited the Falklands contradict this claim and state that there are British families that have been there for several generations. The islands are nearly 800 miles away from South America and it appears that neither side is willing to put forth their argument for ownership.<br /><br />As we pass through Rio Grande we see not only a military but also a strong oil and gas presence. It does not appear to be a very pleasant place to live – the wind is cold and howling even in the summer and rains very frequently. <br /><br />We continue south along the Atlantic before heading inland. It is largely pastureland with gnarly weather-beaten trees and moss hanging from the branches swept sideways by the wind:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYn7VqwIzywt0xdDJimL50QRKMRsH4B82WX6cb1ORaZGvp6JNqHYCZiVMpNo2FdIFRLiOJhZV1plkSAE9m3ut-d5PUA6mlIIttMZfLrYdiw81gLrlxNMgrgBcWsNa-PURmLGzxWpM4rmef/s1600-h/P3130102+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYn7VqwIzywt0xdDJimL50QRKMRsH4B82WX6cb1ORaZGvp6JNqHYCZiVMpNo2FdIFRLiOJhZV1plkSAE9m3ut-d5PUA6mlIIttMZfLrYdiw81gLrlxNMgrgBcWsNa-PURmLGzxWpM4rmef/s320/P3130102+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449201552725747122" /></a><br />If it weren’t cold, wet and desolate – this could be some nice country. Half way between Rio Grande and Ushuaia, we stop in a very busy bakery and meet the 20 year old young man operating this machine:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBr_R5_bSkdMblr8Nvx1rhRNffVgaLWGgc_1u8x485qq2VXH9Qut9QN7Y5D6yHO1QrAI_kK4f4P_dHcESoxM4Vj4sTV6mP1Dh3fzeILZRJsZkqA6S7qnWrhDGosPcCenfdYHdS6iogJs4P/s1600-h/P3130106+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBr_R5_bSkdMblr8Nvx1rhRNffVgaLWGgc_1u8x485qq2VXH9Qut9QN7Y5D6yHO1QrAI_kK4f4P_dHcESoxM4Vj4sTV6mP1Dh3fzeILZRJsZkqA6S7qnWrhDGosPcCenfdYHdS6iogJs4P/s320/P3130106+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449201707350707314" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglEqkw88Gb8FOSQJWAlQHKfwQBKN4EpQt5PMPXmd4LMMzW_zwnGuPKJ96xcP6RI27ZfqKai6okKQuvpJLUQs1KQpxtD_OYkRMseh570-AIU_z4TWlGK-RqetLuID6ZppBodQahstAEU4wZ/s1600-h/P3130108+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglEqkw88Gb8FOSQJWAlQHKfwQBKN4EpQt5PMPXmd4LMMzW_zwnGuPKJ96xcP6RI27ZfqKai6okKQuvpJLUQs1KQpxtD_OYkRMseh570-AIU_z4TWlGK-RqetLuID6ZppBodQahstAEU4wZ/s320/P3130108+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449201653138327826" /></a><br />His name is Andrew and he arrived in town 3 weeks ago having ridden his bike the entire way from St. Paul, Minnesota. The owner of the bakery was sympathetic to bike riders and not only offered him a place to stay but a minimum wage job as well. He arrived with the intention of being a shepherd – but he will now learn the trade of a baker, which will have more value for a young man on his walkabout than watching sheep and llama. We had a long talk with him and Helge shared some of his 10 year experience on the road.<br /><br />After talking with Andrew, I reflected on a personality type such as Andrews – stepping out of the norm requires enormous energy and perseverance. This sort of energy and project orientation will make him an excellent employee for someone. He first wants to get a handle on his interests and not waste his parents’ money on college until he determines a path. He has scratched off shepherd from his list and will undoubtedly scratch off baker – it would be interesting to follow him and find out what path he finally chooses. <br /><br />As we approach Ushuaia and the southern tip of Argentina we are delighted to see the beautiful mountains and breathtaking vistas:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgztWbk7d8YgMVNQjnqvQl9RE5jRxvp-WGtic3lNl-MCda_g5NvBTgma-Ixid2or8ecaMekmeLaIM2zp5yOteheelqT-vMejcdd1MhwJSW-GBp0uh_yLqLXGRBwqVE68B9zOcFG7gy7yoaD/s1600-h/P3130123+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgztWbk7d8YgMVNQjnqvQl9RE5jRxvp-WGtic3lNl-MCda_g5NvBTgma-Ixid2or8ecaMekmeLaIM2zp5yOteheelqT-vMejcdd1MhwJSW-GBp0uh_yLqLXGRBwqVE68B9zOcFG7gy7yoaD/s320/P3130123+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449201830256743554" /></a><br />The road is a bit scary – but at least there is a guardrail:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1j2P3Os7Mfnt4Le_aRhsIpTiTqt2JR-KVp-AqSx_9eCfG3FAo-brbPi9n2g97wy1Kej962T1rdZJm7DgwEOasjeLx53_SiMCw0LLdBlh3VjgOMVGIf9MvwUBvXID9EC0jYUC1UmNveglb/s1600-h/P3130127+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1j2P3Os7Mfnt4Le_aRhsIpTiTqt2JR-KVp-AqSx_9eCfG3FAo-brbPi9n2g97wy1Kej962T1rdZJm7DgwEOasjeLx53_SiMCw0LLdBlh3VjgOMVGIf9MvwUBvXID9EC0jYUC1UmNveglb/s320/P3130127+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449201952450560690" /></a><br />Towards the top of one of the passes, rain turns to snow – we have knobby tires and approach the corners with great care.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9XhUU9_KJVnx8BRrOyengYCxozNzeP26vVfgGYK32IfwviWz-X4vP8PiZ306fRqKBY2kYVNtqwXxNKQqQ-Mkjc4l3iNlsyqMp0Ub7T96MeTuRGW0yar7qnQi2OPcubiXDeZrAz4wx0763/s1600-h/P3130130+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9XhUU9_KJVnx8BRrOyengYCxozNzeP26vVfgGYK32IfwviWz-X4vP8PiZ306fRqKBY2kYVNtqwXxNKQqQ-Mkjc4l3iNlsyqMp0Ub7T96MeTuRGW0yar7qnQi2OPcubiXDeZrAz4wx0763/s320/P3130130+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449202054533517042" /></a><br />The snow lasts only a short period of time, and finally, while it is still raining, we arrive in Ushuaia – dubbed “the end of the world”!<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9sNBHxKOLqL-cp-WpZjl2t7-LVDN1VFQuQ7TvY2cCCetmU-xTaDjMmx1-WClyt3Ptq9cgmBR5XU49bWn0p_2lslc25SslCSK2PXyFPyQtQZHQsJ3Arxs4qX4HoFRWZ5NcA4ch1NoD09Ub/s1600-h/P3130139+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9sNBHxKOLqL-cp-WpZjl2t7-LVDN1VFQuQ7TvY2cCCetmU-xTaDjMmx1-WClyt3Ptq9cgmBR5XU49bWn0p_2lslc25SslCSK2PXyFPyQtQZHQsJ3Arxs4qX4HoFRWZ5NcA4ch1NoD09Ub/s320/P3130139+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449202230352741474" /></a><br />Ushuaia is declared the most southern city in the world – this fact is based on a population over 2,000 (otherwise Port Williams, Chile is further south).<br /><br />The sign also informs that Ushuaia began as a penal colony – just as Australia. Ushuaia is the destination from which we will ship our bikes. We will spend our remaining 3 days packaging our bikes for shipment and taking day trips.<br /><br />We have gone through 13 countries, crossed 20 borders and travelled over 13,000 miles for nearly 2.5 months. We have had a spectacular time – but we are all anxious to get home.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-47960104720173568982010-03-13T11:24:00.000-08:002010-03-13T11:55:44.373-08:00Day 65-67 – March 9-11<strong><em>El Calafate, Argentina to Torres del Paine, Chile</em></strong><br />We left our nice hotel in El Calafate on Lake Argentino in the early morning. I had my warm gloves in the panniers and didn’t close them securely enough. While riding around town, my gloves blew out – so now I’m riding with no warm gloves. The sky is beautiful, but the warning “red skies in the morning, sailors take warning” comes to mind. I believe some of the red sky may actually have been caused by a fire we saw in the hills last night—it is still burning this morning. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY77I8P1jXbU6flQHH2YkBLKl3itsZyf6AuDoRC8oWC0M4pxi9tZGCxIHpHmZ6xOkdtxCeoS2oLQVxGNiDtNCdD4tho8JpKsay6NYu1VyqyzEqJJLPMBs8TfEkD5NOgAb2ksUXnGTQMblN/s1600-h/P3090420.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY77I8P1jXbU6flQHH2YkBLKl3itsZyf6AuDoRC8oWC0M4pxi9tZGCxIHpHmZ6xOkdtxCeoS2oLQVxGNiDtNCdD4tho8JpKsay6NYu1VyqyzEqJJLPMBs8TfEkD5NOgAb2ksUXnGTQMblN/s320/P3090420.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448202496419320050" /></a><br />We got a bit of paved road for a moment, but were quickly back on dirt and gravel roads, in the great expanses where “you can watch your dog run away for 3 days.”<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSV2LmxvhLyS2krz-1HatqevALONuN85qQQsMA6xGb61hEX2mvFSiPrpIgSj131haoGfs86lOBwhKes1UdScv7Ur7PUDl6gBBFLc4SjyE6JnOzXC7Eghfe4ZqcqPitY5dFG0Krf4tKmXff/s1600-h/P3090432.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSV2LmxvhLyS2krz-1HatqevALONuN85qQQsMA6xGb61hEX2mvFSiPrpIgSj131haoGfs86lOBwhKes1UdScv7Ur7PUDl6gBBFLc4SjyE6JnOzXC7Eghfe4ZqcqPitY5dFG0Krf4tKmXff/s320/P3090432.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448202678284530162" /></a><br />Again we had to thread the needle of a one-foot-wide path in order to avoid skidding on the gravel.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuIypNbUDrBmodE51kyoaB7Aw9BHjQGuiChicptB8zQVKfgVN7IssEaToOrwMWl79PnYU33KYh946xvcF_vjdNBTEX9LRCo5C8aaaTdSnDC8alhLA29d2pyD2zmoRnd5BCmXIkWGmTGI2f/s1600-h/P3090427.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuIypNbUDrBmodE51kyoaB7Aw9BHjQGuiChicptB8zQVKfgVN7IssEaToOrwMWl79PnYU33KYh946xvcF_vjdNBTEX9LRCo5C8aaaTdSnDC8alhLA29d2pyD2zmoRnd5BCmXIkWGmTGI2f/s320/P3090427.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448202857943404242" /></a><br /><br />With my aching shoulder and the pulled muscle in my back talking loudly to me, I am much more able to concentrate on the road and I take fewer pictures while riding (this comment for the benefit of Betty Moore, my mother who may be up in the sky somewhere reading this). <br /><br />We crossed out of Argentina and back into Chile at a small checkpoint where only one or two other people were waiting to be processed. The officials on both sides were courteous and efficient.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG6bxuzpxWu3jeUbj0a6tD_jUVEfHgJTUIAyLK3DTUML3JuwMbazP7WM-Iec_EeANacTH7tJP5FG8fCDlJUhBeOQJ0CrCxyHcxkffvvTypumcJhsEel-vd_8fO5kdvMPmiRgo6C5DvBVQK/s1600-h/P3090433.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG6bxuzpxWu3jeUbj0a6tD_jUVEfHgJTUIAyLK3DTUML3JuwMbazP7WM-Iec_EeANacTH7tJP5FG8fCDlJUhBeOQJ0CrCxyHcxkffvvTypumcJhsEel-vd_8fO5kdvMPmiRgo6C5DvBVQK/s320/P3090433.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448203050176143906" /></a><br />As we approached Torres del Paine Park, the views were breathtaking:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdshzhIJzdNkZgYtHSvecdgouxJ9Yu6n7R9MjMJqgwYJ16mIPcXeXLI9vReVpY2NkBt42juar6Z6ttcCqkpNClVd0ffq_EoSUWo1d3b27I63bm4HkjcH0j1jvbTMaqekDC92uhlQ-MFjHt/s1600-h/P3090437.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdshzhIJzdNkZgYtHSvecdgouxJ9Yu6n7R9MjMJqgwYJ16mIPcXeXLI9vReVpY2NkBt42juar6Z6ttcCqkpNClVd0ffq_EoSUWo1d3b27I63bm4HkjcH0j1jvbTMaqekDC92uhlQ-MFjHt/s320/P3090437.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448203290805770962" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPiqwi7XPDyQK12Pm7LYLfJMG8DKESPNx56PpIjU3_ZZvU59W9-57sjRNguOLDiS5DEankmxyPuZLQ0CemkB4XkF4MxNQPw5xLosNte3q-EuvA4xeDENxpHEQ8wcBdZvhF8fqIlbTrfgL/s1600-h/P3090438.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPiqwi7XPDyQK12Pm7LYLfJMG8DKESPNx56PpIjU3_ZZvU59W9-57sjRNguOLDiS5DEankmxyPuZLQ0CemkB4XkF4MxNQPw5xLosNte3q-EuvA4xeDENxpHEQ8wcBdZvhF8fqIlbTrfgL/s320/P3090438.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448203220325276722" /></a><br />My bike is running like a top: light, lively and powerful – totally cured of its reputed illnesses. The incurred damage has been largely remedied by the four staples of motorcycle repair: bailing wire, duct tape, epoxy and Loctite.<br /><br />I split off from the others before entering the park – the views were extraordinary. One noticeable difference upon entering the park is the increase in the number of guanacos. It would seem that there is an overabundance of them in the park – like the deer in Cleveland’s Metroparks – and like the Metropark deer, they are not shy:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR3wWIVuK02UM3spY9OvIfRccbO4DiDKaRuEKeCFV_5kxTYnAJQuLbr6EgCys4MBfNsEuxTZsUgdIhx1aHl4GU9bI-blzb3Juoj0E8AZEOAf3rFioGiezJCRNIxvkatwzhgoHnTx-RYaxT/s1600-h/P3090446.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR3wWIVuK02UM3spY9OvIfRccbO4DiDKaRuEKeCFV_5kxTYnAJQuLbr6EgCys4MBfNsEuxTZsUgdIhx1aHl4GU9bI-blzb3Juoj0E8AZEOAf3rFioGiezJCRNIxvkatwzhgoHnTx-RYaxT/s320/P3090446.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448203545021442466" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyR_N8ZFEE7OSc6MWPhA9ExPxOvjs3doREg-lcV16zNjfjS8yKIk8cMrtwokBZBZATUONh-UJrhcGFifxFH8HyeK82GoMxOKU2JCWOnBPvsPb1wmK2dkHRcEFFh3hyphenhypheni-q24pTbnno7YjFC/s1600-h/P3090454.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyR_N8ZFEE7OSc6MWPhA9ExPxOvjs3doREg-lcV16zNjfjS8yKIk8cMrtwokBZBZATUONh-UJrhcGFifxFH8HyeK82GoMxOKU2JCWOnBPvsPb1wmK2dkHRcEFFh3hyphenhypheni-q24pTbnno7YjFC/s320/P3090454.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448203474879940738" /></a><br />It’s interesting that 40% of their young are eaten by pumas, a South American mountain lion similar to the cougars in Arizona (not related to the cougars that hang out in bars in North America).<br /><br />Torres del Paine is majestic and amazing – it’s a granite structure created 12 million years ago when lava pushed through a thick layer of sedimentary rock that covered this part of South America. It cooled slowly and under great pressure, creating a giant mass within the sedimentary rock layer. The glaciers then ground away the sedimentary rock, leaving only the granite towers or spires you see here:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuwNwUvdeBE-33rz8uvd5B6cPyXOSYLZgeWU_-Fy9brUwmHhoQNNGi0xLG38jxy1GbPGQvoCq7daqSajGGQyz2GL9TCRRsSqq5rwufScN1Go0ZsXZz46hrvZSvMMLvrN69mj8GZLdyuVCT/s1600-h/P3090469.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuwNwUvdeBE-33rz8uvd5B6cPyXOSYLZgeWU_-Fy9brUwmHhoQNNGi0xLG38jxy1GbPGQvoCq7daqSajGGQyz2GL9TCRRsSqq5rwufScN1Go0ZsXZz46hrvZSvMMLvrN69mj8GZLdyuVCT/s320/P3090469.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448203720111861122" /></a><br />Later I met up with Roger and Vincent, and we hiked up to a falls running through a narrow gulley, which empties into a turquoise/emerald green lake. Riding in leathers is great, but they are way too hot for hiking:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMWOYmDRaRcvreWzb1rkx5RlzsN0FzN2o8EAAqRfzVtZnwAmBcTfMa3FA_6iVJ3zZV4grhEwf8FAUPzyRmrvWT3gcTKiuJBfODRKxNM-C1RWTsqQFtUKKx4AWZoOYKIgQy43wC7bXPg9l7/s1600-h/P3090471.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMWOYmDRaRcvreWzb1rkx5RlzsN0FzN2o8EAAqRfzVtZnwAmBcTfMa3FA_6iVJ3zZV4grhEwf8FAUPzyRmrvWT3gcTKiuJBfODRKxNM-C1RWTsqQFtUKKx4AWZoOYKIgQy43wC7bXPg9l7/s320/P3090471.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448203870078747282" /></a><br />Although the sky looked foreboding, we ducked bad weather the entire day.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidcw7vtyxPJTIuNgVG1McVcoz-Pv4tVm-kiEcpGfoZhUUy7ouP_1xgyCdDO1nphRV2wyFcQKJcQiawE0hZppFl4_p3l0XxIzVLU5KVNwW-WZpJXrAo7_6VS2cK_nI-aGUZDB3e_7roa9Xz/s1600-h/P3090473.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidcw7vtyxPJTIuNgVG1McVcoz-Pv4tVm-kiEcpGfoZhUUy7ouP_1xgyCdDO1nphRV2wyFcQKJcQiawE0hZppFl4_p3l0XxIzVLU5KVNwW-WZpJXrAo7_6VS2cK_nI-aGUZDB3e_7roa9Xz/s320/P3090473.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448204026698135810" /></a><br />We again ran into Anibal Vickacka’s tour (“Animal” for short). He found the gloves that had blown from my pannier several days ago. He assumed they were mine and returned them to me - Eureka! (Am I the only absent-minded rider that forgets to lock his panniers?) Here’s Animal’s group hanging out for a photo session:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHrhFAakFdJXYoRL_mLCX209oKvMDli77l-dbnBR2Yir3MsPnAvohNnMhsZsVfE3WYKQMHkwBNtfegtTbGb8dSeQTYU5a-TPjcLo74XRw_LQFisosvypifJnWnUI5b8r2YgAU1q929DGtA/s1600-h/P3090475.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHrhFAakFdJXYoRL_mLCX209oKvMDli77l-dbnBR2Yir3MsPnAvohNnMhsZsVfE3WYKQMHkwBNtfegtTbGb8dSeQTYU5a-TPjcLo74XRw_LQFisosvypifJnWnUI5b8r2YgAU1q929DGtA/s320/P3090475.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448204226758451938" /></a><br />We found a snappy but pricey resort just outside the park with a beautiful view of the spires: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuulfGMnXepZHYczACiBJokQbf1KVFc06gTpfvOGcOXrl2UjIwldtFb1RRLgyd1anOti_nsoBtMKt54pF5plJLCTLh0RSKr_dlRivpP_dJ7EofeuFB187TZH47CqU1IXHuA5UGcoZsffg7/s1600-h/P3100479.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuulfGMnXepZHYczACiBJokQbf1KVFc06gTpfvOGcOXrl2UjIwldtFb1RRLgyd1anOti_nsoBtMKt54pF5plJLCTLh0RSKr_dlRivpP_dJ7EofeuFB187TZH47CqU1IXHuA5UGcoZsffg7/s320/P3100479.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448204419936781986" /></a><br />I took a nap after checking in and left my first floor window open to cool off. I woke up, slipped out of bed, and felt fur against my bare ankle – I practically leapt out of my skin with fright and surprise. It turned out to be a big housecat that had jumped through my window to escape a red fox lurking outside. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCkediUzjuzgT5OvZaM3z8VUUqms3pNLe8XZpTEmkooQ4CKpmXFCvIBYx_fnzc-AEgjOrgpDi_SxgBxl78saEcJILsAemiQ4kxbKEqegLugAKqO7G-GOzCO6RegSFeNSPCnrvOwgWWAdRl/s1600-h/2W3Y6415_2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCkediUzjuzgT5OvZaM3z8VUUqms3pNLe8XZpTEmkooQ4CKpmXFCvIBYx_fnzc-AEgjOrgpDi_SxgBxl78saEcJILsAemiQ4kxbKEqegLugAKqO7G-GOzCO6RegSFeNSPCnrvOwgWWAdRl/s320/2W3Y6415_2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448204793921933362" /></a>(photo by Vince Cummings)<br />The cat refused to leave the way it had entered, so I let it into the hotel and God knows what he got into (I’m just glad it wasn’t one of those pumas which like to feast on guanacos).<br /><br /><strong><em>March 10</em></strong><br />Vince and I went horseback riding. The saddle was wide like a western saddle, but without the horn (and you’ll note that there’s much more padding for the horse than for the rider):<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdDGGyuJvIdi750azXiNM9Cl7pyLaiyJKyW1pIIIigdPWWLCgtdUOscMRulZXYQ9_cCiIVl88M4BpUFa9JQjKsAT1gvR23jtW2c4LvToMPk105z4q0NqDrjpbqGDFfU-oWfavwr8e0o3IU/s1600-h/P3100482.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdDGGyuJvIdi750azXiNM9Cl7pyLaiyJKyW1pIIIigdPWWLCgtdUOscMRulZXYQ9_cCiIVl88M4BpUFa9JQjKsAT1gvR23jtW2c4LvToMPk105z4q0NqDrjpbqGDFfU-oWfavwr8e0o3IU/s320/P3100482.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448205171689357330" /></a><br />We had a great guide, Armond, who didn’t speak English, so we were therefore spared his lecture on the do’s and don’t’s of riding.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-5c9sNpUMVDZ0E8yazM0K2fxNWDoGbxViOO79nIXrLOXfVeXZ671Wl8QkLUNmVcIh_rNP1CmXZ1-MYHmghcG76x_HV55aDu5lT0zTfjLhkMxudoKq_qYTwh1uUsusoYbR_JtQZsKaHf4g/s1600-h/2W3Y6471.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-5c9sNpUMVDZ0E8yazM0K2fxNWDoGbxViOO79nIXrLOXfVeXZ671Wl8QkLUNmVcIh_rNP1CmXZ1-MYHmghcG76x_HV55aDu5lT0zTfjLhkMxudoKq_qYTwh1uUsusoYbR_JtQZsKaHf4g/s320/2W3Y6471.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448205352639938482" /></a>(photo by Vince Cummings)<br /><br />We were accompanied by three beautiful little dogs that enthusiastically dashed alongside us:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNb415dTX_R1DhEWsThDbO6B9RY8wV0PJKDgac9Hk5K0IKAMb1WpBOM5mHuxsPryNaRxFFXSdQBS8LU8spHktvdf-lYufC2rCSRJps8KOeCmd4Wo1FkKqKqAYgkZMgcCet2r5vXDIOEUGk/s1600-h/P3100508.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNb415dTX_R1DhEWsThDbO6B9RY8wV0PJKDgac9Hk5K0IKAMb1WpBOM5mHuxsPryNaRxFFXSdQBS8LU8spHktvdf-lYufC2rCSRJps8KOeCmd4Wo1FkKqKqAYgkZMgcCet2r5vXDIOEUGk/s320/P3100508.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448205599772837506" /></a><br />I petted this one before we began and she licked my hand – I later saw her not only rolling in cow pies but doing a bit of recycling as well. I made a mental note to not only wash my hands but also the inside of my gloves.<br /><br />The horses seemed to know the consequences of not doing what they were told:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFiUfuTeI418OZrbl2pKe73T-qImEr013o6KMd_cUOM0ji8X8CHj9fAYxuYNdOuxjgiFlC1Vyzcb5BYcaYwzNBkbnmsc_nevaYfKNJCrkQZtCIyUBF3Ry_B9nwXWYjlekWZL-oXR5F7nqZ/s1600-h/P3100505.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFiUfuTeI418OZrbl2pKe73T-qImEr013o6KMd_cUOM0ji8X8CHj9fAYxuYNdOuxjgiFlC1Vyzcb5BYcaYwzNBkbnmsc_nevaYfKNJCrkQZtCIyUBF3Ry_B9nwXWYjlekWZL-oXR5F7nqZ/s320/P3100505.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448205785299096818" /></a>No need to hide the evidence.<br /><br />Vincent was kind enough not to bring the telephoto lens that extends two feet – but as you can see, he is ready for lassoing steers:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4HRqFK4_xn6RBhmLvi7nRfnTHZkb8Xp4xZ5Q3gHAkkRMMQW9V0L2xab_Itdoo6L5v-es1mcS18Ei8-qUl1NdEaoZDIzlgWdUNaiTh8d_mhgcZ5FKAAno93Fx4kf5KSCaNpDwh48lGjVZ_/s1600-h/P3100487.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4HRqFK4_xn6RBhmLvi7nRfnTHZkb8Xp4xZ5Q3gHAkkRMMQW9V0L2xab_Itdoo6L5v-es1mcS18Ei8-qUl1NdEaoZDIzlgWdUNaiTh8d_mhgcZ5FKAAno93Fx4kf5KSCaNpDwh48lGjVZ_/s320/P3100487.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448205993066604690" /></a><br />We had a wonderful walk along the emerald-colored lake:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiklGHHrkfOxscABcKzJ5PN88YifmEItKiPjtqBOl15Dm5DQbQQ5iA1cfnRQbY1Ia3JMWIkMgU7OzLgsKc3ewrpYgEoAoQwZL2UciZS9n80HvzpHawMFj3XpOg6tJHsAYAhBL4_NVOeCBgN/s1600-h/P3100493.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiklGHHrkfOxscABcKzJ5PN88YifmEItKiPjtqBOl15Dm5DQbQQ5iA1cfnRQbY1Ia3JMWIkMgU7OzLgsKc3ewrpYgEoAoQwZL2UciZS9n80HvzpHawMFj3XpOg6tJHsAYAhBL4_NVOeCBgN/s320/P3100493.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448206176311976482" /></a><br />. . .with its amazing scenery:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkHRSvOXQa8t5CVg45N5hlmtzU_P3THizxvtzEMePoszeondeFIV7neIuGK66Wbq1PGviNunqQ9DYNFeDJ6S2Jv14bVWth15QYK6SUCtrlFNrXfN1bMucEsviaN4n6GIp6VpovrLW8guAB/s1600-h/P3100495.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkHRSvOXQa8t5CVg45N5hlmtzU_P3THizxvtzEMePoszeondeFIV7neIuGK66Wbq1PGviNunqQ9DYNFeDJ6S2Jv14bVWth15QYK6SUCtrlFNrXfN1bMucEsviaN4n6GIp6VpovrLW8guAB/s320/P3100495.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448206324147748834" /></a><br />We passed through a gnarly woods:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZlYyR_hwnMAi4ok8Yu9l7oKE9TXtCe9YjyUw71RCHom5hUaDuCQ8FCK_ioBVYjWMHmzK13O-LpCEprYTEV3rdiQI5uSHwXSWs2ElrpU30GXFdPZtYmdKnk36r5IejkkBEdOI8zslYc32R/s1600-h/P3100500.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZlYyR_hwnMAi4ok8Yu9l7oKE9TXtCe9YjyUw71RCHom5hUaDuCQ8FCK_ioBVYjWMHmzK13O-LpCEprYTEV3rdiQI5uSHwXSWs2ElrpU30GXFdPZtYmdKnk36r5IejkkBEdOI8zslYc32R/s320/P3100500.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448206457601462994" /></a><br />Both of us held up well:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR5Sm9yWFlzHmjn__oW-lwwLS3PRJ3lYesg6ihMsJqkW_JVI_SRA-W3L2DyJM-WystJLC_t8GveiVCY3mVsuIjREx6VvOInGUV3oD6ViBgkhEkAPqdt3Z2o6IDL6VTClmFvf6Kpwp8eBk1/s1600-h/P3100504.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR5Sm9yWFlzHmjn__oW-lwwLS3PRJ3lYesg6ihMsJqkW_JVI_SRA-W3L2DyJM-WystJLC_t8GveiVCY3mVsuIjREx6VvOInGUV3oD6ViBgkhEkAPqdt3Z2o6IDL6VTClmFvf6Kpwp8eBk1/s320/P3100504.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448206748997357234" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg45NiC1bJWyhidHMVykBZJ6y5Ze4uCQ0TQSFgz5Yith109U2WE1IBxWpoc2EYCE0IeaZhR-_fjw4n7TurS58QWbhYW8oorqImCVRRyCvRFic_L1zvxUKHyxppWbMtv-Yz72rUi1dr4fMql/s1600-h/2W3Y6438_2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg45NiC1bJWyhidHMVykBZJ6y5Ze4uCQ0TQSFgz5Yith109U2WE1IBxWpoc2EYCE0IeaZhR-_fjw4n7TurS58QWbhYW8oorqImCVRRyCvRFic_L1zvxUKHyxppWbMtv-Yz72rUi1dr4fMql/s320/2W3Y6438_2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448206639954459650" /></a>(photo by Vince Cummings)<br />Later in the day, Vincent went riding in the meadows outside of the park and saw this extraordinary salmon – 2.5 feet long. It is actually a Canadian species, imported by Chile, which escaped from a fish farm and has now taken up residence in the glacial lakes that empty into the ocean:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV4S046MJsyhPfCiX4Vff8wjjF_jN7-G9A2eFcIquyz48T-kLRL8edhTthFLVxpyiaGf-2jnyaouuZ3sE6ppIgFZzdV-g-sJwKQSzwMIjftkakj0MYJx7YygPrQof-ABDp-fPQ91GF98Qu/s1600-h/P1010435.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 230px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV4S046MJsyhPfCiX4Vff8wjjF_jN7-G9A2eFcIquyz48T-kLRL8edhTthFLVxpyiaGf-2jnyaouuZ3sE6ppIgFZzdV-g-sJwKQSzwMIjftkakj0MYJx7YygPrQof-ABDp-fPQ91GF98Qu/s320/P1010435.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448207071408062738" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3aDe9kfXrpQs-UrvDlVq8TDa40IjNABgS1AEZkZMbjLo0FpdFrv3y-l6b_5RJveMug-nr47ykPBVGVrpu3YYNAOxnxv-8nucdhTkhubPw2c4xT2tqpDqatRrvNQ7F66eMJN0a2VE8G3tB/s1600-h/P1010444.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3aDe9kfXrpQs-UrvDlVq8TDa40IjNABgS1AEZkZMbjLo0FpdFrv3y-l6b_5RJveMug-nr47ykPBVGVrpu3YYNAOxnxv-8nucdhTkhubPw2c4xT2tqpDqatRrvNQ7F66eMJN0a2VE8G3tB/s320/P1010444.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448206997042020866" /></a>(photos by Vince Cummings)<br /><br />Roger and Helge left this morning at 8:00 a.m. and did not return until 8:00 p.m. – they had a terrific trip:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_9cJU36qDoLmQMSIc9ox7aGToPyAHkHkDmgIFrttnjjaLVzTT_-Zi3KCyJa4tK1UU2KzCnjrxpElEYkeHkXI4jh27YlqQuQ8HaqPbM2Wk_VNqwes8N26YVuoQHVhO5gK4PlHJWJ_kH4c/s1600-h/CQ8C4267.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_9cJU36qDoLmQMSIc9ox7aGToPyAHkHkDmgIFrttnjjaLVzTT_-Zi3KCyJa4tK1UU2KzCnjrxpElEYkeHkXI4jh27YlqQuQ8HaqPbM2Wk_VNqwes8N26YVuoQHVhO5gK4PlHJWJ_kH4c/s320/CQ8C4267.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448207272506151362" /></a>(photo by Helge Pedersen)<br /><br />We plan to remain here for another 2 nights.<br /><br /><strong><em>March 11</em></strong><br />We got a late start after an unhealthy breakfast and drove up to a scenic vista for a photo shoot.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG12EqiThZwJMEQTG0dEOv8fx7UshKYJk9wGRkAfYJo2IyzHOwz6kuNC2iBWNW8ivIEjPTdjNxBuc7FsKFpkfZTh0oRJucA0GH5GylZMLxmXUfnc6IHF9dHGWPulnp8S3JuAsMGC3RuoJx/s1600-h/P3110528.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG12EqiThZwJMEQTG0dEOv8fx7UshKYJk9wGRkAfYJo2IyzHOwz6kuNC2iBWNW8ivIEjPTdjNxBuc7FsKFpkfZTh0oRJucA0GH5GylZMLxmXUfnc6IHF9dHGWPulnp8S3JuAsMGC3RuoJx/s320/P3110528.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448207529685451154" /></a><br />The wind was howling – above 40 mph. Vincent was not intoxicated here, but just having trouble standing up:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsjojKNv5IGocntCUeXXAyNkS-vBDjl2CrA6hAgsXIDIkpPX_YCRWQmTusmB7JWEcQGgpmRtQH5PF9lEtPOfw5upMSpCpw_XaqqRozyDybDr7AZuGgoFHvrRnLbPaneUsi6FjL5an5HChx/s1600-h/P3110525.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsjojKNv5IGocntCUeXXAyNkS-vBDjl2CrA6hAgsXIDIkpPX_YCRWQmTusmB7JWEcQGgpmRtQH5PF9lEtPOfw5upMSpCpw_XaqqRozyDybDr7AZuGgoFHvrRnLbPaneUsi6FjL5an5HChx/s320/P3110525.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448207680972413810" /></a><br />Helge was oblivious to the wind – he is now an artist-photographer in his element:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhLNG3j7AqgniCBlR86ssSAVTmVi-6HGP5R_F4EVT9WiBNPdKIQ3YpdkqQY7jd0t5fo6wApR1iHqOwA2xKuEkghVtksCWf5zxxR2K2wp-tw8KoUaPs1RUMXMLwOjT-S3Ns0A7ke606RCYF/s1600-h/P3110527.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhLNG3j7AqgniCBlR86ssSAVTmVi-6HGP5R_F4EVT9WiBNPdKIQ3YpdkqQY7jd0t5fo6wApR1iHqOwA2xKuEkghVtksCWf5zxxR2K2wp-tw8KoUaPs1RUMXMLwOjT-S3Ns0A7ke606RCYF/s320/P3110527.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448207867386702898" /></a><br />We spent the day taking video and stills – Helge uses a HD video camera and has taken an enormous amount of film and stills on this trip (1 Terabyte). High definition accounts for much of this huge number of memory, and in all probability only a small percentage will find its way into the video he’s producing about the trip.<br /><br />Here are some shots of Helge “catching the wind” at a beautiful overlook:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMdzsRzIehuY-mxPnk9jyrn-zTcFbFr2D_xsQfMmHa7qrSdq4gbtTpERGrvIj_084tZdD0HhkyZ0iDQfAqhBFZPmcbqVWkBRXFU6IZH45O3_Z9QI8BW16ShbWLw1uiJeqrebyAqP6-JQSy/s1600-h/P1010480.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMdzsRzIehuY-mxPnk9jyrn-zTcFbFr2D_xsQfMmHa7qrSdq4gbtTpERGrvIj_084tZdD0HhkyZ0iDQfAqhBFZPmcbqVWkBRXFU6IZH45O3_Z9QI8BW16ShbWLw1uiJeqrebyAqP6-JQSy/s320/P1010480.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448208196882732338" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6sadD0RKSnp9OPwgv1ZYIr0Z3ZgaMI5KY4u0VZqRLU6zVhyUIeU4n-aR-Ke7_oidpWffkxiyEm1fFpi4cQTAS1_OD5AaVMHYm6RNf6JADyCftFG_MlEJj_l0ftnmeOdoLUR5tfGw0hlwm/s1600-h/P1010479.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6sadD0RKSnp9OPwgv1ZYIr0Z3ZgaMI5KY4u0VZqRLU6zVhyUIeU4n-aR-Ke7_oidpWffkxiyEm1fFpi4cQTAS1_OD5AaVMHYm6RNf6JADyCftFG_MlEJj_l0ftnmeOdoLUR5tfGw0hlwm/s320/P1010479.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448208126377549122" /></a>(photos by Vince Cummings)<br /><br />Vincent also shares some shots that he took throughout the day:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia_EE7-9niudRkUEtrtX0lpNXsQdkqCEptc-Ab-E_2Tr6jmw9Jjzg5pPVuf6wOUULDvE9SPWjpu2gFK7-k0mQ32sqPPvd7X_fZnEt1ffXEXj6UWJ31XxoUu4JysgwHzlUTa_DdfPTovydC/s1600-h/P1010459.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia_EE7-9niudRkUEtrtX0lpNXsQdkqCEptc-Ab-E_2Tr6jmw9Jjzg5pPVuf6wOUULDvE9SPWjpu2gFK7-k0mQ32sqPPvd7X_fZnEt1ffXEXj6UWJ31XxoUu4JysgwHzlUTa_DdfPTovydC/s320/P1010459.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448208696865267746" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-hZ9Tmsmc9Qy9t-4fBoa8QNE4WV63VxUVz9NnStQGKAVfgfE8MhjQXfjyIBN5zbZSWEWGIxnGZOhi3FilWilSEsg9R5c2cj6Kf4nJvzd1FXrFmM5YfoTHUB-1bX4bXhAmOxYqF5-uivTr/s1600-h/P1010464.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-hZ9Tmsmc9Qy9t-4fBoa8QNE4WV63VxUVz9NnStQGKAVfgfE8MhjQXfjyIBN5zbZSWEWGIxnGZOhi3FilWilSEsg9R5c2cj6Kf4nJvzd1FXrFmM5YfoTHUB-1bX4bXhAmOxYqF5-uivTr/s320/P1010464.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448208623398022658" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3JingXtjK_gEg7Xb2pO3BFvCSojwrisCgLgidGw_zYR-lcprxGlN0Ec-p_dv5N5dQPjPuSm_wkMXR6VQa37LnfLwPvXsyvwMPHGGmAu3lETVTUdP07tf6FEhUx0Q8q822cJrN0c-93ezC/s1600-h/P1010455.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3JingXtjK_gEg7Xb2pO3BFvCSojwrisCgLgidGw_zYR-lcprxGlN0Ec-p_dv5N5dQPjPuSm_wkMXR6VQa37LnfLwPvXsyvwMPHGGmAu3lETVTUdP07tf6FEhUx0Q8q822cJrN0c-93ezC/s320/P1010455.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448208531927689346" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxuaTzGh8u-y-T4mDXCvNWNYz1zBVVeT6Y4bOq65WLFiz_Rq7BTX16vGoWxUaaUzQ8PYapFMlRfvM4NSAs80H4CPJ3GhQNZISCbKFfrNrsQ7UeZh-8XA6YKoFSyAAtaFHQHUABwQOPz8RA/s1600-h/P1010448.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 232px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxuaTzGh8u-y-T4mDXCvNWNYz1zBVVeT6Y4bOq65WLFiz_Rq7BTX16vGoWxUaaUzQ8PYapFMlRfvM4NSAs80H4CPJ3GhQNZISCbKFfrNrsQ7UeZh-8XA6YKoFSyAAtaFHQHUABwQOPz8RA/s320/P1010448.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448208458331687698" /></a><br />This river has the sort of chop that you see in the Gulf Stream when the wind blows from the north and the Gulf Stream flows from the south:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK7D7iXlbax5-lKub7WThmhPK-k7fdi56A3LoQk24xh0RJNWZxlYBk37Gf106ucYtD7QH4CQI8r-rQ5Va2m7efx_5xwNJDhcGDiBFaxUUYzXk6J9mEO_Cl1jFIZg1fMV6iDQZJ4sang8aK/s1600-h/P3110523.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK7D7iXlbax5-lKub7WThmhPK-k7fdi56A3LoQk24xh0RJNWZxlYBk37Gf106ucYtD7QH4CQI8r-rQ5Va2m7efx_5xwNJDhcGDiBFaxUUYzXk6J9mEO_Cl1jFIZg1fMV6iDQZJ4sang8aK/s320/P3110523.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448208949954238322" /></a><br />It’s interesting to watch the clouds as they cross over the spires:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCSjHgcJcstgb3dnjwrk-lwqYblR9Zw77ffuJ06dDCQ-E7p8WixwpAAH7X70ieaGIrRu2XDYvWFVek0iARUNgkXSr-Xhe74gWswVKyA7bdWHaEk-KXVOf5axUsZkLIA5Mxg7qiysZdekwM/s1600-h/P3110536.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCSjHgcJcstgb3dnjwrk-lwqYblR9Zw77ffuJ06dDCQ-E7p8WixwpAAH7X70ieaGIrRu2XDYvWFVek0iARUNgkXSr-Xhe74gWswVKyA7bdWHaEk-KXVOf5axUsZkLIA5Mxg7qiysZdekwM/s320/P3110536.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448209117287657938" /></a><br />The spires rise approximately 9,000 feet, and the clouds, to a large degree, vanish as they pass over the spires, dumping snow as they pass, which feeds the glacier. By the time they pass over the spires, the clouds have been transformed from full and bushy to light and wispy. This leaves the topography on the right side of the range arid, with near-desert conditions.<br /><br />I have pulled a muscle in my back (the one you would use rowing a boat), so it’s difficult for me to stand up and tackle rough terrain. We have lunch and I take the rest of the day off to ice my back.<br /><br />This gave me some time to complete a task I had begun earlier while the others were tied up watching the exciting movement of the glacier: brainstorming award names to properly recognize the four mighty motorcycles on which we have relied.<br /><br />The coveted Palomo award, named after the horse of Simon Bolivar (the hero of South American independence) goes to my motorcycle, an HP2 with modifications. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Wol9VJ1pe0rkUX40NK3Nut8Iaib6XAyz9TfT9mVUWutejLckWOZ21K_vpl0yuWrHLaFTgXofNQjWXuH6NIPzYJA6iWM8aunzVj1YOIRwBxcqh3pMUKxnENREP86EsaDUk7pWkC7tifk4/s1600-h/P3090440.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Wol9VJ1pe0rkUX40NK3Nut8Iaib6XAyz9TfT9mVUWutejLckWOZ21K_vpl0yuWrHLaFTgXofNQjWXuH6NIPzYJA6iWM8aunzVj1YOIRwBxcqh3pMUKxnENREP86EsaDUk7pWkC7tifk4/s320/P3090440.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448209392612739826" /></a><br />It receives this honor for a variety of reasons, but mostly because it has been much maligned by the other three who have brand new BMW Adventurers, heavy motorcycles with all sorts of fancy gadgets (anti-lock brakes, traction control, “on-the-fly” suspension-adjustment, a tire pressure controller, and a variety of others). I hear that next year Nieman Marcus will offer a version of the Adventurer with a mink seat and sidecar bidet. <br /><br />While I am resting, the other three go out for a ride, and while stopped on a small summit, all three of them were blown from their bikes. This episode provided the inspiration I needed for finalizing the award names for their bikes: Larry, Curly, and Moe.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-20290524540272928502010-03-11T06:46:00.001-08:002010-03-11T07:44:09.733-08:00Day 61-64 – March 5-8<strong><em>Puyugapi, Chile to Perito Moreno, Argentina to El Chalten, Argentina to El Calafate, Argentina </em></strong> <br /><strong><em>March 5</em></strong><br />We pulled out of Puyugapi early in the morning and caught a view of the clouds partially obscuring the mountains:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-OLFs_pVYi_UAVnebjgsoAPllpjPclW0_vYWPeYlKLsWu1WtRGxQuSOlSooU_qnCPaBkmdoJsQFaU5NV_BsgWwdrTWcczar3i9-3gic5r6aHohPsumcmJ8VdpCX5LajQiKlMobHxxVIUF/s1600-h/P3050186+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-OLFs_pVYi_UAVnebjgsoAPllpjPclW0_vYWPeYlKLsWu1WtRGxQuSOlSooU_qnCPaBkmdoJsQFaU5NV_BsgWwdrTWcczar3i9-3gic5r6aHohPsumcmJ8VdpCX5LajQiKlMobHxxVIUF/s320/P3050186+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447387911250969922" /></a><br />We passed alongside a fjord which connects directly to the Pacific, and made both of our Norwegian colleagues, Helge and Roger, homesick. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe8K6Dd8p2Alr6geh6l80PMQkQXbbBaYmU5__pkLUISkgfc3WZ87eKnDtEkjC_KkLnC2VusDsnIVilsMJFnKtt6JTI9Ab0DRCIoikneU0F8cWScf8McfM0JbLJzIKoyXCbW4yLM4Ws2kID/s1600-h/P3050184+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe8K6Dd8p2Alr6geh6l80PMQkQXbbBaYmU5__pkLUISkgfc3WZ87eKnDtEkjC_KkLnC2VusDsnIVilsMJFnKtt6JTI9Ab0DRCIoikneU0F8cWScf8McfM0JbLJzIKoyXCbW4yLM4Ws2kID/s320/P3050184+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447388083654336162" /></a><br />In the fjords are many fish farms (perhaps twenty in each grouping). It’s difficult to find wild ocean fish in Chile—most of the fish is farmed:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIbCIEFL4hkpbhkDpHNRBHpYqyQpYZVoEwGiFedXlmgYI0BkZ9fO0YNUu8HyBnnC9Fw2W7RA336SvZ1war7gk0dfbMizvEJOiCjVQ9kxb-gza80dlgeeyVyTs24nlzAbCvtHOQ-UXQAott/s1600-h/P3050191+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIbCIEFL4hkpbhkDpHNRBHpYqyQpYZVoEwGiFedXlmgYI0BkZ9fO0YNUu8HyBnnC9Fw2W7RA336SvZ1war7gk0dfbMizvEJOiCjVQ9kxb-gza80dlgeeyVyTs24nlzAbCvtHOQ-UXQAott/s320/P3050191+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447388242196265106" /></a><br />We blasted down the mountain roads, which are somewhat precarious due to loose gravel. We try to pay attention and don’t follow each other too closely, as the dust obscures tricky little road hazards. A lot of the ride parallels fast moving streams emptying into the fjords and eventually into the Pacific:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg17gmQQ1j3xJJAq-MFXHos_JXYx64ATFgLUNd-TCRq0ZqsQA7lYV2ZhW8Wvki9K8qbjiSiHXEPLw7gK_jX9rnT-xI6ZjgITJQ-QouXFL1DRys5CkqYgNXXwPkQ-GUOxZWKAraHfZHKjZiI/s1600-h/P3050195+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg17gmQQ1j3xJJAq-MFXHos_JXYx64ATFgLUNd-TCRq0ZqsQA7lYV2ZhW8Wvki9K8qbjiSiHXEPLw7gK_jX9rnT-xI6ZjgITJQ-QouXFL1DRys5CkqYgNXXwPkQ-GUOxZWKAraHfZHKjZiI/s320/P3050195+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447388353004113458" /></a><br />The foliage along the road was dusty, but these large elephant-eared plants (some with leaves four feet across) seem to thrive.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigMNFHuYBCc3R54rvLlNs6MIgU5n5JEt-EEJ1p7XCxryx38xLbskW4WZVatQQsR1dutkY9V1-ygtkXw8KEQ5ON37Oqqxt-Uj9mLCdwwbZMBW7MF8l6BanlDnYQp_7klnsz4SIsvORmk67u/s1600-h/P3050196+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigMNFHuYBCc3R54rvLlNs6MIgU5n5JEt-EEJ1p7XCxryx38xLbskW4WZVatQQsR1dutkY9V1-ygtkXw8KEQ5ON37Oqqxt-Uj9mLCdwwbZMBW7MF8l6BanlDnYQp_7klnsz4SIsvORmk67u/s320/P3050196+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447388479260641010" /></a><br />Roger got a flat along the way, and Vincent alone was able to locate the elusive hole, which is sealed by putting a thin rubber impregnated rope into a tool and inserting the twine into the hole. This patch job took only ten minutes, and we were again on the move. If we had tires with tubes, the tire would have to be removed, the tube would have to be removed, the tube patched inserted back into the tire, and the tire put back onto the rim and re-inflated – a lot of work. For adventure motorcycling, spoke wheels are much more durable and much less susceptible to the catastrophic failure that can occur with a magnesium- or aluminum-cast wheel. But the spokes need to pass through the rim outside the location of the tire and the air pressure—apparently BMW has a patent on this design, and they have the only spoked tubeless rims that work (I believe their patent is due to expire next year).<br /><br />The gravel road on which we rode was crowned in the center…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz5pHEqSmeSMexxbWELtS-blDi9g2L4GtC4QngCmAERvqxa9XTVfxI44qpJvdtwVFPCkTtYJrNWMs7v-kM9XDEkf3th8A8O-wWQM9pM2ZnAGPKnAG1r0O7HQfwzT08qyN7D0s_3Ad1t6OX/s1600-h/P3050202+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz5pHEqSmeSMexxbWELtS-blDi9g2L4GtC4QngCmAERvqxa9XTVfxI44qpJvdtwVFPCkTtYJrNWMs7v-kM9XDEkf3th8A8O-wWQM9pM2ZnAGPKnAG1r0O7HQfwzT08qyN7D0s_3Ad1t6OX/s320/P3050202+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447388601047851426" /></a><br />. . .making it necessary to stay on the right side of the road when passing around a left corner to avoid oncoming traffic. This makes it easy to slide down the crown and into a ditch – the key is to go slow and to stand up through the corners to provide better weight control to shift the bike into a tighter turn on the gravel – it’s of course important to concentrate and not daydream!<br /><br />Some of the forests we saw were similar to rainforests. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBj-K7kWcPk4x1njbNhtk1gysh-oG38jhThRguZ1_zyIyBbB38o-LvCQiuhu1nUu3Pfrbte8HZxizoJeHe3oxO5tyTZs4R12dKnsIPzf7BFXjFlfb3LU27K-cjylVwZnSbf2QC1FWQv_IS/s1600-h/P3050205+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBj-K7kWcPk4x1njbNhtk1gysh-oG38jhThRguZ1_zyIyBbB38o-LvCQiuhu1nUu3Pfrbte8HZxizoJeHe3oxO5tyTZs4R12dKnsIPzf7BFXjFlfb3LU27K-cjylVwZnSbf2QC1FWQv_IS/s320/P3050205+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447388750519056946" /></a><br />. . .with a variety of impressive vistas: pretty flowers…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1bA2ziQFeijV5j8TiN5CHLcQAI4YxejVCWeOPdmDvsmkFchYKVcRGJA8FLlwqGVe3xVaCzFWxouBZPUYGsFqob8l_9U28nK7T2nzCJVKntiC4LrU704TsQ-hPDVhEbkOcChKqt40L_gBl/s1600-h/P3050208+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1bA2ziQFeijV5j8TiN5CHLcQAI4YxejVCWeOPdmDvsmkFchYKVcRGJA8FLlwqGVe3xVaCzFWxouBZPUYGsFqob8l_9U28nK7T2nzCJVKntiC4LrU704TsQ-hPDVhEbkOcChKqt40L_gBl/s320/P3050208+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447388906576186050" /></a><br />. . . rocky, snow-covered mountains…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3wdadqkr03NTsaHF7XW1AZPbtHHDarjEN5-O6aTpt_F8L2eLNAZ8mgyNnwX1n7_g0LoNXe0eZj14GKW93EaE_3x5kIwsMNCWrI6lnqzX_P11LY9053A7-3vHcJwxXskB-aSfMOK2A0ai7/s1600-h/P3050206+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3wdadqkr03NTsaHF7XW1AZPbtHHDarjEN5-O6aTpt_F8L2eLNAZ8mgyNnwX1n7_g0LoNXe0eZj14GKW93EaE_3x5kIwsMNCWrI6lnqzX_P11LY9053A7-3vHcJwxXskB-aSfMOK2A0ai7/s320/P3050206+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447389018528079746" /></a><br />. . . beautiful streams cascading for thousands of feet down the sides of mountains…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4vPQwDdrFWUCbbGvlhXFRyhxw7KZorJh2ImYkAPB7fsZVfC9FgYuxWfNuGE7pLV4e1mzl-m6x08XZimvgaGh9XA6kv04Q1eDM8MgHfyzfAAQJZJr8l9OVR6LD4X_7qFJwbkq4nxFFlHon/s1600-h/P3050212+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4vPQwDdrFWUCbbGvlhXFRyhxw7KZorJh2ImYkAPB7fsZVfC9FgYuxWfNuGE7pLV4e1mzl-m6x08XZimvgaGh9XA6kv04Q1eDM8MgHfyzfAAQJZJr8l9OVR6LD4X_7qFJwbkq4nxFFlHon/s320/P3050212+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447389139166398594" /></a><br />. . . and of course the ever-present shapes of dormant volcanoes:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLv4c8NV6fyOlGEhUSA1dsglCykt6rLCTLLm-thFjMsEWTLz9ncs3xl0ltJJzdAv74_ztW7BdzNsvxQZ14zga_UC7guZZczVvkb74ApR0ciR42LP6xhRj9jf285DIRmeMqHYwpkg9lBKz4/s1600-h/P3050221+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLv4c8NV6fyOlGEhUSA1dsglCykt6rLCTLLm-thFjMsEWTLz9ncs3xl0ltJJzdAv74_ztW7BdzNsvxQZ14zga_UC7guZZczVvkb74ApR0ciR42LP6xhRj9jf285DIRmeMqHYwpkg9lBKz4/s320/P3050221+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447389283140648162" /></a><br />Vincent found a fishing stream and got a lot of help from Helge and Roger in his attempt to catch this primitive animal with its reflex-like brain. The fish won.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPxAY0lcVvwzQUU1y2dxeoFvg01xlKCbtCIs3ejH8DWsvfWDihOEgOAWF_DvQlGAfOceNmA74YN9vHZakJm56eSvOEu6EENDWSCGPM-tyWsL2SUuwmW2jTcK3r1wYFdmL9cttfC21rZds8/s1600-h/P3050234+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPxAY0lcVvwzQUU1y2dxeoFvg01xlKCbtCIs3ejH8DWsvfWDihOEgOAWF_DvQlGAfOceNmA74YN9vHZakJm56eSvOEu6EENDWSCGPM-tyWsL2SUuwmW2jTcK3r1wYFdmL9cttfC21rZds8/s320/P3050234+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447389516838136530" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2UIgnEppZ_b0Y0TEKxSOoYWEGDDuiBCrvcCP1aD4XpxRx4BpumGbJs0wxoLdxYxSQQwccXeBV8mgCpN_Mw5_ZeyfOdSX1IxLyxCTdLp9TZun5HTsdtz3ie_k7nBBsuoohzAKQzWCRCdb/s1600-h/P3050242+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2UIgnEppZ_b0Y0TEKxSOoYWEGDDuiBCrvcCP1aD4XpxRx4BpumGbJs0wxoLdxYxSQQwccXeBV8mgCpN_Mw5_ZeyfOdSX1IxLyxCTdLp9TZun5HTsdtz3ie_k7nBBsuoohzAKQzWCRCdb/s320/P3050242+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447389449987056610" /></a><br />Just as in the case of the hawk, we Homo sapiens aren’t as smart as we think we are.<br /><br />Near our fishing spot is a firewood harvester, which has a clever suspension cable to carry the wood across the river:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTnz2Vd1gri72AP989JN8NMPCKrucWDqZsVwyHgvoWT-MbDXpTB80c2AD_8wCqprFLiQNmbQSWABW3pFsMTSA6WcFmObZwQEJSDv8MXwDoIczl3D2po728xLVUsUXLjYUbxa7yxWu1vtM0/s1600-h/P3050237+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTnz2Vd1gri72AP989JN8NMPCKrucWDqZsVwyHgvoWT-MbDXpTB80c2AD_8wCqprFLiQNmbQSWABW3pFsMTSA6WcFmObZwQEJSDv8MXwDoIczl3D2po728xLVUsUXLjYUbxa7yxWu1vtM0/s320/P3050237+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447389656489632498" /></a><br />We pass some quaint but not particularly organized looking farms…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJrARRkts5uPF-Swwp61jiJLIQii-yUNblWNV3mN1IFwde4JScvTaN3Qnda7EYz6amuiYQqmkcoBucuKJ43I2HQthaQZQuG4UBOkijF6fZ7MjcccxA4TEF4oXU2sfFZGZsv3xWS_Z71oXK/s1600-h/P3050222+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJrARRkts5uPF-Swwp61jiJLIQii-yUNblWNV3mN1IFwde4JScvTaN3Qnda7EYz6amuiYQqmkcoBucuKJ43I2HQthaQZQuG4UBOkijF6fZ7MjcccxA4TEF4oXU2sfFZGZsv3xWS_Z71oXK/s320/P3050222+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447390463742167986" /></a><br />. . .and some well-manicured farms, like this one with poplars three-deep lining the property line:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdD-DWtJ8rOP0kJmTas6cnPbRBiTCYZAmLOT_2VgDNpeIVzAZbk0hcISQ2Aa2U7vR1gYkwuhWZrVzshiC66lFlZHVdUSHpiy0xdeEZfM0WaQQJOxfx_jL_ZwbJEmzwM6mG6K0flDgvH6T4/s1600-h/P3050256+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdD-DWtJ8rOP0kJmTas6cnPbRBiTCYZAmLOT_2VgDNpeIVzAZbk0hcISQ2Aa2U7vR1gYkwuhWZrVzshiC66lFlZHVdUSHpiy0xdeEZfM0WaQQJOxfx_jL_ZwbJEmzwM6mG6K0flDgvH6T4/s320/P3050256+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447390594276850834" /></a><br />One of the nice things about Argentina is the mix of influences apparent here: on the one hand, I see evidence of an orientation toward left-brained, sequential Germanic structure; on the other, I see evidence of right-brained Italian and French influence. As it relates to farms, the meticulous arrangement of the poplars above reminds me of a jack-booted German general staff officer with a focus on organization, and the rough-and-tumble-but-productive farms remind me of the artistic and casual culture of the French and the Italians.<br /><br />We saw the old. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl9FDvXuR9sSaxM7Da1vljF2oAaSBL_dEVfnXfRJYCmFXW38sjbcR0d9XD6MZ5IlYTNMXCkDiCo3AIdyeBlpPpaD8F-U5Q6Z5zRkwktZzMVA_-_mDlDBXDIsSjw9eLhXsO4AeFwT2BojCp/s1600-h/P3050257+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl9FDvXuR9sSaxM7Da1vljF2oAaSBL_dEVfnXfRJYCmFXW38sjbcR0d9XD6MZ5IlYTNMXCkDiCo3AIdyeBlpPpaD8F-U5Q6Z5zRkwktZzMVA_-_mDlDBXDIsSjw9eLhXsO4AeFwT2BojCp/s320/P3050257+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447390900979354466" /></a><br />. . .and the new…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzYyLx6Qw4sMbBWxWycvQPKna-exoCHdUZ8VT1Y91pMYAxtH2K-9d62I7czehQq5SwiFVln6BH79iFJovLIUunSNY4nWviNklAeGPyXFGxgaPxEkqkAnoJ-zjbnbeelgJnooHrmebMqG61/s1600-h/P3050270+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzYyLx6Qw4sMbBWxWycvQPKna-exoCHdUZ8VT1Y91pMYAxtH2K-9d62I7czehQq5SwiFVln6BH79iFJovLIUunSNY4nWviNklAeGPyXFGxgaPxEkqkAnoJ-zjbnbeelgJnooHrmebMqG61/s320/P3050270+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447391037256793826" /></a><br />. . .within thirty miles of each other. As we passed back into Argentina, I show off for the first time (in my best Marlon Brando pose) my new earring made from the chandelier retrieved from the quake-stricken hotel in Chile.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE_SGdsJlAhu1YkYg_CCOXUVeEFYB9JqDrlphyb773rLcWmDNM2V_vM8kPfY_OxxwzmT26FpZXbtP7DGUkUaVzBN9oC0NCIag17q7L7ZUoVs9cn1DAVLOjY622UKVgvKFhNzoeINsiB-gt/s1600-h/P3050279+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE_SGdsJlAhu1YkYg_CCOXUVeEFYB9JqDrlphyb773rLcWmDNM2V_vM8kPfY_OxxwzmT26FpZXbtP7DGUkUaVzBN9oC0NCIag17q7L7ZUoVs9cn1DAVLOjY622UKVgvKFhNzoeINsiB-gt/s320/P3050279+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447391194273116770" /></a><br />At the border, the Argentines display a reminder that the Falklands belong to them and not to Britain.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8fXusE4adwuWVYEJ_vrv46sEQdph81h1_e6zJCqU44WcvIrUeLcAne3HKR5n3oF_yFlzbHul5NjTefs2E7GniHvSo3EvscABxZLa7Sk32RlArI9UuwSEbmNnnn94lqDuDp-RenyPE0r7i/s1600-h/P3050280+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8fXusE4adwuWVYEJ_vrv46sEQdph81h1_e6zJCqU44WcvIrUeLcAne3HKR5n3oF_yFlzbHul5NjTefs2E7GniHvSo3EvscABxZLa7Sk32RlArI9UuwSEbmNnnn94lqDuDp-RenyPE0r7i/s320/P3050280+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447391321978444882" /></a><br />Do you suppose this territorial urge has more to do with crude oil or sheep?<br /><br />The remainder of the day we traveled dirt roads much like this:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDbf6xzTRyz9rUs8Ny5I0uxeGdz1gadgL692krTqY8SfA58gsX9gdgu3pZdL6V6S7x6vbREa5B_rr36HzAJcvIUuIBj5JXgzKokjWFYmejskS8CPxY2PmPeA-H9ZKN7Jdz6Nse1Ha-i9cj/s1600-h/P3050288+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDbf6xzTRyz9rUs8Ny5I0uxeGdz1gadgL692krTqY8SfA58gsX9gdgu3pZdL6V6S7x6vbREa5B_rr36HzAJcvIUuIBj5JXgzKokjWFYmejskS8CPxY2PmPeA-H9ZKN7Jdz6Nse1Ha-i9cj/s320/P3050288+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447391483859466306" /></a><br />For the most part, the road was in excellent condition. We sometimes reached speeds of 70 mph, which required us to concentrate on a one-foot tire path where the gravel had been pushed aside by cars. If you happened to hit the gravel, it could swing the bike into an oscillation that could flip it over, or, as this is colloquially called, topside the bike. The other risks on this road were fast approaching hazards: like deep mounds of gravel across the entire road, deep ruts in the road made by heavy vehicles when the road is wet, or the unexpected or sudden appearance of gravel-covered corners that appear just over the tops of hills. If the wind were blowing, it would further complicate trying to keep the tires within the one foot ribbon of road.<br /><br />We had initially planned to stop at Coihaique, Chile but to allow more time in the more souther part of Chile and Argentina, we decided to press to Perito Moreno, Argentina - and set a record distance for the day of 500 km (on gravel roads, no less).<br /><br />We arrive in Perito Moreno late and discover another group of motorcyclists at our hotel. We have covered in one day the miles that they covered in two. There group is fairly well structured and travel together in a single group – with a chase car bringing up the rear. We don’t have a chase car but do have our preferred route outlined on our GPS – so it is not imperative that we ride together, although we generally stay within 10 minutes of each other.<br /><br />The parking area is full of bikes and cars and because of my bent kickstand I prop my bike against the hotel to keep it upright.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRkBpnXXu89CF2JZne9BvAbducprzVo7NK7y9FkMI0fsNiqhJc1_Lff7pX-N1b-cqeYihxB9g8x2qrmc-UjQQbqRgw6KzbQkZbuSaAQjcemc61SJQDk0BEVZL1bv5yzVy428o308IIAlC/s1600-h/P3060296+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRkBpnXXu89CF2JZne9BvAbducprzVo7NK7y9FkMI0fsNiqhJc1_Lff7pX-N1b-cqeYihxB9g8x2qrmc-UjQQbqRgw6KzbQkZbuSaAQjcemc61SJQDk0BEVZL1bv5yzVy428o308IIAlC/s320/P3060296+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447396715961562978" /></a><br /><strong><em>March 6</em></strong><br />We rise early in the morning and in no time are again on a dirt road. We travel through what Darwin described of Patagonia “a wretched and useless area” and as Vince described “a place where you can watch your dog run away for three days.” We pass through small deserted communities which may have once been someone’s dream that didn’t quite work out.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjc_Dp8cS5E0TzM50hF4jBPkVLX8vwd5RxwqfTyJf2Urwk7Kn2Pqr2_GruChg2p5cos27nfal-BbQsznhW2OdC-JEIMpYKn2353XjjLmPqKkW_6REOYjRXORpZXIYo5rmz_Uj2xXW3Ri8f/s1600-h/P3060305+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjc_Dp8cS5E0TzM50hF4jBPkVLX8vwd5RxwqfTyJf2Urwk7Kn2Pqr2_GruChg2p5cos27nfal-BbQsznhW2OdC-JEIMpYKn2353XjjLmPqKkW_6REOYjRXORpZXIYo5rmz_Uj2xXW3Ri8f/s320/P3060305+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447396931528004562" /></a><br />Here is a distant shot of a guanaco, a wild and furrier cousin to the domestic llama:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhOF8m1dL5rJJIgkBILN8kjvJONgS1-WuFzMt798OUq_Cn27Sq709-cgdGoGzaL2OqcQ8NG53C-gla_PJqehyphenhyphen-RsDhOgMWT0KoBmN_sVXw8kVoo2fJj5Yh49F-Hm0b6-S26jbYff7_5RN4/s1600-h/P3060308-a.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 207px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhOF8m1dL5rJJIgkBILN8kjvJONgS1-WuFzMt798OUq_Cn27Sq709-cgdGoGzaL2OqcQ8NG53C-gla_PJqehyphenhyphen-RsDhOgMWT0KoBmN_sVXw8kVoo2fJj5Yh49F-Hm0b6-S26jbYff7_5RN4/s320/P3060308-a.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447397077962272098" /></a><br />This turns out to be my most unlucky day – and my most lucky day. We’ve been traveling over this type of dirt road for over three hours (note the bare spots that have been made by the traffic and the piles of gravel piled up alongside). This “sweet-spot” pathway is one to two feet wide.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOy0Ft2M0hD6Kas-6ZvRI8Hyf5Fn_rHAKM7iUUCMObWIm7PIu-AHZFgpdhgPdTKGHB_uWCj2cpMAcYxS0IfjjFN3ZUSuFO52aBIhajALkrRL4ET6MDH5k3xooKv214Arav2zvl3ePwM774/s1600-h/P3060309+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOy0Ft2M0hD6Kas-6ZvRI8Hyf5Fn_rHAKM7iUUCMObWIm7PIu-AHZFgpdhgPdTKGHB_uWCj2cpMAcYxS0IfjjFN3ZUSuFO52aBIhajALkrRL4ET6MDH5k3xooKv214Arav2zvl3ePwM774/s320/P3060309+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447397193455245090" /></a><br />The road requires concentration and constant vigilance to keep the motorcycle within the clear path and out of the gravel. It’s a comparatively simple task if you concentrate. But after several hours of driving I began daydreaming, looking at the scenery and taking photographs on the fly. I was traveling at 50-60 mph and was taking a picture as I came over a rise and sunk into a patch of deep gravel. The bike began to violently oscillate and ended up getting “topsided” - flipped from the motorcycle which went tumbling down the road, fortunately, next to me. The net result for me was a badly scratched helmet with a broken piece, a torn jacket at the elbow and shoulder, a stiff and bruised shoulder, a sore back and a dramatically bruised ego. The motorcycle did not fare as well – the accident bent the handlebars, broke the custom made structure that supported the custom windshield, scratched the windshield, flattened both rearview mirrors, broke one of the headlights, broke off part of the clutch lever, damaged both handguards and caused minor damage to the back of the panniers. But these BMW’s are extremely tough and there is no damage to the important “working” parts (the tires, the suspension, the engine, the transmission and the frame). The lucky part is that I got off lightly – but since the rule is “if the accident is not caught on film – it didn’t actually happen” as far as I’m concerned the damage to the bike, helmet and riding suit could have happened anywhere! For now we’ll call it vandalism.<br /><br />It was a short distance to the ranch where we had planned to stay – but there was no room at the Inn. So instead I repaired the bike as best I could, had lunch and pressed on to the next spot on the itinerary. Here is my bike following the interim repairs:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbY450GP5RkT-Oc2cRJhtdOT3UfRsnKPhI1GsHEPilDQApLG2nCjsEFR3c8T3Id-Ko11qzS_BoTkKfrfCQDSyOpwgrq3CNbHRtL6VVvH0PNlhojdcf1r3Q-rvngQAkDhbst14RAq-pO1GO/s1600-h/P3060311+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbY450GP5RkT-Oc2cRJhtdOT3UfRsnKPhI1GsHEPilDQApLG2nCjsEFR3c8T3Id-Ko11qzS_BoTkKfrfCQDSyOpwgrq3CNbHRtL6VVvH0PNlhojdcf1r3Q-rvngQAkDhbst14RAq-pO1GO/s320/P3060311+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447397375446893714" /></a><br />. . . missing one mirror, badly scratched windshield (which isn’t necessary anyway), handlebars pretty well back in shape.<br /><br />We pressed on through the terrain and in an hour or so were rewarded with beautiful vistas – a large glacial lake:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlIgLdD1QgwzDd_KHSFk89yzmprFINrXdBs73rn2Ux7w6CWi1mMhgSxS7PktnDZ7hdIdfChl63LOTYypdf9WunwNeq0kP8Xt-s3hlqSkHIDPkEvzDGQlnVHzmCeCr6DMzI8m8QlzE3TJ1u/s1600-h/P3060312+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlIgLdD1QgwzDd_KHSFk89yzmprFINrXdBs73rn2Ux7w6CWi1mMhgSxS7PktnDZ7hdIdfChl63LOTYypdf9WunwNeq0kP8Xt-s3hlqSkHIDPkEvzDGQlnVHzmCeCr6DMzI8m8QlzE3TJ1u/s320/P3060312+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447397559576222754" /></a><br />. . .rugged distant mountains:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijESB1l3KYBGRZNRe_x7PoCHwtTzvB7UX_ecmq1O9VrsxBboK5LpRlK7RCdq5nB3YItm4fXZCJFrl9OhZfgLVeiazg5hmD0rCzZottBWvIj5pSk5RAZdpzilvKHx2zH3WBNoWlkD92YxdB/s1600-h/P3060316+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijESB1l3KYBGRZNRe_x7PoCHwtTzvB7UX_ecmq1O9VrsxBboK5LpRlK7RCdq5nB3YItm4fXZCJFrl9OhZfgLVeiazg5hmD0rCzZottBWvIj5pSk5RAZdpzilvKHx2zH3WBNoWlkD92YxdB/s320/P3060316+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447397731331866130" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLw0Tsil-ZEqvn3vtvudRTNmCrEZnQFLU4Dj-rPbDDoLt4czfZzflfnpzrWn9yFD8D2VNUXMHzkUbhd08biSmV688NM14bpH59KQQJ0JSHlVk2AVrhIsQgUwhd7I0FwxY-jIqpKzeCiuCO/s1600-h/P3060323+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLw0Tsil-ZEqvn3vtvudRTNmCrEZnQFLU4Dj-rPbDDoLt4czfZzflfnpzrWn9yFD8D2VNUXMHzkUbhd08biSmV688NM14bpH59KQQJ0JSHlVk2AVrhIsQgUwhd7I0FwxY-jIqpKzeCiuCO/s320/P3060323+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447397681788080338" /></a><br />. . .and finally a distant shot of Cerro Fitzroy and Cerro Torre (the highest spire in a compact range of granite peaks in the Glacier National Park) – we will get a better view when we arrive in El Chalten, Argentina where we will spend the night.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo4eV-_i12TTTnh2w6isP_fktBliURoXyZjFfcs0M2Oq87Tho5T6vNovtxsjUCJkgL3_U2JsCLr8uPfapX-mXxW9oa64ZohdmCPOTewYHEuJcuIiXO-ThIJfTKe7Y9FI837ZDC-7gZw5qZ/s1600-h/P3060344+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo4eV-_i12TTTnh2w6isP_fktBliURoXyZjFfcs0M2Oq87Tho5T6vNovtxsjUCJkgL3_U2JsCLr8uPfapX-mXxW9oa64ZohdmCPOTewYHEuJcuIiXO-ThIJfTKe7Y9FI837ZDC-7gZw5qZ/s320/P3060344+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447399501740653266" /></a><br />We spend the night at El Chalten, largely a hiker and backpacker town:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrP05eTKoPAv96NoB-Arke1gc3tnqKJxFzwMALqInAy94nVy_foPJz-373Q_2mCjIRViWPoY8p53TpbYJDyer-Sorga4ilYphypVRHz77s7o2__Hlju8lyi-ihk1PxiA-_r3ELvbxR5SMT/s1600-h/P3070349+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrP05eTKoPAv96NoB-Arke1gc3tnqKJxFzwMALqInAy94nVy_foPJz-373Q_2mCjIRViWPoY8p53TpbYJDyer-Sorga4ilYphypVRHz77s7o2__Hlju8lyi-ihk1PxiA-_r3ELvbxR5SMT/s320/P3070349+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447399656187152546" /></a><br /><strong><em>March 7</em></strong><br />We discover several other motorcycle groups in town. I make an appointment to have my kickstand heated and bent but it’s the weekend and I get stood up - - so here’s the peg-leg solution that I settled for.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC371wcicb8xKNG-Z90mtIpmUOKhIAj6fR_jTBV3iSrBTHRI_17Wb8rBMdk4LKRdMKUwcUPgyHjh2BoRCg4ISL6LNBu5LGRu_-0Soc-SjqEgErm_zyMQHQKj80Zr_b1M_cbny0EfTjV-xT/s1600-h/P3070367+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC371wcicb8xKNG-Z90mtIpmUOKhIAj6fR_jTBV3iSrBTHRI_17Wb8rBMdk4LKRdMKUwcUPgyHjh2BoRCg4ISL6LNBu5LGRu_-0Soc-SjqEgErm_zyMQHQKj80Zr_b1M_cbny0EfTjV-xT/s320/P3070367+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447399823463758642" /></a><br />We head north around Lake Argentino to Lake Viedma on a beautifully sealed highway. The landscape is the same, large expanses, comparatively dry with occasional populated areas.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLkAu3vHi0TvsGIAylS5xaMHkn30TpIpY44Y0dh8vJWeor393PCnrSjkkEeS8_gHMNkhzuNqCwFyg1ZuG6xm3DI0C29TyK8sqCO5fcqwxCq2Ehl5Fuec2HZC8XHSUEiatjFrACNhlfORp8/s1600-h/P3070375+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLkAu3vHi0TvsGIAylS5xaMHkn30TpIpY44Y0dh8vJWeor393PCnrSjkkEeS8_gHMNkhzuNqCwFyg1ZuG6xm3DI0C29TyK8sqCO5fcqwxCq2Ehl5Fuec2HZC8XHSUEiatjFrACNhlfORp8/s320/P3070375+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447399940926199874" /></a><br />We spend the day touring the area and stay the night in a town called El Calafate, a small town on the southern border of Lake Argentino that is the base camp for many of the tour groups.<br /><strong><em>March 8</em></strong><br />We had a ridiculously early 6:30 a.m. breakfast in order to arrive at the Perito Moreno Glacier in time to catch the morning light. Marge always tells me that it’s bad manners to read the paper at the breakfast table – look at these guys diving into their iPhones and Blackberries – they don’t even know where they are.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7eBD8eVIHu-OkAPooqGt7U7th5D543qynxG1JAu1-01bEcb-wRoGNCkJwmFThfAQ2263So7spDZYzr3P9q4nQewko3qXc3ah5i1Z7YPWtdJAwDiEaaPBhlvpTNG37mxX4eI9bIYzhEWRE/s1600-h/P3080377+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7eBD8eVIHu-OkAPooqGt7U7th5D543qynxG1JAu1-01bEcb-wRoGNCkJwmFThfAQ2263So7spDZYzr3P9q4nQewko3qXc3ah5i1Z7YPWtdJAwDiEaaPBhlvpTNG37mxX4eI9bIYzhEWRE/s320/P3080377+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447400114175232834" /></a><br />It was around a sixty mile drive as dawn was breaking through farmlands framed with snow-capped mountains. . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIMADk2flZNdD4cjDf9YH5NoEsJstbn2TfpZFVOyc7CdWzLRuoiMyJ3sha6g5Y1zrQsZgD0cd0MV92cGZPdIWL92IwKDDwcUNL539Mny_EABxDZmCGtpFsH54hxr7JuddcmS7ATZUyps4/s1600-h/P3080380.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIMADk2flZNdD4cjDf9YH5NoEsJstbn2TfpZFVOyc7CdWzLRuoiMyJ3sha6g5Y1zrQsZgD0cd0MV92cGZPdIWL92IwKDDwcUNL539Mny_EABxDZmCGtpFsH54hxr7JuddcmS7ATZUyps4/s320/P3080380.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447400235079379394" /></a><br />. . .on a beautiful curvy concrete highway along the banks of Lake Argentino.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfbd_NmRPe-sCTeXf2OSqTAEQLE-pwucIeDoo-BHUbyIvR3SAoY60ADqso4VL4ttUv-4UyepO1RFtyKLXjIjVgTRcgjZnRb72Tq4TWzt0iB5ROrDMd2IdJAjI8eT307kUo-7FuxVx5y7R5/s1600-h/P3080382.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfbd_NmRPe-sCTeXf2OSqTAEQLE-pwucIeDoo-BHUbyIvR3SAoY60ADqso4VL4ttUv-4UyepO1RFtyKLXjIjVgTRcgjZnRb72Tq4TWzt0iB5ROrDMd2IdJAjI8eT307kUo-7FuxVx5y7R5/s320/P3080382.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447400346000213618" /></a><br />We arrived at the Perito Moreno Glacier:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1HWx_3aj7KNwuoGfQuZfx5QfEHanPs9HQZkaIhxFGkyFpZsCJ-iMfV9FE56AGdLRMIDk9lPDF4-8DLcY-L6XZhhSNUc9TOuLOTPoyfUgP7M_92rgDDojH1Ff1S_8cDc9WGFGhXQG0xHe/s1600-h/P3080383.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1HWx_3aj7KNwuoGfQuZfx5QfEHanPs9HQZkaIhxFGkyFpZsCJ-iMfV9FE56AGdLRMIDk9lPDF4-8DLcY-L6XZhhSNUc9TOuLOTPoyfUgP7M_92rgDDojH1Ff1S_8cDc9WGFGhXQG0xHe/s320/P3080383.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447400608446565378" /></a><br />The glacier itself was magnificent and beautifully framed by the mountains in the distance and the lake in front of us. The outer perimeter of the glacier is a mile or two long and it forms an arc as it empties into Lake Argentino.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7lm5jRa8U6juxwbvJVUcdhvd8OjQCkDaJ841-LIHl3u0gXEuqFFuh31EEWGVO8gNhDP6RqW8gjwEHpmJqPZ_Td2CSP0PEOShJ0MUlvuNq4lVOqiRROJSkIK5u-QkdgL9mjiol9hF_wtII/s1600-h/P3080385.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7lm5jRa8U6juxwbvJVUcdhvd8OjQCkDaJ841-LIHl3u0gXEuqFFuh31EEWGVO8gNhDP6RqW8gjwEHpmJqPZ_Td2CSP0PEOShJ0MUlvuNq4lVOqiRROJSkIK5u-QkdgL9mjiol9hF_wtII/s320/P3080385.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447400725251436482" /></a><br />Its surface is dotted with thousands of peaks, each approximately fifty feet high, carved by the rainfall. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5Uu87D1Wh_p2-p7h7AoZ2qlBo71dJsOB31Ijf503MvdScfGD2y3MZnTjQutVJxu5nXFT_A1BO5huzYLi5ASCwK-Ua-OkdgTJUclWREOp4OZbkj5OynPGf61PhWxD7RYJK2QAR3sxgVcG/s1600-h/P3080396.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5Uu87D1Wh_p2-p7h7AoZ2qlBo71dJsOB31Ijf503MvdScfGD2y3MZnTjQutVJxu5nXFT_A1BO5huzYLi5ASCwK-Ua-OkdgTJUclWREOp4OZbkj5OynPGf61PhWxD7RYJK2QAR3sxgVcG/s320/P3080396.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447400838563445378" /></a><br />The surface of the glacier is dirty from the sand blowing off the mountains. The sand is carried down through cracks in the glacier, forming veins of dirt along the glacier’s exposed surface. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEb0C_6s3P54-LA2TvojWenNJeGgQEYna_EqL4vTRGru5yxK7REmMCa8Im68-q0nCtBG0nVd3Ji3uRQF5YZXYNNDw-3aTGNjKdlx1slzEPLBUj62CML0NxU_AWBuUZsJt0TMIDCdxXudo/s1600-h/P3080391.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEb0C_6s3P54-LA2TvojWenNJeGgQEYna_EqL4vTRGru5yxK7REmMCa8Im68-q0nCtBG0nVd3Ji3uRQF5YZXYNNDw-3aTGNjKdlx1slzEPLBUj62CML0NxU_AWBuUZsJt0TMIDCdxXudo/s320/P3080391.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447400944753711890" /></a><br />At its highest point, the glacier seems to be about 200 feet tall. From time to time you can see pieces falling from the glacier into the lake. The face of the glacier was mottled with patches of bright blue, which seemed to be ice in a purer and more compact state.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL9i2uUP6-BwbgcMV-u19SXooNWQ7R7OTp-sm40Z7qUyr2Omw9YApodjTj6m9qmhaKRs_XnwTlboWTQvIjWsf1ohSzJXe_x9U1qCteqDiXKJDqDmbZG-Xi0gUBfQwxlXIYHzTn-SoUkL25/s1600-h/P3080392.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL9i2uUP6-BwbgcMV-u19SXooNWQ7R7OTp-sm40Z7qUyr2Omw9YApodjTj6m9qmhaKRs_XnwTlboWTQvIjWsf1ohSzJXe_x9U1qCteqDiXKJDqDmbZG-Xi0gUBfQwxlXIYHzTn-SoUkL25/s320/P3080392.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447401093543116258" /></a><br />Small continuous sounds rang out like shotgun blasts, as did an occasional louder sound comparable to the sound of a distant cannon—these noises are the cracking of the glacier caused by the pressure as the glacier advances. As the sun rose higher in the sky and the glacier warmed, the frequency of the sounds increased (perhaps one load boom every five minutes). <br /><br />I still can’t get my head around how a glacier moves – the angle at which it traverses is not particularly steep (as in an avalanche). Obviously the weight of the ice is sufficient that even a small angle decline will cause the face to be pushed forward. This is a tiny glacier when compared to the glaciers that covered Canada and parts of the US during the ice age – some more than a mile deep.<br /><br />We are all concerned about global warming – but looking at the geological history of the earth, during the existence of some mammals, we had enormous ice caps covering sections of the northern hemisphere and I imagine that the melting of those ice caps was much greater than the melting we are experiencing currently. When we think about global warming – we should try to think of it in that context. <br /><br />The Argentines have done a remarkable job of providing a good road to the park and ease of access to the glacier by means of walkways and staircases that allow for viewing it at a variety of heights and perspectives. They charge $20 per person for entrance to the park, which was well worth it. Even early in the morning the park was thriving with spectators.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU3sp8-jBpesc0EgdcrkMdlyg7ypEbXZU9PRrDkqI02EG7cfk97GInF5tm2oXXoM793Z52arP8ZJf8WhkyJO1_0pIuO1UqiyGJabbJs7jEHqOtq8TAm4kjnXXVEQ_FILsvezNtWP7UevfU/s1600-h/P3080395.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU3sp8-jBpesc0EgdcrkMdlyg7ypEbXZU9PRrDkqI02EG7cfk97GInF5tm2oXXoM793Z52arP8ZJf8WhkyJO1_0pIuO1UqiyGJabbJs7jEHqOtq8TAm4kjnXXVEQ_FILsvezNtWP7UevfU/s320/P3080395.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447401238950458274" /></a><br />It’s hard to capture on film a piece of glacier calving into the water – I don’t have the patience nor the reflexes – but here’s what it looks like just after a piece dropped in.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuBtt4ncadUfKh3bfdPfeaDajYZFkMwV0QQ22crmHtZbXAyjpVSENMPmGB7yu0akXfl1uqNxr8kBPhs5KWOtRKUVhKu14Xb-lx7MCgZPrCNYZqiww2F7hefVT4FCT18EAxAhIZMGMK83xy/s1600-h/P3080397.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuBtt4ncadUfKh3bfdPfeaDajYZFkMwV0QQ22crmHtZbXAyjpVSENMPmGB7yu0akXfl1uqNxr8kBPhs5KWOtRKUVhKu14Xb-lx7MCgZPrCNYZqiww2F7hefVT4FCT18EAxAhIZMGMK83xy/s320/P3080397.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447401355287268690" /></a><br />The tree line here is barely 2,000 feet high (near the equator, the tree line was at the altitude of 14,000 feet). In this the valley defined by the lake, the wind howls through and inhibits tree growth, as does the granite surface of the mountains. The weather conditions here are harsh – winds are routinely in excess of 70 mph (fortunately not today). The gusts require increased concentration in order to maintain your lane while riding. When heading into the wind it is difficult to breathe, with apparent wind speeds near 100 mph (motorcycle speed + wind speed). When the wind is at your back, there is an odd stillness—and no throttle required. It’s when the wind blows from the side that things get exciting! <br /><br />The glacier and lake are beautiful and I hate to leave, but I’ve got to make some additional repairs to my motorcycle and fix the kickstand. I’m sick of having to lean the bike against buildings and putting rocks under the stand every time I park. I find a garage that has a strange version of an oxy acetylene torch – it has a cylinder of oxygen but the flammable gas is produced I believe by combining carbide (a stone-like material) with water. The carbide is put in a tray that slides from the bottom of the red cylinder. The tray is slid into the cylinder and capped and water is added to the top. When the pressure gets above a few pounds, the valves are opened, and the oxygen and carbide gas mix forming a flammable material. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBQrrwGt6v_pzpxJO15HEtnOH2JC6o903Ne3MAjZeDYZZDT70giJBN7EzuzyAkrAgW3rUeHkA8nw6Zo0YGZN3H-rKChWdLuc9x9GmLw7K-JMx_VT-yULujK4_Be1CfbEsF0XoAt0j_YCkQ/s1600-h/P3080410.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBQrrwGt6v_pzpxJO15HEtnOH2JC6o903Ne3MAjZeDYZZDT70giJBN7EzuzyAkrAgW3rUeHkA8nw6Zo0YGZN3H-rKChWdLuc9x9GmLw7K-JMx_VT-yULujK4_Be1CfbEsF0XoAt0j_YCkQ/s320/P3080410.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447401467921163426" /></a><br />We get the kickstand bent in two directions and stiffen it by welding in a couple of steel gussets and here is the end result:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9DvzS54gElBYc9tEegms9noR36_DlRqpJScz91JMDrE7G7h1rfkhDZlOWmm9-U4r4QLsT49VjLSo4UP5YZ9QptB6X6X_Xt5PJKEmYDtTSBAviFSyCdFz_tqKYHihmzV5Wksa1uTt8boUI/s1600-h/P3080411.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9DvzS54gElBYc9tEegms9noR36_DlRqpJScz91JMDrE7G7h1rfkhDZlOWmm9-U4r4QLsT49VjLSo4UP5YZ9QptB6X6X_Xt5PJKEmYDtTSBAviFSyCdFz_tqKYHihmzV5Wksa1uTt8boUI/s320/P3080411.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447401582054746706" /></a><br />The torch didn’t run very long, so it took over half an hour to heat the kickstand enough to bend it. It works fine now. Here is the able craftsman highlighting his gussets:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGvTpDaTWYq1Yglm17COA6vIYppkM5NQ9Gd0fESUdj5koMQ9TyhB1CUJzyRaH5OVlZvrRlNMLdQBkuEccogxaKxYv-xJW7PuDiguaQEL5z8O8Wb7ZfxOy0H0ww8XqhU8gpKmVTL1Wewm1C/s1600-h/P3080412.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGvTpDaTWYq1Yglm17COA6vIYppkM5NQ9Gd0fESUdj5koMQ9TyhB1CUJzyRaH5OVlZvrRlNMLdQBkuEccogxaKxYv-xJW7PuDiguaQEL5z8O8Wb7ZfxOy0H0ww8XqhU8gpKmVTL1Wewm1C/s320/P3080412.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447401717545146018" /></a><br />We had lamb for dinner – prepared in an unusual and dramatic way:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcPPc-BJX1FEQRuYc7-NR_WMxrA1E6lSEmU4hyphenhyphen5LinFGbrzCi_4Xx8Tob-U7IXmssRrb6ZtFbD-29C9WWlPyagRrwEUOZuGy8AxUmt13yeV_zd5m8hR0RqFTXeEEXIXDKtcaaLyTtb46ih/s1600-h/P3080415.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcPPc-BJX1FEQRuYc7-NR_WMxrA1E6lSEmU4hyphenhyphen5LinFGbrzCi_4Xx8Tob-U7IXmssRrb6ZtFbD-29C9WWlPyagRrwEUOZuGy8AxUmt13yeV_zd5m8hR0RqFTXeEEXIXDKtcaaLyTtb46ih/s320/P3080415.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447401839183038402" /></a><br />The open fire is inside a glass enclosure and the lamb does not appear to be turned front to back – as a result, as in most of the Argentine restaurants we have visited, the meat was overcooked.<br /><br />We are excited that tomorrow we will visit the famous Torres del Paine Park – a highlight of the trip.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-32295667042804374342010-03-08T14:26:00.000-08:002010-03-09T07:38:49.186-08:00Day 57-60 – March 1-4<strong><em>Osorno, Chile to San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina to Los Alerces National Park, Argentina to Puyugapi, Chile</em></strong><br /><br /><strong><em>March 1</em></strong><br /><br />We got a late start out of Osorno and headed to Moto Aventura, the tour operator Helge had arranged to have our tires changed. We started the trip with knobby tires for Baja Mexico, changed to road tires, and now we will switch back to knobbies. <br /><br />Without a center stand, switching tires on my bike requires lifting it into a 3-point stance (the points of support being the back tire, the kickstand, and a metal stand propped underneath the skid plate).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQNN7Yfu5uG6aKXllPvhnALOKjdEubwRGiTMF08Y2ahpyyNOB831Fdswqd-APR5hA0TBtNso7Y9U6EuOW_kV3HV8w_OlBTzjau5axJRF9MO3LC-746fqjEyNbLeQjo_rYU4qHsDk70FGO1/s1600-h/P3010213.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQNN7Yfu5uG6aKXllPvhnALOKjdEubwRGiTMF08Y2ahpyyNOB831Fdswqd-APR5hA0TBtNso7Y9U6EuOW_kV3HV8w_OlBTzjau5axJRF9MO3LC-746fqjEyNbLeQjo_rYU4qHsDk70FGO1/s320/P3010213.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446394572679605490" /></a><br />Changing the tires was made much easier by a machine that automatically breaks the bead on a tubeless tire and peels the tire from the rim. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOcVeJIV4r8_kjilLN01J7t9YHiZRhCPADNKwmkQ1jUrzGR92HSrQPjbzj9s-P4h7rR0yYGAwOvjU4ic0GKv09reaT0yjSC5x7KBili6YLBT7qdgiQjRXKZMcfnmlvcDdb6JUNMVE_NmU7/s1600-h/P3010214.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOcVeJIV4r8_kjilLN01J7t9YHiZRhCPADNKwmkQ1jUrzGR92HSrQPjbzj9s-P4h7rR0yYGAwOvjU4ic0GKv09reaT0yjSC5x7KBili6YLBT7qdgiQjRXKZMcfnmlvcDdb6JUNMVE_NmU7/s320/P3010214.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446394968312964258" /></a><br />In the process of changing the front tire, I think I may have bent the kickstand which will need to be repaired later after I figure out a way to heat it, enabling it to bend more easily.<br /><br />We rode through lovely farmland and could just make out a snow capped volcano in the distance:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVt6R7liN70a6HRwc6LvmcrQOvrWEx7-c-CPZgBNUh3wbxHklx6hRbTZlTBuyS6iteKAqVehUBfq609eDZ80U-G40_raWip2BpAdhREgyulfzUsEwXeS4sh1BPWJFhddvOUyqpV5VwosIL/s1600-h/P3010225.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVt6R7liN70a6HRwc6LvmcrQOvrWEx7-c-CPZgBNUh3wbxHklx6hRbTZlTBuyS6iteKAqVehUBfq609eDZ80U-G40_raWip2BpAdhREgyulfzUsEwXeS4sh1BPWJFhddvOUyqpV5VwosIL/s320/P3010225.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446395160306263010" /></a><br />We passed some beautiful lakes. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRDd8AvZNLH4BPo7ExNpOKXWtswGv7r0ASQxRomoi2-s1xfVsM9Cw0M-otPwsXYMx4y6t2DlsJL4nypNFk22BnqkUpI-C5hPQ9fPjZfD2jAu1F6hMq9ViCA4G9WNiVXyEYEa5XhyX7u7ee/s1600-h/P3010227.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRDd8AvZNLH4BPo7ExNpOKXWtswGv7r0ASQxRomoi2-s1xfVsM9Cw0M-otPwsXYMx4y6t2DlsJL4nypNFk22BnqkUpI-C5hPQ9fPjZfD2jAu1F6hMq9ViCA4G9WNiVXyEYEa5XhyX7u7ee/s320/P3010227.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446395345940714514" /></a><br />. . . and as we approached the Argentine border, spectacular mountains came into view:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg19Ka7-zkAQr4bXAqJe6tkPv4Q5u7YJU2Gg1GANFX9gVVWPgOUZRRqfiQXGazX2KoulvP9toO7Yql8jab3ikecnVoO0umFZVe4-qSKHUC_vxzY4oyBVTr4MSt2IViPqGJKAzaaYas2Hxlj/s1600-h/P3010228.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg19Ka7-zkAQr4bXAqJe6tkPv4Q5u7YJU2Gg1GANFX9gVVWPgOUZRRqfiQXGazX2KoulvP9toO7Yql8jab3ikecnVoO0umFZVe4-qSKHUC_vxzY4oyBVTr4MSt2IViPqGJKAzaaYas2Hxlj/s320/P3010228.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446395609585362674" /></a><br />The border crossing was relatively easy—they only asked me to open two bags, which made me feel that my efforts to shave and dust off my motorcycle jacket were worthwhile. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT51FveSyO6C-Vv1UvmGh9n_Dt7NRCB8tsrtKw0adIpvatxyOL0pN67sn0KRIDPQgBc-67zizeGHhh0ktXrxbmFMNgj5C6hwY-oivWUChqg0wU2DpTpnP1q756d6PgWf7h7dVY1BQpBZ7c/s1600-h/P3010231.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT51FveSyO6C-Vv1UvmGh9n_Dt7NRCB8tsrtKw0adIpvatxyOL0pN67sn0KRIDPQgBc-67zizeGHhh0ktXrxbmFMNgj5C6hwY-oivWUChqg0wU2DpTpnP1q756d6PgWf7h7dVY1BQpBZ7c/s320/P3010231.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446395766467263266" /></a><br />The ride to Bariloche was entirely on paved roads through a gorgeous park system. The outcropping you see here is the remnants of a volcano. The center peak is a column of hardened magma and the surrounding slopes have washed away over time:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk0pvo1ymF7F5HNWYJDWNJ7mjRMnR73wk-lNwQZnrLhyphenhyphen3ccpjtVPz5lw_pxZXd9uqPQMk6S8iw7yAKh6sHuUlALL0Lrpm4PlL-cH1G3qqjoFf_bej_n4d9NMofbRIbpYKmUsfP6XO5-Jc8/s1600-h/P3010235.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk0pvo1ymF7F5HNWYJDWNJ7mjRMnR73wk-lNwQZnrLhyphenhyphen3ccpjtVPz5lw_pxZXd9uqPQMk6S8iw7yAKh6sHuUlALL0Lrpm4PlL-cH1G3qqjoFf_bej_n4d9NMofbRIbpYKmUsfP6XO5-Jc8/s320/P3010235.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446395928396908450" /></a><br />An explanation of the volcano’s current profile is provided on this plaque:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr0E-Kl2ipzo2rO8gSeAOM7IJYd4U1ATwzQPeL0rUQO48TfD_6FmpAw2cBvNrJQITrOUopKjxdPQI7JkzCxPlzO7Gi0cniHIM13HqU3OrTorE9788DHzpz_qmfyEHxEq0rf6c_AW1zhZ-R/s1600-h/P3010236.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr0E-Kl2ipzo2rO8gSeAOM7IJYd4U1ATwzQPeL0rUQO48TfD_6FmpAw2cBvNrJQITrOUopKjxdPQI7JkzCxPlzO7Gi0cniHIM13HqU3OrTorE9788DHzpz_qmfyEHxEq0rf6c_AW1zhZ-R/s320/P3010236.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446396105864313778" /></a><br />The road was serpentine, tucked closely alongside the mountain. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4hHEWEJoBpoHO-EKLRVZKSW8hWSN6zDNNP0Jbo0ZZP3feIgboYNmstDNOke15YJosQWlm8wJvwlfdQ1xRbSpg3zcwUaBSpV47MMLbF9zQY5q8v_E2S9bzlCNo0V9OVVhPAfhDKXwu1Zn9/s1600-h/P3010237.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4hHEWEJoBpoHO-EKLRVZKSW8hWSN6zDNNP0Jbo0ZZP3feIgboYNmstDNOke15YJosQWlm8wJvwlfdQ1xRbSpg3zcwUaBSpV47MMLbF9zQY5q8v_E2S9bzlCNo0V9OVVhPAfhDKXwu1Zn9/s320/P3010237.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446396258819096802" /></a><br />. . .with beautiful vistas.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2p2SdgSnwk1onUbACghL_9ulnXGLQ_SONuKZwzDV0RyhESTIzVGxdIk4zPF8lEXw6u7JbgPgCOpDdvOB_B9Q7W7rstvm9uE6Z5HNAX0t4pAsYtB3BoibC_mQmLkIwG0sP5FyWAta_VUPl/s1600-h/P3010241.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2p2SdgSnwk1onUbACghL_9ulnXGLQ_SONuKZwzDV0RyhESTIzVGxdIk4zPF8lEXw6u7JbgPgCOpDdvOB_B9Q7W7rstvm9uE6Z5HNAX0t4pAsYtB3BoibC_mQmLkIwG0sP5FyWAta_VUPl/s320/P3010241.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446396402470945458" /></a><br />The poles alongside the road are high enough to still be seen when the area is covered in snow.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEN2LTvT-F1NnWFES8qXP1Nu7YBwwxujS4XQ2mLeQAy9BBxWKjQbpS01kUYMzuSA2vfDKG2oUKgoCK3EYMxFMSTAGnY1_SbShwaseA5P17VR-cNEdXr6M6KEWM-nv0XXP9t2ASW4qQ19Aw/s1600-h/P3010243.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEN2LTvT-F1NnWFES8qXP1Nu7YBwwxujS4XQ2mLeQAy9BBxWKjQbpS01kUYMzuSA2vfDKG2oUKgoCK3EYMxFMSTAGnY1_SbShwaseA5P17VR-cNEdXr6M6KEWM-nv0XXP9t2ASW4qQ19Aw/s320/P3010243.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446396541588836322" /></a><br />Bariloche sits beside a huge beautiful lake framed by the mountain range:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiduCHN30QA9RQz8gVuoEx-TnrSHl1Fj4lYM1ZCLG3u5V07OUNVxHbp6Sl1ecLU6n1EbDu2JTx7HRlHsj1rWGdRdH0NmgYjNrk-Nf9H163P3uLVnm9i_j4Zb3I08Wf7kdAsm8tgpnlfi1um/s1600-h/P3010251.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiduCHN30QA9RQz8gVuoEx-TnrSHl1Fj4lYM1ZCLG3u5V07OUNVxHbp6Sl1ecLU6n1EbDu2JTx7HRlHsj1rWGdRdH0NmgYjNrk-Nf9H163P3uLVnm9i_j4Zb3I08Wf7kdAsm8tgpnlfi1um/s320/P3010251.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446396698261305314" /></a><br />We had an enjoyable dinner:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGX3y5rTggbYaUNpHRLFjDEG4DgvYNdbGBgqmL_ZbEoq_qsUwEBfRGlCWOj9uiKvSH6POZVaqrlZYY_K3I3auz5K4VBzj5i1X-HkXqAxIubXxVTM3YeCvPtFAqwvFQDZDQ7c25sXTv3H_N/s1600-h/P3010257.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGX3y5rTggbYaUNpHRLFjDEG4DgvYNdbGBgqmL_ZbEoq_qsUwEBfRGlCWOj9uiKvSH6POZVaqrlZYY_K3I3auz5K4VBzj5i1X-HkXqAxIubXxVTM3YeCvPtFAqwvFQDZDQ7c25sXTv3H_N/s320/P3010257.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446396836099597554" /></a><br />Helge managed to consume this entire plate of food:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6eYg6yFHJG-BWBNZ6AhF2ZG9GxIxjaERqRtPo7WB1T8KoMD1_Mtvev1icCbSELVU3kIxTPILDfYz-Onjj97ADeENMlyQfbAsV5xZqN5z0OjYk2PuPp1yi-sNjhsR91DbCwC4q9w2wqXqy/s1600-h/P3010255.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6eYg6yFHJG-BWBNZ6AhF2ZG9GxIxjaERqRtPo7WB1T8KoMD1_Mtvev1icCbSELVU3kIxTPILDfYz-Onjj97ADeENMlyQfbAsV5xZqN5z0OjYk2PuPp1yi-sNjhsR91DbCwC4q9w2wqXqy/s320/P3010255.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446397283035120530" /></a><br />The food here is hard to identify (as in China) – not sure if it is mammal or fish. But as Helge is a vegetarian (or, more accurately, a pescetarain), this meal was comprised solely of things from the sea (note the size of the octopus).<br /><br />We hooked up with an entertaining real estate developer from San Diego who was in the Bariloche area for three months trout fishing and enjoying the hospitality of the Argentine women, who (he claims) have a love/hate relationship with Americans. He said that Bariloche was one of the top four fishing spots in the world. In one day, he caught nearly a hundred fish – he would cast and WHAM, a trout would hit the fly. The largest trout he caught was twenty-four inches long. Incidentally, he follows a “catch and release” policy for both the fish and the women.<br /><br />Vince and Roger had brought along fishing gear and felt it imperative to stay an extra day to try out the waters.<br /><br />Bariloche appears to be Argentina’s version of Aspen or Vail – it’s known as “little Switzerland.” I have never seen more chocolate shops – and they were all very busy. All of the shops were “high end” and I was able to replace my second lost Swiss Army knife.<br /><br />I was surprised at the lack of activity on the lake in Bariloche. There were very few sailboats and only a few beaches – the lake provides more of a vista than an activity.<br /><br /><strong><em>March 2</em></strong><br />We stayed an extra day in Bariloche while Roger and Vince went fishing and Helge caught up on his correspondence. I spent the day shopping and drove up into the mountains to explore the local ski area and the dirt roads above the city.<br /><br />Even though Bariloche is a small town, it is still in Argentina, and in Argentina CNG (compressed natural gas) is king. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJuLD158eUgMThiRORZd-NRdh0kTvrp3neNOfgTp6omg7S2Cgh4pJTA00OBPqlN4dL2em74IGmb3Y2Y6Qs-L_mcKtTcP-DVzEZ8GiHs8Oc4x4jTIn6o4v6KGDHsD57dUwIfulHbR2R3n7f/s1600-h/P3020001.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJuLD158eUgMThiRORZd-NRdh0kTvrp3neNOfgTp6omg7S2Cgh4pJTA00OBPqlN4dL2em74IGmb3Y2Y6Qs-L_mcKtTcP-DVzEZ8GiHs8Oc4x4jTIn6o4v6KGDHsD57dUwIfulHbR2R3n7f/s320/P3020001.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446397576505568402" /></a><br />I headed to the mountains and the ski area, which has many more amenities than were available in Portillo, Chile, but appears to lack some of the aggressiveness of the terrain.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXrwlEKF0AdAVrZNkDhYyf_cipFXlLR8e9ndwkIFaxIiQPg99Y0AAeHq1R6I7pprkUkO5x_ZIDk0lT5KLD2WESdmdoQPQR62KRdIOLgQniXpmqBktB8XV7a2e4DZZ27u-hvh7cYIbY01gP/s1600-h/P3020002.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXrwlEKF0AdAVrZNkDhYyf_cipFXlLR8e9ndwkIFaxIiQPg99Y0AAeHq1R6I7pprkUkO5x_ZIDk0lT5KLD2WESdmdoQPQR62KRdIOLgQniXpmqBktB8XV7a2e4DZZ27u-hvh7cYIbY01gP/s320/P3020002.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446397812219950482" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqtgiUO-2N0_KdJRhK_TDS2e0_aKno1V6z6_iutwC3WBS348-A4g784yfRQSFC_fMgB3hA91ZpKHDSmZsTgn56suS2JytT5-3oyq934rFcByWuBxy-vh_FhzAiD4_lXGuFyj2f2MD6GJDZ/s1600-h/P3020008.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqtgiUO-2N0_KdJRhK_TDS2e0_aKno1V6z6_iutwC3WBS348-A4g784yfRQSFC_fMgB3hA91ZpKHDSmZsTgn56suS2JytT5-3oyq934rFcByWuBxy-vh_FhzAiD4_lXGuFyj2f2MD6GJDZ/s320/P3020008.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446397755211878834" /></a><br />It was surrounded by beautifully forested mountains, but the ski area itself was much smaller than that of Aspen or Vail:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij1Du312BnxBbr7pgy5oeuX5MbSSPC6Yf6_mleIkDBsYsmrxutVG7-n7jGj9Thv4jkShVk55J0AFDQHwjp3aSGxe4ZUwxZJfFEAKt4eWDuZo8ZV8yDfqqe7mqfT1KkoT529RjniBPzLoyg/s1600-h/P3020003.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij1Du312BnxBbr7pgy5oeuX5MbSSPC6Yf6_mleIkDBsYsmrxutVG7-n7jGj9Thv4jkShVk55J0AFDQHwjp3aSGxe4ZUwxZJfFEAKt4eWDuZo8ZV8yDfqqe7mqfT1KkoT529RjniBPzLoyg/s320/P3020003.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446398056730475410" /></a><br />I found a trail which I followed for ten or fifteen miles down into a small village on the other side of the mountain. The sides of the road were framed with lush vegetation and steep, rough, craggy mountains:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFO50aDh0lBK_bz9QQNxfxTaHaEK62YIsEAvoRn-a8hl6n5-QK37X6m6GR6ko43Id6Fgl7CW6Lt-jwrU7JwS-Z3dCFCqc45IHaJil_hXmqh_aaIMF1a-CKnb6yTQudFCeJjODzKrpqtTzX/s1600-h/P3020010.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFO50aDh0lBK_bz9QQNxfxTaHaEK62YIsEAvoRn-a8hl6n5-QK37X6m6GR6ko43Id6Fgl7CW6Lt-jwrU7JwS-Z3dCFCqc45IHaJil_hXmqh_aaIMF1a-CKnb6yTQudFCeJjODzKrpqtTzX/s320/P3020010.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446398494998574818" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrAOBslDrhjtIad18zDxi7_9JyNLPYQS1Mk1QaAHfsOIptn86BLTrBVkJpy8-YVm6Lz-xW3LSCTpWk1Gpw8SkXKGwL4ZxdGlNz78OFUpnBAucfTgbBA3wNIdXwLqQj2zcCPqwt58TQHsdO/s1600-h/P3020011.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrAOBslDrhjtIad18zDxi7_9JyNLPYQS1Mk1QaAHfsOIptn86BLTrBVkJpy8-YVm6Lz-xW3LSCTpWk1Gpw8SkXKGwL4ZxdGlNz78OFUpnBAucfTgbBA3wNIdXwLqQj2zcCPqwt58TQHsdO/s320/P3020011.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446398357373190258" /></a><br />In spots in Bolivia, the tree line was at times higher than 14,000 feet, but as we have moved farther south, the tree line (influenced by snow and wind) is down to about 4,000 feet.<br /><br />At the far end of the lake, I was disappointed to see a golf course (the first one we’ve seen in at least a month), but I guess you can’t have a version of Vail or Aspen without a golf course:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPBlImWbrTPOP4FHzRRwtd8GbXV9tv8jZR7U_SyAhJLE-QbL1SxSePykMOcinmi-fB_6geUbmTsvYUxzLZ3Sx9R0G0k-3nf-iNj4rd8VNJimAC5JNLeNj__U_Xf1bO745ahYP2WQWsoI6O/s1600-h/P3020013.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPBlImWbrTPOP4FHzRRwtd8GbXV9tv8jZR7U_SyAhJLE-QbL1SxSePykMOcinmi-fB_6geUbmTsvYUxzLZ3Sx9R0G0k-3nf-iNj4rd8VNJimAC5JNLeNj__U_Xf1bO745ahYP2WQWsoI6O/s320/P3020013.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446398682410486066" /></a><br />Passing through some of the small villages, I inspected some new construction. This small apartment complex is three stories of poured concrete—exactly the type of building that cannot handle a significant sideward motion, particularly when perched on a hill: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTb_l-aMCDfdD2Qyq0b7xR_bDW1pidMnGI1hEvasnejif6_6lUpdRVZ3SxWYsW4ema25cbabB41tQecCj7FkdmI1vvKK3b8BixDf8vhEiG2n5v8ruTqCE3pOib6OvDcxTiNMMqMU1iXhuL/s1600-h/P3020015.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTb_l-aMCDfdD2Qyq0b7xR_bDW1pidMnGI1hEvasnejif6_6lUpdRVZ3SxWYsW4ema25cbabB41tQecCj7FkdmI1vvKK3b8BixDf8vhEiG2n5v8ruTqCE3pOib6OvDcxTiNMMqMU1iXhuL/s320/P3020015.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446398839354758946" /></a><br />To give it added strength against collapse, this lightweight brick is used for the walls (but this has virtually no ductility and could break like glass):<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5QD6EEe0piULHF4LyV97GnFcetxyh7o9QvsK6fA-bNiZUGQwX-60RtSZC5LKY5YMRS8gj-CBT4vfJdz9FT23Nk_Kg7vQW46nCwRVXd2yEO2ea9872TEEcjtCB76PnGMMx6-0mWuldqP4/s1600-h/P3020014.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5QD6EEe0piULHF4LyV97GnFcetxyh7o9QvsK6fA-bNiZUGQwX-60RtSZC5LKY5YMRS8gj-CBT4vfJdz9FT23Nk_Kg7vQW46nCwRVXd2yEO2ea9872TEEcjtCB76PnGMMx6-0mWuldqP4/s320/P3020014.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446398998549938002" /></a><br />The largest areas of destruction in the recent Chile quake occurred in areas where they use mud bricks which have no strength at all and collapse very easily (particularly on steep slopes).<br /><br /><br /><strong><em>March 3</em></strong><br /><br />We got an early start out of Bariloche. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfXMUr2NCyXmAXvxcQkaEDK2JV7g2fnMvATAE7JJuXRvOtlr6Ic7oCk9np-vgjCa7sguwDZvXwIyidcE9QWuEZrDzkvzSe00MQhOxK62UKRaTcsjEgDuWiY17jo8oQF5EQEn6389qkOuxl/s1600-h/P3030019.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfXMUr2NCyXmAXvxcQkaEDK2JV7g2fnMvATAE7JJuXRvOtlr6Ic7oCk9np-vgjCa7sguwDZvXwIyidcE9QWuEZrDzkvzSe00MQhOxK62UKRaTcsjEgDuWiY17jo8oQF5EQEn6389qkOuxl/s320/P3030019.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446399249568039970" /></a><br />. . .and headed south on sealed roads through some beautiful country:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb5bsjjoslLoOc1CoX77BMn2aTXoBMNG6Ywyi0knFai_OO6zSUc_knn0a-kDxCbgmRvo_u5KmbBmRtyI6gi9HS4O46LiR5qRAu-Bky_q80HprxvzCM_K_blQKAMf_-0ibMrg-pMsyEHStR/s1600-h/P3030029.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb5bsjjoslLoOc1CoX77BMn2aTXoBMNG6Ywyi0knFai_OO6zSUc_knn0a-kDxCbgmRvo_u5KmbBmRtyI6gi9HS4O46LiR5qRAu-Bky_q80HprxvzCM_K_blQKAMf_-0ibMrg-pMsyEHStR/s320/P3030029.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446399495881859714" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih5etfKy4w2a1s1Hiz00zLjEO3H4Wdm8AHjJYRg-pxMFpuDJoGdRG7KuqJ0VdZTWatXIn6MqWJ7ml2FT4B2c5TjRAkc8quSHBllflzcWM08LtKUl1JGI_H0EXrHhw-LjfPhtXQgBpZ0u40/s1600-h/P3030030.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih5etfKy4w2a1s1Hiz00zLjEO3H4Wdm8AHjJYRg-pxMFpuDJoGdRG7KuqJ0VdZTWatXIn6MqWJ7ml2FT4B2c5TjRAkc8quSHBllflzcWM08LtKUl1JGI_H0EXrHhw-LjfPhtXQgBpZ0u40/s320/P3030030.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446399420103349218" /></a><br />We’re still in vacation country, and some of the cottages are extremely homey—check out the flowers and pool by this small cottage:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcC2nKuD5lS2u2nftSXxioS6GKHAZRREtgxdHBqw1vScobaRTggnMxHcbpgtxFTHmypb0-zeN7U1fXmCiFJURVa2wfMaNO4-0Wz6Id45paK8jFLyT0QWUfq9klstpF3NTRd0H16ZjJaRJm/s1600-h/P3030043.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcC2nKuD5lS2u2nftSXxioS6GKHAZRREtgxdHBqw1vScobaRTggnMxHcbpgtxFTHmypb0-zeN7U1fXmCiFJURVa2wfMaNO4-0Wz6Id45paK8jFLyT0QWUfq9klstpF3NTRd0H16ZjJaRJm/s320/P3030043.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446399652737561538" /></a><br />All around us were the snow-covered peaks of the Andes:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlSlnOndwIgv7EXITo-rvxyk0AShjEQeCQVitxa-ZslyH5Le8kGLDQMQpVmEj33jAePivEmuC3POTgzdz7kdKNn1GbSL3dwCz3p4GnLnMnM3merttZLEKL6p0lJO5M0Lne1tP7HMtJjhW/s1600-h/P3030052.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlSlnOndwIgv7EXITo-rvxyk0AShjEQeCQVitxa-ZslyH5Le8kGLDQMQpVmEj33jAePivEmuC3POTgzdz7kdKNn1GbSL3dwCz3p4GnLnMnM3merttZLEKL6p0lJO5M0Lne1tP7HMtJjhW/s320/P3030052.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446399817288831586" /></a><br />We passed farmers on horseback typically wearing either a large sombrero or a natty French beret:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOpXtPsdVCkQeN_6XLYdNvHiti2urAptOgIC7SYaL87pSBoEVA0OTe8sCCA4Sqe-3akeu9PxovzSsbm4m6EkfX334oxsRJeEl2K7gT5BEMPFqG6Cl-Z4lSILKWCaOhM4R778iiPAqxCfEr/s1600-h/P3030057.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOpXtPsdVCkQeN_6XLYdNvHiti2urAptOgIC7SYaL87pSBoEVA0OTe8sCCA4Sqe-3akeu9PxovzSsbm4m6EkfX334oxsRJeEl2K7gT5BEMPFqG6Cl-Z4lSILKWCaOhM4R778iiPAqxCfEr/s320/P3030057.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446397026077432274" /></a><br />As we approached Los Alerces National Park, the trees closed in over the dirt road, forming a canopy:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzDByiXa7-0vdvyn3nsdeC4zkntuy84T72G6z_ZLNdmXTNhBi_bVLkQ6w5PZKi2TQ-9WRdRnZHTR_3BgsW_-lWD3rMelyEOyPx1XIsRaAYOb7ye4rmTlcPT93oiT5iz7EeeeOgB8wOoeFW/s1600-h/P3030068.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzDByiXa7-0vdvyn3nsdeC4zkntuy84T72G6z_ZLNdmXTNhBi_bVLkQ6w5PZKi2TQ-9WRdRnZHTR_3BgsW_-lWD3rMelyEOyPx1XIsRaAYOb7ye4rmTlcPT93oiT5iz7EeeeOgB8wOoeFW/s320/P3030068.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446399982119900546" /></a><br />The park extends for roughly fifty miles and is dotted with streams and small farms within the park grounds:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyonkUyfHKyGRGD8mos6yoFM2Jk8yHi1ZUtI5xqb55Q-biJbfQyqRZO5U2dxBY-ZXIITXo-snhM8UjXKnaG5mJisp1ulxnmE8JkaWwEvipzIiMCasu6Wkow0yXIiui8qMVUf9B87TAJQ5E/s1600-h/P3030072.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyonkUyfHKyGRGD8mos6yoFM2Jk8yHi1ZUtI5xqb55Q-biJbfQyqRZO5U2dxBY-ZXIITXo-snhM8UjXKnaG5mJisp1ulxnmE8JkaWwEvipzIiMCasu6Wkow0yXIiui8qMVUf9B87TAJQ5E/s320/P3030072.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446400155019973074" /></a><br />Even though the road is rough and dusty. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlAd5WvqNuPbPyZj1stBvXMPjSvzuqHS0zu70v5ELV6RVYw0FUcO8qQOT9nyk9UiQHj3PVqYKOlFmjxad_2_iI_QPQzbBCn6FiA79HHa5rde-EGG48cEQeoHgBYLBJhDERMZDRIQahM3Bp/s1600-h/P3030091.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlAd5WvqNuPbPyZj1stBvXMPjSvzuqHS0zu70v5ELV6RVYw0FUcO8qQOT9nyk9UiQHj3PVqYKOlFmjxad_2_iI_QPQzbBCn6FiA79HHa5rde-EGG48cEQeoHgBYLBJhDERMZDRIQahM3Bp/s320/P3030091.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446400309965376674" /></a><br /> . . .here you can see that Roger and Vince are loving the ride:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitWlSBnn3yunXuy-x3GuK2Qow9DL-X6N_NH2ZIDADim7OiokSMLmDlXyDZvjmI3yD2I96ddlB7Ep0KWIScGzniE_Oe9SF59PjaGa83bhKknC307pl64i8m7yHLmki-_S3W2Ec6Abs1C4GR/s1600-h/P3030073.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitWlSBnn3yunXuy-x3GuK2Qow9DL-X6N_NH2ZIDADim7OiokSMLmDlXyDZvjmI3yD2I96ddlB7Ep0KWIScGzniE_Oe9SF59PjaGa83bhKknC307pl64i8m7yHLmki-_S3W2Ec6Abs1C4GR/s320/P3030073.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446400445060243106" /></a><br />We picked an excellent campsite, and Helge set up to film us putting up our tents:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu130cfAX2Dv-AdtBdIypNveuIH53Uaua-tgASY1JXdbiQ0DpI-i9ooev_XsHmyTgKXxJBYwlrv1d-nxHNCYt1WTRmfwwDSBDZ7uR2zKzamZxLO_nmpgNRJEzYvZsBJlhPfO19jUwo2qDH/s1600-h/P3030098.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu130cfAX2Dv-AdtBdIypNveuIH53Uaua-tgASY1JXdbiQ0DpI-i9ooev_XsHmyTgKXxJBYwlrv1d-nxHNCYt1WTRmfwwDSBDZ7uR2zKzamZxLO_nmpgNRJEzYvZsBJlhPfO19jUwo2qDH/s320/P3030098.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446400603224069762" /></a><br />We ended up with a beautiful campsite with our bikes very near our tents (the better to hear you with!):<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Yyn-T52MKgmZ6z4rEWBo7PjJrCDtORL_XvOv0vQKbetqcxH53TkBLVuAie8Ytqkh63KtVT_bWudtSs96CoyasPfuUZYZbgU5DuFAh7x2Vl7w_GJccGTNUUFkN49_4B7M34Pn1Uh-dD-H/s1600-h/P3030102.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Yyn-T52MKgmZ6z4rEWBo7PjJrCDtORL_XvOv0vQKbetqcxH53TkBLVuAie8Ytqkh63KtVT_bWudtSs96CoyasPfuUZYZbgU5DuFAh7x2Vl7w_GJccGTNUUFkN49_4B7M34Pn1Uh-dD-H/s320/P3030102.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446400766619687426" /></a><br />Here is the view from my tent:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiueiO7f33fSuw5z-Ld-Db-vbowajGepycXMeIGG8_rnFMBxs8kq2qaWTHOHdvCqP7Exhfwa6O_A8pnqylieX7YiLICn8wQj8Ao9kcyJCgTm9XkbzNi0Kq32HHFF8OAMg83cblDXKSOmvwo/s1600-h/P3030104.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiueiO7f33fSuw5z-Ld-Db-vbowajGepycXMeIGG8_rnFMBxs8kq2qaWTHOHdvCqP7Exhfwa6O_A8pnqylieX7YiLICn8wQj8Ao9kcyJCgTm9XkbzNi0Kq32HHFF8OAMg83cblDXKSOmvwo/s320/P3030104.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446400946297080610" /></a><br />Helge, the vegetarian, bought Roger and me a frozen chicken, and we hung it from a rope in the lake to thaw, drawing the attention of a hawk:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaeUf7IH5xz8m_EXGl_yjOHmhvgoV74xrddNzkccNFypIPe19UzTDZkjGAFZ-RV3l2axTGJk67DEBUmz2d058TrwrkQ4mjmK3htu9Sf3jteycAkVgExnCmyb9lgUqMdqLGDBQhiMKuxL5l/s1600-h/P3030117.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaeUf7IH5xz8m_EXGl_yjOHmhvgoV74xrddNzkccNFypIPe19UzTDZkjGAFZ-RV3l2axTGJk67DEBUmz2d058TrwrkQ4mjmK3htu9Sf3jteycAkVgExnCmyb9lgUqMdqLGDBQhiMKuxL5l/s320/P3030117.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446401112564297282" /></a><br />We caught Helge in a classic “conflict of interest” situation: he was trying to get a good shot of the hawk at the cost of our dinner. As a compromise, we removed the giblets, cooked them up for additional flavor and hung them from a low tree in order to bait the hawk and hopefully provide better photographs. We were all positioned on the ground, patiently waiting to get the spectacular shot, but even with its thumb-sized brain, the hawk did a quick risk/reward analysis and flew away. In the last administration, it would have been good to have someone as wise as the hawk in weighing risk/reward relationships.<br /><br />Roger and I split the chicken (the vegetarians ate potatoes and canned veggies—too bad for them).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKXMjyxkwxtWFxsjlhDw924zVcS1r0pvkHmzhPVWJBPnB1WIXALXudGP7MCk1vQsSnXmdyuB82fJH74oeHZCNcDs7DMDe7rjYE5ZJcKpi9iZe_h2_rq_191MM0ZPfBhzhrDvksYAo4X3Hp/s1600-h/P3030119.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKXMjyxkwxtWFxsjlhDw924zVcS1r0pvkHmzhPVWJBPnB1WIXALXudGP7MCk1vQsSnXmdyuB82fJH74oeHZCNcDs7DMDe7rjYE5ZJcKpi9iZe_h2_rq_191MM0ZPfBhzhrDvksYAo4X3Hp/s320/P3030119.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446401286504002818" /></a><br />Helge built a roaring fire with logs that are a foot in diameter. The fire burned throughout the night:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA1vvHJkPxJGfDbNh1hv5HW7H7wSuZxxNyUWRDRw1eU1yJ651M6uUMnPU2K_SXGMw8JRZNdDA8x1cITFJ7ejkN8kOTpy99MrOJpx9jnj21WXPAFpyY6S0NYORcV0INwaWD62ye8d2YY5tN/s1600-h/P3030129.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA1vvHJkPxJGfDbNh1hv5HW7H7wSuZxxNyUWRDRw1eU1yJ651M6uUMnPU2K_SXGMw8JRZNdDA8x1cITFJ7ejkN8kOTpy99MrOJpx9jnj21WXPAFpyY6S0NYORcV0INwaWD62ye8d2YY5tN/s320/P3030129.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446401444410919186" /></a><br />We slept extraordinarily well—much better than in a hotel or cabana.<br /><br /><strong><em>March 4</em></strong><br /><br />We got a rather late start in the morning – no coffee, no breakfast – and headed south to Puyugapi.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR8Myi9exNi0h_Z-QMcXVF3hG1yuWrDjc1gVbmLM6M6WrBCRIQP774QyzZzWj9o53XRai7jJ4JzlUCrta7v_BwvGeA4Q500C1AKF5FvgKs9vnaVp0b0vfS_sKeISD5TUu-94JtVSysxAYd/s1600-h/P3040131+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR8Myi9exNi0h_Z-QMcXVF3hG1yuWrDjc1gVbmLM6M6WrBCRIQP774QyzZzWj9o53XRai7jJ4JzlUCrta7v_BwvGeA4Q500C1AKF5FvgKs9vnaVp0b0vfS_sKeISD5TUu-94JtVSysxAYd/s320/P3040131+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446401658916748002" /></a><br />The road was a mix of extremely dusty and rocky dirt roads . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicgHD78Sh6GqLvs0RuvzGFjSPx9Whyphenhyphengp3gF03e_sQNRRrfc9w4gkPWxKnI01UIB0hQMUbEmCEoGZ-j8BbhhSyuX_KIs45Y6qd0HHEEyVYiEO6Ec84k_FYQgJVOqh24FVdg7_qbe9BWqNC5/s1600-h/P3040138+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicgHD78Sh6GqLvs0RuvzGFjSPx9Whyphenhyphengp3gF03e_sQNRRrfc9w4gkPWxKnI01UIB0hQMUbEmCEoGZ-j8BbhhSyuX_KIs45Y6qd0HHEEyVYiEO6Ec84k_FYQgJVOqh24FVdg7_qbe9BWqNC5/s320/P3040138+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446401827016064962" /></a><br />. . . and nicer dirt roads (where we could go up to 60 mph):<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyIgUG3Aai8eC0SEn42_1IO8cPJ2l19I-QZXYlnP-03H5PdjRbXapFFiNvI7v9UJ_ywH9qeiK4P2qv-eFU4_mwsoboeV5x5WadKgzvfPl0sSn86aPW7UI_3_E-0OmSZeFH85N7jCdnFw7b/s1600-h/P3040139+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyIgUG3Aai8eC0SEn42_1IO8cPJ2l19I-QZXYlnP-03H5PdjRbXapFFiNvI7v9UJ_ywH9qeiK4P2qv-eFU4_mwsoboeV5x5WadKgzvfPl0sSn86aPW7UI_3_E-0OmSZeFH85N7jCdnFw7b/s320/P3040139+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446401995316426658" /></a><br />We traveled through agricultural valleys. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIrtByl3KaDfXPSukNQ7EnJ0uEbRWnU4LHt6R-_LAZRgxsHm-J8NiymBXn-hpItfmpctNpkpHatSeQj5UbqMELXyS6CJg15kUo1xzNhstwKYXVOrkuvKXbxSzwMhhZVDodIsi08Rp5Aao/s1600-h/P3040141+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIrtByl3KaDfXPSukNQ7EnJ0uEbRWnU4LHt6R-_LAZRgxsHm-J8NiymBXn-hpItfmpctNpkpHatSeQj5UbqMELXyS6CJg15kUo1xzNhstwKYXVOrkuvKXbxSzwMhhZVDodIsi08Rp5Aao/s320/P3040141+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446402231849847922" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Blr0Bkxdslst54dPk1m9nyI_aw4ZoLN4jLeW5q1kN6p-2Ta7snQ6OSY6Cf6RHgtEHVzBPLMvt2I66M1GMUbxqiW0VKVijaJVSyaJIGOfCsMHtVwf63o5S8J-RLzwBauiPp68eKWuIG2h/s1600-h/P3040148+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Blr0Bkxdslst54dPk1m9nyI_aw4ZoLN4jLeW5q1kN6p-2Ta7snQ6OSY6Cf6RHgtEHVzBPLMvt2I66M1GMUbxqiW0VKVijaJVSyaJIGOfCsMHtVwf63o5S8J-RLzwBauiPp68eKWuIG2h/s320/P3040148+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446402153186957218" /></a><br />. . .with marginal grazing land:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Ghtk-MQFE8VRRk-rTIDLnr8UmdSMqitkCgjDEWU3hMgwkl1dMwQj_tkA9TC11jXl4H5EJ6AFYSyudP_O8wpoFEuc81ilr7gLc8Mv-yYus_zzZ9vnE-J_GuXTzWN6n5SasBjgVTyyqPqv/s1600-h/P3040158+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Ghtk-MQFE8VRRk-rTIDLnr8UmdSMqitkCgjDEWU3hMgwkl1dMwQj_tkA9TC11jXl4H5EJ6AFYSyudP_O8wpoFEuc81ilr7gLc8Mv-yYus_zzZ9vnE-J_GuXTzWN6n5SasBjgVTyyqPqv/s320/P3040158+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446402385031779506" /></a><br />We crossed back into Chile and met a couple of Swedes at lunch on a nine-month holiday, modestly sponsored by BMW. When they return to Sweden, they will go on a lecture circuit to BMW dealers to promote adventure motorcycling and were able to obtain a modest sponsorship, even though they had never been on an adventure trip before.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsX3egKIZMEkty51TrwXDRMxNeBscRPK4xfYpE73PFA5PkOZP6XdGfpZ7gialc4fzA-M5hs6e4JrVUmO_CLxKc-gHv4TJrIPBICotgA-QvkJumnIEctakaVRvVJNo3K5LeyVMcRiDUYGZV/s1600-h/P3040168+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsX3egKIZMEkty51TrwXDRMxNeBscRPK4xfYpE73PFA5PkOZP6XdGfpZ7gialc4fzA-M5hs6e4JrVUmO_CLxKc-gHv4TJrIPBICotgA-QvkJumnIEctakaVRvVJNo3K5LeyVMcRiDUYGZV/s320/P3040168+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446402561854564866" /></a><br />We stayed at a very nice youth hostel that had separate bedrooms but a shared bathroom. For a hostel it was a bit pricey: $60/person including breakfast. We met up with the Swedes for dinner, and motorcycle talk dominated the conversation.<br /><br />Here are a couple of rather poor photographs of a standard Chilean suspension bridge:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeC5Af9myl0EYg3aBL6_gASPH8pCRIRUgOAurnCMUBrSb6uQ9AJx-Yq1sYVreK1baDJ-mgud8bWRTTS7y6eRlHHi_sJ2euz6sE8pasOdA0MiQGzpC-mS1y9WuXalOWeykzUhj9Gp4eY0Ea/s1600-h/P3040174+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeC5Af9myl0EYg3aBL6_gASPH8pCRIRUgOAurnCMUBrSb6uQ9AJx-Yq1sYVreK1baDJ-mgud8bWRTTS7y6eRlHHi_sJ2euz6sE8pasOdA0MiQGzpC-mS1y9WuXalOWeykzUhj9Gp4eY0Ea/s320/P3040174+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446403726320140274" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMIJ7_sxa8wiDtqEXtRFSAALUPWfLMPqzKgMPmg4MU8z9B9vPW_yegxgtA-d2i1wnfuf0W4yT-8KznMJbz-dKeFzPHPMO1iNpg6GKT_M5ofjHrJrbCrvYo8cT-mKL4V1MbZ2hnNj2va4n3/s1600-h/P3040177+(2).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMIJ7_sxa8wiDtqEXtRFSAALUPWfLMPqzKgMPmg4MU8z9B9vPW_yegxgtA-d2i1wnfuf0W4yT-8KznMJbz-dKeFzPHPMO1iNpg6GKT_M5ofjHrJrbCrvYo8cT-mKL4V1MbZ2hnNj2va4n3/s320/P3040177+(2).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446403653710815842" /></a><br />The bridge looks efficient and cheap and has a significant span. We have seen several of these—it’s clearly a bridge built to a formula. A similar bridge would look excellent connecting Wendy Park to the development of the West Flats spanning the old channel of the Cuyahoga.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-7770528892612340562010-03-01T09:38:00.000-08:002010-03-01T10:06:13.130-08:00Day 52-56 – February 25-28<strong><em>Santiago, Chile to Los Angeles, Chile to Osorno, Chile<br />February 25-26</em></strong><br />We arrived in Santiago on Wednesday, February 24 and had planned to stay for one day but ended up staying for two. Our choice of one extra day allowed us to experience the 7th largest earthquake in recorded history, which struck in the very early hours of Saturday, the 27th. Prior to the earthquake adventure, we had some time to experience Santiago: <br /><br />On Thursday and Friday we toured the city, obtaining parts, fixing my video camera, and visiting the BMW dealer. At the dealership, we saw a device that protects your head from whiplash in the event you are thrown from your motorcycle:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBXfTvz01sClDspp5yYh_D4PhT6yWteszjwG_9iEmXO8P-NIU1Km0rGDpY9fgGVY0c2UxUKaplhMi34jwipth6YpbN4igAbRl-2S7C7y5OgXp9VCxGNsVUcq2U_cg31qOhGRowaMyRuxmO/s1600-h/P2260119.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBXfTvz01sClDspp5yYh_D4PhT6yWteszjwG_9iEmXO8P-NIU1Km0rGDpY9fgGVY0c2UxUKaplhMi34jwipth6YpbN4igAbRl-2S7C7y5OgXp9VCxGNsVUcq2U_cg31qOhGRowaMyRuxmO/s320/P2260119.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443723898561087634" /></a><br />We hung out with several cops during the day – here is the commander of the motorcycle police in Santiago, mock-arresting Roger.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAmd4vgj9Io0rshijICF4DlIV_xljpqFXetCQDjx2FHpGPV9kR6yCsZIZTaLiBFrZWwSqvT9RNgreyg8l0NqE84DKeHI4qFTjl6hdjAf3ekEArqB7HugpQc0p32C3bdndjmkT9kYYyPAS6/s1600-h/P2260120.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAmd4vgj9Io0rshijICF4DlIV_xljpqFXetCQDjx2FHpGPV9kR6yCsZIZTaLiBFrZWwSqvT9RNgreyg8l0NqE84DKeHI4qFTjl6hdjAf3ekEArqB7HugpQc0p32C3bdndjmkT9kYYyPAS6/s320/P2260120.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443724038301418066" /></a><br />I was able to pick up all the equipment I needed to repair various items: my POV camera, the sole of my motorcycle boot, and various nuts and bolts that had fallen off my bike. <br /><br />We toured the city, which was primarily filled with low-rise buildings. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic3UJLBZ9vsC2cP5uIwYbMvcNPUi7WEy9I2sZnrhIgbkw45cj4TKeDEgYOmrMyojGOwsBmHdOrMYtorkKsYFPVeGcTAr1e0BeALImpEtkEVdqEFbly8ETI58w5e8KtYryv7RdPx9CBd_wT/s1600-h/P2260123.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic3UJLBZ9vsC2cP5uIwYbMvcNPUi7WEy9I2sZnrhIgbkw45cj4TKeDEgYOmrMyojGOwsBmHdOrMYtorkKsYFPVeGcTAr1e0BeALImpEtkEVdqEFbly8ETI58w5e8KtYryv7RdPx9CBd_wT/s320/P2260123.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443724204325360594" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtFjfXNppSYIUreQlU3KG4MjSOx1Yaad54khRhk3SQbQl-b3_0Gf9hvWg2w5XuZYwZ0uOPexarWKSN_jF44Y5MGdyBdRlBAvUXOYykTxaynX7rxfZkMYbyDZ-fTtYB4g23B6HGhu1QUPHR/s1600-h/P2260098.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtFjfXNppSYIUreQlU3KG4MjSOx1Yaad54khRhk3SQbQl-b3_0Gf9hvWg2w5XuZYwZ0uOPexarWKSN_jF44Y5MGdyBdRlBAvUXOYykTxaynX7rxfZkMYbyDZ-fTtYB4g23B6HGhu1QUPHR/s320/P2260098.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443724155160168450" /></a><br />. . .with a smattering of high rises in the downtown area. This building is next to our hotel in the center of the city (note that the road through the center of the city is a parkway with 5 lanes in each direction, which comes in handy during earthquakes):<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLpOeGEE8QgbpZt4s80Jfl5nxX481IrEAW_jxwsCAOizaB0nXnSkIn9lZVrIiLRtrpT0rODWh5vho1o2Tq1sxZZZ3qtjCLYzbnl9QkzbTxfAC03Y0WlocVm9BGKZgdttlGoWfc3eEaK9MA/s1600-h/P2260099.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLpOeGEE8QgbpZt4s80Jfl5nxX481IrEAW_jxwsCAOizaB0nXnSkIn9lZVrIiLRtrpT0rODWh5vho1o2Tq1sxZZZ3qtjCLYzbnl9QkzbTxfAC03Y0WlocVm9BGKZgdttlGoWfc3eEaK9MA/s320/P2260099.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443724371190660674" /></a><br />The city center had shops designed for nearly everyone—this one would be a particular favorite of my daughters and anyone with a shoe fetish:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgSDI6E11evZk_jy3p0hTIUxfsPPZdT_sP25KCBGxSsTTTYmrTf1RAI453IjWVEhAgwo1ukVwEah_jF2tLC2bR6V-pVqcvZYaPpIlMoH66hfI5edrWNqSiGCHtUWdTHzUCVl014MdjuZcc/s1600-h/P2260125.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgSDI6E11evZk_jy3p0hTIUxfsPPZdT_sP25KCBGxSsTTTYmrTf1RAI453IjWVEhAgwo1ukVwEah_jF2tLC2bR6V-pVqcvZYaPpIlMoH66hfI5edrWNqSiGCHtUWdTHzUCVl014MdjuZcc/s320/P2260125.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443724494914964146" /></a><br /><strong>EARTHQUAKE</strong><br /><strong><em>February 27</em></strong><br />We went to bed on Friday night with a plan to wake up early and beat the traffic – meeting for breakfast at 7:00 a.m. and “clutches out” by 7:30 a.m.<br /><br />I slept fitfully and at 3:30 a.m. awoke to a creaking noise. I tried to get out of bed but was unable to stand and subsequently fell and conked my head on a piece of furniture. I then realized that we were experiencing a quake. We were on the 20th floor of the Crown Plaza hotel, a new modern hotel in downtown Santiago. (I previously experienced another earthquake at a downtown hotel in Tokyo and was rather embarrassed when I dashed into the hall in my bathrobe, only to discover that no one else was slightly concerned.) I briefly considered leaving the hotel but remembered how foolish I felt in Tokyo. <br /><br />I looked out over the city and the lights were still on and dazzling. But then suddenly all of the lights of the city went out at once. <br /><br />The oscillation of the building had an abnormal feeling, not like the mostly steady motion you feel in a sailboat in rough seas. This motion was jerky and non-rhythmic, erratic and discontinuous. I was amazed that this largely concrete building was able to survive the whiplashing effect compounded by the building’s height. <br /><br />Vincent banged on my door, dressed ready to ride, and said we should head downstairs immediately – all three of us initially said no, but we eventually joined him downstairs. This required running down twenty stories in the concrete inner stairway. (The electricity was off and of course the elevators weren’t working—although I cannot imagine anyone would be stupid enough to actually take the elevators).<br /><br />As we got nearer to the ground floor, cracks in the walls and separation in the concrete floors became visible:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5pkPXUO7-wfpfBPMx2UvYznW-Uo4o5gJzx9s60rziRG00ZdonvsZLv86jV9ZRgVvbKMomEvrU_F6_Q9qmiewjeHeMXny2rtHD40_DA8-wq8ShkPyVNLCN3HkQ3_qsPUqDR75QOEY6ntvS/s1600-h/P2270126.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5pkPXUO7-wfpfBPMx2UvYznW-Uo4o5gJzx9s60rziRG00ZdonvsZLv86jV9ZRgVvbKMomEvrU_F6_Q9qmiewjeHeMXny2rtHD40_DA8-wq8ShkPyVNLCN3HkQ3_qsPUqDR75QOEY6ntvS/s320/P2270126.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443724635317047970" /></a><br />We passed through areas filled with shattered glass. The hotel attendants were coaxing everyone to move quickly past these hazards:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTbT-7WF02Z_fNrwtSlTQbIpzg-RLsF1hpsmEZnKUfC5C3NbnMtN1F7iwZB2KJ3pCjQMLcjuBnOClCA2pXIvNpXaKXTrDxrKIcOhY3YP3ZHXWII0lMzYyTFXxYRYypp3ScIdvH0b9a4aML/s1600-h/P2270128.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTbT-7WF02Z_fNrwtSlTQbIpzg-RLsF1hpsmEZnKUfC5C3NbnMtN1F7iwZB2KJ3pCjQMLcjuBnOClCA2pXIvNpXaKXTrDxrKIcOhY3YP3ZHXWII0lMzYyTFXxYRYypp3ScIdvH0b9a4aML/s320/P2270128.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443724743525131970" /></a><br />As we exited the hotel, the street scene before us was a mix of revelers and disgusted hotel guests. . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl8bB_Y7Oz7FETQrflaKhPtOy-uzgXliUDFEYTliT3KP3BGkwF_biCNY2W7iZBoIHqrpC9ItPBJ9qB9YAzWQcq2SQ5TNZfYiS8OWCJAelcQipzLropzzdu6l-2Qn6-lQ1ph5bHYMrJ6hpi/s1600-h/P2270134.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl8bB_Y7Oz7FETQrflaKhPtOy-uzgXliUDFEYTliT3KP3BGkwF_biCNY2W7iZBoIHqrpC9ItPBJ9qB9YAzWQcq2SQ5TNZfYiS8OWCJAelcQipzLropzzdu6l-2Qn6-lQ1ph5bHYMrJ6hpi/s320/P2270134.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443724850233236354" /></a><br />. . .including this man in his long underwear:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiebO3bj72I3Ct1PeKQIktcVpcaY7WDlELmtbgtV68rYqcpp-DjMoI9Sxzahnbk4SnHz1QxOTUmYpKUppZOveavMFgVTkmbkXDv84LRQZLoptpTD_M8_0wh1qX5BjkbXAlTsX_xNWMrsK4/s1600-h/P2270130.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiebO3bj72I3Ct1PeKQIktcVpcaY7WDlELmtbgtV68rYqcpp-DjMoI9Sxzahnbk4SnHz1QxOTUmYpKUppZOveavMFgVTkmbkXDv84LRQZLoptpTD_M8_0wh1qX5BjkbXAlTsX_xNWMrsK4/s320/P2270130.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443724950490434226" /></a><br />The hotel staff was extraordinary—they raced around handing out robes for those caught unawares and scantily-clad:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtW7mbr2FZ9TMF8iUf56KC-Y8Otb-VJH_8xEpJhyalrFTh9m7Rd63pAdh3uFQ_1S8Tn3BM4vhYITLdnIPFHZBYdaiVvs7HsThWZekc1qycLBzoThsjPxnwzp5Mt55Z1vy9_WLTzo4-BEOe/s1600-h/P2270133.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtW7mbr2FZ9TMF8iUf56KC-Y8Otb-VJH_8xEpJhyalrFTh9m7Rd63pAdh3uFQ_1S8Tn3BM4vhYITLdnIPFHZBYdaiVvs7HsThWZekc1qycLBzoThsjPxnwzp5Mt55Z1vy9_WLTzo4-BEOe/s320/P2270133.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443725064421550498" /></a><br />By chance, I talked with a biologist who was knowledgeable about earthquakes and he estimated that we had just experienced about a 6 on the Richter scale. He mentioned that the aftershocks were always significantly less than the initial shock, generally 3-10 times less in absolute severity.<br /><br />So I decided to return my room and headed through the lobby where, as you would expect, informality was evident:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR6Wm-e68J5NZgAUOY5eY65FFvwZqPKx_xEK6gUPA4jxZtjh1F8sLQl4VRTJAKVXEZHN0DBuBWjDi0D0kzRNYpzoYDA5jTu86GccRMqxUqzdRQNQeb9F3nv6BM6NXWhBZ5bOEuu1-IhhJ5/s1600-h/P2270131.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR6Wm-e68J5NZgAUOY5eY65FFvwZqPKx_xEK6gUPA4jxZtjh1F8sLQl4VRTJAKVXEZHN0DBuBWjDi0D0kzRNYpzoYDA5jTu86GccRMqxUqzdRQNQeb9F3nv6BM6NXWhBZ5bOEuu1-IhhJ5/s320/P2270131.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443725173749628482" /></a><br />Vincent was napping on a couch . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5CxGSN5vX59wmryeUHaDne9MiH4kEmbmS78QaHjsE9B7XRedemQaOp74KBbMDHa6pWQCvS5P8AXdWaVjFLBHzfzIPHtnkv0j4uAsryTXcQ6qFIwu071OuDSWOxFNzvob3C9z6DjVng2WP/s1600-h/P2270138.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5CxGSN5vX59wmryeUHaDne9MiH4kEmbmS78QaHjsE9B7XRedemQaOp74KBbMDHa6pWQCvS5P8AXdWaVjFLBHzfzIPHtnkv0j4uAsryTXcQ6qFIwu071OuDSWOxFNzvob3C9z6DjVng2WP/s320/P2270138.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443725283325430786" /></a><br />. . . and a variety of others were hiding their scantily-clad bodies under hotel robes.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9cHjw744XPLjBNW1EErXFDsZ8yjfn3smze7egPmyOb4x97erRaCwaKhSIjjhBEBb-Iv_89WE6uJzdgGjXUjU5A22baC0iQaYARo77BD2L-YhJz8_O80GhKtPIdwl3bq3bizTuMJJm0ro1/s1600-h/P2270139.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9cHjw744XPLjBNW1EErXFDsZ8yjfn3smze7egPmyOb4x97erRaCwaKhSIjjhBEBb-Iv_89WE6uJzdgGjXUjU5A22baC0iQaYARo77BD2L-YhJz8_O80GhKtPIdwl3bq3bizTuMJJm0ro1/s320/P2270139.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443725388720745218" /></a><br />I trudged up the twenty floors and arrived in my room. I hung the hair dryer from the bathroom sink to watch it sway during the aftershocks – during one aftershock, the arc of the sway reached about five inches:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTpqiAP5GhFZVREln5Za0TFjxEytS5C3PgpEZ1oN23cpgj2y9FA0_2aJDDKB0aYggSi4RUDmD8ZeGewXuqusnaEf27tdJA4bwDzuJrZD2xzNV32VtNdgPD53yVsz6DLOPNgGiRH4J0XA_G/s1600-h/P2270142.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTpqiAP5GhFZVREln5Za0TFjxEytS5C3PgpEZ1oN23cpgj2y9FA0_2aJDDKB0aYggSi4RUDmD8ZeGewXuqusnaEf27tdJA4bwDzuJrZD2xzNV32VtNdgPD53yVsz6DLOPNgGiRH4J0XA_G/s320/P2270142.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443725589965755602" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDI9jyc_Aw7hnjmBINWoa4z-3iRJG7DzXOxjyyole5y4zUCnfaHlxM-cggLFeWwHYVaQLUS0y6ER9hEvxfpxb7V8Hn-5c4Ih8E_kFidfbPjvhPFd0iDf1TEtAPv0Wc57cPC33Q6uyjgzvE/s1600-h/P2270141.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDI9jyc_Aw7hnjmBINWoa4z-3iRJG7DzXOxjyyole5y4zUCnfaHlxM-cggLFeWwHYVaQLUS0y6ER9hEvxfpxb7V8Hn-5c4Ih8E_kFidfbPjvhPFd0iDf1TEtAPv0Wc57cPC33Q6uyjgzvE/s320/P2270141.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443725506744153218" /></a><br />This leads me to believe that the arc of the sway during the main earthquake would probably have been around two feet.<br /><br />We got our stuff together, carried it down the twenty floors and headed out of town. We saw very little damage in Santiago itself, although we didn’t go into the areas of old construction where we subsequently heard most of the damage had occurred.<br /><br />As we drove through downtown, things looked relatively normal, but as we got a bit further out of town we ran into large traffic jams – some were miles long:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEkgZnyegnWsXa2ygEo_cAODxQD5kftH8Uqss8Kpdc7q1PdCALAll28zspokOVtuqOUr5a8LX9zEeHMITQFzYpggbditMNf7y_9DbsBubWBJQpqFmrBjSfMkeVHpIHV59_piVlCqpY5X01/s1600-h/P2270151.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEkgZnyegnWsXa2ygEo_cAODxQD5kftH8Uqss8Kpdc7q1PdCALAll28zspokOVtuqOUr5a8LX9zEeHMITQFzYpggbditMNf7y_9DbsBubWBJQpqFmrBjSfMkeVHpIHV59_piVlCqpY5X01/s320/P2270151.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443725743598308914" /></a><br />To get away from the highway and the traffic jams, we went over land and took dirt roads into the mountains and away from the cities. We were fortunate that our GPS systems contain full maps of Chile and show the secondary roads as well as primary ones.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPbrVS77FCX_ogT0EcYvIrrNRgjE5ktyKEatrEfImjqtUtx8qhWLA5NsygjRA8wx33rZABstUVCDAONT74x_pxoUYNOl7O_oPtesIIxdLhm4AazrsQRciwoisebXJF60igpvY7W-6cEBZW/s1600-h/P2270154.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPbrVS77FCX_ogT0EcYvIrrNRgjE5ktyKEatrEfImjqtUtx8qhWLA5NsygjRA8wx33rZABstUVCDAONT74x_pxoUYNOl7O_oPtesIIxdLhm4AazrsQRciwoisebXJF60igpvY7W-6cEBZW/s320/P2270154.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443725840075538082" /></a><br />The road was extremely dusty, and large boulders were frequently in our path, obscured by the dust we kicked up. <br /><br />As we neared Los Angeles (115 kilometers southeast of Concepcion), there were mile-long lines for gasoline. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig4LD15qtpE8C98FVseZX_Hpw7MdLHWHZ0w4BoglYAjRyuz95drbt521AolgZYbW-pf-7vYT8y2mXD_wKa5w7HHa7ODPZNU_-UqnmJJEpbRhpTWiChr4Q1wUb_LGIyvUN0K0w360HiW_aE/s1600-h/P2270158.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig4LD15qtpE8C98FVseZX_Hpw7MdLHWHZ0w4BoglYAjRyuz95drbt521AolgZYbW-pf-7vYT8y2mXD_wKa5w7HHa7ODPZNU_-UqnmJJEpbRhpTWiChr4Q1wUb_LGIyvUN0K0w360HiW_aE/s320/P2270158.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443726357988264466" /></a><br />. . .downed bridges. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_X_DUiWPBtmX0de1AvSliTZuv5m6jNJu7oBk98GXTtgN5pTHG56pd8QG0Bc5yak1oGnGwocv8QhawSTWrP2kwl2JRL7aAIJ8Ar_b6RBXYmx6Jk6EZN0tQ0mk-j1Fc775F6RHm9RoLXmq/s1600-h/P2270160.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_X_DUiWPBtmX0de1AvSliTZuv5m6jNJu7oBk98GXTtgN5pTHG56pd8QG0Bc5yak1oGnGwocv8QhawSTWrP2kwl2JRL7aAIJ8Ar_b6RBXYmx6Jk6EZN0tQ0mk-j1Fc775F6RHm9RoLXmq/s320/P2270160.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443726546293483154" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPdxIi7lDndJKUAot5mN64eTRdMSbZtOPeIfsjrW7YuC5WCiQIqkJIhuHNg9P14J88Gv1jpRMVgnzm6rCg8j4pzaAo3qfmsXNh-_jwYUzPULFsFc8VysX73yVO40P5q40XqNsz0OnIr_B3/s1600-h/P2270183.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPdxIi7lDndJKUAot5mN64eTRdMSbZtOPeIfsjrW7YuC5WCiQIqkJIhuHNg9P14J88Gv1jpRMVgnzm6rCg8j4pzaAo3qfmsXNh-_jwYUzPULFsFc8VysX73yVO40P5q40XqNsz0OnIr_B3/s320/P2270183.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443726477345422690" /></a><br />. . .heaving roads. . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSqpvd7SlBi-sdL5KDZU5nrcoZa2gMTn4FeWtuYjTuZWWYYbL8pVQC7DgMkZ5WuKMdWu0NjCeAat51mzXu7XiVA21omshEqblu3pzOMuFAbLzhqXJTtZOXKCXSC3EWBp7G-bokQQy7t5PL/s1600-h/P2270172.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSqpvd7SlBi-sdL5KDZU5nrcoZa2gMTn4FeWtuYjTuZWWYYbL8pVQC7DgMkZ5WuKMdWu0NjCeAat51mzXu7XiVA21omshEqblu3pzOMuFAbLzhqXJTtZOXKCXSC3EWBp7G-bokQQy7t5PL/s320/P2270172.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443726662361117746" /></a><br />. . .and a spot where one lane of the road had disappeared into a ten-foot trench.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLSu1wOCPfSnlscmnxe9HdEE3JNj8bVhX7ee1fiHfXzZNzQn1kQxjJhyb8pl9IqyemHPenp1I3oxn6ykd2pSRy1x-zTSsweKqx0ILfxYMJJU1K8tpe5K4FZSPWhQgTbfpElhCSSS5WieWU/s1600-h/P2270171.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLSu1wOCPfSnlscmnxe9HdEE3JNj8bVhX7ee1fiHfXzZNzQn1kQxjJhyb8pl9IqyemHPenp1I3oxn6ykd2pSRy1x-zTSsweKqx0ILfxYMJJU1K8tpe5K4FZSPWhQgTbfpElhCSSS5WieWU/s320/P2270171.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443726801252985266" /></a><br />We passed a large distribution center that was ablaze, with no fire department in sight:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLxQuNhZN7UJzvQ_N3OmladW2-eRPTAUVOIqJSk6-1mLKsN9IwzuTrS9_gI4LeYS3NSU4dqEeqj-DMk_mHJ-4RxUWox5Dut_EMIl_qOXoxY5iWURrNRiUVswcZxrXTKsPRmJNQnNUslxUH/s1600-h/P2270179.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLxQuNhZN7UJzvQ_N3OmladW2-eRPTAUVOIqJSk6-1mLKsN9IwzuTrS9_gI4LeYS3NSU4dqEeqj-DMk_mHJ-4RxUWox5Dut_EMIl_qOXoxY5iWURrNRiUVswcZxrXTKsPRmJNQnNUslxUH/s320/P2270179.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443726919104873794" /></a><br />Most of the hotels in the small town of Los Angeles had been damaged and were not open for business. We found a place to stay that looked like it may have been used as a bordello. We scrounged some food at a convenience store, buying all of their canned sardines and two bottles of wine, and had an excellent dinner.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDS_-tggsA596KC8TyjQ6Fmg2uu3aTJKT-0qncToioPvqZKrT74hx7GDx-mgtMa3aIqTXxrNx875SJfB7KLVotjIKFvFgXSP-uKB3AEUrqiiWpE_GSjjr5814SLiaV8ZJFrBUEfvORiA-S/s1600-h/P2270184.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDS_-tggsA596KC8TyjQ6Fmg2uu3aTJKT-0qncToioPvqZKrT74hx7GDx-mgtMa3aIqTXxrNx875SJfB7KLVotjIKFvFgXSP-uKB3AEUrqiiWpE_GSjjr5814SLiaV8ZJFrBUEfvORiA-S/s320/P2270184.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443727033058694994" /></a><br /><strong><em>Sunday, February 28</em></strong><br />The next morning, we got up early and passed a huge line of trucks waiting for fuel:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpkG_zQJ8K9Hcyp58zFY147FpiKpo_vE2k_TRTnFrICnRTncxLVT_RGBcc8gc28biWiZfv_rx6atCtyYHXugFqatS5-_d1KEdS0NlGdC1BU1VsWFfkACPf9E3E84x4q9J1d5pro8GWWS5O/s1600-h/P2280188.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpkG_zQJ8K9Hcyp58zFY147FpiKpo_vE2k_TRTnFrICnRTncxLVT_RGBcc8gc28biWiZfv_rx6atCtyYHXugFqatS5-_d1KEdS0NlGdC1BU1VsWFfkACPf9E3E84x4q9J1d5pro8GWWS5O/s320/P2280188.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443727130496287634" /></a><br />But having arrived early, we were able to pop into the car line and get fuel immediately. There was a great deal of road damage, but with our motorcycles we could often get by where others could not.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7GcZDXitUp3CVglIiNS6V7FEkpjHPOC3WUsgKdS5n4TxsIVOPcZ47mSmwM-ackpd7fNeXr2EUQqZCFaO6t7AYR-nr3LMtUNRbHFGCsH1ks6B08RNTHHqKufpNfyJTZYzghOshwZ6KcVdX/s1600-h/P2280192.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7GcZDXitUp3CVglIiNS6V7FEkpjHPOC3WUsgKdS5n4TxsIVOPcZ47mSmwM-ackpd7fNeXr2EUQqZCFaO6t7AYR-nr3LMtUNRbHFGCsH1ks6B08RNTHHqKufpNfyJTZYzghOshwZ6KcVdX/s320/P2280192.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443727751389367698" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixvpl9jLPPH92j9DnqCO6scaFXgRjAZiHFH_tdA2TJAo8FXB_b9FUFZbjD5wfY48wO3hRO-sq_NkS4iiHf5esyvDwBsrVKRjy1vW9TtMAUWYB2IS8xudcZD72CLRfExhd4AHJdgQh5fS3x/s1600-h/P2280195.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixvpl9jLPPH92j9DnqCO6scaFXgRjAZiHFH_tdA2TJAo8FXB_b9FUFZbjD5wfY48wO3hRO-sq_NkS4iiHf5esyvDwBsrVKRjy1vW9TtMAUWYB2IS8xudcZD72CLRfExhd4AHJdgQh5fS3x/s320/P2280195.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443727682670510610" /></a><br />All of the concrete bridges we saw had some sort of damage. Some had fallen completely, and others had crumpled expansion joints; in those cases, the bridge stayed in place, resting on the abutment, but the ground had moved, crushing the expansion joints. <br /><br />This poor truck driver was passing under a pedestrian bridge as the quake was occurring. He felt a fluttering and thought it was the wind, until the bridge struck the top of his vehicle. He survived without a scratch:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_fU1sFzvP7UzsqAs8LsFeSg3sJIEbWSNrK4RSl2CFwFyRFAfR1rvw17WDa-fzR7vqPpYQXEGjLEfTF0CZjMUvwGXJ_4nEEvvJTAxw8hCoE4PG_rn2bfx8uhCrfdjCTUhAfaQnKSc378Vw/s1600-h/P2280207.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_fU1sFzvP7UzsqAs8LsFeSg3sJIEbWSNrK4RSl2CFwFyRFAfR1rvw17WDa-fzR7vqPpYQXEGjLEfTF0CZjMUvwGXJ_4nEEvvJTAxw8hCoE4PG_rn2bfx8uhCrfdjCTUhAfaQnKSc378Vw/s320/P2280207.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443727879473039330" /></a><br />Bridges like this railroad bridge, made of steel, are more complicated to engineer and build, but the steel gives them ductility that provides a lot of latitude when the ground is moving around it:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZrLCmGC-xYhgA5rh2jiDpxHPVb8_oExePAv33IES9VIKCuVQvksnutWuL09E8X-3GrcTPkoUxt1LsBLfmd50uoMMfbEJpiRBu-2Xr3Ysc7LQjmlPu7KRL1ptCgc3NdCaXn7J_o6os6h5D/s1600-h/P2280201.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZrLCmGC-xYhgA5rh2jiDpxHPVb8_oExePAv33IES9VIKCuVQvksnutWuL09E8X-3GrcTPkoUxt1LsBLfmd50uoMMfbEJpiRBu-2Xr3Ysc7LQjmlPu7KRL1ptCgc3NdCaXn7J_o6os6h5D/s320/P2280201.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443728025700169730" /></a><br />Astonished by the effects of the earthquake, it was difficult to concentrate on our surroundings. I tried to take moments to notice that we were traveling through beautiful country with Ohio-sized large farms. Elsewhere, the topography looked much like New Hampshire, hilly with lots of trees – the country is indeed beautiful.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPN7dPbPIrmJueO10Egfj1X7RZvubzlyWHdiXgX_pgw-JjxZYbU2KlSyz_HPqt022w7YBF3lPoS8D4LIf0mtwyO4Z8XLKrgtjTIJbc-Ob2TruF22Lww-xl_OQhW4Aj-neUa732x4SMXuDF/s1600-h/P2280202.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPN7dPbPIrmJueO10Egfj1X7RZvubzlyWHdiXgX_pgw-JjxZYbU2KlSyz_HPqt022w7YBF3lPoS8D4LIf0mtwyO4Z8XLKrgtjTIJbc-Ob2TruF22Lww-xl_OQhW4Aj-neUa732x4SMXuDF/s320/P2280202.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443728216384768994" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP0g5ZGx4Rbh_C-tkv4Ws7uWFuhG0G0ar21I9I9ktx1DuPnQPs-i0vGAybljDr4AXSRBM2ye7YWd2iQx8J4K6cNRgWhfLLWC1fVmr9JSVT5xiEhiOfl2S99GoU9BSivPV8LOc7YjCMU9SG/s1600-h/P2280208.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP0g5ZGx4Rbh_C-tkv4Ws7uWFuhG0G0ar21I9I9ktx1DuPnQPs-i0vGAybljDr4AXSRBM2ye7YWd2iQx8J4K6cNRgWhfLLWC1fVmr9JSVT5xiEhiOfl2S99GoU9BSivPV8LOc7YjCMU9SG/s320/P2280208.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443728146419778466" /></a><br />We arrived in Osorno, 100 kilometers from the Argentine border, and had a moment to reflect on our experience. Our challenges are not yet over—finding gasoline is the major concern. The gas stations cannot get gasoline because the trucks do not have the fuel to get the trucks south.<br /><br />On a per capita basis, Chile is the richest country in South America and has the technology and the means to clean up this mess. Nicaragua, on the other hand, is still struggling to fix the problems from their earthquake a number of years ago.<br /><br />At our hotel in Osorno, I ran into several doctors with associations with the Cleveland Clinic: Dr. James Lehman, an 83 year-old plastic surgeon from Akron Children’s and a close friend of Dr. Frank Papay’s; and C.J. Langevin, a plastic surgeon Fellow who worked with Dr. Frank Papay and Dr. Walter Maurer – another motorcycle fanatic. They spent a two-week stint in Concepcion and told us a harrowing story about crossing the Bio-Bio bridge moments before it collapsed and subsequently sleeping bundled on the street for two nights for fear of building collapse. <br /><br /><br />We are wondering what we should do to commemorate this extraordinary event—our first thought was to get a tattoo (we are still determining what it should say). Our other thought was to get earrings. We picked up some of the glass from the fancy chandelier in our hotel— wouldn’t that make a nice earring (perhaps Heather Moore could carve something on it to immortalize this event?).<br /><br />Tomorrow we will cross back into Argentina.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-66932332718011738352010-02-27T18:15:00.000-08:002010-02-27T18:50:38.175-08:00FEBRUARY 27 (P.M.) - LOS ANGELES, CHILEMarge spoke briefly with Dan this evening via satellite phone and also spoke with Helge's wife, Karen, to provide the following update.<br /><br />Dan, Helge, Vincent and Roger road approximately 330 miles today over what I'm sure was some extraordinarily rough terrain and without the assistance of bridges. They stopped for the night at a bungalow in Los Angeles, Chile. They ate sardines, crackers, and other motorcycle snack items and the bungalow owners gave them two bottles of wine, in place of unavailable water. They have no electricity and are still unable to get a signal on their cell phones.<br /> <br />At this time their plan for tomorrow is to head south to Osorno, Chile (approximately 250 miles) where they will pick up some new tires for the bikes. They then plan to head east through the Andes and into Argentina. <br /><br />More details will be posted as they become available.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-27380089229583055292010-02-27T09:36:00.000-08:002010-02-27T09:42:05.885-08:00FEBRUARY 27 - UPDATE FROM SANTIAGO, CHILEDan's wife, Marge, received a phone call from a relative in Hong Kong @ 4:00 a.m. this morning with news of the earthquake that centered about 200 miles south of Santiago, Chile this morning.<br /><br />Approximately 1/2 hour later Marge was able to reach Dan at his hotel in Santiago (they were using a backup generator) and confirmed that he and his group are all OK. They planned to pack up their gear and head out as soon as possible.<br /><br />We will post updates on their situation as further information becomes available.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-28394263031712276252010-02-26T09:35:00.000-08:002010-02-26T10:20:49.693-08:00Day 45-51 - February 18-24<strong><em>Day 45 – February 18<br /><br />Potosi, Bolivia to Tupiza, Bolivia</em></strong><br />We spent the morning in Potosi at a museum whose name translates to “The House of Money.” It was a mint used by the early Spaniards to coin silver before sending it back to Spain (after extracting it from the poor Incas). The museum’s collection—which was loaded with Christian paintings, among many other things—was a schizophrenic catch-all of artifacts donated by locals hoping to fill the big, empty building. We were given a tour by a guide who spoke with a thick accent and, as is not uncommon here, freely displayed her anti-American attitude. The rolling mill that rolled the thick 2.5” billets of silver down to 1/8” was the most interesting part of the museum. Here is the gear reduction system for the mill – the gears are made out of wood:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi35arJ6xsOib746ZfzG7VLqyw8FeNQnpX77VGmgY1OeoHZ78_nAD5OGoYHPxM_byFRxzpu_2ECjJslOm4OtEJ95s2hHqNE2Hc2L631QXLD3QcQzMy_Z30XPnPCY20QrOw896hhxzLCW6wo/s1600-h/DSC05786.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi35arJ6xsOib746ZfzG7VLqyw8FeNQnpX77VGmgY1OeoHZ78_nAD5OGoYHPxM_byFRxzpu_2ECjJslOm4OtEJ95s2hHqNE2Hc2L631QXLD3QcQzMy_Z30XPnPCY20QrOw896hhxzLCW6wo/s320/DSC05786.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442608429016824834" /></a><br />Each mill was set progressively tighter, and each bar of silver would go through twelve mills until it reached the proper thickness for minting into coins. There were approximately twelve donkeys or mules in the basement providing power. Here I am, assuming the role of the donkey (no jokes please – that would be too easy):<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0iGSJnn-3IRaZbxUnOtGDA_kw5yspvVxnfeKP98Aqig-haGJNlniQxWWgwAV7e8GXnS3VxHCPm4C265XUHVjcIlbo_6aJuy2ivGAGx-w4MN7pfMJBESZGV68Zd0t8SgU_A2s1xDvTkcUQ/s1600-h/DSC05788.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0iGSJnn-3IRaZbxUnOtGDA_kw5yspvVxnfeKP98Aqig-haGJNlniQxWWgwAV7e8GXnS3VxHCPm4C265XUHVjcIlbo_6aJuy2ivGAGx-w4MN7pfMJBESZGV68Zd0t8SgU_A2s1xDvTkcUQ/s320/DSC05788.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442608653031276370" /></a><br />The wreck of one of the large Spanish ships was found in the last fifteen or twenty years off the Florida Keys, and the guide snidely remarked that the Americans kept the treasure and only returned a few coins for their museum.<br /><br />Walking back to the hotel, we browsed through an interesting supermarket that was basically a collection of booths (many offering the same items) in a very large building. Business was thriving here, but I was struck by how inefficient this market was from a labor standpoint; nonetheless, it was still much more efficient than the roadside markets we’ve seen.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1jzi976tham_ue8oCkTkxAx6QeUFaYvdVAnTYrMZrxqH0wjLJKvjfTrwgH5Z9YfXM9cjj_TLJKhEaYdD1olSDJLWPuPmlda2faqiGYz-69ZnPo-NvEyyGq46j3HzIe60rpGjHtKxYPUF7/s1600-h/DSC05796.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1jzi976tham_ue8oCkTkxAx6QeUFaYvdVAnTYrMZrxqH0wjLJKvjfTrwgH5Z9YfXM9cjj_TLJKhEaYdD1olSDJLWPuPmlda2faqiGYz-69ZnPo-NvEyyGq46j3HzIe60rpGjHtKxYPUF7/s320/DSC05796.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442609165362603778" /></a><br />Within the market were various snack bars . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDfoDq2Ayl04OEsPI8vNRSuuyH_oIgwNZC6onD9XhTGbJzSoUuY-ipbsOIr6o5E8eg3lbiRep6G0gID6DauGTqzAraKf_ferVzNexBhgcgKCZmEJCcXmJilszUzoUIa8RWLOyzjcZyfIyx/s1600-h/DSC05798.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDfoDq2Ayl04OEsPI8vNRSuuyH_oIgwNZC6onD9XhTGbJzSoUuY-ipbsOIr6o5E8eg3lbiRep6G0gID6DauGTqzAraKf_ferVzNexBhgcgKCZmEJCcXmJilszUzoUIa8RWLOyzjcZyfIyx/s320/DSC05798.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442609458790354130" /></a><br />…and various staples you could purchase in bulk:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge1tseWzs2aOZ334BL9OruEjfDixAKEegnCQCDCdhBozv4_A3brTbqxr9ae0r4Ng7Osm3-ZVDeU2L53d8D88KhP4gg1rPt-ZjI5ff5QNSbNgUWoFKOEybaeFuGyRGQzH84UPga6W_H3hJ1/s1600-h/DSC05799.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge1tseWzs2aOZ334BL9OruEjfDixAKEegnCQCDCdhBozv4_A3brTbqxr9ae0r4Ng7Osm3-ZVDeU2L53d8D88KhP4gg1rPt-ZjI5ff5QNSbNgUWoFKOEybaeFuGyRGQzH84UPga6W_H3hJ1/s320/DSC05799.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442609572976932802" /></a><br />As we left town, we saw the city sanitation workers attempting to keep the road clean . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsJK26GCLeU84v6KsWbIhDF9YtOh_SqSRzdp-jxTwCSuxvsbHLqUOpmUTbTF9d5XV5XePjlq7Dn5v1uoPFrWsVDknZbRrvzPTb4wZ3_HdGEIR68JyGkNq3RMu2FxV8cvxCXItz_mfKWj_y/s1600-h/DSC05801.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsJK26GCLeU84v6KsWbIhDF9YtOh_SqSRzdp-jxTwCSuxvsbHLqUOpmUTbTF9d5XV5XePjlq7Dn5v1uoPFrWsVDknZbRrvzPTb4wZ3_HdGEIR68JyGkNq3RMu2FxV8cvxCXItz_mfKWj_y/s320/DSC05801.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442609691632740994" /></a><br />. . . which was only a slight improvement over the vultures we saw dining on a dog in a town square three weeks ago in Peru.<br /><br />We drove east along nasty roads towards Tupiza – we experienced just about every condition you can imagine. First there was red mud (slippery-slidey), then dust, then more rain. We crossed some streams – one of which appeared too deep for the motorcycles – but we all made it through. There was so much spray that water got up my sleeves! I was quite surprised that the engines did not stall out; apparently, the intake is comparatively small with a filter and air box through which water can flow without getting into the intake of the engine.<br /><br />We arrived in Tupiza to find it filled with tourists – mostly young people. We met several young people from Canada and several from Colorado and other US locations. We didn’t understand the attraction of this small village until we met a young man who explained that this is where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid met their demise at the hands of the Bolivian Army. Another person said that the attraction was the horseback riding. My suspicion is that the attraction of this town might have to do with the ease of obtaining some sort of controlled substance here. I have no proof of this, but I have heard that the policy on illegal drugs in Bolivia is fairly loose – Morales, the president of Bolivia, was active in the trade associations related to growing coca – a key ingredient of cocaine. <br /><br /><strong><em>Day 46 - February 19<br /><br />Tupiza, Bolivia to Salta, Argentina</em></strong><br />We got up at 5:00 a.m. while it was still dark and saw a youthful crowd returning home from the previous night’s carousing activities. One young lady we had spoken with the day before was sheepishly returning to her room (the walk of shame) dressed only in a towel! Another young man from Colorado vividly described to us his night of debauchery. <br /><br />Cars arriving after us had blocked our exit, and it wasn’t until after daybreak that we were finally able to obtain the keys to the cars that were blocking us in.<br /><br />Our ride today was 350 kilometers, the first third of which is under construction. The road evolved into a single lane and was extremely dusty, sandy, and (in the good parts) gravelly. Competing for the single lane of this road were huge double-decker buses and heavy trucks. It was virtually impossible to pass and required patience, courage, foolhardiness and luck to take on these vehicles. The dust almost certainly trashed my Sony single-lens camera. No one wanted to be passed because it meant breathing in more dust – we abandoned the polite manners we previously displayed on the smooth highways. There were also a number of aggressive drivers that would shift towards you if you attempted to pass them.<br /><br />The second section of the road was straight flat desert, which made up for the overly exciting first segment of the day. <br /><br />The third section wound up a mountain pass through a beautiful rainforest on a one-lane road with traffic moving in both directions – fortunately, there were no trucks to dodge, but the hairpin turns were exciting.<br /><br />The border crossing took several hours and required more patience than we had remaining: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7jTq1dvhRkAaFA2NJMYrrzTIhfh5WTlh1TZIU3mMLqxTkBZKaNJwMe-U3ez10PgEVji9Ve0maNUn5OotGU-yT5s2qpsajF_dVBLpfERala53YIxhoz0ucqh1npnaqQmloCq-b2t_L5F5/s1600-h/P2190691.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7jTq1dvhRkAaFA2NJMYrrzTIhfh5WTlh1TZIU3mMLqxTkBZKaNJwMe-U3ez10PgEVji9Ve0maNUn5OotGU-yT5s2qpsajF_dVBLpfERala53YIxhoz0ucqh1npnaqQmloCq-b2t_L5F5/s320/P2190691.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442610311277430370" /></a><br />There was a dramatic difference between Bolivia and Argentina – the roads in Argentina were in excellent condition with wide shoulders on each side and no trash. There was also a noticeable difference in the quality of the farms and the prosperity of the people. <br /><br />Salta is a beautiful city and was a wonderful introduction to Argentina. We stayed in Salta for several days to decompress.<br /><br /><br /><strong><em>Day 47 - February 20<br /><br />Salta, Argentina</em></strong><br />We spent the day in Salta and spent a great deal of time on our bikes, first cleansing them of the incredible amount of dirt they’d accumulated.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9O6ZnzJohHtDIuzmzbNKsUSOESK61LJfHng7gE0YAfCf_jvw0izitBpsiVD52D18qinPkkR8_ypwl3hKPUb4gynNIB93S18zXBs6f5HtkjMxj5aracQ9nnVbiS9ENCrIwQZMM9DmKVPPE/s1600-h/P2200699.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9O6ZnzJohHtDIuzmzbNKsUSOESK61LJfHng7gE0YAfCf_jvw0izitBpsiVD52D18qinPkkR8_ypwl3hKPUb4gynNIB93S18zXBs6f5HtkjMxj5aracQ9nnVbiS9ENCrIwQZMM9DmKVPPE/s320/P2200699.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442610635492587746" /></a><br />While we were washing the bikes, we watched a large procession of men and women in Argentine gaucho outfits parading into the city center for a festival celebrating the victory in The Battle of Salta, fought on February 20, 1813. Salta was the retaining wall against the Spaniards, who tried to enter these lands from the north. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh79-A_rPe5ssBFtCmzafW-7FhsS3cOyEwZkDAIELjUTq3R0UW4hulcdOqCUG1uLNOAj-TG3egfVBDYWefXm_ruD3NeX4FvZZSon5WypsaF_gR5KLniC6ws0z-_pBopE4C-FIDpS42cV1Hb/s1600-h/P2200705.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh79-A_rPe5ssBFtCmzafW-7FhsS3cOyEwZkDAIELjUTq3R0UW4hulcdOqCUG1uLNOAj-TG3egfVBDYWefXm_ruD3NeX4FvZZSon5WypsaF_gR5KLniC6ws0z-_pBopE4C-FIDpS42cV1Hb/s320/P2200705.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442610848516182594" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0WAMyRm1PNROl8phS16_HL8K8DT-Ov__NUhBgNjMWXUlDaW0jTtr9ok8hejZ_VR8hzFPfilEMlSj6m2kbbjQRs17ieDLbY0lNGtsF4JA5D__zSo6R66ZqWeV5sA-yuhmJ5HHncY4Mk5Ga/s1600-h/P2200704.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0WAMyRm1PNROl8phS16_HL8K8DT-Ov__NUhBgNjMWXUlDaW0jTtr9ok8hejZ_VR8hzFPfilEMlSj6m2kbbjQRs17ieDLbY0lNGtsF4JA5D__zSo6R66ZqWeV5sA-yuhmJ5HHncY4Mk5Ga/s320/P2200704.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442610783492831122" /></a><br />The wide rawhide in front of their legs was intended to protect them from thorns.<br /><br />We then proceeded to a shop to change the oil in the bikes. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy4v9z2pyDnb2rEd5g4r2gdqISyt5B5R-K8hQ8Rg7O-s9Sj0sP-SACFBzsSPO0iQCKeZ6b9538VYkDsAwvHRAtMOft4LFhMSBcz_zTXnqB65kOOTQNs03_ckWZsbuv7Z3erSeT4aMUPcOX/s1600-h/P2200706.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy4v9z2pyDnb2rEd5g4r2gdqISyt5B5R-K8hQ8Rg7O-s9Sj0sP-SACFBzsSPO0iQCKeZ6b9538VYkDsAwvHRAtMOft4LFhMSBcz_zTXnqB65kOOTQNs03_ckWZsbuv7Z3erSeT4aMUPcOX/s320/P2200706.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442611011864895906" /></a><br />. . .and made a real mess out of this nice man’s shop.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1jWmd5-y0U5YnjOGTtqxjAO8KCk5ipR6d600oxa22m2VtqqEnpphlDegAx1papmCRpOsljI6AiD0cTXueOrWfa_grbFKz-sAqF999auE0Ch5bDMIhIR4bABq8oz1fCaGU6nlkrBmwFI3A/s1600-h/P2200712.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1jWmd5-y0U5YnjOGTtqxjAO8KCk5ipR6d600oxa22m2VtqqEnpphlDegAx1papmCRpOsljI6AiD0cTXueOrWfa_grbFKz-sAqF999auE0Ch5bDMIhIR4bABq8oz1fCaGU6nlkrBmwFI3A/s320/P2200712.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442611147871199362" /></a><br />He had just installed a compressed natural gas fuel system in his car:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii1PWjA732QifQiul2OUNXJmTjsU-db-1BuK0iyCGM36BIXsStYN7II6RisQ7G1gy3V8jJgmVxfDxRytHAv2rOk7ep7xAMbiWIFjIJPNHbmrcMBL42_Iowo71D8PJY8JJxn9JwjYpvcfv8/s1600-h/P2200710.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii1PWjA732QifQiul2OUNXJmTjsU-db-1BuK0iyCGM36BIXsStYN7II6RisQ7G1gy3V8jJgmVxfDxRytHAv2rOk7ep7xAMbiWIFjIJPNHbmrcMBL42_Iowo71D8PJY8JJxn9JwjYpvcfv8/s320/P2200710.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442611324517881874" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-48jsHQ9OLImWtxdj-QTbEFxOnrwcPs5g8a_Cas1QUaSTcm0lneChT5NC9adKxDlUC4TDQrRsoGCI2PwFr5QwIuF9WCgDq5RBynOgn_yl4NlUlKI4v2htMDddJAyJGqTL_cl8_5WEwT0_/s1600-h/P2200711.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-48jsHQ9OLImWtxdj-QTbEFxOnrwcPs5g8a_Cas1QUaSTcm0lneChT5NC9adKxDlUC4TDQrRsoGCI2PwFr5QwIuF9WCgDq5RBynOgn_yl4NlUlKI4v2htMDddJAyJGqTL_cl8_5WEwT0_/s320/P2200711.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442611270263938002" /></a><br />It’s a carbureted car, so it didn’t have the complexity of the system we are building in Cleveland – it only has one natural gas inlet into the manifold. But it works similarly to ours – it starts on gasoline and, when the engine is warm enough, switches to natural gas with the heat of the engine heating up the natural gas as it decompresses. He installed it all by himself and was very excited to tell us all about it. In the cities here, all of the gas stations also have natural gas – but not in the country. Here is what the natural gas pumps look like:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFZxtRba8I63q0F_nB3qOb0b1nAGi1DUFKHMHRfk3bYgKQetqury0NHaCcRXgVkRWEcT5vLY9sJ7NEU3Y9aHZv-xX9CLJp4yQfChGFGFjJ28YkExe6EDyKHZjYZYDTBl_2e7ry3EBEKtF5/s1600-h/P2210716.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFZxtRba8I63q0F_nB3qOb0b1nAGi1DUFKHMHRfk3bYgKQetqury0NHaCcRXgVkRWEcT5vLY9sJ7NEU3Y9aHZv-xX9CLJp4yQfChGFGFjJ28YkExe6EDyKHZjYZYDTBl_2e7ry3EBEKtF5/s320/P2210716.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442611500842019826" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjXgOvkLmNsFNutX5_2PwkQp5_sXJQuxhxllhB23KYMfUdeKXcg5BuZ6GjZi1XM1I4Sy8dTvJVHbeFST4TBNwc_tl54-HhWx7Q8ikayot-FGrs7b2eUKp-onuUoVhPwbWueN_tiNR3FcCQ/s1600-h/P2210717.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjXgOvkLmNsFNutX5_2PwkQp5_sXJQuxhxllhB23KYMfUdeKXcg5BuZ6GjZi1XM1I4Sy8dTvJVHbeFST4TBNwc_tl54-HhWx7Q8ikayot-FGrs7b2eUKp-onuUoVhPwbWueN_tiNR3FcCQ/s320/P2210717.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442611452082098946" /></a><br />The interesting part about this guy’s system is the math. He bought his kit for $700 and spends only $1/day on natural gas compared to the $6/day he previously spent on gasoline. He is obviously delighted with it. There are many sources for natural gas kits in Argentina, because all the urban gas stations sell natural gas fuel and the difference in price is dramatic.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6NGiSQX4ZDZ9p8vpdMLGb1ACWxAiZ2EMlObyKZ-dDI3Im-vHy20EHNAlqYhzBnPWmlSrBlbcM6XFaP_YHds819Wi1nAIbbwL4mUCmyIxTTygdOW4lT1NS-hcR3L2vQanx4MLJ5KodqG3c/s1600-h/P2210719.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6NGiSQX4ZDZ9p8vpdMLGb1ACWxAiZ2EMlObyKZ-dDI3Im-vHy20EHNAlqYhzBnPWmlSrBlbcM6XFaP_YHds819Wi1nAIbbwL4mUCmyIxTTygdOW4lT1NS-hcR3L2vQanx4MLJ5KodqG3c/s320/P2210719.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442611618010962754" /></a><br />Our natural gas system does not require a filling station and will be introduced in 2.5 months.<br /><br />The next step was changing out the tires on the bikes. We were able to find both a front and back tire for my bike – my back tire was totally bald (the front was not necessarily needed – but it is recommended to have a matching pair). The others kept their knobby tires on the front and got road tires for the back. These tires will tide us over until we are able to obtain new sets of knobbies further on in Chile.<br /><br /><br /><strong><em>Day 48 - February 21<br /><br />Salta, Argentina to Camp Londres</em></strong><br />We got an early start out of Salta. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjiLXxv3ry0VIok3Ey1lS_54O39faYrqE9mXQ2QjRJykaBqhWsExO_KDxBS8XqDWH4DsAFkYO6KwjFGqkftJ3Bs_6WwBFhF54NKcTwbq-g-wLC8xGFsknXP2adOWq-ZyYrXd2PbpRSBvOX/s1600-h/P2210714.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjiLXxv3ry0VIok3Ey1lS_54O39faYrqE9mXQ2QjRJykaBqhWsExO_KDxBS8XqDWH4DsAFkYO6KwjFGqkftJ3Bs_6WwBFhF54NKcTwbq-g-wLC8xGFsknXP2adOWq-ZyYrXd2PbpRSBvOX/s320/P2210714.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442611903080589810" /></a><br />. . .and drove on a well-maintained highway through some beautifully fertile areas.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrKkAJMs5Z-zi_xqOGee83FtbiyRISvv31knqbMw1xGw-HsEO3X9k5EHM37txP72FuafJvOEiWieQzE2eFbM4B1ncY1fCyoOoTxJBgbS2Jzo2FEcF1Hfv8kNLNJylqFZsCZ1q2Bwk7MWye/s1600-h/P2210727.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrKkAJMs5Z-zi_xqOGee83FtbiyRISvv31knqbMw1xGw-HsEO3X9k5EHM37txP72FuafJvOEiWieQzE2eFbM4B1ncY1fCyoOoTxJBgbS2Jzo2FEcF1Hfv8kNLNJylqFZsCZ1q2Bwk7MWye/s320/P2210727.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442612076500350994" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYceO3ZM1BwDUXy-Ppluizr1Qgyj9ua0QgKgYfjIWSzVOnmCeauFOWN-P4VOn5t6dT8hXJl0yGAoEMMnxDN8Z0ldEQG7P1Nz_9C-d97IY6EJusEmtGRsKbjUuQU4QLeVz2grwIAKkSKSb2/s1600-h/P2210724.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYceO3ZM1BwDUXy-Ppluizr1Qgyj9ua0QgKgYfjIWSzVOnmCeauFOWN-P4VOn5t6dT8hXJl0yGAoEMMnxDN8Z0ldEQG7P1Nz_9C-d97IY6EJusEmtGRsKbjUuQU4QLeVz2grwIAKkSKSb2/s320/P2210724.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442612033808584226" /></a><br />The gendarmes stopped us to check our papers – they had just picked up a couple of guys on sport bikes that had roared by us (for once we were innocent!).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihb4UfL6FsMltwWixvkgOs_mjRH9DI8pMrAYsmoXqxUkuhC8p0N2bDp-sgStaY-QStAisr-ClUEZZcQeWeQ76KXOMMvc_f-qb1GTriZOOBahhzbwBv4q7kbEkWGdqJc5vPZ7IzHayqF-cD/s1600-h/P2210728.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihb4UfL6FsMltwWixvkgOs_mjRH9DI8pMrAYsmoXqxUkuhC8p0N2bDp-sgStaY-QStAisr-ClUEZZcQeWeQ76KXOMMvc_f-qb1GTriZOOBahhzbwBv4q7kbEkWGdqJc5vPZ7IzHayqF-cD/s320/P2210728.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442612201349182354" /></a><br />The road ran into the desert and through the mountains. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwpOe83gk09una45CtEFyy27P4kCImNXBgACng7BwB66M1MAE1E7Brrt6WP-EYh94EIT14iQvyiz9_RDyZ3n7IEyWYPw8GLnqs-NwMbDMjG_S01ZssolBla5k0AGUJtU3cDrenWcss0TKK/s1600-h/P2210738.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwpOe83gk09una45CtEFyy27P4kCImNXBgACng7BwB66M1MAE1E7Brrt6WP-EYh94EIT14iQvyiz9_RDyZ3n7IEyWYPw8GLnqs-NwMbDMjG_S01ZssolBla5k0AGUJtU3cDrenWcss0TKK/s320/P2210738.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442612674838950306" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Zb_h228VaHK4ejsSn3uJQYnfSGBjvKugg9_lfQ3oldc1DnUyKQLsm4DvefJOKMxwU6XlQ_1FNEnNwt7UKDBPf0s38imR3NhHCV1hYQYQepwPQDDoXR9xKHcVV496TKe9zsmM12AclGmw/s1600-h/P2210743.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Zb_h228VaHK4ejsSn3uJQYnfSGBjvKugg9_lfQ3oldc1DnUyKQLsm4DvefJOKMxwU6XlQ_1FNEnNwt7UKDBPf0s38imR3NhHCV1hYQYQepwPQDDoXR9xKHcVV496TKe9zsmM12AclGmw/s320/P2210743.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442612626298720994" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNDCpjBUt0MqmBj2lmLxLLvYTYimGiZKuIwfeFFXlkv1-OHgUv9N3Rqc_ClEt5GUHJQaxluRoh6_5_HxdQSEiyeVhkmNkWWHRLcLz8ngHFVg3iRyAy82APMWWEibSfmah1I3pndbAT0Ywd/s1600-h/P2210745.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNDCpjBUt0MqmBj2lmLxLLvYTYimGiZKuIwfeFFXlkv1-OHgUv9N3Rqc_ClEt5GUHJQaxluRoh6_5_HxdQSEiyeVhkmNkWWHRLcLz8ngHFVg3iRyAy82APMWWEibSfmah1I3pndbAT0Ywd/s320/P2210745.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442612550701030962" /></a><br />…and I made a new friend.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH9p5TPoB6auSLGATkvS2uiZXjDOp-6rGiwGQMm0Z4YjyFb0NdbjUbj2cZQOUTUMWusuJEDNGDPWJIr8ZLcN6KXoPfE2ZfOkouNw-TF0WDIIp1fRLcZp5pGJg6s_rJoaxDj-Kh4M9k7voQ/s1600-h/P2210753.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH9p5TPoB6auSLGATkvS2uiZXjDOp-6rGiwGQMm0Z4YjyFb0NdbjUbj2cZQOUTUMWusuJEDNGDPWJIr8ZLcN6KXoPfE2ZfOkouNw-TF0WDIIp1fRLcZp5pGJg6s_rJoaxDj-Kh4M9k7voQ/s320/P2210753.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442612803382833954" /></a><br />We had lunch at the Argentine version of Geneva on the Lake, surrounded by a large group of sport bikes with unprotected riders and passengers.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWid2NFo6HmYJ7rfCSvu4RuLws9yDO7auf51btilZFPwouENSDNyxVLcahczByp2TkcKTvPqG-8xmu4Rm1xF0VFcVsv1ei8n12N9fsWfY7t1fMk1h1edb7mwI6mXkq7U6VyCUoPEF0u3zJ/s1600-h/P2210763.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWid2NFo6HmYJ7rfCSvu4RuLws9yDO7auf51btilZFPwouENSDNyxVLcahczByp2TkcKTvPqG-8xmu4Rm1xF0VFcVsv1ei8n12N9fsWfY7t1fMk1h1edb7mwI6mXkq7U6VyCUoPEF0u3zJ/s320/P2210763.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442612928644554706" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggY4CbZmeGz1u-OqBljeLJIFuE6oPgg_dHG2iElDBvLAj8W9gbogMPmi4V0bqgiv8pNBAxGlZTZUjlUhG8V8-sc86hiR7p6kpXyjC0hbD8oI5QXthjaaBvKRuu3rdTOP1SkVv1fdTBUKu3/s1600-h/P2210762.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggY4CbZmeGz1u-OqBljeLJIFuE6oPgg_dHG2iElDBvLAj8W9gbogMPmi4V0bqgiv8pNBAxGlZTZUjlUhG8V8-sc86hiR7p6kpXyjC0hbD8oI5QXthjaaBvKRuu3rdTOP1SkVv1fdTBUKu3/s320/P2210762.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442613108251745410" /></a><br />This is a serious road rash waiting to happen.<br /><br />We couldn’t find a hotel that evening and ended up camping beside a beautiful stream where we took a swim.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEPypVzIrIxxsUb3St1s2m762ZvfORgLFG18rS4lxdYes6agAbqOamxFNTsLpWWQH2nGvjwAwuVG93oLzPa-k3ULRpYwRMrXYUFVwJsGcSaCWm_f9bRnpQFpAJSvK3QkJiUGtfde-RlhIh/s1600-h/P2210799.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEPypVzIrIxxsUb3St1s2m762ZvfORgLFG18rS4lxdYes6agAbqOamxFNTsLpWWQH2nGvjwAwuVG93oLzPa-k3ULRpYwRMrXYUFVwJsGcSaCWm_f9bRnpQFpAJSvK3QkJiUGtfde-RlhIh/s320/P2210799.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442613239764762770" /></a><br />I needed to tighten up a bunch of bolts on the back of my bike which had loosened due to all the vibration from the road:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh83dyzJfpYAhHVJG63-V3orYgsDJM7uehu6OdvZLql5Rv_RaLSPL6DrPJw9If3cFG-21KVgH7aHKvdVN7_r2wWfqgza3Zd3bQ_62xVDmb8N-aQy1s3Z8OGgHNsDd2o_-SX4oVKPMAlxJ6j/s1600-h/P2210800.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh83dyzJfpYAhHVJG63-V3orYgsDJM7uehu6OdvZLql5Rv_RaLSPL6DrPJw9If3cFG-21KVgH7aHKvdVN7_r2wWfqgza3Zd3bQ_62xVDmb8N-aQy1s3Z8OGgHNsDd2o_-SX4oVKPMAlxJ6j/s320/P2210800.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442613352602220754" /></a><br />We built a fire and cooked a number of items including sardines, biscuits, and some freeze-dried packages that Roger had brought along.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvElEkb-sxdPMOAg6lKpHJ5RMx-T7TVXotNucxAVyrrEjOYERHgYrYO2cpsQuR_mXF7EhRxdIcbkH2kiHD9R8RqPlgAoO2xe94fvc-jOV9q5iXDxwX3YRDrMpryCsBiLnA_6m8ODMvKzcR/s1600-h/P2210805.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvElEkb-sxdPMOAg6lKpHJ5RMx-T7TVXotNucxAVyrrEjOYERHgYrYO2cpsQuR_mXF7EhRxdIcbkH2kiHD9R8RqPlgAoO2xe94fvc-jOV9q5iXDxwX3YRDrMpryCsBiLnA_6m8ODMvKzcR/s320/P2210805.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442613641851433938" /></a><br />Roger’s Jetboil heater was again a spectacular success. The cross ventilation on the Hilleburg tents was a great help during the hot evening. Even so, Vince got 15 insect bites, and his arm looks as though he has leprosy.<br /><br /><br /><strong><em>Day 49 - February 22<br /><br />Camp Londres area, Argentina to San Juan, Argentina </em></strong><br />We had a wonderful rest sleeping in the tents – much better than in a motel room but a little less convenient. I was low on gasoline and didn’t feel I could make it to the next location, so I went on ahead in search of a gas station. Although I didn’t find a gas station, I did locate someone who had gas in a barrel and dispensed it in a one liter Coke bottle. Concerned that the octane level wasn’t high enough in this fuel, I only got four or five liters—enough to cover me for about 120 miles, at which point the others would also be running out of gas.<br /><br />The ride to San Juan was largely desert:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgijogj9F1YzTGuMMVpiZYEI9DLT8ipC5TSLIu-3KgLpkZnq1xAXWPjsGE9Y96xnWjae2pD9inACsaeIAMtQus-ihBaEfHX7P_RutoR-wZYhZAbs1hz5Qmx2CKmJWsKgZc_wc1bqpOJsMVh/s1600-h/P2220817.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgijogj9F1YzTGuMMVpiZYEI9DLT8ipC5TSLIu-3KgLpkZnq1xAXWPjsGE9Y96xnWjae2pD9inACsaeIAMtQus-ihBaEfHX7P_RutoR-wZYhZAbs1hz5Qmx2CKmJWsKgZc_wc1bqpOJsMVh/s320/P2220817.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442613992775026034" /></a><br />We rode over two mountain passes and stopped for lunch in Cafayete.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYaMG2Ieq54BdxvOaIH3WA2KhyYzoBbcR0eDZvdd6ppxjk3yEbfAcOX4TFRTWpcyuBVdIoHkvVvT1CI8ar8rZAKbYM25VXeKThlutm0X4WRzZeBTjJbPc7KFSM7zdJtQq-9RZPV9y_DGx/s1600-h/P2220827.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYaMG2Ieq54BdxvOaIH3WA2KhyYzoBbcR0eDZvdd6ppxjk3yEbfAcOX4TFRTWpcyuBVdIoHkvVvT1CI8ar8rZAKbYM25VXeKThlutm0X4WRzZeBTjJbPc7KFSM7zdJtQq-9RZPV9y_DGx/s320/P2220827.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442614170127068610" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR0n7Re1OJgFVWeB50i2e1DuOYGQWI65oKdiDCdlSIlXjjgR0UtR7JR3J3oVbxBsnHMiX7oKnYe0vD6EU3_pFkKxe-sbuMF1byqc1fBu_FziXgNupDwKZR6GvFlUVBCJJvboxUA07k8TS-/s1600-h/P2220830.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR0n7Re1OJgFVWeB50i2e1DuOYGQWI65oKdiDCdlSIlXjjgR0UtR7JR3J3oVbxBsnHMiX7oKnYe0vD6EU3_pFkKxe-sbuMF1byqc1fBu_FziXgNupDwKZR6GvFlUVBCJJvboxUA07k8TS-/s320/P2220830.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442614115761108754" /></a><br />Most of the ride was through the high desert. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPlIkKgT8XoyyLorVa4r9y3B2Lm_2mBuK8mkYCo-R0vSkJZNoFJXF-eKlWDK_fnqrSFxWptoOeTh2oUAjq_V5MZKhtuLRr_lWH3zdKCZZgmRbLgYO-Ywaq930OQTzDaWVVVELMRI8cvlo1/s1600-h/P2220832.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPlIkKgT8XoyyLorVa4r9y3B2Lm_2mBuK8mkYCo-R0vSkJZNoFJXF-eKlWDK_fnqrSFxWptoOeTh2oUAjq_V5MZKhtuLRr_lWH3zdKCZZgmRbLgYO-Ywaq930OQTzDaWVVVELMRI8cvlo1/s320/P2220832.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442614297869464610" /></a><br />. . .on some interesting gravel roads with tight corners.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVJrr_qCbQ7seSrRmpWulqmByLTDXGK9yIHLEJViGRoPOhBuTe9bTNtmKq_U6a4JsGPAVvMPm1KMQL3mFZMt7yyQjH_aqrBfCFPd9wDUw_2539nRq8qiLBw4svGOmwXPgaJMtXTc_faRc0/s1600-h/P2220837.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVJrr_qCbQ7seSrRmpWulqmByLTDXGK9yIHLEJViGRoPOhBuTe9bTNtmKq_U6a4JsGPAVvMPm1KMQL3mFZMt7yyQjH_aqrBfCFPd9wDUw_2539nRq8qiLBw4svGOmwXPgaJMtXTc_faRc0/s320/P2220837.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442614428565794354" /></a><br />We got into San Juan before dark, cleaned up, and went in search of a restaurant: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5-nG0I9wQTwUJWuijn-YuvGzBQnXqgbFV5uelsygi0w06DLIbyanNSuCqdrTOeNNkYx3cL8x2h6Sk52Q-oNqKu-GaZmv6mijoRCWSv-gdk0u1mxf5whrp6nM2OOdQwd49ikTjl5ASJ3pS/s1600-h/P2220852.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5-nG0I9wQTwUJWuijn-YuvGzBQnXqgbFV5uelsygi0w06DLIbyanNSuCqdrTOeNNkYx3cL8x2h6Sk52Q-oNqKu-GaZmv6mijoRCWSv-gdk0u1mxf5whrp6nM2OOdQwd49ikTjl5ASJ3pS/s320/P2220852.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442614928770787858" /></a><br />We found a great restaurant that had an intense way of barbequing – the coals that fall through on the left are dragged under the grill to the right (maybe this is the way we should cook chicken at Whiskey Island!):<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge1K1YQt0K0_bxdFFvhIdPDsPDJ3TwwkYV6Kk1VPIjhdQgNUAqru64HvaR1482QmJAGUu8JRcrS1FHqiKtmnTl2DwHNxE9J8lOLsDETWXxGsamioZtXWxhd2D-4CRSR-hF6wG3ux7iwX45/s1600-h/P2220855.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge1K1YQt0K0_bxdFFvhIdPDsPDJ3TwwkYV6Kk1VPIjhdQgNUAqru64HvaR1482QmJAGUu8JRcrS1FHqiKtmnTl2DwHNxE9J8lOLsDETWXxGsamioZtXWxhd2D-4CRSR-hF6wG3ux7iwX45/s320/P2220855.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442615056989069762" /></a><br /><br /><strong><em>Day 50 – February 23<br /><br />San Juan, Argentina to Uspallata, Argentina</em></strong><br />We departed San Juan early the morning of the 23rd:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju6KNW774W_OleOZ7g2JeJjbJQEa4THmiQH4-L09NI0SaaehJTSsCqbbO6iecuCpm3LQHZJPL_DxIodA_CLkqx_qWG316NNJSfXtHSO2jmHVHlxN0VXEYR7dxQYl4L6bNgcSqlMWPg7Qtr/s1600-h/P2230001.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju6KNW774W_OleOZ7g2JeJjbJQEa4THmiQH4-L09NI0SaaehJTSsCqbbO6iecuCpm3LQHZJPL_DxIodA_CLkqx_qWG316NNJSfXtHSO2jmHVHlxN0VXEYR7dxQYl4L6bNgcSqlMWPg7Qtr/s320/P2230001.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442615259615103650" /></a><br />Vincent delighted the young children manning a roadside with his Canadian flag (inspired by the Canadians beating the Russians in hockey). . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0I-9KQN6BWPIcq9pAfvKowtw2zSQHblyxjM3AW3UihGK2gY3Cd7NFrHgrfxnj8zqGiQlOZhcZ47C5lvBStB48M67sbcGT2VAoAINgDrmQBJux4nL2C51lH-bSx2WN_p1NhcsPdjt_kWx/s1600-h/P2230004.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0I-9KQN6BWPIcq9pAfvKowtw2zSQHblyxjM3AW3UihGK2gY3Cd7NFrHgrfxnj8zqGiQlOZhcZ47C5lvBStB48M67sbcGT2VAoAINgDrmQBJux4nL2C51lH-bSx2WN_p1NhcsPdjt_kWx/s320/P2230004.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442615415377624050" /></a><br />. . .while Helge generated more film for his DVD.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs9CrinetB5h4CnN4CDvz5M7YMW2T9cD1Jyfe8qqvYS5yZhyphenhyphenjhuyarRzTnXbdNVJxgL9BgMhibPivFB26ZeWrvtIalVLT4U44NhuLkywYf0qhzOJpeiRK9aYTiQT4EGIvtm6CZq6TBpnxz/s1600-h/P2230006.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs9CrinetB5h4CnN4CDvz5M7YMW2T9cD1Jyfe8qqvYS5yZhyphenhyphenjhuyarRzTnXbdNVJxgL9BgMhibPivFB26ZeWrvtIalVLT4U44NhuLkywYf0qhzOJpeiRK9aYTiQT4EGIvtm6CZq6TBpnxz/s320/P2230006.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442615576444968098" /></a><br />We headed into the desert. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW_SNkhl8gWQ6wqmzfw22z_kDUnCArqMGRBtkf1q9-tQUMipXoWmWJOEAOE-gkHX6PIaNxG3u2_iaI4enAhw3ORiPlUU80XiKCfKABFqJvl2kwtoInbug30sLf8BzV74Or6JCp2DhgKPlf/s1600-h/P2230010.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW_SNkhl8gWQ6wqmzfw22z_kDUnCArqMGRBtkf1q9-tQUMipXoWmWJOEAOE-gkHX6PIaNxG3u2_iaI4enAhw3ORiPlUU80XiKCfKABFqJvl2kwtoInbug30sLf8BzV74Or6JCp2DhgKPlf/s320/P2230010.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442615696859974786" /></a><br />…and passed through sporadic splashes of trees in small metro areas (the shading in the top of the pictures below is my finger – I didn’t have this problem with my single-lens reflex):<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSYgZZYbS0HiQeaHZFst1pPiQ08lSOCGEUPsovS-qqtWQ3uxKbGyeq_ep1r09vwEWh3UA6Fmg6LdX7MJz8mfH8OAwxlIyRpmqyFd-4wvdxtIEDpGQFCqncOmyJgYOxJP28eKuXe7Fi_Sre/s1600-h/P2230012.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSYgZZYbS0HiQeaHZFst1pPiQ08lSOCGEUPsovS-qqtWQ3uxKbGyeq_ep1r09vwEWh3UA6Fmg6LdX7MJz8mfH8OAwxlIyRpmqyFd-4wvdxtIEDpGQFCqncOmyJgYOxJP28eKuXe7Fi_Sre/s320/P2230012.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442615840762970514" /></a><br />We stopped for lunch at a nice roadside stand then continued on through some rugged terrain . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiylgESvf8FA61Vi8YLWxKFqmbsc9CIvhkSSZexGPqgKqRYjlkCi7rkiYSDtPED_eKjS1NWt7iDumnZLvK5Ii2G71npRwYY6ecKzFhNhMI4aAZfjAtX1DY-5V3mnDI8cBPizWxicCINPQqR/s1600-h/P2230031.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiylgESvf8FA61Vi8YLWxKFqmbsc9CIvhkSSZexGPqgKqRYjlkCi7rkiYSDtPED_eKjS1NWt7iDumnZLvK5Ii2G71npRwYY6ecKzFhNhMI4aAZfjAtX1DY-5V3mnDI8cBPizWxicCINPQqR/s320/P2230031.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442616012690246258" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjhedCiXf7vW07VsJmQqrwRov5fh1yihqORkG9tRcn1ubtqLDxkKOUCka1l3zJ8h1OYGiQjMV9H80WugfjE_yB5PvyCtI4tdElga75VYHegIsY5L_T0BX4s65VNmyIAEjhhWVGEzODuWq3/s1600-h/P2230033.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjhedCiXf7vW07VsJmQqrwRov5fh1yihqORkG9tRcn1ubtqLDxkKOUCka1l3zJ8h1OYGiQjMV9H80WugfjE_yB5PvyCtI4tdElga75VYHegIsY5L_T0BX4s65VNmyIAEjhhWVGEzODuWq3/s320/P2230033.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442615960301116498" /></a><br />. . . spotted with tunnels.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPNCBuE-l0NTEPoQu23M2sDHVKvNqfs1FiXvAziwt_s2a7HuIJNNbA7gJYSEpyKGqxeq8fJ_PO80LhydXHnU5RHLDkT52srCd-7fRxxmXcG0_9stLUm4Zb_lemwdlCIcujWAGbiUwacPq/s1600-h/P2230034.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPNCBuE-l0NTEPoQu23M2sDHVKvNqfs1FiXvAziwt_s2a7HuIJNNbA7gJYSEpyKGqxeq8fJ_PO80LhydXHnU5RHLDkT52srCd-7fRxxmXcG0_9stLUm4Zb_lemwdlCIcujWAGbiUwacPq/s320/P2230034.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442616131081747602" /></a><br />We made our way to a long-toothed resort outside of Uspallata, Argentina . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL0g0NA8x4-gwMlvFEC6Qg9FZzBFNUrvPA-SA5CGRtEa4aqd-_BSS4JEu8NrBCzKg4s0pODBVpAR6rlw1_J_g8iVrzwcbxb_dlKnw0eLZcg1S83uQ2mHJPYfudUCDrdqvCeDqDa4ptXnQp/s1600-h/P2230045.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL0g0NA8x4-gwMlvFEC6Qg9FZzBFNUrvPA-SA5CGRtEa4aqd-_BSS4JEu8NrBCzKg4s0pODBVpAR6rlw1_J_g8iVrzwcbxb_dlKnw0eLZcg1S83uQ2mHJPYfudUCDrdqvCeDqDa4ptXnQp/s320/P2230045.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442616240561643042" /></a><br />. . . and Roger decided to rest before we checked in.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8LJym5Du0S2KOQdQ_EAHGqcNXUvyXz43LoKZw6cxMDvwcSX9NiVuMbgF85KRXJ8yCEbKbBrJI9wANa30DoB8xviGeuejJwRDRgpg9Uo7hj0m72ZgYbF1LsiZ8QEmu7UShz4zZePs6J0v/s1600-h/P2230046.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8LJym5Du0S2KOQdQ_EAHGqcNXUvyXz43LoKZw6cxMDvwcSX9NiVuMbgF85KRXJ8yCEbKbBrJI9wANa30DoB8xviGeuejJwRDRgpg9Uo7hj0m72ZgYbF1LsiZ8QEmu7UShz4zZePs6J0v/s320/P2230046.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442616345861953506" /></a><br /><br /><strong><em>Day 51 – February 24<br /><br />Uspallata, Argentina to Santiago, Chile</em></strong><br />We got a 7:00 a.m. start and headed up into the mountains on the road to Chile. The camera I am now forced to use (a pocket Olympus) does not do the scenery justice:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR_SF3OE94WJyYEZpb0k3W7CjARm7S7UFaWnfKulXIJpej_L0Nxpk3qV5HUfkHNEj3CVrmaDbaO2rxvddn7LubZ8pVMF8lJm2lQ7lpw78oIXNIPHsv49a-Fh42PW_HjsXPr22vmaKfyKM-/s1600-h/P2240061.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR_SF3OE94WJyYEZpb0k3W7CjARm7S7UFaWnfKulXIJpej_L0Nxpk3qV5HUfkHNEj3CVrmaDbaO2rxvddn7LubZ8pVMF8lJm2lQ7lpw78oIXNIPHsv49a-Fh42PW_HjsXPr22vmaKfyKM-/s320/P2240061.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442616524818064386" /></a><br />On both sides of the road were enormous slides that reminded me (though on a more giant scale) of the dunes that fall into the Au Sable River near East Tawas, Michigan – those are perhaps several hundred feet high and these are several thousand feet high. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNJLyDD8bgU-9ACIQkohSRDiGbCzZuCZnX5hyk-pKpMmmgDmHt7GCmFNrK5jWqgzfXxZy5GYbDBfK0j02lsZ8QEHlyASbvRpI2p_zfAttDWXYvON1QxgjXxu0bibu7vGJGANQkXGY3iKO8/s1600-h/P2240060.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNJLyDD8bgU-9ACIQkohSRDiGbCzZuCZnX5hyk-pKpMmmgDmHt7GCmFNrK5jWqgzfXxZy5GYbDBfK0j02lsZ8QEHlyASbvRpI2p_zfAttDWXYvON1QxgjXxu0bibu7vGJGANQkXGY3iKO8/s320/P2240060.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442616783262393730" /></a><br />The slides are interrupted by rock outcroppings. The rock itself is soft and has a clay-shale structure. It obviously erodes easily with the freezing and thawing of temperature changes. The quality of the rock, sand, and shale determine the angle of repose of the banks. They are extraordinarily dramatic – it would be fun to run and slide down the sides of these banks – but I’m in no shape to take them on.<br /><br />We stopped along the ascent at an old hot springs tourist attraction that is now closed: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhntK__CrzIrlXk9Vi43cgJK1WLZ3C0m28wmHkI7paXzax-H6qgVognMwQ6NhKUk8PgSF-pfRrHBrqBI5kHHVE6EAgKd-egIciyJY3oYzN3eXgHnSlNFd1kCELO0dmWKnXo1hWEPN4TnURd/s1600-h/P2240067.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhntK__CrzIrlXk9Vi43cgJK1WLZ3C0m28wmHkI7paXzax-H6qgVognMwQ6NhKUk8PgSF-pfRrHBrqBI5kHHVE6EAgKd-egIciyJY3oYzN3eXgHnSlNFd1kCELO0dmWKnXo1hWEPN4TnURd/s320/P2240067.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442616915746440674" /></a><br />To the right of the church pictured here was a hotel where the hot springs visitors stayed. What is amazing about this is that an avalanche completely leveled the hotel, killing a number of people, and left the church, only a hundred feet away, untouched. The guide at the park, in his broken English, called it a miracle.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBbhmRood1yfEjGkLxKX6Sh0ZcaEE1HHD_BQw0GXJPB0Nwxu09ot-waLTVCeUMCpPb-KnXyIMiA_AuOXjo4ZDIxk7pRPezdjf5s4YYJWEHNRBvNUZ9b-nx__qqjVXSfSpiMLiTGvvLzWEM/s1600-h/P2240068.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBbhmRood1yfEjGkLxKX6Sh0ZcaEE1HHD_BQw0GXJPB0Nwxu09ot-waLTVCeUMCpPb-KnXyIMiA_AuOXjo4ZDIxk7pRPezdjf5s4YYJWEHNRBvNUZ9b-nx__qqjVXSfSpiMLiTGvvLzWEM/s320/P2240068.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442617046171091314" /></a><br />As we continued our ascent, we caught a glimpse of Aconcagua . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh6SMUo_FOCgu_WmgsmIUz_f7xlqsa43U1XvCaUlUENXko22jfC_Fw6cQB3rdav8UUo3aCAqIJV3e-Bghanm0r-S2kwecqZn6aK7Ey9diBiCp6MG4-KQ97gpyBnQKRTJnqBFlp1iP4A_tG/s1600-h/P2240070.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh6SMUo_FOCgu_WmgsmIUz_f7xlqsa43U1XvCaUlUENXko22jfC_Fw6cQB3rdav8UUo3aCAqIJV3e-Bghanm0r-S2kwecqZn6aK7Ey9diBiCp6MG4-KQ97gpyBnQKRTJnqBFlp1iP4A_tG/s320/P2240070.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442617173354729314" /></a><br /> . . . the highest peak in the Americas and the highest peak outside of Asia. We passed some hikers taking off for a closer view, and Helge, Vincent and Roger climbed a kilometer or two up to get a better look. We can see the summit behind this small hill.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8uVLt0SRDACsAfnHiEC1g0h-n1hXzHfhyphenhyphenShbLV4cIMNJCjdjvJYy1BM5kXOrCnor9JB5p1VNe6NDJQHUkQLtzsdSfy9haM-V0x5tcbOTMypw3ka-vA4MKibtV8X_B0tinBeeHfpU6do2l/s1600-h/P2240075.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8uVLt0SRDACsAfnHiEC1g0h-n1hXzHfhyphenhyphenShbLV4cIMNJCjdjvJYy1BM5kXOrCnor9JB5p1VNe6NDJQHUkQLtzsdSfy9haM-V0x5tcbOTMypw3ka-vA4MKibtV8X_B0tinBeeHfpU6do2l/s320/P2240075.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442617291248321234" /></a><br />A helicopter was ferrying supplies to the hikers:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDjciEloeD9ZS_lv8xrlTE0a_vhWwP0AwwJ9MbtUpoIJUSKslY3eyjA2TZKWChRzZsWTbn4OsqLk1ZenLY6UWtDya0mA1UF0Xa7ho_0-I_Kni-ZnHXl5Zc95egAKJ_8Kv2yDrB8cAbcYzq/s1600-h/P2240074.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDjciEloeD9ZS_lv8xrlTE0a_vhWwP0AwwJ9MbtUpoIJUSKslY3eyjA2TZKWChRzZsWTbn4OsqLk1ZenLY6UWtDya0mA1UF0Xa7ho_0-I_Kni-ZnHXl5Zc95egAKJ_8Kv2yDrB8cAbcYzq/s320/P2240074.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442617412030115970" /></a><br />Instead of taking the new asphalt road that leads to the top of the pass (a little more than 12,000 feet), we choose the old gravel road.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivg1z4nie3RbgDRq3ffT_5M8sLiroqr2a-TEi3gfP9T2QR7GhJSll6Qs6NugiCyuP2wMsqiirQyqYgGE_rgcQ1fAKsveRqhCp_CS3zV8PqQL26zipI60AaOo0mqqGme4X-ACQw36qmYmS3/s1600-h/P2240081.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivg1z4nie3RbgDRq3ffT_5M8sLiroqr2a-TEi3gfP9T2QR7GhJSll6Qs6NugiCyuP2wMsqiirQyqYgGE_rgcQ1fAKsveRqhCp_CS3zV8PqQL26zipI60AaOo0mqqGme4X-ACQw36qmYmS3/s320/P2240081.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442617523261380786" /></a><br />There were no guard rails to protect us, but we were treated to beautiful views of the sliding mountain. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC93oVF62IxX2B7xWaDiLOV4qaFaN8oFOafK-AuCQ0lKtPNTWqlWuMlgSUiyqqSG71-YCYom4Lj7LskwALw3Ncdbe9JDHhcScTpX8RjUnBsM0iALtTGRNIKptEJPaNvakM0B7WPc1gwVL4/s1600-h/P2240083.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC93oVF62IxX2B7xWaDiLOV4qaFaN8oFOafK-AuCQ0lKtPNTWqlWuMlgSUiyqqSG71-YCYom4Lj7LskwALw3Ncdbe9JDHhcScTpX8RjUnBsM0iALtTGRNIKptEJPaNvakM0B7WPc1gwVL4/s320/P2240083.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442617667318054594" /></a><br />. . . and the mountains in the distance.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsIrzPTNFrzx-hP3GB5tyMpp6wAE3Ifq7fR6PXGLDymsxlQf5Jfo6eqfx411MLYWVlFKLyF_wzfgnoAKhbiV-kqGH9bBNl9AukTgbz0GP_iWadA4EAiLCdOZh-4SMye-yv5BpeZpPyF7bm/s1600-h/P2240084.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsIrzPTNFrzx-hP3GB5tyMpp6wAE3Ifq7fR6PXGLDymsxlQf5Jfo6eqfx411MLYWVlFKLyF_wzfgnoAKhbiV-kqGH9bBNl9AukTgbz0GP_iWadA4EAiLCdOZh-4SMye-yv5BpeZpPyF7bm/s320/P2240084.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442617782024725538" /></a><br />At the peak, we saw more stunning views of glaciers creeping down the sides of the distant mountains:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcsTbL2p_T6p4M1HXmBM5CgiC0fdVRhpgB41tHp5FZJLe1K2BcWdD4TJ9O13FgjfFgn8HKVovQFwlqcJ_1L1NbxeO1oxOBHWPv4mTrBE9MHMJQDbYj0o8hkwrywHndn8IkJiMzrQuOtdco/s1600-h/P2240088.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcsTbL2p_T6p4M1HXmBM5CgiC0fdVRhpgB41tHp5FZJLe1K2BcWdD4TJ9O13FgjfFgn8HKVovQFwlqcJ_1L1NbxeO1oxOBHWPv4mTrBE9MHMJQDbYj0o8hkwrywHndn8IkJiMzrQuOtdco/s320/P2240088.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442617889661969714" /></a><br />And of course the summit would not be complete without a Christ sculpture:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjV1Aih0BBmcazym2zQcSQyucLHhbC83cxLFQVtfoVlM1U8J_IdnY75-ahtb_KcvLE8b_kpSQvskfNXSIxlV_rGIO3WG_F9FlI_0pG7zq4rT5joEBceOoLUl-qFlyBw8zSt2_6Kmg39ERc/s1600-h/P2240090.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjV1Aih0BBmcazym2zQcSQyucLHhbC83cxLFQVtfoVlM1U8J_IdnY75-ahtb_KcvLE8b_kpSQvskfNXSIxlV_rGIO3WG_F9FlI_0pG7zq4rT5joEBceOoLUl-qFlyBw8zSt2_6Kmg39ERc/s320/P2240090.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442618017899718978" /></a><br />We had a wonderful ride zigzagging down the mountain:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf1avmD8J_CIJModstA2HtwG4wpM5Kzo8bsaPh5JnFGVLXuM2xUuRE7a8R3rQMMs-ckoQzytZKmLhUM5C6jxczveqqV5QErNM0-dHQuOFa48pN9wbnsMTdouz0ANA4rt91G8TSUyD9dzTc/s1600-h/P2240091.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf1avmD8J_CIJModstA2HtwG4wpM5Kzo8bsaPh5JnFGVLXuM2xUuRE7a8R3rQMMs-ckoQzytZKmLhUM5C6jxczveqqV5QErNM0-dHQuOFa48pN9wbnsMTdouz0ANA4rt91G8TSUyD9dzTc/s320/P2240091.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442618127834156130" /></a><br />It felt as though we were riding into the bottom of a teacup, surrounded on all sides.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEh_9BWCLhzyj3muD2wKQ2G2RbHZzP603xHvBI1H4ZuZQhXqUd01H46w3bnygV4AYrO5_vgBdD3TSfzme48bsGDR5D_G2G_RVKOePSnXpxxD8BNxrisDyI7IxkNTUpvN6EU4pDcf5Dr40Z/s1600-h/P2240093.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEh_9BWCLhzyj3muD2wKQ2G2RbHZzP603xHvBI1H4ZuZQhXqUd01H46w3bnygV4AYrO5_vgBdD3TSfzme48bsGDR5D_G2G_RVKOePSnXpxxD8BNxrisDyI7IxkNTUpvN6EU4pDcf5Dr40Z/s320/P2240093.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442618223550127378" /></a><br />The descent is dramatically steep – with the added twist of gravel on the corners.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjuUynP9RJrKN2E_zkgFKqOg2t0zqODqXm6p5vgyLv_U0vWl9Eh5ne8g25nCWtIS38ZNjxahwvK1g5OH25AGlBDwXsJVr6ofg5t6MXqP_qEBgOAx9gPorjD-MgV9Zhfns8FdzJZErTbVQG/s1600-h/P2240096.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjuUynP9RJrKN2E_zkgFKqOg2t0zqODqXm6p5vgyLv_U0vWl9Eh5ne8g25nCWtIS38ZNjxahwvK1g5OH25AGlBDwXsJVr6ofg5t6MXqP_qEBgOAx9gPorjD-MgV9Zhfns8FdzJZErTbVQG/s320/P2240096.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5442618374433568674" /></a><br />Passing through customs (done the right way – with Argentinean and Chilean officials both in the same room), I was treated to my first-ever complete search. I have not previously experienced this type of search, even along the Silk Road – every bag and pannier was completely emptied and their contents were spread out on the ground – they wanted to see everything. Perhaps I should clean my leathers and shave more frequently to look more respectable. <br /><br />A short way down the mountain we stopped at the Portillo ski resort. We had a wonderful lunch and could look out at the steep runs and the hostile environment. This is where the US ski team practices during the summer.<br /><br />A short while later, we arrived in Santiago and checked into the Crown Plaza hotel. Here we plan to have at least one days’ rest. My third camera has failed, which is extremely upsetting. (This was my video camera, POV, which was able to record at the press of a button and would also record the previous and following minutes after the button was pressed. It was also a good tool for providing a chronology of the day.) The second camera that failed was my single-lens reflex, which was good for taking pictures on the fly. Hopefully my remaining camera will suffice and last the remainder of the trip (I may purchase another single-lens reflex while in Santiago).Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-63046258165614613802010-02-22T11:37:00.000-08:002010-02-25T07:35:46.237-08:00Day 40-44 – February 13-17<strong><em>Cuzco, Peru to Puno, Peru to La Paz, Bolivia to Uyuni, Bolivia to Potosi, Bolivia</em></strong><br /><br />Helge once again forced us up early, and we headed out of Cuzco in time to beat the Saturday morning market traffic.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzpaeeD9bD6GWiIx1CJZvm_rei8j7TrLuk3lpYC29zFtcZIJ65ptDspdJeR_iTIlt_4kAQs41tgP15I7ZRHlyQVlLleqVCuYbnFldaJ2BY6990d9IspKLbHrZIHUkyF98drBYxaHm1wIjU/s1600-h/DSC05075.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzpaeeD9bD6GWiIx1CJZvm_rei8j7TrLuk3lpYC29zFtcZIJ65ptDspdJeR_iTIlt_4kAQs41tgP15I7ZRHlyQVlLleqVCuYbnFldaJ2BY6990d9IspKLbHrZIHUkyF98drBYxaHm1wIjU/s320/DSC05075.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441159291113116354" /></a><br />There was beautiful scenery along the way as we headed over a number of mountain passes: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3cvXAAZ_qAz-zpk3_ciQn0W-elc3Rcat6YdTHa2wDZLIKCgBlWyWGUlsoTxLYpGV1Il2PRsyFS0O5mRqbq-Ysrp07Qr9TZROMA6bO0I-Z5MrHEY2CSLVoe1JZvVPZANojuIc_-R3Nb1VW/s1600-h/DSC05084.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3cvXAAZ_qAz-zpk3_ciQn0W-elc3Rcat6YdTHa2wDZLIKCgBlWyWGUlsoTxLYpGV1Il2PRsyFS0O5mRqbq-Ysrp07Qr9TZROMA6bO0I-Z5MrHEY2CSLVoe1JZvVPZANojuIc_-R3Nb1VW/s320/DSC05084.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441159394801540242" /></a><br />We passed several small markets along the roadside:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQCu5h7cVdDz3VPNdZjeGXALUxBiL46h8q__2y_tEp66iz82PPIgTanjDqaophNjM1yMSyTu1VnqyBolIrkVf0pq2wSDAucIKY_y-rLtmCAPXeaV7kUEbxcRLN-hjRDaVpA34IWJAEzfeN/s1600-h/DSC05081.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQCu5h7cVdDz3VPNdZjeGXALUxBiL46h8q__2y_tEp66iz82PPIgTanjDqaophNjM1yMSyTu1VnqyBolIrkVf0pq2wSDAucIKY_y-rLtmCAPXeaV7kUEbxcRLN-hjRDaVpA34IWJAEzfeN/s320/DSC05081.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441160871253953698" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp3vQ4MBES5eNsbNai3_KGwceARLEGVJzbFbpDtC6WOZfG-ssYQHCpOaL30rUVk3wZM-Td2b53LTV3UzLojyZxAaJjZRCfWnBWVGPjvqVWRYPHcPKdvHs1jD9ZCFo7gb_X_LtT9NI8kuGV/s1600-h/DSC05121.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp3vQ4MBES5eNsbNai3_KGwceARLEGVJzbFbpDtC6WOZfG-ssYQHCpOaL30rUVk3wZM-Td2b53LTV3UzLojyZxAaJjZRCfWnBWVGPjvqVWRYPHcPKdvHs1jD9ZCFo7gb_X_LtT9NI8kuGV/s320/DSC05121.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441160805921984914" /></a><br />All of the roads are improved by Bolivian standards . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ERafco84xSSZaM1Y_0li8_bcuyskpFE-RB5iSGez68QnXNI8hUC9lU4CYqUVABeFSbFxeacXJjxUxaBgMDlahggcb8RrGd3-H3vmsoglahdvYIPwUVX-e905Meioue0h9KIJWHs5FtBG/s1600-h/DSC05091.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ERafco84xSSZaM1Y_0li8_bcuyskpFE-RB5iSGez68QnXNI8hUC9lU4CYqUVABeFSbFxeacXJjxUxaBgMDlahggcb8RrGd3-H3vmsoglahdvYIPwUVX-e905Meioue0h9KIJWHs5FtBG/s320/DSC05091.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441162814689480050" /></a><br />With long open stretches spotted with high altitude lakes.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Va-lmiA_YDzNxQ3yGHQgg9TMTioCUAMGG2_MarsKoTG_8b04aqYobXOy30ZItv5lZxc09RwHLJtan5VN15sus1bKwLrNz-OddDxYSg-BpJq2856Ur0-fYBCfsfHkl0-Isf0svTl69PK6/s1600-h/DSC05108.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Va-lmiA_YDzNxQ3yGHQgg9TMTioCUAMGG2_MarsKoTG_8b04aqYobXOy30ZItv5lZxc09RwHLJtan5VN15sus1bKwLrNz-OddDxYSg-BpJq2856Ur0-fYBCfsfHkl0-Isf0svTl69PK6/s320/DSC05108.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441162938293791010" /></a><br />We entered the town of Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest lake navigable to large vessels, at 12,500 feet above sea level on the border between Peru and Bolivia. Titicaca is the second largest lake of South America (after Maracaibo). It covers some 3,200 square miles.<br /><br />It being Saturday, there was a huge market covering the streets of the city . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK6WFUlO5xfKj8PHeKp5EJpQoAnR6Eg91TnFcGM3plmdo0cRZRfpYg4YPj7KkgCZ_W03y7Iu3-CPIg26HN61VqNzh_XN0PZTpEXQgQMv6lEV460B8SQHBh5SCAzSvaj-PbNb_t_VreUOfo/s1600-h/DSC05158.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK6WFUlO5xfKj8PHeKp5EJpQoAnR6Eg91TnFcGM3plmdo0cRZRfpYg4YPj7KkgCZ_W03y7Iu3-CPIg26HN61VqNzh_XN0PZTpEXQgQMv6lEV460B8SQHBh5SCAzSvaj-PbNb_t_VreUOfo/s320/DSC05158.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441163100324218962" /></a><br />. . . with prices that would make Americans weep – for example, a three-port electrical adapter for only $.30. In the hardware section, paper-thin corrugated metal was available (perhaps ¼ of the thickness of the roofing material in the states), but of course they don’t have hurricanes here. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdhBVuW9zDzXXt6IBfFplY4RNGxzsBP3hEUGt2w-MJ4mywsOJ9nKN6uuGRYgp-Sw3ZcUD_y6g3W7F19yGxVWr9MuZPz2ujqpFdgkodqcghCFnbI9b83WXCcl06Q6-pm-jQQcivuf0bpLE/s1600-h/DSC05157.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdhBVuW9zDzXXt6IBfFplY4RNGxzsBP3hEUGt2w-MJ4mywsOJ9nKN6uuGRYgp-Sw3ZcUD_y6g3W7F19yGxVWr9MuZPz2ujqpFdgkodqcghCFnbI9b83WXCcl06Q6-pm-jQQcivuf0bpLE/s320/DSC05157.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441163270447577474" /></a><br />A blacksmith was selling crowbars hammered out of rebar.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUSHi2siPQZsSBsZRhJ-yzaVPYbHNFMb9E9Fb0_jGL5ZYQ8UpvI4cg0bL612oUqDMU5c17AVproyEPkFEelYZCLrOWLGIucMQ7fbvg2A2Eqg37UgqWpNXSNQoUMK09MPMjBYDZlVoKHANs/s1600-h/DSC05159.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUSHi2siPQZsSBsZRhJ-yzaVPYbHNFMb9E9Fb0_jGL5ZYQ8UpvI4cg0bL612oUqDMU5c17AVproyEPkFEelYZCLrOWLGIucMQ7fbvg2A2Eqg37UgqWpNXSNQoUMK09MPMjBYDZlVoKHANs/s320/DSC05159.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441163419587994226" /></a><br />I sat down with some natives to eat what seemed to be fried sole—delicious!<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMO7J4oDEQa-7lAE380eUAhzrvBqJkWpQezxF8Fgv9OW0csMEjXUCFpobF7jwIJHkNI_uGVwxy-NPjTD6B5oMcNuIYgrDCfy4hF0HCMLtWIgHKylXqB5ez-2cWiR6gqUm9pizH0pkQPLux/s1600-h/DSC05155.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMO7J4oDEQa-7lAE380eUAhzrvBqJkWpQezxF8Fgv9OW0csMEjXUCFpobF7jwIJHkNI_uGVwxy-NPjTD6B5oMcNuIYgrDCfy4hF0HCMLtWIgHKylXqB5ez-2cWiR6gqUm9pizH0pkQPLux/s320/DSC05155.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441163650562652882" /></a><br />I was surprised by the large number of pirated video games for sale from these small vendors.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMSWfcYQPwlQftCkciTayrRLFf7tWixWj3Zp8rhsT_DmwI4rfr0TgXKTRuyzPhr2YE36_6wmaTjdzMcIoJu5z4YN78SZX-k8ek4FgSm4ob6oLJelx1Cb-w8AbgA6lFXqKnisNb6CU0ik7R/s1600-h/DSC05154.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMSWfcYQPwlQftCkciTayrRLFf7tWixWj3Zp8rhsT_DmwI4rfr0TgXKTRuyzPhr2YE36_6wmaTjdzMcIoJu5z4YN78SZX-k8ek4FgSm4ob6oLJelx1Cb-w8AbgA6lFXqKnisNb6CU0ik7R/s320/DSC05154.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441164247041298546" /></a><br />Near the square was an elaborate concrete slide that was being thoroughly enjoyed by the children.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRRiYjkwyNWZzW9sTz-qHWBK_pDnRivNApDtsSkFfteaNvbv1H4WwoIoYz5XxfjiVFa6FjTHcePyMnlfIiqKu-9HGgcy7d7G6n1usk5ake3ne5SOEfzt-XPabOBtyyZRKggEZYeJduybSM/s1600-h/DSC05162.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRRiYjkwyNWZzW9sTz-qHWBK_pDnRivNApDtsSkFfteaNvbv1H4WwoIoYz5XxfjiVFa6FjTHcePyMnlfIiqKu-9HGgcy7d7G6n1usk5ake3ne5SOEfzt-XPabOBtyyZRKggEZYeJduybSM/s320/DSC05162.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441164376043977314" /></a><br />The real attraction, of course, is Lake Titicaca, which has several lavish resorts on its shores . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga8NMy7kktFhHeIpx7ZEw9doT63ulm6HvOlC4J-XPh6fa9F0_AvuesKwhK_-8ThdVvQWwhyphenhyphene88ZvsN-rDo8IC1ZOfq5hm_OyXLxMZ31zATsL3HBqCqCq32OQLi5jfA_BkiWuPPrCLkOwUJ/s1600-h/DSC05167.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga8NMy7kktFhHeIpx7ZEw9doT63ulm6HvOlC4J-XPh6fa9F0_AvuesKwhK_-8ThdVvQWwhyphenhyphene88ZvsN-rDo8IC1ZOfq5hm_OyXLxMZ31zATsL3HBqCqCq32OQLi5jfA_BkiWuPPrCLkOwUJ/s320/DSC05167.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441164506176668898" /></a><br />and many excursion vessels awaiting tourists. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidTdrX6HtBfaQM2LqAjhYGwNTT1Xhutbzl9lUggT377TRERhkDq8ZeSPhzxy_BHTb4WLphhnEE0AMTEYODHD7GoEI8op2taZ1DeYTqTO_j4gA6vXr_SrDehwKroH7zFm-X2cBD_YmZtjZA/s1600-h/DSC05166.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidTdrX6HtBfaQM2LqAjhYGwNTT1Xhutbzl9lUggT377TRERhkDq8ZeSPhzxy_BHTb4WLphhnEE0AMTEYODHD7GoEI8op2taZ1DeYTqTO_j4gA6vXr_SrDehwKroH7zFm-X2cBD_YmZtjZA/s320/DSC05166.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441164675041373458" /></a><br />We rented a boat to visit a village where Indians live on floating islands made of layers of peat (eight to twelve feet thick) that rise from the bottom of the lake. They tie together the islands of peat and build reed houses on them. They also construct boats with reeds. When disputes arise between members of the village, they simply cut the dissenting member from the island with a large two-man saw (such as you would have seen in the lumberyards of the Old West). <br /><br />It was particularly interesting to watch them cook small fish (4-5 inches long) by sandwiching the fish between two layers of hot rocks. This dish is considered a delicacy and could be traded for other merchandise on their Sunday market day.<br /><br />Lake Titicaca is a point where items can easily stray across the border—there is a large amount of smuggling activity in the area.<br /><br />Tomorrow, we will head to La Paz, Bolivia.<br /><br /><strong><em>February 14</em></strong><br />Waking early in the morning, we left Puno and the beautiful view of the lights shining on Lake Titicaca:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH_3-EM87Ox9PFPhonX7YEJT4kz33COgavJ4mHv7ZRfsg_evcztmo97gszEwYXfK1Mj2_xZl_aHxufoby6NT25jHRdDjxJDmk9cWBlKiJPC_5vSdOt48-nUtWwhmec0O2Ro8x81zVudv14/s1600-h/DSC05169.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH_3-EM87Ox9PFPhonX7YEJT4kz33COgavJ4mHv7ZRfsg_evcztmo97gszEwYXfK1Mj2_xZl_aHxufoby6NT25jHRdDjxJDmk9cWBlKiJPC_5vSdOt48-nUtWwhmec0O2Ro8x81zVudv14/s320/DSC05169.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441164912822659618" /></a><br />We headed out of town before the market traffic began…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9bdSld_vXFlcGGm_APa6HAs4qCNdTGEGWlqdQpE0jQ_rU3zeVqNMzPgr9A49vC4mh9GiPquPcUCRhgmdlC2fTCBj15KKftLhZtnSkuahyphenhyphenij1_HscTTpDzAhr4AhFrdSV-tyv3E-qKixWp/s1600-h/DSC05175.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9bdSld_vXFlcGGm_APa6HAs4qCNdTGEGWlqdQpE0jQ_rU3zeVqNMzPgr9A49vC4mh9GiPquPcUCRhgmdlC2fTCBj15KKftLhZtnSkuahyphenhyphenij1_HscTTpDzAhr4AhFrdSV-tyv3E-qKixWp/s320/DSC05175.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441165055942672082" /></a><br />and passed fish farms, which are spread along the length of the lake. The nets, which extend below the water and are suspended by pontoons, contain trout and king fish (that have the un-kingly length of about six inches).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_rfqS4cSlvQ_PYTZ9KQ3Equo4QCf52Nc3e4Zb5pYcaxVp-qOwxMcy1_UeOq4dj2eoosDKPPu1nn_NFprcMpgg2VTpScIhJBK6ILd-dQN5SckVOIKRXKRTmO7DrJF1ialnQNWtyT03tinf/s1600-h/DSC05186.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_rfqS4cSlvQ_PYTZ9KQ3Equo4QCf52Nc3e4Zb5pYcaxVp-qOwxMcy1_UeOq4dj2eoosDKPPu1nn_NFprcMpgg2VTpScIhJBK6ILd-dQN5SckVOIKRXKRTmO7DrJF1ialnQNWtyT03tinf/s320/DSC05186.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441165242999368866" /></a><br />On the mountainside along the lake, potatoes are grown in stone-terraced fields. The detailed stonework of these terraces may date back to the Incan era.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQbvi9bqwDJ3nQo0zbBYZdIaS1dgwvxANknNq-faDl1g2h_oJzmoYkrONqJw__fgq5Te_yQj9VZcPa7sKJiCq9e3_VRRQoxgLjojY31ixLA5zo9uQowzvm1sjOdLpzHI23I_PuYboOFp3E/s1600-h/DSC05188.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQbvi9bqwDJ3nQo0zbBYZdIaS1dgwvxANknNq-faDl1g2h_oJzmoYkrONqJw__fgq5Te_yQj9VZcPa7sKJiCq9e3_VRRQoxgLjojY31ixLA5zo9uQowzvm1sjOdLpzHI23I_PuYboOFp3E/s320/DSC05188.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441165404046888242" /></a><br />Obviously, the efficiency of these fields can’t hold a candle to the efficiency of a potato farm in Idaho or Maine where there are huge, level fields and mechanized operations. <br /><br />Here is an interesting means of transporting one’s wife:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2d9khn39Eyh3Fu9FnA3sb_fOEWIYMAsUq3H1QkXIOpgp7LUQ_wmgrKYzWeraYPCOgMffiOsT5xzgl5ylA4Ig21V24i6EyKoAg_2dhBH6aazo6iRy6PBOq4Rk_cZ-zMFWlu4KAmbjDieSF/s1600-h/DSC05192.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2d9khn39Eyh3Fu9FnA3sb_fOEWIYMAsUq3H1QkXIOpgp7LUQ_wmgrKYzWeraYPCOgMffiOsT5xzgl5ylA4Ig21V24i6EyKoAg_2dhBH6aazo6iRy6PBOq4Rk_cZ-zMFWlu4KAmbjDieSF/s320/DSC05192.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441165729927926418" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj39Ls7tziptvk0i9fVkLw7sOZ6IS8tHythoZltzeTrL9ARISB74W7wRW4FqGWTk_fnetvHj07M5cJokCHSFXwUtrGbsd1khFA_EvmpoZV02w2ooVw3wU0YYi3jZ6cvMRw6w1FrM7uBCaTQ/s1600-h/DSC05193.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj39Ls7tziptvk0i9fVkLw7sOZ6IS8tHythoZltzeTrL9ARISB74W7wRW4FqGWTk_fnetvHj07M5cJokCHSFXwUtrGbsd1khFA_EvmpoZV02w2ooVw3wU0YYi3jZ6cvMRw6w1FrM7uBCaTQ/s320/DSC05193.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441165680011002050" /></a><br />All of the towns along our route had their own market day on Sunday.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4nR89za4EvU775nVsSO7_qVfpTWd8P0gfcCGg34VW3spxfbpYcBAa90TcNsEvcyv904Yp01VrlJfRuJPyuJw3jyZ9LEBeBHKOyv0MV8EqtLq_CZiDVBCpOJ_ASmnzqXAE6kvjQXTj9oFK/s1600-h/DSC05205.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4nR89za4EvU775nVsSO7_qVfpTWd8P0gfcCGg34VW3spxfbpYcBAa90TcNsEvcyv904Yp01VrlJfRuJPyuJw3jyZ9LEBeBHKOyv0MV8EqtLq_CZiDVBCpOJ_ASmnzqXAE6kvjQXTj9oFK/s320/DSC05205.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441165901259415538" /></a><br />For unknown reasons, some of the people here feel the need to decorate their cars:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOIQWgMBpPJehKy_qHQ13BbIYd3mlhGzw8qQinNYuVXflkQW4Gv-Urb0cACBnBMfEgnrtxj99Jwh-dhJ23HkNeBJtvgpxtjdnolXZ4rAnhfVywCJPUxP5VcXzNx-EuPiy9I7LYtWXTD5EV/s1600-h/DSC05208.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOIQWgMBpPJehKy_qHQ13BbIYd3mlhGzw8qQinNYuVXflkQW4Gv-Urb0cACBnBMfEgnrtxj99Jwh-dhJ23HkNeBJtvgpxtjdnolXZ4rAnhfVywCJPUxP5VcXzNx-EuPiy9I7LYtWXTD5EV/s320/DSC05208.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441166156807601234" /></a><br />Another perplexing sight is large number of obese Indian women in traditional dress – this appears to be a serious public health problem here.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-sLWp_jYaoT-GrbzlfjD-dHW6G6MEZRTdB-NIyFjuxKjvRpZ-_fSJ7NQedB9lu1_sInSLxhDiDjeLMpzGU23hmAe0Vc3oohoT_LnCJcEacsIjpqn_6f043JdicD-IHwv6dTUoC_kkWf9T/s1600-h/DSC05210.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-sLWp_jYaoT-GrbzlfjD-dHW6G6MEZRTdB-NIyFjuxKjvRpZ-_fSJ7NQedB9lu1_sInSLxhDiDjeLMpzGU23hmAe0Vc3oohoT_LnCJcEacsIjpqn_6f043JdicD-IHwv6dTUoC_kkWf9T/s320/DSC05210.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441166502828480978" /></a><br />Just for the experience, we decided to take a ferry across a small isthmus. The large gaps in the floor of this barge, which is designed to be used by cars, made it a bit precarious for our motorcycles:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJOU680s-LCZ59fRbZLnAciO7QLauAAY9gr3kySHLiTV8cQEj7u1TYt5RB-4FjR02a1RxrlA61v6H4bOtw9xi0BccFrkN8r1dpPNxmVK_NEPy1cQf6wImwuTe13SDTJntyjVfUrSywwBqh/s1600-h/DSC05239.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJOU680s-LCZ59fRbZLnAciO7QLauAAY9gr3kySHLiTV8cQEj7u1TYt5RB-4FjR02a1RxrlA61v6H4bOtw9xi0BccFrkN8r1dpPNxmVK_NEPy1cQf6wImwuTe13SDTJntyjVfUrSywwBqh/s320/DSC05239.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441166737547539458" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-TTK8Xs2jIUAfBn6JDoAOHgYBEVIOhJ_eKXCVSi91VLX_lZ19z5mv8EP01UgB1ZdcjIdnD6T2y7_1buoU2xzSef4kl90ZoTAiYvyF6gsPzSinmajpWpPPvMH3bfyEyYEGKoP7E-7LFgHE/s1600-h/DSC05240.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-TTK8Xs2jIUAfBn6JDoAOHgYBEVIOhJ_eKXCVSi91VLX_lZ19z5mv8EP01UgB1ZdcjIdnD6T2y7_1buoU2xzSef4kl90ZoTAiYvyF6gsPzSinmajpWpPPvMH3bfyEyYEGKoP7E-7LFgHE/s320/DSC05240.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441166679362185186" /></a><br />The barges are powered only by outboard motor but could manage three cars in addition to our bikes.<br /><br />As we approached La Paz, we encountered natives in strange costumes – is this some sort of special Sunday dress?<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDj7EX1Cx1tsraP77gHkMGTtf_miWgbdJ1NsKSLIPYxrwR805dcsbq5dcxIYeu0c46dp-fdUYLi4SvCFJFwJxn5OuTqq7uxehyaA98ddlmwWX4l8AkUcommUdMtMAeJmcDCk45JDUWDP69/s1600-h/DSC05257.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDj7EX1Cx1tsraP77gHkMGTtf_miWgbdJ1NsKSLIPYxrwR805dcsbq5dcxIYeu0c46dp-fdUYLi4SvCFJFwJxn5OuTqq7uxehyaA98ddlmwWX4l8AkUcommUdMtMAeJmcDCk45JDUWDP69/s320/DSC05257.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441166915926996466" /></a><br />Over a pass, we were able to look down on La Paz – located at an elevation of 12,000 feet, it is the world's highest capital city. La Paz sits in a bowl surrounded by the high altiplano. As it grows, La Paz climbs the hills, resulting in varying elevations from 9,840 ft to 13,450 feet within the city limits. La Paz has a population of approximately 900,000; when combined with the neighboring cities of El Alto and Viacha, Metro La Paz is the most populous urban area of Bolivia with a population of more than 2.3 million.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOYtV_VEHioUl_ZCkJqIXkvdmlG3qvU0PomhUslR3PRvnzNye3Lo__h3WuFcVbc2H6VWZc7AV2LNt5S8sAZJLcS8rIT8AKZYur_TvJGugMlViJnuIyYImivyRMAjKvWEwvK-Zpc8vgrqlJ/s1600-h/DSC05287.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOYtV_VEHioUl_ZCkJqIXkvdmlG3qvU0PomhUslR3PRvnzNye3Lo__h3WuFcVbc2H6VWZc7AV2LNt5S8sAZJLcS8rIT8AKZYur_TvJGugMlViJnuIyYImivyRMAjKvWEwvK-Zpc8vgrqlJ/s320/DSC05287.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441167045141414274" /></a><br />Entering the city, we observed that this was not a normal Sunday—there was riotous behavior in the streets, and we were bombarded with water balloons, shaving cream, squirt guns and buckets of water as we attempted to pass.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsXuaT7cOTthm5UbV7A8rz5BkuG2B7breoDByoUxK90cHl7V0awfvhqnK6l2LXHsdGkdwYhqYLUIDQVi_23xMzcVAOOV6tndPuCyYxgr9x8j3hui_SxXe5qL2sm86Oxb4MnDHQjqMIuIvd/s1600-h/DSC05291.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsXuaT7cOTthm5UbV7A8rz5BkuG2B7breoDByoUxK90cHl7V0awfvhqnK6l2LXHsdGkdwYhqYLUIDQVi_23xMzcVAOOV6tndPuCyYxgr9x8j3hui_SxXe5qL2sm86Oxb4MnDHQjqMIuIvd/s320/DSC05291.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441167393008097762" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCtsk9l-16dqXx7DiIoWF1UABK0BX3BbprbEBqhu6foUD96xaD69ExPm1k1JYt8EiBTfXwVMqLBsydQvkh5XDUq-MpAiwFRxZu9J4KW7zib5TYYQkTZGy9VItooruruRJU8adAyGpHzK1i/s1600-h/DSC05292.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCtsk9l-16dqXx7DiIoWF1UABK0BX3BbprbEBqhu6foUD96xaD69ExPm1k1JYt8EiBTfXwVMqLBsydQvkh5XDUq-MpAiwFRxZu9J4KW7zib5TYYQkTZGy9VItooruruRJU8adAyGpHzK1i/s320/DSC05292.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441167336856158130" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBRwQXwZn3Av0eZjOVtGL8FImzSa2zDNVNq4_a2pcVzJFF1_VKldpu6mYHfDsiblIjf8zXPNUSPDcev3sPBAyGK__M6tLfcloDb077Tch107t9I4ZMedJeoINdHhdmQd4T8ir6NMlUCcZ/s1600-h/DSC05293.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBRwQXwZn3Av0eZjOVtGL8FImzSa2zDNVNq4_a2pcVzJFF1_VKldpu6mYHfDsiblIjf8zXPNUSPDcev3sPBAyGK__M6tLfcloDb077Tch107t9I4ZMedJeoINdHhdmQd4T8ir6NMlUCcZ/s320/DSC05293.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441167186551532114" /></a><br />The festival seemed to be something akin to Halloween.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk2pZ1JaGgF1Lxa3XPvgfE_gPs0snc9rWq1VdpcEEZjAkLFbyvN_AqBM3-wAYQyAZ5fkOYyqJ5D7a1pYA5qfUnSkw5m8TIbteu1dLHsYy7owZub_POi9NOVyIW_xEiIS8UQRbxSaxidyy0/s1600-h/DSC05294.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk2pZ1JaGgF1Lxa3XPvgfE_gPs0snc9rWq1VdpcEEZjAkLFbyvN_AqBM3-wAYQyAZ5fkOYyqJ5D7a1pYA5qfUnSkw5m8TIbteu1dLHsYy7owZub_POi9NOVyIW_xEiIS8UQRbxSaxidyy0/s320/DSC05294.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441167576859187586" /></a><br />There were some orderly processions on display as well . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4RyMMGyiI6_efSFqY9TG2BgMqqzuBAlozInkvtR-2o-pbJM1rZ8i_kp54nj4QfItH_EwLFVB1XbIaT8hXz8NNAHITQbmFP3OY6qx7FnzGac5_CXoVvuXXOUW8XMpC628wHpnXzYfAumdx/s1600-h/DSC05306.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4RyMMGyiI6_efSFqY9TG2BgMqqzuBAlozInkvtR-2o-pbJM1rZ8i_kp54nj4QfItH_EwLFVB1XbIaT8hXz8NNAHITQbmFP3OY6qx7FnzGac5_CXoVvuXXOUW8XMpC628wHpnXzYfAumdx/s320/DSC05306.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441167707900327810" /></a><br />We headed to the summit of La Cumbre, where there is a large statue of Christ…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjksxEj7gsb5YMadmHwLrZOUlaLg8mT4mHvGoezhre-1yMajhPdh5lhz3mSSl3B8tYz4sPaHsJiUSqI78VGbyDbD70zSF4S_wNpdbmlFTA8toum0zDw-YSsO3ht3OQJ2kKSdBUqxbycfPeQ/s1600-h/DSC05313.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjksxEj7gsb5YMadmHwLrZOUlaLg8mT4mHvGoezhre-1yMajhPdh5lhz3mSSl3B8tYz4sPaHsJiUSqI78VGbyDbD70zSF4S_wNpdbmlFTA8toum0zDw-YSsO3ht3OQJ2kKSdBUqxbycfPeQ/s320/DSC05313.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441167862171844354" /></a><br />But we ultimately headed back through the gauntlet of revelers and were again pummeled with buckets of water. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1JyG6BVFBP4-LSzdMqR4ztMs6OPZ7me2FvoMjlnv53Yh56YEDMEUzq6EEUAUqOzlsEzUfgGs6oT7c5u7Vmy6JLNVeZaO9dHLrUW_DKlB03O6VYrX1SAxZAAIQib5NrsEOIf2oojH2Rf_G/s1600-h/DSC05329.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1JyG6BVFBP4-LSzdMqR4ztMs6OPZ7me2FvoMjlnv53Yh56YEDMEUzq6EEUAUqOzlsEzUfgGs6oT7c5u7Vmy6JLNVeZaO9dHLrUW_DKlB03O6VYrX1SAxZAAIQib5NrsEOIf2oojH2Rf_G/s320/DSC05329.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441167991812161170" /></a><br />Someone launched a water balloon from atop a building, nailing me squarely in the back of my helmet, sending water streaming down my back. Fortunately, the balloon had been filled with tap water and not with the water in the ditches alongside the road. <br /><br />We later learned that we arrived in the midst of Carnaval, which is held this year from February 12 to February 16. The idea of joining in on Carnaval’s evening festivities was appealing, but we were all extremely tired and wound up checking into a reasonable downtown hotel for our two-day stay in the city. <br /><br /><strong><em>February 15</em></strong><br />In the morning, we opted for the thrill ride along the world’s most dangerous road. The North Yungas Road in Bolivia is legendary for its extreme danger: about 100 travelers annually are killed on the road. It descends from 12,000 to 1,000 feet, transitioning from a cool altiplano (high plain) to rain forest.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgwaxgZS8rGVj8Ng6CgVub3smNN69MP7yQqvmNcN5SIb7dJdEoKD3kIhpi-ur1Ine89KgHmUUoFzWyxzmYTfTtTzQs2ViCTvIxrpBVdkhHF10Z5EnEQBEbOzbwDf-Kjt4_JT5CGlpWS7fP/s1600-h/nyungas.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgwaxgZS8rGVj8Ng6CgVub3smNN69MP7yQqvmNcN5SIb7dJdEoKD3kIhpi-ur1Ine89KgHmUUoFzWyxzmYTfTtTzQs2ViCTvIxrpBVdkhHF10Z5EnEQBEbOzbwDf-Kjt4_JT5CGlpWS7fP/s320/nyungas.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441168230877300466" /></a><br />We headed up the mountain towards La Cumbre (around 13,000 ft) . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfoWWl4MrB_8lnLeBrmBWlO1iTnRfkk3xD8N8iXvuOaGSglRdkxNOjn-pT_pmT8T_RNfGxs8zDCFu_GipArbrYkhFJiBSUYstHHJJ2wozPjx8rKovTT9OcFXMslfXPgRZrDrXs7st0bOsr/s1600-h/DSC05352.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfoWWl4MrB_8lnLeBrmBWlO1iTnRfkk3xD8N8iXvuOaGSglRdkxNOjn-pT_pmT8T_RNfGxs8zDCFu_GipArbrYkhFJiBSUYstHHJJ2wozPjx8rKovTT9OcFXMslfXPgRZrDrXs7st0bOsr/s320/DSC05352.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441168478191859250" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ro5HbEHPpbwLgRrD3MEC15N5kay34hoxmNyaCfpTYwmhOD-YEXnwGXQGXnjZAdIVhX3y44FcKgrMKGGPOtbyeoDcF_FUrvYUWpVQlGlbmHo0cBKp1jNBSl5lRvh9PjR94_AW-K6swDI7/s1600-h/DSC05356.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ro5HbEHPpbwLgRrD3MEC15N5kay34hoxmNyaCfpTYwmhOD-YEXnwGXQGXnjZAdIVhX3y44FcKgrMKGGPOtbyeoDcF_FUrvYUWpVQlGlbmHo0cBKp1jNBSl5lRvh9PjR94_AW-K6swDI7/s320/DSC05356.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441168396780275842" /></a><br />And found the remnants of revelers from the previous night— an empty bottle of pure grain alcohol:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7gfkwCvJ2NvJIl6Xql5PG4c2utDYKvaH_u6wci46mKh1xn-fdH9t7D3lbiICpt4Kpvw4tEZdxJLRxCwnBPkYiQ83oInqCl53UeelHkElGP677yOFVwe1uLOTLSKVOfX6sJnkctWDj6hAJ/s1600-h/DSC05364.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7gfkwCvJ2NvJIl6Xql5PG4c2utDYKvaH_u6wci46mKh1xn-fdH9t7D3lbiICpt4Kpvw4tEZdxJLRxCwnBPkYiQ83oInqCl53UeelHkElGP677yOFVwe1uLOTLSKVOfX6sJnkctWDj6hAJ/s320/DSC05364.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441168613292796706" /></a><br />From the top, we got our first view of the North Yungas:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEZR8DC6vsJI7to_rTrbHXBQK7O346S-aYoGOuWSiQ_nd4Ho5VVHanJCVPH21AktC-kQb4IbRyRgrZeoN_LJVjKOj08fX3LWD1KMf_2nFoyA7qcpIJXCczwl1TciU0H-jApri2K3EisOfr/s1600-h/DSC05368.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEZR8DC6vsJI7to_rTrbHXBQK7O346S-aYoGOuWSiQ_nd4Ho5VVHanJCVPH21AktC-kQb4IbRyRgrZeoN_LJVjKOj08fX3LWD1KMf_2nFoyA7qcpIJXCczwl1TciU0H-jApri2K3EisOfr/s320/DSC05368.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441168747055455186" /></a><br />At the outset, the road was paved and the scenery magnificent:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo0j31dwnvTN1eJFJACCjNzVI5baSzWPTMyIMY6BXb1IOHrhvw7u7yVlGnhj-wPPQauwTKGhE5rR7vM8-p2YCeqbUyzl9YPG1_am4FhUDbMJh3ksh-sLP3r2U2m-CGe3NuXJUy1PBXYg70/s1600-h/DSC05378.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo0j31dwnvTN1eJFJACCjNzVI5baSzWPTMyIMY6BXb1IOHrhvw7u7yVlGnhj-wPPQauwTKGhE5rR7vM8-p2YCeqbUyzl9YPG1_am4FhUDbMJh3ksh-sLP3r2U2m-CGe3NuXJUy1PBXYg70/s320/DSC05378.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441169032213794194" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmtlXC_P2aoGNFEHp9wcdETR5eaT7WW1CXrfuuwcAiS6CN7v3ZTkIrYOpyjqTOQXdv8PEhyphenhyphen66SVHsz5MgB3NZwjFQhrFpO0N3e-3SLFocBKmRTzGpOzdswonhBfMDz1izaPe9nj-dZshU8/s1600-h/DSC05379.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmtlXC_P2aoGNFEHp9wcdETR5eaT7WW1CXrfuuwcAiS6CN7v3ZTkIrYOpyjqTOQXdv8PEhyphenhyphen66SVHsz5MgB3NZwjFQhrFpO0N3e-3SLFocBKmRTzGpOzdswonhBfMDz1izaPe9nj-dZshU8/s320/DSC05379.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441168973587579810" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1CV8zpL2IG6Wn5GSBYS4JTdZAdNEQ7TRETJfZ0vlR49gPTQMO1zFHhoc8lzIWsXaFRp3JIwztIVDTpxDrOYcr-4tWM5w8fmh8MltjGI_AZokHPtPStZKPTmuht1CsGIENIHvJhfuwY1Im/s1600-h/DSC05400.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1CV8zpL2IG6Wn5GSBYS4JTdZAdNEQ7TRETJfZ0vlR49gPTQMO1zFHhoc8lzIWsXaFRp3JIwztIVDTpxDrOYcr-4tWM5w8fmh8MltjGI_AZokHPtPStZKPTmuht1CsGIENIHvJhfuwY1Im/s320/DSC05400.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441168922119671458" /></a><br />Here is a sign marking Chulumani, the capital of the Sud Yungas region in Bolivia:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL7j3yDjBdD_hblk-1mC6lcaa6xiAE10JmFBaa8xJY2EPG0lR_CEot-MYJWlwENzmBJryMUhnET8j9ElGK7leHJtf2i5HU5e9O1I8uydFJshBCgbCU0nrr31rf2tGU72wbrZl17Jj7SfTw/s1600-h/DSC05419.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL7j3yDjBdD_hblk-1mC6lcaa6xiAE10JmFBaa8xJY2EPG0lR_CEot-MYJWlwENzmBJryMUhnET8j9ElGK7leHJtf2i5HU5e9O1I8uydFJshBCgbCU0nrr31rf2tGU72wbrZl17Jj7SfTw/s320/DSC05419.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441169188943244834" /></a><br />There was a Polish excursion riding mountain bikes along this road – normally the mountain bikers also use the North Yungas route, but with three recent deaths they opted for the safer route.<br /><br />Having read several web pages about the North Yungas, we are a bit apprehensive and nervous and lower our tires 10 psi each for better grip. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtljG8GTNmwm_IbfzBkqtAFIedgXt8wDLwpdRp5n2VutLQUaEgj3kOoUML8y1JzeoZnpdBmxVGdLkFm0EXYNhtwvuumJCENOlP6vbTE8cgVSCk1jH1J84j7juRz0sZQuPSbbfPMiDpXXU5/s1600-h/DSC05587.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtljG8GTNmwm_IbfzBkqtAFIedgXt8wDLwpdRp5n2VutLQUaEgj3kOoUML8y1JzeoZnpdBmxVGdLkFm0EXYNhtwvuumJCENOlP6vbTE8cgVSCk1jH1J84j7juRz0sZQuPSbbfPMiDpXXU5/s320/DSC05587.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441169343925269346" /></a><br />. . .but it turns out to be a delightful ride and a beautiful road.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWKiotYESNjkH-w6BvbDTkpqR7n2lSUUoVCztXAT5H9DB3mmtovM700uEokW-khY1plbhK5EGHoJ4k-MORFEQiYTx1KMcfe0WVKWerIq216q_Y31Njgst0UaDcxQal8-eOttMtzzW9DM1r/s1600-h/DSC05431.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWKiotYESNjkH-w6BvbDTkpqR7n2lSUUoVCztXAT5H9DB3mmtovM700uEokW-khY1plbhK5EGHoJ4k-MORFEQiYTx1KMcfe0WVKWerIq216q_Y31Njgst0UaDcxQal8-eOttMtzzW9DM1r/s320/DSC05431.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441169477887774850" /></a><br />Along the way, we passed memorials for those who have died on the road – this one is from 2007: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzAQKbb8LIXfKkgr5HMR3mdFd6e2Te1tbY9Qz53EywDJ3LZ-66awkYLDtItm4bCrsbcB6NWN2uUa4bGN7weXPm9OIhSA1NYHOzmPwSlLo25MCLDe0JWr_A91lPLl1mEnWXbSwZk1V5C1Xh/s1600-h/DSC05435.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzAQKbb8LIXfKkgr5HMR3mdFd6e2Te1tbY9Qz53EywDJ3LZ-66awkYLDtItm4bCrsbcB6NWN2uUa4bGN7weXPm9OIhSA1NYHOzmPwSlLo25MCLDe0JWr_A91lPLl1mEnWXbSwZk1V5C1Xh/s320/DSC05435.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441169626252213058" /></a><br />In many places, there are blind hairpin turns where the shoulder of the road drops a thousand feet – “the end of the road” takes on a whole new meaning. . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjonbg86zGlEfpkiScI90b2P32IYUipUUxTiMBYj7qdTPeMnQYzW1CCbyVeT9zWuHIDyoko0h1mfZ7HBVz0uoJRbS8HdRryh5ARVcpIQES6_aq9pXisw0VJz22SEqp3BqjhN7EOnJIiH51T/s1600-h/DSC05550.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjonbg86zGlEfpkiScI90b2P32IYUipUUxTiMBYj7qdTPeMnQYzW1CCbyVeT9zWuHIDyoko0h1mfZ7HBVz0uoJRbS8HdRryh5ARVcpIQES6_aq9pXisw0VJz22SEqp3BqjhN7EOnJIiH51T/s320/DSC05550.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441169897381369202" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX7lqdgmmgXj4ehx5BWwQVvGw-MC5RwZg8q16LP6u0oBeE1qz-4KYNTsHPzxQv_07YpwtVpa4lMCpvyBBZ0ZCq72Cujtd4KA8LR-xtEKsk5jHdXpncdEzdAF87KPwd5rlY3TDiZjB_NhB8/s1600-h/DSC05441.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX7lqdgmmgXj4ehx5BWwQVvGw-MC5RwZg8q16LP6u0oBeE1qz-4KYNTsHPzxQv_07YpwtVpa4lMCpvyBBZ0ZCq72Cujtd4KA8LR-xtEKsk5jHdXpncdEzdAF87KPwd5rlY3TDiZjB_NhB8/s320/DSC05441.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441169824734247458" /></a><br />There are no guard rails…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhualPxkXYLlKWIY65rgn8K-egLNido99glW6V42SX716_6QqtZSVwz5soPy9TsyHZnop1vTqrGmx3C5wqmAVghf0vZXER6lhKac5-M0zScUqW0lq4nMfM_92RlpMOrzjpbdaWcVcxzZ3H-/s1600-h/DSC05453.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhualPxkXYLlKWIY65rgn8K-egLNido99glW6V42SX716_6QqtZSVwz5soPy9TsyHZnop1vTqrGmx3C5wqmAVghf0vZXER6lhKac5-M0zScUqW0lq4nMfM_92RlpMOrzjpbdaWcVcxzZ3H-/s320/DSC05453.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441170101907692178" /></a><br />But the biggest risk by far is the oncoming traffic.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUzqYuuWevMwm3xTuzC8eJiSuMtzjZGomu9siesfYBCRCZZVUY8PxRqVHrdcZ7HvQ3a8ayZuTLOCbMHnr7rAdPNt-5ko_HB5uDqG3tAjk8lnEkJnBVzQpFbNlMQ1STvily62sernAAEb_t/s1600-h/DSC05465.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUzqYuuWevMwm3xTuzC8eJiSuMtzjZGomu9siesfYBCRCZZVUY8PxRqVHrdcZ7HvQ3a8ayZuTLOCbMHnr7rAdPNt-5ko_HB5uDqG3tAjk8lnEkJnBVzQpFbNlMQ1STvily62sernAAEb_t/s320/DSC05465.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441170297548983842" /></a><br />There are various turnouts for passing – but often you are not near one when you need one, and you need to squeeze by (going down the hill is not as nerve-racking as going up it, because generally you are riding on the inside of the pass). But as usually is the case, size matters, and the larger vehicle chooses the side on which it wants to pass. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtXBs4dCvyG7maX7fMjujfM_9DNivSl2Hcw-v-aUHPwuZp9SN3ZwabN_6Ft1sxPNEQU6jfOUiEDacIBQFv6Kr8tM-x4wirmAKTps7uJtOkEgJcAOzru6lGvYyv9Dc9zoHkF7yTti0mbHBX/s1600-h/DSC05541.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtXBs4dCvyG7maX7fMjujfM_9DNivSl2Hcw-v-aUHPwuZp9SN3ZwabN_6Ft1sxPNEQU6jfOUiEDacIBQFv6Kr8tM-x4wirmAKTps7uJtOkEgJcAOzru6lGvYyv9Dc9zoHkF7yTti0mbHBX/s320/DSC05541.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441170539863952082" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJTCLn7J_2UJWvZOtx6XJjFBwDFHJascP3wFpnZo3ipqFe39-jbFoPnNy7b8tsw0nWLtYqHI4ffDOiViDxqMHcsoKZYywnLSorvJQpv4Zl78EVy_T9OwrV542fpTReXZd-mChAU98832pa/s1600-h/DSC05577.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJTCLn7J_2UJWvZOtx6XJjFBwDFHJascP3wFpnZo3ipqFe39-jbFoPnNy7b8tsw0nWLtYqHI4ffDOiViDxqMHcsoKZYywnLSorvJQpv4Zl78EVy_T9OwrV542fpTReXZd-mChAU98832pa/s320/DSC05577.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441170464603117394" /></a><br />Normally, large rigs ascending the hill on the outside pass watch the front tire in relation to the falloff; but, as you are watching the tire and the edge, you sometimes don’t see the vehicle ahead of you, and this is what caused the deaths of 100 people on this road when two buses met head-on.<br /><br />Roger, with Vince right on his tail, came around a corner stopping only a foot in front of a bus with two other buses trailing it. He plans to go to church next Sunday.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivOTePhfheAmc8W9NEB7Rmy3BC28_fb69s5TbvQdhF5rDiDtqmSmCRqdov0ODkzFShs_2r7lzIWUMBnm-VP5RbD5LDR6OLyV1YJZyAPxcLyWqM_BEOG1XoxgpheJFjCPwyOQ198p77ElZd/s1600-h/DSC05530.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivOTePhfheAmc8W9NEB7Rmy3BC28_fb69s5TbvQdhF5rDiDtqmSmCRqdov0ODkzFShs_2r7lzIWUMBnm-VP5RbD5LDR6OLyV1YJZyAPxcLyWqM_BEOG1XoxgpheJFjCPwyOQ198p77ElZd/s320/DSC05530.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441170702160016082" /></a><br />There were streams running down steep slopes and under the road.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNOQ5B6bAyXaM8HySjT2e6-oEZ1-2D1pBk8W41TTw8_JYgZfyoBqJI4bz4m5hBN8-iQEy7rHqhaQAI7xui7LlNm1-wcO5UVafAdXsM1lYo8K9BcnGfW0UZjuUqIMG1mUYLIKgYrT7yc7uQ/s1600-h/DSC05492.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNOQ5B6bAyXaM8HySjT2e6-oEZ1-2D1pBk8W41TTw8_JYgZfyoBqJI4bz4m5hBN8-iQEy7rHqhaQAI7xui7LlNm1-wcO5UVafAdXsM1lYo8K9BcnGfW0UZjuUqIMG1mUYLIKgYrT7yc7uQ/s320/DSC05492.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441171044507567618" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMhfgc_EtmlRH96618EwcXK3DymA0zxHtvLdmbWX19rLGx1nzH78_lZaqnt0Tc6n3fLRpINU4OSE-HFQh1WoqTECImim_vvsMIHGVARnp_tDfoWOo9XBzRE3VGxIURi85lzjBzV_iQAigR/s1600-h/DSC05472.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMhfgc_EtmlRH96618EwcXK3DymA0zxHtvLdmbWX19rLGx1nzH78_lZaqnt0Tc6n3fLRpINU4OSE-HFQh1WoqTECImim_vvsMIHGVARnp_tDfoWOo9XBzRE3VGxIURi85lzjBzV_iQAigR/s320/DSC05472.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441170850960402626" /></a><br />As we descended in altitude, we ran into patches of rainforest: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHFacpNIP25aV5K6DBACmi_jcHTCP5V1eKfVuQO1s7M6Bnc2jlH5_uzSHzFGg58I6YOh0LYvj5V31890CVwSf9EhAg0khJ8taGfNDqWUdT0LhDCdXzxnzfS_Km858J60JdITs-EprWpns/s1600-h/DSC05470.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHFacpNIP25aV5K6DBACmi_jcHTCP5V1eKfVuQO1s7M6Bnc2jlH5_uzSHzFGg58I6YOh0LYvj5V31890CVwSf9EhAg0khJ8taGfNDqWUdT0LhDCdXzxnzfS_Km858J60JdITs-EprWpns/s320/DSC05470.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441171270124211714" /></a><br />There were steep undercuts—not a place to be under when the ground rumbles!<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijp6tH9z77h_9Jw9qWCOvkkOnSy6lN6KpVICc9gAb_aaW1UaNfjvfwvejAfv1KenSmlWNHDwPiItUObkXDp3Op8aMsWjtwG1lRQZRFr0FEEyu0gVBa7GrhNF0UxGFU9XUq6uWfmnXXti6a/s1600-h/DSC05483.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijp6tH9z77h_9Jw9qWCOvkkOnSy6lN6KpVICc9gAb_aaW1UaNfjvfwvejAfv1KenSmlWNHDwPiItUObkXDp3Op8aMsWjtwG1lRQZRFr0FEEyu0gVBa7GrhNF0UxGFU9XUq6uWfmnXXti6a/s320/DSC05483.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441171431818327522" /></a><br />The road is unpaved but has a good rock and gravel surface:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBDKfIU6b75g9wL9LvryyV6hpsXTY8X21FVjT2Wtm8r7CdIH-XUziEDubTe1J9Q0Fjaj5KEGrqv5lNHd6sQeEiyJjnqHbkPOCuM5-1ZgoHVbC_yo_ERiRqlby8z6tRPKxUKdDYF_xQ3tGM/s1600-h/DSC05485.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBDKfIU6b75g9wL9LvryyV6hpsXTY8X21FVjT2Wtm8r7CdIH-XUziEDubTe1J9Q0Fjaj5KEGrqv5lNHd6sQeEiyJjnqHbkPOCuM5-1ZgoHVbC_yo_ERiRqlby8z6tRPKxUKdDYF_xQ3tGM/s320/DSC05485.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441171654911814642" /></a><br />We came across a man with his wife and children who told us about a hotel he had just built on a salt flat in Uyuni, Bolivia. We told him to reserve rooms for us and changed our plans so we could go there.<br /><br />We had lunch at a lovely mountain chalet which had fallen into decay and was formerly owned by a Bolivian ex-president:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv3iWpSV2XM5wTQl5hLLiV1oTRG726sILgdL3thIgDGQRvwF-Gb5deQTrZHIBUin1sVLYPth5Zj_PuNGKsjovHwrMWjbeRl_joRY8cpba5tC-_W8Uz5Wqn_1AU8IWscKn13k45wd7q2gu_/s1600-h/DSC05507.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv3iWpSV2XM5wTQl5hLLiV1oTRG726sILgdL3thIgDGQRvwF-Gb5deQTrZHIBUin1sVLYPth5Zj_PuNGKsjovHwrMWjbeRl_joRY8cpba5tC-_W8Uz5Wqn_1AU8IWscKn13k45wd7q2gu_/s320/DSC05507.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441171819097463458" /></a><br />Following lunch, we turned around and headed back up the mountain towards La Cumbre on our return to La Paz. It was the end of the day and the clouds were rolling in.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLS8YCmVghM_M3Am2RWUH6hTC_a_Q5ODmZDMvzBtwzjxOdl2cVX0nT2Dt932q4DyQHNdSKJGZ3Yu13crFtMRmY_Z5FAyE7SJO0IFP9zlhZWzHkjxlxjQVcyXAXCOsR0ZnfL0m5wIMMqFQx/s1600-h/DSC05594.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLS8YCmVghM_M3Am2RWUH6hTC_a_Q5ODmZDMvzBtwzjxOdl2cVX0nT2Dt932q4DyQHNdSKJGZ3Yu13crFtMRmY_Z5FAyE7SJO0IFP9zlhZWzHkjxlxjQVcyXAXCOsR0ZnfL0m5wIMMqFQx/s320/DSC05594.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441172047768294674" /></a><br />My bike is looking very dirty, but, more importantly, my tire is balding and I realize I need to be extra-cautious.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfdEhJ4qnAFtZClF-xeuC5zBwa465j3uRecKKz8wd7OW55p0JW0QBJuMj4bcQUGO7qUK7BHqqIsT2UIQvpCWqfsPZBigsVijXUHCfy_cOFpt5ooPM-iH-mZ9dOONwfb8EGy0zy-mBiJRfV/s1600-h/DSC05606.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfdEhJ4qnAFtZClF-xeuC5zBwa465j3uRecKKz8wd7OW55p0JW0QBJuMj4bcQUGO7qUK7BHqqIsT2UIQvpCWqfsPZBigsVijXUHCfy_cOFpt5ooPM-iH-mZ9dOONwfb8EGy0zy-mBiJRfV/s320/DSC05606.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441172275204152914" /></a><br />As we headed back up the mountain, my fuel gauge read 10 gallons and we had 10 miles to go – perfect calculation. When we returned to La Paz, we again ran into Carnaval and again were pummeled with shaving cream and water. <br /><br />I looked forward to reaching the hotel and a hot shower.<br /><br /><br /><strong><em>February 16</em></strong><br />Early the next morning, we pulled out of La Paz headed for Oruro. The streets were nearly vacant except for some stragglers from the ongoing Carnaval – yes, it’s still going on.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipjKIM2mIU7-yLv2jeCbaswNnndq6qEJcTwACn_wHbJX9fcr8ibojjCsh-OmRsZotUFiZFk_57Q01ijb3VL50n5kbkZ2IGFvSrWo4oX1V0pZfa0PBJ1xa3UkqmmNeeQb9sAPsX_IsjcohW/s1600-h/DSC05617.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipjKIM2mIU7-yLv2jeCbaswNnndq6qEJcTwACn_wHbJX9fcr8ibojjCsh-OmRsZotUFiZFk_57Q01ijb3VL50n5kbkZ2IGFvSrWo4oX1V0pZfa0PBJ1xa3UkqmmNeeQb9sAPsX_IsjcohW/s320/DSC05617.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441172500705525586" /></a><br />The best known Carnaval celebration in Bolivia is the Carnaval of Oruro. In Oruro, the Carnaval tells the story of how the Spaniards conquered the Aymara and Quechua populations of the Andes. Some dancers wear costumes that represent the robes worn by Spanish Catholic priests who attempted to convert the indigenous peoples to Catholicism. Other costumes represent the Spanish conquerors themselves, complete with 16th century Spanish helmets, swords, and even horses (which were unknown in the Americas until European explorers brought them over on ships).<br /><br />The best day to enjoy the Carnaval is the first day. Unfortunately, the traditional accompaniment to Carnaval is vast amounts of alcohol which dancers believe will help them have the energy and stamina to dance; so after the first day, the streets are filled with many heavily doused dancers.<br /><br />Another interesting fact: in the 1980's the saya (a native Bolivian dance that is also part of the Carnaval of Oruro) was copied by a Brazilian singer called Kaoma. She gave it a little Brazilian twist and it became known around the world as the famous LAMBADA. However, she was later sued by the Bolivian group that owns the song and had to give them credit for it. Other than translate the song to Portuguese, she hadn't even bothered to change the words.<br /><br />It started raining soon after we left La Paz and didn’t dry out until we reached Oruro, where Carnaval was in full swing at just 11:30 a.m. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIgU5ceKhUcSUqlEbk4Ki4cKJwReKl1X6mTr7d5VrWPjvjrCIYm9YIXhw9NXlWNq0ZUDsYcMC_wghdA5-i-RDksrOx6fBUzhjMEQ5cWPL5-81SyadKfSpWyF5fZ-H8oJgOUaI8P_neWWhk/s1600-h/DSC05631.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIgU5ceKhUcSUqlEbk4Ki4cKJwReKl1X6mTr7d5VrWPjvjrCIYm9YIXhw9NXlWNq0ZUDsYcMC_wghdA5-i-RDksrOx6fBUzhjMEQ5cWPL5-81SyadKfSpWyF5fZ-H8oJgOUaI8P_neWWhk/s320/DSC05631.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441172768271087026" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ21f6se_u3wrruefMSss9mdtEotCRKbK5Xx7NCE-RYSq7e2E-zGpoFRyRsr30NEmXB3emUuRrD0MpVXSQvZO42RitCAJh7zDU0JAbsEl4YmgxxcjPuyci4pxifi-EWjs4QSpCvF8gFUJ6/s1600-h/DSC05632.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ21f6se_u3wrruefMSss9mdtEotCRKbK5Xx7NCE-RYSq7e2E-zGpoFRyRsr30NEmXB3emUuRrD0MpVXSQvZO42RitCAJh7zDU0JAbsEl4YmgxxcjPuyci4pxifi-EWjs4QSpCvF8gFUJ6/s320/DSC05632.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441172709704088258" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJb6nGgtDE-KEJJo2UaeWEhC4kVeYDJzZFlgX8gjrD6zQul5d7iPKXMXw4HbgXTiz4SjLPEXLGr4GTh9VAXpqkluaU-qkgDVJMw75pbY2wlPXYqjgtgdZ91pB-glTWkciPNatEb8hTMRhx/s1600-h/DSC05628.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJb6nGgtDE-KEJJo2UaeWEhC4kVeYDJzZFlgX8gjrD6zQul5d7iPKXMXw4HbgXTiz4SjLPEXLGr4GTh9VAXpqkluaU-qkgDVJMw75pbY2wlPXYqjgtgdZ91pB-glTWkciPNatEb8hTMRhx/s320/DSC05628.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441172660763196738" /></a><br />There were many people celebrating, like this young couple:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ivspNLQOZqMToHQ_4sl5aCRXf_YaX4S15yOO_dh1va1hd6TQKkVde0lIQR0i4_Pu5DGPDE4X_gADaeh5zdS4NigEX2VdFUILSJEa4ZBgzgg6DC4AaCCgGf37A_p5BkMCFgaq90AAsaBt/s1600-h/DSC05621.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ivspNLQOZqMToHQ_4sl5aCRXf_YaX4S15yOO_dh1va1hd6TQKkVde0lIQR0i4_Pu5DGPDE4X_gADaeh5zdS4NigEX2VdFUILSJEa4ZBgzgg6DC4AaCCgGf37A_p5BkMCFgaq90AAsaBt/s320/DSC05621.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441172904624373698" /></a><br />The average age in Bolivia is 25 years.<br /><br />We were unable to obtain any snacks from the various shops – even though their doors were open; they were chained to keep out the drunken revelers. <br /><br />Today was our longest mileage day – 500 kilometers – much of it on a marginally improved dirt road. It was a high plateau road with a minimum of curves.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizQwFooZEURT8fQjOMwKiNGk-iQfjek7UruM00tuTA2I4new4nawInzhxIPYnzGC_yccc4G6tjjS_FJ6HS1tuu-pX2tH1vbtNyeHqA7YmZDtkRVSfyRIWJ_p9oxC3wU-fQYGhZhCPFMDuw/s1600-h/DSC05635.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizQwFooZEURT8fQjOMwKiNGk-iQfjek7UruM00tuTA2I4new4nawInzhxIPYnzGC_yccc4G6tjjS_FJ6HS1tuu-pX2tH1vbtNyeHqA7YmZDtkRVSfyRIWJ_p9oxC3wU-fQYGhZhCPFMDuw/s320/DSC05635.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441173059687917602" /></a><br />It was moderately good grazing land, and although the underbrush didn’t look particularly delectable, these llamas didn’t appear to mind . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_rWptJWSWT7lr532fdukigagJYAMyuoG6GLL7LXiLCkOTfbB4dV4B5pogNrBFn1qyDr57GLrjliRVuyGeOUQbr3xx47qp0nY-YGlhBoqhtjKj3nVU4mOAe7oipXuknytoklyy2mSP-xix/s1600-h/DSC05651.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_rWptJWSWT7lr532fdukigagJYAMyuoG6GLL7LXiLCkOTfbB4dV4B5pogNrBFn1qyDr57GLrjliRVuyGeOUQbr3xx47qp0nY-YGlhBoqhtjKj3nVU4mOAe7oipXuknytoklyy2mSP-xix/s320/DSC05651.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441173185099321746" /></a><br />There were many llamas along the road, adult and young (cria) . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjucrq9dygoqeQmCcfpSA2IFJHtJlm5Nj3Bci29K0FJcSI34Ho-xl-0SjCFm11h3b5LjrQPGOwV-qjWkT8MqQJ8khjJd0RKFIaV2I-qpr_xTpN6TDf0GgZQUABjL8SFGEyhObnotD-4UbZG/s1600-h/DSC05640.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjucrq9dygoqeQmCcfpSA2IFJHtJlm5Nj3Bci29K0FJcSI34Ho-xl-0SjCFm11h3b5LjrQPGOwV-qjWkT8MqQJ8khjJd0RKFIaV2I-qpr_xTpN6TDf0GgZQUABjL8SFGEyhObnotD-4UbZG/s320/DSC05640.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441173294456836530" /></a><br /><br />They like to loom at the edge of the road with a look in their eye that suggests they may dart across at any moment. We took care to stare them down – like you would a NYC taxi driver – but we still chose to ride on the other side of the road.<br /><br />It is very important to aim your gaze far ahead (also a good principle for business and life) and concentrate on the clear areas rather than the hazards. If you focus on the hazards, somehow you are drawn to them. In one of the dry patches, I saw a dust devil on the side of the road and headed out to chase it. I ended up in a streambed because my focus was on the dust devil, not the terrain. When attempting to get out of the streambed I dumped the bike, and Helge came to help me right it. We have a rule about what constitutes a fall, and it has a lot to do with principles with which you are familiar—for example, <em>if a tree falls in the forest, does it make a sound? </em> Or alternatively, <em>if a man washes dishes and his wife is not there to witness it – did it really happen?</em> We apply this same principle to falling – <em>if it hasn’t been photographed, it didn’t really happen </em>– and I’m hoping that Helge was not quick on the shutter.<br /><br />On the first section of road, the pastures were green and at times even looked lush . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEckxf4x8ZV_aIls1ERG7eO89gvCnydf4RRuPpCoIZgUWXhSswGvRw2a48Y8IcAsvkHjE2iBVnMhqFcYittbz0H-RSq_xgopSLanlX6ZmkD39ZjZ22J5SdG36_DPOK3UHtXgPvrhOdRekn/s1600-h/DSC05652.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEckxf4x8ZV_aIls1ERG7eO89gvCnydf4RRuPpCoIZgUWXhSswGvRw2a48Y8IcAsvkHjE2iBVnMhqFcYittbz0H-RSq_xgopSLanlX6ZmkD39ZjZ22J5SdG36_DPOK3UHtXgPvrhOdRekn/s320/DSC05652.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441173690390047586" /></a><br />But as we rode on, it became more desert-like with only a smattering of livestock:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZc2ckezExZK0SA196-nPIgMzOBI5gBy4-DimoNcwooILzWdE_WHoMryJOaJ_WlfD4tsRngcqdbFLNvW9L6if6OMJoqZt82Lt7k59wS_tw3aTntKcM0i5caQEjSrasbg2_yOqusKpQVwNB/s1600-h/DSC05678.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZc2ckezExZK0SA196-nPIgMzOBI5gBy4-DimoNcwooILzWdE_WHoMryJOaJ_WlfD4tsRngcqdbFLNvW9L6if6OMJoqZt82Lt7k59wS_tw3aTntKcM0i5caQEjSrasbg2_yOqusKpQVwNB/s320/DSC05678.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441173791604020434" /></a><br />Both sections of road were generally between 12,000 and 13,000 feet in altitude. The last 160 km of this road, which was under construction, had portions blocked off, forcing us to go overland to bypass the barriers. Parts of this stretch were violently rutted – it obviously hadn’t been graded in ages – and this vibration wore down both Roger’s and my wrists and ripped the rear fender (attached to the trailing link) from Roger’s bike. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSDJvdQ3c9TgmX307_i658OzofxFnQWkDFBhYbruxBkQSD6nq3xg6RkuD02sN9dDaR574I7faO-VVxcrqvbxtyQKaRnc0qv2t4u_RBNWId0XKzQrV51hmTqAzSjaZKdbFYagf9e3nuyCum/s1600-h/DSC05697.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSDJvdQ3c9TgmX307_i658OzofxFnQWkDFBhYbruxBkQSD6nq3xg6RkuD02sN9dDaR574I7faO-VVxcrqvbxtyQKaRnc0qv2t4u_RBNWId0XKzQrV51hmTqAzSjaZKdbFYagf9e3nuyCum/s320/DSC05697.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441173975345827938" /></a><br />Helge lost the same piece from his bike yesterday. The road was sprinkled with sandy patches, which are difficult to take at low speeds, with turns covered in gravel that needed to be carefully negotiated. My rear tire is balding in the center, so I need to be particularly careful and angle the bike slightly to get better traction on the corners.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2J2WjaGW-msAU_9pTcysvzMlyCXV3_lvZ-T1nQUN0c9hgrhqnbR03-Xlv-5z4pJw4MBPWww8T0TwPaBpl1ZBBaK0p4a4BMCwney00w-e5yEgh8_8UELDEYi_KId9LsOZ8yZEhi_pow9Q0/s1600-h/DSC05656.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2J2WjaGW-msAU_9pTcysvzMlyCXV3_lvZ-T1nQUN0c9hgrhqnbR03-Xlv-5z4pJw4MBPWww8T0TwPaBpl1ZBBaK0p4a4BMCwney00w-e5yEgh8_8UELDEYi_KId9LsOZ8yZEhi_pow9Q0/s320/DSC05656.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441174660447439106" /></a><br />At one point, we encountered a water crossing that was up to four feet deep – I was amazed that the bikes handled this without stalling. We came upon a small lake with pink flamingos feeding from the bottom:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaUuk8t-FxgdbjgpcfmFkm_o_ajF5oE-ZLjWfZzDZfCN5wYvas-Pf5IkpcfmsasbksPcxEnsrIfXUsb7NahjCEOD8NB02DXTV4a9f6Inmh-ZQckGVgb_qRvpcaaWEMIoecmWwM-uC-xTlp/s1600-h/DSC05664.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaUuk8t-FxgdbjgpcfmFkm_o_ajF5oE-ZLjWfZzDZfCN5wYvas-Pf5IkpcfmsasbksPcxEnsrIfXUsb7NahjCEOD8NB02DXTV4a9f6Inmh-ZQckGVgb_qRvpcaaWEMIoecmWwM-uC-xTlp/s320/DSC05664.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441174877239488642" /></a><br />Although the road seemed to go forever, it was a fabulous ride.<br /><br />Several days earlier, we met a man who managed a hotel in Uyuni, Bolivia, on the edge of a salt flat lake who convinced us to pay it a visit. The lake’s area stretches 100 x 60 miles – supposedly the largest nearly-flat feature on Earth and is used to measure satellite distance (there is only a 50cm variation in height over the 100 mile length). <br /><br />The hotel was indeed spectacular. It was made entirely from bricks of salt quarried from the nearby lake; even some of the furniture was made from salt, and the floor was covered with a thick layer of salt granules. . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Avu5hjlcJQKXvHwze6L67VH3Hux16MfO0rQaMBDYLvpj0-S4ZEzKwE5SxS9wUU_UJcf9uNalR2yT1sYUhaz99JgrtBLcEDvw34tG8ivse9KSD3D9GOdWF0xu7SfMuXseDdyjo6Bh3BOy/s1600-h/DSC05705.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Avu5hjlcJQKXvHwze6L67VH3Hux16MfO0rQaMBDYLvpj0-S4ZEzKwE5SxS9wUU_UJcf9uNalR2yT1sYUhaz99JgrtBLcEDvw34tG8ivse9KSD3D9GOdWF0xu7SfMuXseDdyjo6Bh3BOy/s320/DSC05705.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441175111842665186" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhofz9tJzSdnF-LRBr9VmU2wPgBgT42JQgQDlK-Gk1wb4g7HGIOGKglZuPPbmxtkAK9Nb7iXiEXWs03fpTmkQ-rdyvoOQlycE243vH0lds-VLoTMLDoBOjIF990sMt8YXTSTqMVVaGf9CbN/s1600-h/DSC05704.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhofz9tJzSdnF-LRBr9VmU2wPgBgT42JQgQDlK-Gk1wb4g7HGIOGKglZuPPbmxtkAK9Nb7iXiEXWs03fpTmkQ-rdyvoOQlycE243vH0lds-VLoTMLDoBOjIF990sMt8YXTSTqMVVaGf9CbN/s320/DSC05704.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441175046829697506" /></a><br />We each had a trout dinner that was superb, and tomorrow we will tour the salt flats and head for Potosi, previously a gold mining center in Bolivia.<br /><br /><strong><em>February 17</em></strong><br />We arose early and met up with our two guides at 6:00 a.m. We headed out in the salt-protected vehicle toward the flats that stretch out as far as the eye can see.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHdjCSE6ibPiPyyJ6ONLs053SoWq1uPnLy_fxBipr98F_z4c6yKVvFUVVOI6GE4tPMo5ecU_KQ7SedtvhRVmfIN26UHrBnVyUDA-b8qEZHyln9zLAX5-zql1CA2BYyQXB4Ix0VUhmdI10/s1600-h/DSC05711.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHdjCSE6ibPiPyyJ6ONLs053SoWq1uPnLy_fxBipr98F_z4c6yKVvFUVVOI6GE4tPMo5ecU_KQ7SedtvhRVmfIN26UHrBnVyUDA-b8qEZHyln9zLAX5-zql1CA2BYyQXB4Ix0VUhmdI10/s320/DSC05711.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441175422538293826" /></a><br />It was a beautiful sight as the sun came up: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu56Xn3t_3RCMGT1tem8iaDMd1pMLphGEg9JJtm9GrjII_EldA4tsOoUfGVSQcPlH235SBfLiBwJy9EXCGvl8hOclNVNkUYr_SBE6ySWnW791IMm_YgkCYlfoCmylm0mrgPpKy9FKaUQU8/s1600-h/DSC05709.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu56Xn3t_3RCMGT1tem8iaDMd1pMLphGEg9JJtm9GrjII_EldA4tsOoUfGVSQcPlH235SBfLiBwJy9EXCGvl8hOclNVNkUYr_SBE6ySWnW791IMm_YgkCYlfoCmylm0mrgPpKy9FKaUQU8/s320/DSC05709.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441175631851361106" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRAJiykLfIxZ-xvptOsYxTpicP5ENTRT39wzFagWoVEgnd1z6qQqHLgtyCgTnEmQzmz9xlDgbnXd_vW8nnWgzsCiRrCV7AhTNM9Q5E0iJt3WS3ejOI6UltIGZnqIKY3n7jalJi5-EQsaXW/s1600-h/DSC05718.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRAJiykLfIxZ-xvptOsYxTpicP5ENTRT39wzFagWoVEgnd1z6qQqHLgtyCgTnEmQzmz9xlDgbnXd_vW8nnWgzsCiRrCV7AhTNM9Q5E0iJt3WS3ejOI6UltIGZnqIKY3n7jalJi5-EQsaXW/s320/DSC05718.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441175569434466066" /></a><br />The water from the mountains drains down onto the flats. This car picked up several inches of water as it made its way across:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR1HHDIPovFK6LPQwttL3ilqDsRrNt9OVnyCoZzFJdVSn68OvTIj0NrMW3qrwi4caz1x7Hchn-mNlAStYsFe5P07FxqNWYLN-zDVHDd80U3aqpFz73rv3B9AU0IE2jrxTtBZ1YDKPhd0pm/s1600-h/DSC05714.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR1HHDIPovFK6LPQwttL3ilqDsRrNt9OVnyCoZzFJdVSn68OvTIj0NrMW3qrwi4caz1x7Hchn-mNlAStYsFe5P07FxqNWYLN-zDVHDd80U3aqpFz73rv3B9AU0IE2jrxTtBZ1YDKPhd0pm/s320/DSC05714.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441175778495653730" /></a><br />Despite the water, here is Vince in his sandals taking pictures:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij5fXdjylQta8AqF_Y3CoY0p2X66JvSra4xwM08JA29XgW3T9fhp7os6nKEITXzZPKjIrrjQ_b2j3qFT25jTuukTH9uJKecVelp-iMbZCcKri3bMRT8jQpJmmfVQZHunrDDUMCK1sJxP50/s1600-h/DSC05717.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij5fXdjylQta8AqF_Y3CoY0p2X66JvSra4xwM08JA29XgW3T9fhp7os6nKEITXzZPKjIrrjQ_b2j3qFT25jTuukTH9uJKecVelp-iMbZCcKri3bMRT8jQpJmmfVQZHunrDDUMCK1sJxP50/s320/DSC05717.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441175942353759954" /></a><br />Only at the end of the summer are the flats completely dry.<br /><br />The locals dig down into the beds of salt and make piles which they will haul away when they dry for their own use – a tiny-scale operation when compared to the two Lake Erie salt mines that operate 2000 feet below the lake.<br /><br />A mile or two out on the flats is the original salt flat hotel that failed because people didn’t want to drive their cars out onto the flats:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_teHWesn0jjp1TWULPF8HcDe0xWl6g2ab9eibYfb55FnCakGTic8nFHYXxIbYFIFW5ug-DO_9PPSCyV8gRnvBCh8kqUCYO4_i7GS_pguLRbqI40AXwyoQDiPsHiWKE8veIL2vRWxtgiBi/s1600-h/DSC05730.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_teHWesn0jjp1TWULPF8HcDe0xWl6g2ab9eibYfb55FnCakGTic8nFHYXxIbYFIFW5ug-DO_9PPSCyV8gRnvBCh8kqUCYO4_i7GS_pguLRbqI40AXwyoQDiPsHiWKE8veIL2vRWxtgiBi/s320/DSC05730.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441176668247443746" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihyphenhyphen04xBx80ZOXqEb1pKuSbKM8CeBScSAYn5N5dzEMuQWGhMgcZxM8m_uS4W9dqmXfqdZM892Q_FjtKD9Y0cOs_iDySZtUmQs8aAiasE-m_V9XSIa4TWcISvWf9hCVMz_nczWOOpJTNa35X/s1600-h/DSC05735.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihyphenhyphen04xBx80ZOXqEb1pKuSbKM8CeBScSAYn5N5dzEMuQWGhMgcZxM8m_uS4W9dqmXfqdZM892Q_FjtKD9Y0cOs_iDySZtUmQs8aAiasE-m_V9XSIa4TWcISvWf9hCVMz_nczWOOpJTNa35X/s320/DSC05735.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441176596110664722" /></a><br /><br />There were colorful flags there from many nations – but there were no United States flags:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGBekEok4fYpfvJ3iTswdDxVaJVL5_Ibdn3yf1mqRYtQH6iJ4mhb1MYGbm9T21PQ2szK_GAxD7i8F6K2bz5Jt05C3WLSmnoVypozkw_kcaT2m-fws2zjIHEzi6jPYeny2JxzST9q1y7Nkw/s1600-h/DSC05732.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGBekEok4fYpfvJ3iTswdDxVaJVL5_Ibdn3yf1mqRYtQH6iJ4mhb1MYGbm9T21PQ2szK_GAxD7i8F6K2bz5Jt05C3WLSmnoVypozkw_kcaT2m-fws2zjIHEzi6jPYeny2JxzST9q1y7Nkw/s320/DSC05732.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441176813705773106" /></a><br />We loved our guides, who were enthusiastic and knowledgeable:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWOdOaM2DybCGnAn4fHoeiix5LIR_FJyTa09LowHm2HbwkD7IBjuNdXw6LTtxcYgHSPL7klrkUvvEsbUboJDR2QgxsXQEXwgNQC9whWeNjxsHoh3k0m2x29qV4gSimH_oP3gNm_KQERSFQ/s1600-h/DSC05739.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWOdOaM2DybCGnAn4fHoeiix5LIR_FJyTa09LowHm2HbwkD7IBjuNdXw6LTtxcYgHSPL7klrkUvvEsbUboJDR2QgxsXQEXwgNQC9whWeNjxsHoh3k0m2x29qV4gSimH_oP3gNm_KQERSFQ/s320/DSC05739.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441177031221464706" /></a><br />They suggested different poses for pictures and took a shot of the group in mid air . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiapGuYExSuw5l3SAKZqK_dyBUCJsry9MMWwy2pQxs0I39UNt0mUkEXrW4-RE2gMULMa9XkXipJE7o6vdu449oGSDPcBu3si87Ky_A7_G5H70UOpMA3L-Gl-IX8YxxN2GwKNtUVY-OiJRR8/s1600-h/DSC05744.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiapGuYExSuw5l3SAKZqK_dyBUCJsry9MMWwy2pQxs0I39UNt0mUkEXrW4-RE2gMULMa9XkXipJE7o6vdu449oGSDPcBu3si87Ky_A7_G5H70UOpMA3L-Gl-IX8YxxN2GwKNtUVY-OiJRR8/s320/DSC05744.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441177183502024306" /></a><br />and some of me street fighting with one of the guides:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Tb65qSj4iSPVqioH6mH_a5ICcVMORVSZmhC5xRvj0jd2PBR8WtHHmm5yiGRRK1tEH0L-dAIzkUv8bshqY2MmCi0tOFrijgJsT25eY5PoM3N-Bzlom0i4f1Ad1TDRXJi95i83qUeY0cmd/s1600-h/DSC05749.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Tb65qSj4iSPVqioH6mH_a5ICcVMORVSZmhC5xRvj0jd2PBR8WtHHmm5yiGRRK1tEH0L-dAIzkUv8bshqY2MmCi0tOFrijgJsT25eY5PoM3N-Bzlom0i4f1Ad1TDRXJi95i83qUeY0cmd/s320/DSC05749.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441177358904467666" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8zcTJc_ajGJH6a7FzEjNoVbC0HoAs_ntDLUMjcvbS21iEuc_332dtx_9DYNheDbAuVVE6yZMOp_EP7DnSOLMVIyXmGEbEsyhUaXvP5fQst6bseKiW-ANOv6hfqtN1dTA0V0qCR2G3ucKG/s1600-h/DSC05750.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8zcTJc_ajGJH6a7FzEjNoVbC0HoAs_ntDLUMjcvbS21iEuc_332dtx_9DYNheDbAuVVE6yZMOp_EP7DnSOLMVIyXmGEbEsyhUaXvP5fQst6bseKiW-ANOv6hfqtN1dTA0V0qCR2G3ucKG/s320/DSC05750.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441177291668370178" /></a><br /><br />The sand is abrasive and not favorable to vehicles—here is a tire from the car of one of the hotel guests:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWzeGYb2IwE5HFSfYMgoskvP5XjXb46JSPRvQ55Um9fyYx4-ca7XaYzBEUbk7s_R8BSZfllB2HGc8pAZ5fStaqu-czL7jG8wj4-iSYpxybQW3LUcZEzSx9P0Fa1_hyphenhyphenVipnun68ai1Xte74/s1600-h/DSC05765.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWzeGYb2IwE5HFSfYMgoskvP5XjXb46JSPRvQ55Um9fyYx4-ca7XaYzBEUbk7s_R8BSZfllB2HGc8pAZ5fStaqu-czL7jG8wj4-iSYpxybQW3LUcZEzSx9P0Fa1_hyphenhyphenVipnun68ai1Xte74/s320/DSC05765.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441177547632811138" /></a><br />We finished the tour and headed out for Potosi. We were all short on gas and came upon a gas station with a 25-car waiting line that didn’t move an inch in over half an hour. This is reminiscent of the 1973 gas lines in California.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8WMukorine5xAtqC2x1GHrRIUGaUF_1I2iw1mQGTfArgd7DvczSLsqbClsHik2gVmuuk_z9d2YzUHWptu7Mj623m8fkHQ8WQaP9L9zGCcop3bfoePRvG39N9WDFXcrGhbpJdZA54_a3iW/s1600-h/DSC05770.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8WMukorine5xAtqC2x1GHrRIUGaUF_1I2iw1mQGTfArgd7DvczSLsqbClsHik2gVmuuk_z9d2YzUHWptu7Mj623m8fkHQ8WQaP9L9zGCcop3bfoePRvG39N9WDFXcrGhbpJdZA54_a3iW/s320/DSC05770.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441177694510860610" /></a><br />We met up with some nice people while waiting in line. Pictured below is a French couple who has been on the road since September and is heading south until “the money runs out.” They went through the Amazon in September on motorcycles until the road ran out and took a boat the rest of the way – this is beginning to sound like our next trip. They said they felt safe there but always followed Harriet Ballard’s rule of never traveling at night.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRL1eeMshoQHia8hI9BDOxinHaA9P2Tr3rFuicKyixKNUmMvLseu6R4Jrc0sSDUu3JrWi5_FPncgTXQgx2jIRgL2grLdcR5U_TKETdgnmSjz_obD3aj_5psW2GoajCLi1tMuaJ4QIfy4jX/s1600-h/DSC05774.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRL1eeMshoQHia8hI9BDOxinHaA9P2Tr3rFuicKyixKNUmMvLseu6R4Jrc0sSDUu3JrWi5_FPncgTXQgx2jIRgL2grLdcR5U_TKETdgnmSjz_obD3aj_5psW2GoajCLi1tMuaJ4QIfy4jX/s320/DSC05774.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441177842227777938" /></a><br />We also met a spectacular couple from Alberta, Canada who were on a one-year walkabout with their two sons, 11 and 9 years of age. They embodied the entire hippie package – the peace symbol around the neck and the Volkswagen camper. They camp about half of the time and stay in motels the rest. This would be a transformational trip for kids this age – they have been home-schooling along the way. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcmG8vFJqr86U7rVJOkWqHN-wUqwcrDsuy8_oREGIs1TcBREDw1gSzUpM4iDdQdgYfKu35HvVz3wvRTOVes4ltgzsh5FDP0CU9xrEfvDDphVBpa_kK8VSWVm-hqcfUobJF3Q98nzuww-Ku/s1600-h/DSC05778.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcmG8vFJqr86U7rVJOkWqHN-wUqwcrDsuy8_oREGIs1TcBREDw1gSzUpM4iDdQdgYfKu35HvVz3wvRTOVes4ltgzsh5FDP0CU9xrEfvDDphVBpa_kK8VSWVm-hqcfUobJF3Q98nzuww-Ku/s320/DSC05778.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441178012547054146" /></a><br />We rode off into the desert and back onto the dirt road. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVs_-_cytQvMhRhH_Grn13nbv1xicSHOzmj-iOb8KaW-hWGaSaTsIvvJjJKNdjtdVnaNmTBCpZxzU35Vx4EWOmtBm20PSHtaJyRGYw2WW60qaIfhC18Abe_is_f_UZxqZmO_pMBuTeC3r/s1600-h/DSC05781.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVs_-_cytQvMhRhH_Grn13nbv1xicSHOzmj-iOb8KaW-hWGaSaTsIvvJjJKNdjtdVnaNmTBCpZxzU35Vx4EWOmtBm20PSHtaJyRGYw2WW60qaIfhC18Abe_is_f_UZxqZmO_pMBuTeC3r/s320/DSC05781.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441178155796851074" /></a><br />We drove the rest of the day until arriving in Potosi in southern Bolivia. It is a nice town with inordinate number of young people. <br /><br />We drove the rest of the day and arrived at Potosi, Bolivia. This is an old silver mining town, has a large university and a significant number of young people. The Indians here look much different than those in La Paz. In La Paz the people who dressed traditionally (the Charlie Chaplin hat, colorful blouse, flared skirt – approximating the shape of a Christmas tree with a head on top) were mostly obese – approximately 80%. In Potosi the look is dramatically different. I asked the hotel clerk about this and she explained that the Indian tribe in La Paz is more traditional and that being obese is actually a desired featured; and those that are not obese add padding to simulate the look. In Potosi, she explained, the change has happened quickly, within the last generation and a half. The women have gone from the Christmas tree profile to tight jeans and a skinny look. The traditional dress cannot compete with the American media image which is plastered all over their TV. <br />I wondered if there was an “in-between” time when the perfect style was to be the appropriate weight rather than like that of a Christmas tree or a skeleton.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-23078027614591819902010-02-16T09:13:00.000-08:002010-02-16T09:35:08.976-08:00Day 38-39 – February 11-12In my previous blog, I inquired as to the physics behind the moisture from the Pacific dumping on the eastern side of the Andes rather than the western thus forming the large South American Pacific coast desert. I received the following from Jim Schaefer in my office:<br /><br />=====================<br />One reason is that the high atmospheric pressure in this region over the Andes can cause dry, cold air from the upper altitudes to compress and come down to earth. This dry air has almost no water vapor so it can be easily heated by the sun, causing high ground temperatures with very low humidity.<br /><br />Another reason that the Atacama doesn't get enough rainfall is because of a phenomenon called rainshadow. The warm, moist tropical air that blows on the tradewinds from the east, which douse the South American rainforest, get hung-up on the east side of the Andes. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGqGqJodDP7nMNMKNQvVVawO37OJg7rMlbqcmdTpYxveOue74wdtp1qD0CVgMyk0eYkabwJYEDqn-smE6iqZxn4tvirl4koTSBr6TgaU-IdDQPT8RzWbspvgz7f6FfDitjLLEp0V6hclz_/s1600-h/atacama+desert.bmp"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 259px; height: 167px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGqGqJodDP7nMNMKNQvVVawO37OJg7rMlbqcmdTpYxveOue74wdtp1qD0CVgMyk0eYkabwJYEDqn-smE6iqZxn4tvirl4koTSBr6TgaU-IdDQPT8RzWbspvgz7f6FfDitjLLEp0V6hclz_/s320/atacama+desert.bmp" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438891797058765970" /></a><br />The mountains are so high in altitude that the air cools, condenses and rains (or snows) on the mountains. As the air descends the other side of the mountain range it warms, holding in its moisture preventing rain from falling on to the ground below.<br /><br />This is one of the reasons why the Amazon basin and river are the largest anywhere in the world. The mountains that cause the Amazon to be the largest river from collecting all the rainfall are also responsible for preventing the Atacama from ever receiving any rainfall. The driest and one of the wettest places in the world are right next to each other!<br /><br />The rain shadow on the leeward side of the Chilean Coast Range, as well as a coastal inversion layer created by the cold offshore Humboldt Current, keep this over 20 million-year-old desert 50 times drier than California's Death Valley.<br />=====================<br /><br /><br /><strong><em>South of Abancay, Peru to Cuzco, Peru </em></strong> <br />We left our idyllic Italian-Alpine Chateau . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvTTKlKhXq-kj0JrBRSrR5dby5Y8D9x8__ZD0gaugtnqybo858CHFGzaoeGXhMQIGeXs_AD1kvOiXvvxy3V4DAnKovGVCoxYgVqjqvoFYCvGYzl3fwmZbMLuWhnN4Nz_yKP8nIDsHgk3aI/s1600-h/DSC04945.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvTTKlKhXq-kj0JrBRSrR5dby5Y8D9x8__ZD0gaugtnqybo858CHFGzaoeGXhMQIGeXs_AD1kvOiXvvxy3V4DAnKovGVCoxYgVqjqvoFYCvGYzl3fwmZbMLuWhnN4Nz_yKP8nIDsHgk3aI/s320/DSC04945.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438892432862727426" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1D-qYVnuVCIMF9Tm2F9uUfgDPgWt_73s6baFE1agwQHZZbL6-K67HH6vPtiRzBbZ97khlOPfYBbQKxbjQyGdiSKDxL1NdjI1hoYHAbfAeyFP55gFQyBLZheSvjZAqmUJmT_EbGf9ysepM/s1600-h/DSC04946.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1D-qYVnuVCIMF9Tm2F9uUfgDPgWt_73s6baFE1agwQHZZbL6-K67HH6vPtiRzBbZ97khlOPfYBbQKxbjQyGdiSKDxL1NdjI1hoYHAbfAeyFP55gFQyBLZheSvjZAqmUJmT_EbGf9ysepM/s320/DSC04946.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438892380427786674" /></a><br />. . . heading through a steep river valley on our way to Cuzco, Peru.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZC5nxPryXYdOkG_ijpzrXVuXX4qtJDvy9FWQjelne3MLpquUP4hyqJBY7G4ui7x1ecs1MQT6bGv5fzsmo60d6gu8d7QR-B7gSvjC0bTuxfsD0c-qrHwOIXX73psf1KjfFvBnicGTgGzOo/s1600-h/DSC04951.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZC5nxPryXYdOkG_ijpzrXVuXX4qtJDvy9FWQjelne3MLpquUP4hyqJBY7G4ui7x1ecs1MQT6bGv5fzsmo60d6gu8d7QR-B7gSvjC0bTuxfsD0c-qrHwOIXX73psf1KjfFvBnicGTgGzOo/s320/DSC04951.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438892572539258994" /></a><br />And encountered small streams rushing over the road . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE5Vp4CptJDkIMN4eBe58ET8RqJ_YJWWgKWnsVjBR0MudMLkps4yW-el5AJJ6n-N_s-QCQxykCbqkJ3Pgi9R6AzpwgGxe_3J8JRXwNqrG5gs-SxLCPW1Rds-Ot6Ei5vSJn7gYf7FBhefPt/s1600-h/DSC04958.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE5Vp4CptJDkIMN4eBe58ET8RqJ_YJWWgKWnsVjBR0MudMLkps4yW-el5AJJ6n-N_s-QCQxykCbqkJ3Pgi9R6AzpwgGxe_3J8JRXwNqrG5gs-SxLCPW1Rds-Ot6Ei5vSJn7gYf7FBhefPt/s320/DSC04958.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438892691383794082" /></a><br />. . . and small villages.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQXYsDji9WCnWd3mrQxWwGhBHTR1qA93ONMNoU_R4Tfps2QIWcK4uksuW9l2HwFPwWgxz367rYTjwgVNmvjFF-8w4laGHkseD-IrFoQAzlGoouCHVbfz_tyB4Z86BWPGFAoE58nMmUxsw/s1600-h/DSC04960.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQXYsDji9WCnWd3mrQxWwGhBHTR1qA93ONMNoU_R4Tfps2QIWcK4uksuW9l2HwFPwWgxz367rYTjwgVNmvjFF-8w4laGHkseD-IrFoQAzlGoouCHVbfz_tyB4Z86BWPGFAoE58nMmUxsw/s320/DSC04960.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438892848548026770" /></a><br />We climbed over 13,000 feet and looked down on the clouds . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxRJGngzPRJAvt7aWdYUTDAwrbrRHV86Nh5hNWCyXzMEFFW6IZ7Y-U-pKyoUewbH5cNcfsBtF5tqrA0AffuUfb0F9mh9v3A20lMnyiVszVkE5mBzO6ae5tuORiBFZIf0hQZBnpsVkzQKMq/s1600-h/DSC04962.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxRJGngzPRJAvt7aWdYUTDAwrbrRHV86Nh5hNWCyXzMEFFW6IZ7Y-U-pKyoUewbH5cNcfsBtF5tqrA0AffuUfb0F9mh9v3A20lMnyiVszVkE5mBzO6ae5tuORiBFZIf0hQZBnpsVkzQKMq/s320/DSC04962.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438892951157922018" /></a><br />. . . through rugged mountainous terrain on a switchback road . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2iYI1WSwsHOzzUVzCiyZsfst1_d3EWKjOCFTDhKTobgBI04_SekQMQbnRaD5CYqvPq9OWcxKyHbkzh2fBoQGH5vat6OgjwDk0leB8jc6DHznUbA2egD32kDoa3rJCK2WDNA2SWpf9iVL6/s1600-h/DSC04974.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2iYI1WSwsHOzzUVzCiyZsfst1_d3EWKjOCFTDhKTobgBI04_SekQMQbnRaD5CYqvPq9OWcxKyHbkzh2fBoQGH5vat6OgjwDk0leB8jc6DHznUbA2egD32kDoa3rJCK2WDNA2SWpf9iVL6/s320/DSC04974.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438893048354375394" /></a><br />Because of the recent rains the river along our route to Cuzco was running red . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgINzO41K21r-EK5wWAS5jDdu7-CAAMAfHSEAPocG3oOKNLuYsnSCFpdebiqxoIVyW0e6RhgRhYMUXGVznF6L0cqdoeAnQYLrTKU-F3SniYlX9Xeyvn5Nya3SaT2PRel1PRew1z3KfwFskz/s1600-h/DSC04976.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgINzO41K21r-EK5wWAS5jDdu7-CAAMAfHSEAPocG3oOKNLuYsnSCFpdebiqxoIVyW0e6RhgRhYMUXGVznF6L0cqdoeAnQYLrTKU-F3SniYlX9Xeyvn5Nya3SaT2PRel1PRew1z3KfwFskz/s320/DSC04976.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438893160315017730" /></a><br />There wasn’t much room for the road along this 10 mile stretch of canyon . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi06cpaZ4xRKh7AcP21_bS3BebCLYK7SnaYeOmkNnkJq_lPEj6Lm2u2b80aSCrxEMsQcxdEcKYM-Y2Zp_5OsaFibx5xX4rwwB2kRsv38p3O9CeCofH4uAiRNl8ZO9mtG8ijn3J767u0uHFG/s1600-h/DSC04979.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi06cpaZ4xRKh7AcP21_bS3BebCLYK7SnaYeOmkNnkJq_lPEj6Lm2u2b80aSCrxEMsQcxdEcKYM-Y2Zp_5OsaFibx5xX4rwwB2kRsv38p3O9CeCofH4uAiRNl8ZO9mtG8ijn3J767u0uHFG/s320/DSC04979.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438893262304255698" /></a><br />In this narrow canyon assisted by the recent rains the river clearly won over the road. They were attempting to reroute the river using front end loaders and large tracked backhoes.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_dTRirm0_gESU5Jodiwqh5WXAYWK-5_WazemqeEmYEeVpyOjVTPxFOZ13Hk9FLkCPoQh3EQywMW4eOx3s6-ui2hPS-gIkuKE08JrAZ6Wf0UiabC6m2cjN9wXWe2BnanReGirU7lhb1G-X/s1600-h/DSC04982.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_dTRirm0_gESU5Jodiwqh5WXAYWK-5_WazemqeEmYEeVpyOjVTPxFOZ13Hk9FLkCPoQh3EQywMW4eOx3s6-ui2hPS-gIkuKE08JrAZ6Wf0UiabC6m2cjN9wXWe2BnanReGirU7lhb1G-X/s320/DSC04982.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438893371602810482" /></a><br />and left Cuzco without its lifeline for the two weeks it took to patch an alternative route – but the newly patched route made for very rough going, particularly for the big trucks.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1SaSJierJ4d9G9gNUE3NUusvCJR34FLW5V10XOZyt1tGlE2XjSMg21nJj56zzv2ILpGHQrX2oGhAFLyF6TzUfyz1hFRJ7Vy4JSVbdtDv0Qg4m2Q0R1DsOCjUcZ1ID6IaOo_3GBbEMEAfb/s1600-h/DSC04981.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1SaSJierJ4d9G9gNUE3NUusvCJR34FLW5V10XOZyt1tGlE2XjSMg21nJj56zzv2ILpGHQrX2oGhAFLyF6TzUfyz1hFRJ7Vy4JSVbdtDv0Qg4m2Q0R1DsOCjUcZ1ID6IaOo_3GBbEMEAfb/s320/DSC04981.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438893488341966802" /></a><br />Supporting the roads through this lightly populated rugged terrain is particularly difficult for a small country like Peru. In a struggle between Mother Nature and a caterpillar tractor, Mother Nature wins out whenever she wants. The cliffs and steep slopes leading down to the road provide an endless supply of large boulders which constantly need to be removed by tractors.<br /><br />At a number of points along our way the traffic is stopped - - Helge is talked into some sort of mystery dish by this cute little girl (watch out for Montezuma’s revenge)!<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP0_StbaumH7cYNIDfyejLsVN6x29oO5-tupTCNclAbAheNPf-cn4KEfMWUL2h0Ic9SJTHREp9nYtB5ViX2_SEW5cQAujR7sxQvWE7zlQ1Q0Om9shTW2do-IbnIE_ANscP-hOIorohKtf2/s1600-h/DSC04984.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP0_StbaumH7cYNIDfyejLsVN6x29oO5-tupTCNclAbAheNPf-cn4KEfMWUL2h0Ic9SJTHREp9nYtB5ViX2_SEW5cQAujR7sxQvWE7zlQ1Q0Om9shTW2do-IbnIE_ANscP-hOIorohKtf2/s320/DSC04984.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438893597694065042" /></a><br />As we near Cuzco we are rewarded with a beautiful landscape of a neat patchwork of farms . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBl5TdaY08gc1Ekwjrx290EDRMynT9uodB7pKRpamXp-CzZ3UU2gmYB4MxfNWU0i27ZHzqM_8H31sElVM2AEMoFsfl7QRAKOEVZAekDIr4f0Gon09BnLcudCjoE7pSDzki1jxkgkWhA7Jc/s1600-h/DSC04992.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBl5TdaY08gc1Ekwjrx290EDRMynT9uodB7pKRpamXp-CzZ3UU2gmYB4MxfNWU0i27ZHzqM_8H31sElVM2AEMoFsfl7QRAKOEVZAekDIr4f0Gon09BnLcudCjoE7pSDzki1jxkgkWhA7Jc/s320/DSC04992.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438893712642644754" /></a><br />In steep areas they often rely on terraced farming and even pastures – in proportion to the land cultivated, this requires a significant amount of time building and maintaining retaining walls. It’s difficult to compete with the farms that have cash crops – like in Ohio. <br /><br />We beat the rain into Cuzco and were able to do some sight seeing.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAshjC699IbvC7-U9gPE8ma09cFXBwcQ3OXvFVHKsMwzXA9sLuUkgMogLxpGcseL__b_TcFj6ZPbj6KndZEGjKd6f1g6vg_pgeO5Bo5toVHWWdG0emYARgU9n0e84tcm2MTH9WesTYVASm/s1600-h/DSC05007.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAshjC699IbvC7-U9gPE8ma09cFXBwcQ3OXvFVHKsMwzXA9sLuUkgMogLxpGcseL__b_TcFj6ZPbj6KndZEGjKd6f1g6vg_pgeO5Bo5toVHWWdG0emYARgU9n0e84tcm2MTH9WesTYVASm/s320/DSC05007.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438893838380840898" /></a><br />Cuzco was formerly the capital of Peru and there are a lot of impressive government buildings and churches – some of which have been built on the foundations of Incan temples. <br /><br />Our goal had been to go to Machu Picchu but the significant rains created a landslide shutting down the railroad and other access roads. We attempted to rent a helicopter to take us there, but the government has set Machu Picchu off limits.<br /><br />So the next day we toured some of the archeological sites of Cuzco – next year’s trip will include the much more impressive Machu Picchu. <br /><br />Cuzco is definitely a tourist town but now with Machu Picchu off limits it was virtually empty and the town is feeling the effects of a bad economy. We made sure to empty our motorcycles of temptations before parking them in the garage. I was amazed as we entered Cuzco that it had the stamp of a tourist town – a bungee jumping apparatus, suspended between four hills with a basket high above us.<br /><br />We first went to a temple on the outskirts of town, constructed in a terraced fashion, with huge stones – one of which weighed over 120 tons. The archeological site encompassed approximately 300 acres. The main temple was built with irregularly shaped stones that fit intimately together. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTCnX0O-X0gGKXSZFCVr0K16eHweMVwg8UpSsSa-baDz_g9Zt6qFjbPHbDNZzws99QLHGzrsz6ZzkL3NX_ic82NmwzdWH9HWscZUgLsFmEtJklNbuiWGSaFf7k4L9ZoPNtGUO3lFCi_5Er/s1600-h/DSC05009.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTCnX0O-X0gGKXSZFCVr0K16eHweMVwg8UpSsSa-baDz_g9Zt6qFjbPHbDNZzws99QLHGzrsz6ZzkL3NX_ic82NmwzdWH9HWscZUgLsFmEtJklNbuiWGSaFf7k4L9ZoPNtGUO3lFCi_5Er/s320/DSC05009.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438894045020334498" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPIPyFJEPGOh0ilaybYI91zBFArxWgGOclMiDXiFeicQveAIRDKDq3rmoI94P7wdLMdZ48t-KPYbdgb5Y0YCrlABz7uo887g0kHY7wW5XmVh_oikACoJzGua69wSJJLjWFwu4phBH7OSEl/s1600-h/DSC05011.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPIPyFJEPGOh0ilaybYI91zBFArxWgGOclMiDXiFeicQveAIRDKDq3rmoI94P7wdLMdZ48t-KPYbdgb5Y0YCrlABz7uo887g0kHY7wW5XmVh_oikACoJzGua69wSJJLjWFwu4phBH7OSEl/s320/DSC05011.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438893997001088882" /></a><br />The stones were harvested from a quarry 10-20 miles away from the site in the same manner as the pyramids. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTkvvOAMEEkkRacjyfD9Nth-DQC0IRaDoUzeYejuZnkZQT8ar2OWq-NPTFocQuzTefcuJLnWVNxjtJNz04F67qxpThOGcu163ypOysnzeR-eRdx0RKxQwqw01YH6PAC7-GfB2x-yZz21jn/s1600-h/DSC05012.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTkvvOAMEEkkRacjyfD9Nth-DQC0IRaDoUzeYejuZnkZQT8ar2OWq-NPTFocQuzTefcuJLnWVNxjtJNz04F67qxpThOGcu163ypOysnzeR-eRdx0RKxQwqw01YH6PAC7-GfB2x-yZz21jn/s320/DSC05012.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438894183890571586" /></a><br />He claimed that after they set a stone they would make a wooden model of the next stone to be placed – using the model to cut the next piece. The stones are limestone formed in the Paleozoic era - - in this stone you can see fossils of marine animals.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj800B-p5TrIb5ys2v5hMrQAPbasrvewlAFYm5lgU2y-y9rBjd5FOWHt7xwDYrLQGUcmXmdyQUyI-8529ul-269lQc7Ggz1ku44nMqcvK0RcJySNF6QTeMeykSL0poY7Y0o1wnTseY4PAlD/s1600-h/DSC05015.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj800B-p5TrIb5ys2v5hMrQAPbasrvewlAFYm5lgU2y-y9rBjd5FOWHt7xwDYrLQGUcmXmdyQUyI-8529ul-269lQc7Ggz1ku44nMqcvK0RcJySNF6QTeMeykSL0poY7Y0o1wnTseY4PAlD/s320/DSC05015.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438894389333158674" /></a><br />Unfortunately, preserving these ruins is a recent activity. This temple had been used as a stone quarry for many years – used to build the Spanish churches – and all that was left behind were the stones too large to move.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiymqOCKp0xnCbIjS5GgHC70ec033adPWOZpk5QMB5qUBYxFHdNKswDmRDWfw4pD041oknbizrjYguyDkWN47CD62NK3nWKWVyXJfwTS25f1OF-JrieTvxXDA4ruxlkcgeTnHRfSxYJ0Cdn/s1600-h/DSC05017.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiymqOCKp0xnCbIjS5GgHC70ec033adPWOZpk5QMB5qUBYxFHdNKswDmRDWfw4pD041oknbizrjYguyDkWN47CD62NK3nWKWVyXJfwTS25f1OF-JrieTvxXDA4ruxlkcgeTnHRfSxYJ0Cdn/s320/DSC05017.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438894492655968258" /></a><br />The recent torrential rains have been undermining the temple structure - - so they have covered the vulnerable areas with tarps to reduce the possibility of erosion and mudslides . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXYVZ_2WvI7JfZ-0qJc3M9diF9ZhWG2u5KtlweZWJjyHNty3gJHKBv-uZWlKLOAXfP507GeIvRry7cGpEAnwTS-0rkjPGFrkVQe5lR_6gOiQHG6v7CU1pl7z8DRR6R_u2_fxCiIoebI9ei/s1600-h/DSC05019.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXYVZ_2WvI7JfZ-0qJc3M9diF9ZhWG2u5KtlweZWJjyHNty3gJHKBv-uZWlKLOAXfP507GeIvRry7cGpEAnwTS-0rkjPGFrkVQe5lR_6gOiQHG6v7CU1pl7z8DRR6R_u2_fxCiIoebI9ei/s320/DSC05019.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438894603055124562" /></a><br />You can see to the left of the tarp a slide which occurred in the last month or two.<br /><br />This same erosion has been occurring throughout Cuzco - - here you can see their attempt to quell the mudslides with the use of blue tarpaulins . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrExEfVXDwr8IoYkFTMAd0LEM0XKm44aurzzLASKMNx9ovnHdWDRRLBwyX_UmuaXgZKffH4FpCqTA6fpPM7C5zzXOH6uTFrnJtw5HBdAwm60qc2jGVNgG5CiNYikXUI-qcZY1vsnKghGRz/s1600-h/DSC05031.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrExEfVXDwr8IoYkFTMAd0LEM0XKm44aurzzLASKMNx9ovnHdWDRRLBwyX_UmuaXgZKffH4FpCqTA6fpPM7C5zzXOH6uTFrnJtw5HBdAwm60qc2jGVNgG5CiNYikXUI-qcZY1vsnKghGRz/s320/DSC05031.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438894705374882098" /></a><br />There were lots of Peruvians at the archeological site including college students on break. In Peru, the children go 2 years to kindergarten, 5 years elementary school and 5 years of college (somewhat equivalent to our high school). Upon graduation they will receive a minimum wage of the equivalent of US$200 per month – and a college professor only makes about 2.5 times that amount. In parts of Asia a living wage is perhaps half that amount.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnX9BQ-mz5PoVKRVu1P7k05dTMHYiwPWxUgxlROvA8XHXwgJGubsyfuvHSSmPET2MoIgD8n2k6TKX8kC5AqNp4cmkvK88gdrKpoQ0VbIu-qmmMzmej0lLdMpHaYvbkycdPu89G7QsEy955/s1600-h/DSC05036.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnX9BQ-mz5PoVKRVu1P7k05dTMHYiwPWxUgxlROvA8XHXwgJGubsyfuvHSSmPET2MoIgD8n2k6TKX8kC5AqNp4cmkvK88gdrKpoQ0VbIu-qmmMzmej0lLdMpHaYvbkycdPu89G7QsEy955/s320/DSC05036.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438894841380987474" /></a><br />Prosperous looking mothers and children . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvueS7d3aQU7TD9QTHqhnbbxIwNMiRM64O7FUTcuK7-3VxXA61-NWqlrurDH63jh6QWucW2fO86YRQptjJBXAqM9Tf4zrCcRvwvSgmMO_uu4xuQFji-ssG0RDP9-LQRg_u78qj4mgse6z_/s1600-h/DSC05034.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvueS7d3aQU7TD9QTHqhnbbxIwNMiRM64O7FUTcuK7-3VxXA61-NWqlrurDH63jh6QWucW2fO86YRQptjJBXAqM9Tf4zrCcRvwvSgmMO_uu4xuQFji-ssG0RDP9-LQRg_u78qj4mgse6z_/s320/DSC05034.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438894944544558722" /></a><br />And less prosperous ones . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6z0o13hexbmrRPr4Xf53c9IY2hJvCIjxWK0Fj1qvlIv_qIB_PdIMWMLxk0FQr7auLMWg-7HcHFQoRapyAQsbRhNWTBEHhVbfUJeQYMly6cnKwfCaYqFokK6Q9bgRC0ZYsD6J3aeLqD6b/s1600-h/DSC05040.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6z0o13hexbmrRPr4Xf53c9IY2hJvCIjxWK0Fj1qvlIv_qIB_PdIMWMLxk0FQr7auLMWg-7HcHFQoRapyAQsbRhNWTBEHhVbfUJeQYMly6cnKwfCaYqFokK6Q9bgRC0ZYsD6J3aeLqD6b/s320/DSC05040.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438895048554810466" /></a><br />This 15 year had a baby on her back and made her living from allowing tourists to take pictures of her and her llama . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM4Lb3hks6RCWlRVxiFVZS-So1Hmkf-RPSbKVIfk7q4DJm30FyeU1w4kjnSnO5SPbz2GAooEfMBIKvOS5wMHX6blrT_OueaQUCf6JHY4vkv20VpWT8uPYjsC3r0swH39OQGOxlcQGFHO2Y/s1600-h/DSC05041.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM4Lb3hks6RCWlRVxiFVZS-So1Hmkf-RPSbKVIfk7q4DJm30FyeU1w4kjnSnO5SPbz2GAooEfMBIKvOS5wMHX6blrT_OueaQUCf6JHY4vkv20VpWT8uPYjsC3r0swH39OQGOxlcQGFHO2Y/s320/DSC05041.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438895171734114674" /></a><br />It looked like a tragic situation and I felt sorry for her.<br /><br />We went to what was billed as a weaving factory – the factory part turned out to be largely a sham with two guys running a Singer weaving machine. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1SdSo3pH-j7e26EjvLf8fGYkD-5Pv32Lh5DnfHIQz3UNImWVtlAlzdk0WaoTVSDnIr10iP93BFyRu81JrC_Pt1FK_zAr7Tl1lvNqGMykDJFdzTiwuESw04bOZYI2rpTV2i-zwvM03bssA/s1600-h/DSC05045.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1SdSo3pH-j7e26EjvLf8fGYkD-5Pv32Lh5DnfHIQz3UNImWVtlAlzdk0WaoTVSDnIr10iP93BFyRu81JrC_Pt1FK_zAr7Tl1lvNqGMykDJFdzTiwuESw04bOZYI2rpTV2i-zwvM03bssA/s320/DSC05045.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438895401212312882" /></a><br />It was a great store for llama and vicuna clothing complete with live animals parked outside – some scruffy looking . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIcQyJzNXOK1ENl18rxynn77hSDi-Ln-IZeqirktVfLsuxkMYbwNliLndkPpc6TntJvU2x8fZFZBJ5BGwCzZpqXblRl65XXpz4vviUfQwyBM-RxmAxXAPMc192abFvBxhRFV7q19DsiWEK/s1600-h/DSC05046.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIcQyJzNXOK1ENl18rxynn77hSDi-Ln-IZeqirktVfLsuxkMYbwNliLndkPpc6TntJvU2x8fZFZBJ5BGwCzZpqXblRl65XXpz4vviUfQwyBM-RxmAxXAPMc192abFvBxhRFV7q19DsiWEK/s320/DSC05046.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438895507589048482" /></a><br />And some elegant and feminine looking . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2f_jziKIRCyNU_HCmKio3PaEqqVd_2Ou4Jov6ZE5FkDteB6xH856kYeKsA6Q39GcfpbZK2dJ5skpOJx26yf9qylynjybgFpeKHNwc5z8U1kN1wPl23eYfw1EHrWZSGCgPAno6ilBtrpFA/s1600-h/DSC05049.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2f_jziKIRCyNU_HCmKio3PaEqqVd_2Ou4Jov6ZE5FkDteB6xH856kYeKsA6Q39GcfpbZK2dJ5skpOJx26yf9qylynjybgFpeKHNwc5z8U1kN1wPl23eYfw1EHrWZSGCgPAno6ilBtrpFA/s320/DSC05049.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438895653693851442" /></a><br />But as you can see they weren’t overgenerous with their affection . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sDdVyDafW7Qw8ZOKehzprEDvia8ksdaTn27qTj3HH6Cqo_ghck6A8Na9RkYLqDuVfGqd4GRsNIvmAGE7H8J2zed5F6X1xFS_xMrfanOuIw1StY7SydPyt_sUEbnH0zF7x3ptESIKmSmP/s1600-h/DSC05054.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sDdVyDafW7Qw8ZOKehzprEDvia8ksdaTn27qTj3HH6Cqo_ghck6A8Na9RkYLqDuVfGqd4GRsNIvmAGE7H8J2zed5F6X1xFS_xMrfanOuIw1StY7SydPyt_sUEbnH0zF7x3ptESIKmSmP/s320/DSC05054.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438895772684516530" /></a><br />Unlike their Asian cousins . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXA_TTbE-RJtFZYCUyiHbYF2GGHvKyu8BkxDYGhztLkvRlWgeBqYDgT5jaGKY9I60eytZZEGsz51rCA0Pe4ttgJN2HskI9c5WxJ9Ul2zNeDLXbUh8deWQPtlcuo8rAeL8BsJPnNMWFJ8Y0/s1600-h/Silk+Road+Invitation.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXA_TTbE-RJtFZYCUyiHbYF2GGHvKyu8BkxDYGhztLkvRlWgeBqYDgT5jaGKY9I60eytZZEGsz51rCA0Pe4ttgJN2HskI9c5WxJ9Ul2zNeDLXbUh8deWQPtlcuo8rAeL8BsJPnNMWFJ8Y0/s320/Silk+Road+Invitation.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438895963167598162" /></a><br />I was disappointed that our guide did not know more about early Incan history. The reasons behind the success of the Incans are still a little confusing to me. According to the guide the Incan culture began to emerge in 1200 BC and reached its apex 200-300 years later. It came to an end with the arrival of the Spanish in 1528 - at that point the population of Cuzco was about 100,000 (it is now 400,000). I believe the Incans generally have the same genetics as our American Indians, yet why were they able to achieve such a large unified empire? At the height of their empire, the Inca territory stretched from what is now the border of Colombia and Ecuador to central Chile – a distance of over 3,400 miles. The Inca people, who numbered only about 100,000, ruled from 10 to 12 million people from at least 86 ethnic groups with their own languages, traditions and religious beliefs. <br /><br />What was the “secret sauce” that enabled the Incas to build an empire while the American Indians had only tiny tribes by comparison? <br />- Was it the presence of forceful leadership? – There were perhaps 9 Incan chiefs during their period of dominance. Following the death of the last Incan leader, power was divided between his two sons – one to the north and one to the south. They ruled for 9 years prior to the arrival of the Spanish. <br />- Or were they primarily farmers and tied to the land, and that created the need for bureaucracy and government?<br />- Or did they develop some clever hybrid plant that made them more efficient farmers, and that enabled them to spread their culture?<br />- Or perhaps they were just good warriors, like Genghis Kahn.<br />- Or maybe it was that they conducted human sacrifices and were able to gain a foothold by fear, selective sacrifice criteria, and with a complicated pantheon of greater and lesser gods (<strong><em>just kidding</em></strong>).<br /><br />We did not really get a clear picture of their “product plus” that made the Incas so effective. Leadership is clearly an important aspect. Consider these recent emerging leaders, Vincente Fox and Felipe Calderon in Mexico, Nobel laureate Oscar Arias in Costa Rica, and Alvaro Uribe in Colombia. These leaders all effectively changed the direction of their respective countries – they each have a superior education, a great love of their homeland, and significant organizational experience before assuming their roles – either in business, in law, or in government. These leaders had many global opportunities, but they devoted their talent and their lives to bettering their country. Fox, Calderon, and Uribe have degrees from Harvard, while Arias took his advanced degree from the London School of Economics. <br /><br />In contrast, in the failed states such as Nicaragua and Venezuela, the leadership has been dominated by people with little education, little administrative experience, and a socialist agenda. Daniel Ortega in Nicaragua barely finished high school, never held a university degree and had no experience in business or government when he joined the underground movement that helped overthrow Nicaragua’s dictator in 1979. Hugo Chavez in Colombia had more education, but advocates socialism, price controls, and strict control of the media. Perhaps the most classic case is Morales in Bolivia – who started out as a llama herder. He advocates socialism and has been ineffective at revitalizing Bolivia. Charlie Wilson wanted education for Afghanistan as a way to ensure a lasting peace. He and George Crile were clearly onto something. <br /><br />As we elect a leader for Cuyahoga County, we need to be careful to pick someone who is skilled at choosing good lieutenants to reform the important social welfare, health, economic development and capital project aspects of county government. On this short trip we have dramatically seen what works and what doesn’t. <br /><br /><br />Tomorrow we will head for the Bolivian border.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-32580989505780093892010-02-11T17:44:00.000-08:002010-02-11T18:34:44.485-08:00Day 35-37 – February 8-10<strong><em>Huarmey, Peru to Pisco, Peru to Nazca Peru to Abancay, Peru</em></strong><br /><br />We drove from Huarmey to Pisco continuing through the desert on the PanAmerican Highway. This is a beautiful road surrounded by huge skylines and dunes – but not particularly interesting. The road is straight with few curves and we were able to cover a lot of ground at high speeds.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjra1DWB9qkPfL4Ymf7Ie4RDgqYdji3XdJx3aOssXFcyqnp7nqU35JyS6eRENHiwYKRDLyXwW7A7CCL1eyGmSWq0kHckCathfje7Rc_WrHfjJ2femhu7wAb43caMVKjELmh1-rqoFTCEEZX/s1600-h/DSC04454.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjra1DWB9qkPfL4Ymf7Ie4RDgqYdji3XdJx3aOssXFcyqnp7nqU35JyS6eRENHiwYKRDLyXwW7A7CCL1eyGmSWq0kHckCathfje7Rc_WrHfjJ2femhu7wAb43caMVKjELmh1-rqoFTCEEZX/s320/DSC04454.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437167743128819586" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBKKRhVyObZc6orskkMJ7rdJRYCChJJ9c8o5gWNIxX5lxQYsR3QjU_TdZRrxzwN8FOPbeVt0kbOjgWfvKmrK1jn95clePct3m4VvY9XGqIdp2S8v40YkoaTneRJ2KrPOd4726QFP0LJ3MF/s1600-h/DSC04457.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBKKRhVyObZc6orskkMJ7rdJRYCChJJ9c8o5gWNIxX5lxQYsR3QjU_TdZRrxzwN8FOPbeVt0kbOjgWfvKmrK1jn95clePct3m4VvY9XGqIdp2S8v40YkoaTneRJ2KrPOd4726QFP0LJ3MF/s320/DSC04457.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437167644978341186" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh45hJKT1KhEbfLbEQ4o1skw1A6w0-WEtJsxTXh8_NUTApSaUmw1AXsNnEt1mPQGEbBxmblqbh8u8wUXxclrEU2nrtD8ZEaT476izSrGdut9JwrFMasrUof7H8nji6qPgZLaNa9hkDShCca/s1600-h/DSC04459.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh45hJKT1KhEbfLbEQ4o1skw1A6w0-WEtJsxTXh8_NUTApSaUmw1AXsNnEt1mPQGEbBxmblqbh8u8wUXxclrEU2nrtD8ZEaT476izSrGdut9JwrFMasrUof7H8nji6qPgZLaNa9hkDShCca/s320/DSC04459.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437167529409273122" /></a><br />Occasionally we were thrilled by a view of the Pacific which would appear slowly through the haze . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpYTmqJhdCxjVM5G9A7lZCl4C34XlXkSzys31hCZHHEwRGlvoLBFZsxmLdqVKKuzctXmQ_i_hL3RgwbWPsYSBsI7mrOanV0Ekna6T4sX9b1eWlEcQGJCy5kM4LuzrOAYzfgOikavNDBOyR/s1600-h/DSC04462.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpYTmqJhdCxjVM5G9A7lZCl4C34XlXkSzys31hCZHHEwRGlvoLBFZsxmLdqVKKuzctXmQ_i_hL3RgwbWPsYSBsI7mrOanV0Ekna6T4sX9b1eWlEcQGJCy5kM4LuzrOAYzfgOikavNDBOyR/s320/DSC04462.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437167977223450642" /></a><br />The dunes provided interesting textures and shadows . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSb8o6yz3sTmfTnw-wIcOOpzlojXOrbsqIM8PPFMfDKpy_NM9lbB59aryBvMfDA4FiZGPBBa8Rw0oEJDTlL56MgNtm-SINm2IqRfyyTy_K61vIrlDBoDRrviR3y14ODz9Im44m_3belV0U/s1600-h/DSC04463.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSb8o6yz3sTmfTnw-wIcOOpzlojXOrbsqIM8PPFMfDKpy_NM9lbB59aryBvMfDA4FiZGPBBa8Rw0oEJDTlL56MgNtm-SINm2IqRfyyTy_K61vIrlDBoDRrviR3y14ODz9Im44m_3belV0U/s320/DSC04463.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437168150278114738" /></a><br />Along the road we still encountered trash . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqcrL6NfzqoihnyhpaLdgVs6qFpD7PukCQNVY_31yUQxCktNySPu0X7_d6sFyIQXohEXm7d9olBsIs0tiaXGkPMNf_viPWKoylXdRTGV9vs8uUWW2GSJeSf3spVPL33JdYmcxiGrBUx3BR/s1600-h/DSC04467.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqcrL6NfzqoihnyhpaLdgVs6qFpD7PukCQNVY_31yUQxCktNySPu0X7_d6sFyIQXohEXm7d9olBsIs0tiaXGkPMNf_viPWKoylXdRTGV9vs8uUWW2GSJeSf3spVPL33JdYmcxiGrBUx3BR/s320/DSC04467.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437168332211546706" /></a><br />We decided to bypass Lima, Roger and Vince had been there previously and it’s a dirty and crowded city. But as we passed through the outskirts it was most interesting to see some pretty racy billboards – here’s a naked boy advertising Sprite with the bottle discretely covering his private parts. . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWdR_LXWrU433K4lZnbVMqKSi6fFQiY7UhnCQlUQb3Jriv5GY17jo5KNNX7eSO3AsqG2xnyzwohfPJxG27_Cp8OtDyrnPHWI8ByGdHCqhBqz-dZdYeYcCUp_vZrc2s3RJdXg8oEluJsWqX/s1600-h/DSC04497.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 182px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWdR_LXWrU433K4lZnbVMqKSi6fFQiY7UhnCQlUQb3Jriv5GY17jo5KNNX7eSO3AsqG2xnyzwohfPJxG27_Cp8OtDyrnPHWI8ByGdHCqhBqz-dZdYeYcCUp_vZrc2s3RJdXg8oEluJsWqX/s320/DSC04497.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437177307279776802" /></a><br />There were some other more gamey ones – which Vincent got snaps of, but I was not quick enough to get the shots.<br /><br />We stopped at a resort beach for lunch . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYibLIlkcFMWgo7uZ8VOcNjRyri0mN8xIRvNYmoMup-EV-uZLL9t5NMplwO6FYYNzXKuDGwJ59OBtyMd0jTJRzDVu2oVvgdTESUdm5TDWcJhDv1UQG-pPYIXASZrRG0zhnZvCQAMjg1y9g/s1600-h/DSC04494.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYibLIlkcFMWgo7uZ8VOcNjRyri0mN8xIRvNYmoMup-EV-uZLL9t5NMplwO6FYYNzXKuDGwJ59OBtyMd0jTJRzDVu2oVvgdTESUdm5TDWcJhDv1UQG-pPYIXASZrRG0zhnZvCQAMjg1y9g/s320/DSC04494.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437168589914935634" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJDOLSMfgWrk2vS3VzzRCp4EVL67ZA-lm5LNxoc-CaKsgxcPigU7Mrz44ewHMyqKDd4DBWXefuCyMSIqevy1qh2zVuPAgvKrf21kPuNjks3EBchyphenhyphenOmIlrv4o1Cp-XxDk69Y-nLsfyXDHyj/s1600-h/DSC04495.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJDOLSMfgWrk2vS3VzzRCp4EVL67ZA-lm5LNxoc-CaKsgxcPigU7Mrz44ewHMyqKDd4DBWXefuCyMSIqevy1qh2zVuPAgvKrf21kPuNjks3EBchyphenhyphenOmIlrv4o1Cp-XxDk69Y-nLsfyXDHyj/s320/DSC04495.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437168534333857602" /></a><br />Later that day I tried to change a hundred dollar bill at a bank but they wouldn’t take it because it had a suspicious serial number. At the same time I tried to withdraw money from an ATM but neither of my credit cards worked – fortunately I can borrow money from my friends.<br /><br />We noticed a significant difference between the way an Indian from Ecuador or Peru would want to look and the Mestizo (European-Indian descent) of Colombian. The Colombian woman strive to have large derrières tightly packaged in blue jeans like this . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWmGuP54KWagVz9HEEy4h5wrbfr9-A0U48s7-krT9QLIoSfKYyU0Ey1Zr5Q2r24mEVOI6vRPEKPjhRepuPOvGS9mK7L2PumHsujCrP_noEFG2hxPkSt6pGz7a0VSRPLw8Quy6uggwvD3I3/s1600-h/2W3Y3538.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWmGuP54KWagVz9HEEy4h5wrbfr9-A0U48s7-krT9QLIoSfKYyU0Ey1Zr5Q2r24mEVOI6vRPEKPjhRepuPOvGS9mK7L2PumHsujCrP_noEFG2hxPkSt6pGz7a0VSRPLw8Quy6uggwvD3I3/s320/2W3Y3538.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437168810513703298" /></a><br />. . .whereas the Indians in Ecuador and Peru like thicker mid sections with a slight role (or love handle). Both of these traits have survival value that in prehistoric times would be viewed as favorable qualities to a mate since they would assist in surviving through difficult times. The Turks favor Rubenesque women – a shape that also has survival value. However the Americans, and some Europeans, in the very recent past have favored the anorexic look – some models in magazines such as Vogue go as far as adding thick eye shadow to give a cadaverous Charles Adams look. We now seem to be shifting to a preference for the athletic look with toned muscles; but to us even a small amount of fat is definitely out. <br /><br />I am pondering as to how the American ideal got so far away from the ideal in other cultures and frankly the ideal that would indicate good health. I want to include the disclaimer that I am not favoring a fat obese look that we struggle with in the mid west (other countries struggle with the same problem). There are a lot of short overweight Indian women here in Peru as well; but it does make one wonder.<br /><br />We spent the evening in Pisco at an incredibly nice hotel; but it was incredibly dusty and sandy. There is a haze in the air and the wind blows the dust and Pacific sand everywhere. Helge is pondering where to spend the night with the group next year and I’m sure he will come up with a winner. <br /><br />One of the nice points about the dunes are the dune buggy rides – check out this monster dune buggy. . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGeEmGLVwyd6Hbj92kPDrCHplqnqt4kY7_pyjbS8BJQ0XHlQpuXtO2LfYadFkz6hAhCjz7AnXlDrXHuZEeZCOuPUpP1QDrWVGr2U1VUHMtEHfPmnTj5wfQLofW1_8ZJROyjZMeeNZRAt5i/s1600-h/DSC04541.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGeEmGLVwyd6Hbj92kPDrCHplqnqt4kY7_pyjbS8BJQ0XHlQpuXtO2LfYadFkz6hAhCjz7AnXlDrXHuZEeZCOuPUpP1QDrWVGr2U1VUHMtEHfPmnTj5wfQLofW1_8ZJROyjZMeeNZRAt5i/s320/DSC04541.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437179718933824386" /></a><br />We looked for other hotels and had breakfast at a fancy one nearby . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm6Anc0pIXIey67XmKAL9R2tG0-chP9v-FlUnoFJMqpAgLuodGYvoJk9gbzJR6nTM03YTOMf98aS6fR6ii3WrtTFiIJzx7llWy5aOx1g6Au7m2Yc7xHYYsA3XqDDmAwmIGL0wXBz5VaJdc/s1600-h/DSC04534.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm6Anc0pIXIey67XmKAL9R2tG0-chP9v-FlUnoFJMqpAgLuodGYvoJk9gbzJR6nTM03YTOMf98aS6fR6ii3WrtTFiIJzx7llWy5aOx1g6Au7m2Yc7xHYYsA3XqDDmAwmIGL0wXBz5VaJdc/s320/DSC04534.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437169248344179522" /></a><br />We thought it was a little too fancy so we checked out another hotel and it was even fancier. The hotel selection is a work in process. <br /><br />We headed out of Pisco and drove a short 3-hour distance to Nazca. Nazca is famous for its large scale pictures created by the Incas. Some made by digging trenches and placing stones are nearly a mile in length and can’t really be appreciated from the ground. Some of the lines are thought to have meaning as an agricultural calendar. Later on the others took the airplane tour to get a better view. <br /><br />We visited the museum that features the lines of Nazca and learned about Maria Reiche who discovered, interpreted and helped preserve the images and lines. Although it was very interesting, I think the Incas had accomplishments which far outweigh these lines. I interpret the lines as comparable to the French cave paintings. The Incas established complicated irrigation systems for agriculture, detailed and precise calendar systems, monumental construction and superbly interesting graphics. <br /><br />I left ahead of the others after stopping for a break, got too far ahead and got lost. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQLsog_CyaIee3-C74-JQqLIgG2Shr3ZtmYs5thYtELUVAeEy0YMMLJw2-U5YlKXxLF3KYynL-c9jdlY5mr32OBv0N2TJZPhX_DJFhdQsdqgDxI0TIR6tZnQFnohe8jv_p_7AF8WZ4PuSB/s1600-h/DSC04543.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQLsog_CyaIee3-C74-JQqLIgG2Shr3ZtmYs5thYtELUVAeEy0YMMLJw2-U5YlKXxLF3KYynL-c9jdlY5mr32OBv0N2TJZPhX_DJFhdQsdqgDxI0TIR6tZnQFnohe8jv_p_7AF8WZ4PuSB/s320/DSC04543.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437169517868772594" /></a><br />It was a bit embarrassing – my cell phone wasn’t charged, I had no money and my debit cards weren’t working (and couldn’t speak the language). This was not too worrisome – I had a half tank of gas and my mother always said I’m charming. Luckily I met up with the guys again 50 miles down the road – they had taken another path.<br /><br />We drove into the Atacama Desert to visit an Incan cemetery. The Spaniards, needing funds for their military exploits in Europe, would dig up Indian graves which often contained silver. They would leave the skeletons on the desert, which in turn were preserved by the dryness. Twenty years ago when Helge visited this area the skeletons were still strewn on the ground. On our visit the remaining bones on the desert were few – such as this large femur . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd20x7-ZzAcL0k7jl7Hs0beI6pwvC6icBMN-4t5vIyt-fGHOAK_xeYf4dhaucmxeU4X5sv_gOVq_UIQzDoOHmEKdyWROJ9ts-aP0Oi65pPjH9hEAGm6kpRTaavg8u_EakXomTJS_Q1DSmR/s1600-h/DSC04630.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd20x7-ZzAcL0k7jl7Hs0beI6pwvC6icBMN-4t5vIyt-fGHOAK_xeYf4dhaucmxeU4X5sv_gOVq_UIQzDoOHmEKdyWROJ9ts-aP0Oi65pPjH9hEAGm6kpRTaavg8u_EakXomTJS_Q1DSmR/s320/DSC04630.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437169829329825986" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9qnrjCnuRikeQmanpUeWFr6JgoLG2TwJ8LPoMekkDT_XOTEoM5mw3AqHO4-6jXb7R6hAPh7JlINrSU9Ozjyyf9Q_MaSB8szhau-EiFj79QmLiCrkw6ea50ybDHUpD7qTQCGPkvQD8ZjBb/s1600-h/DSC04625.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9qnrjCnuRikeQmanpUeWFr6JgoLG2TwJ8LPoMekkDT_XOTEoM5mw3AqHO4-6jXb7R6hAPh7JlINrSU9Ozjyyf9Q_MaSB8szhau-EiFj79QmLiCrkw6ea50ybDHUpD7qTQCGPkvQD8ZjBb/s320/DSC04625.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437169763253890322" /></a><br />They have since organized the remains into pits throughout the site.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXd3QWtluN2kzRxugK_CSV62lgga9Iqo48r38yHVBzdaV-obO2poq4auWkxChLgLWJgY_Bie-D5tUlcAsuJacrAoHbirId3PDZtC3OOx4Eau_FNETVSDjwad3ZBjIcW_gCLC2xmyVZW9Ri/s1600-h/DSC04636.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXd3QWtluN2kzRxugK_CSV62lgga9Iqo48r38yHVBzdaV-obO2poq4auWkxChLgLWJgY_Bie-D5tUlcAsuJacrAoHbirId3PDZtC3OOx4Eau_FNETVSDjwad3ZBjIcW_gCLC2xmyVZW9Ri/s320/DSC04636.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437170351303302578" /></a><br />Some of the Indian women we see along the road have very long braids but nothing compared to these mummies . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy315chsGTP_BgL3OEvPw5LgY1nDS6yXL54yBCHMwRwyVrnLIjAlpcVSC9bQxX5ot5GPYpl_3E436kHBVdeyBy4-oty_CMcp4Tu3utDjPncgJldlt1dDukL9fr0DEkrIKnNrM5pRRUQE6l/s1600-h/DSC04645.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy315chsGTP_BgL3OEvPw5LgY1nDS6yXL54yBCHMwRwyVrnLIjAlpcVSC9bQxX5ot5GPYpl_3E436kHBVdeyBy4-oty_CMcp4Tu3utDjPncgJldlt1dDukL9fr0DEkrIKnNrM5pRRUQE6l/s320/DSC04645.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437170542398533250" /></a><br />The braid on this corpse is perhaps 6 feet long . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7sEHZ_Ia4zat-vmN1RxJm4QGTyDFXHIjzNgQEC5FXE01_2jckLLAr61Z5U5KphjDV90tkA0m9GRY3q6tAn_qWNWXXkWRzjvi5f6YnH0jGJThFvrLiuDvhOQYDtjiA4y7UzwM3ETW41K5B/s1600-h/DSC04650.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7sEHZ_Ia4zat-vmN1RxJm4QGTyDFXHIjzNgQEC5FXE01_2jckLLAr61Z5U5KphjDV90tkA0m9GRY3q6tAn_qWNWXXkWRzjvi5f6YnH0jGJThFvrLiuDvhOQYDtjiA4y7UzwM3ETW41K5B/s320/DSC04650.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437170825528545490" /></a><br />The desert naturally mummifies the corpses – this foot (probably 500 years old) still has the skin on it . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinvC1FI7TchHB-53pdVbm-Gsg0ULXAMVfELYEx4VVYZMZZWkEbk6ZqyUlmjJzDkKpr2VElTkfFDIW7XHV9ZY59eOJ-FzAm385D_-cxbzfEkxaSRkNx3KMKiLo7WHJefJ9Ezx3FlhGG1gZY/s1600-h/DSC04666.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinvC1FI7TchHB-53pdVbm-Gsg0ULXAMVfELYEx4VVYZMZZWkEbk6ZqyUlmjJzDkKpr2VElTkfFDIW7XHV9ZY59eOJ-FzAm385D_-cxbzfEkxaSRkNx3KMKiLo7WHJefJ9Ezx3FlhGG1gZY/s320/DSC04666.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437171040757979906" /></a><br />We returned to Nazca and spent the night in a hotel.<br /><br />We left Nazca with the intention of climbing through the mountains as far as Abancay, a stepping stone to Cuzco. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLkpi3bRppyJ10TgxfHsF4-wrjxBkSxGr9OHgtPA0Kir0qZ8x-itKXsvUL2kjC8HUQnBXX-_G9JqkUBsLIK6pnyhRNOxHutIc7HZXt_884LVNeegJ8SGP2xOj1nNQPmzLqGYyk3musG2j/s1600-h/DSC04700.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLkpi3bRppyJ10TgxfHsF4-wrjxBkSxGr9OHgtPA0Kir0qZ8x-itKXsvUL2kjC8HUQnBXX-_G9JqkUBsLIK6pnyhRNOxHutIc7HZXt_884LVNeegJ8SGP2xOj1nNQPmzLqGYyk3musG2j/s320/DSC04700.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437171237873096642" /></a><br />We headed out of the desert after spending 5 days on the straight road in the dust and heat. It was a relief to head up into the mountains even though the desert often rewarded us with the lovely sight of beaches on the Pacific.<br /><br />We climbed over a number of passes from 13,000 feet up to 15,000 feet passing through layers of fog and mist. There was a considerable amount of farming and grazing above 13,000 feet. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ELXj2fdYtrZ1hnh1mCX1yUZ4k5yPn86-bKgp7BkA2MlDGrLw93BbC6DM0hW2ZSlhYyCRaFT9YhnYi5mtKUCZEqKoP6Zqq4NQITB41Huoouo-0UDzCmozj47ceE7UCkAslo4g5VdSlke1/s1600-h/DSC04714.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ELXj2fdYtrZ1hnh1mCX1yUZ4k5yPn86-bKgp7BkA2MlDGrLw93BbC6DM0hW2ZSlhYyCRaFT9YhnYi5mtKUCZEqKoP6Zqq4NQITB41Huoouo-0UDzCmozj47ceE7UCkAslo4g5VdSlke1/s320/DSC04714.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437171438224445106" /></a><br />We were held up by road construction along the way. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjQZWMNEtelWTuGpoefphN6jP9r4Dsh3GNrP0AKQp3wIenEKVlBMHO6dJZ-1m0fRHghjJcABLz6o59o9x4oOTkade_U-3BJc1HBMdWChN5OeQBEnRJ76_WWRaPNpkgMfcXx4C3GyLJViwf/s1600-h/DSC04759.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjQZWMNEtelWTuGpoefphN6jP9r4Dsh3GNrP0AKQp3wIenEKVlBMHO6dJZ-1m0fRHghjJcABLz6o59o9x4oOTkade_U-3BJc1HBMdWChN5OeQBEnRJ76_WWRaPNpkgMfcXx4C3GyLJViwf/s320/DSC04759.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437171628886602962" /></a><br />The delays consumed more than an hour and forced us to ride on rather unstable gravel with the shoulder of the road looming more than 1,000 feet below.<br /><br />While waiting, Helge shows an eager group of young Peruvians the mechanics of his new Zumo GPS. They were handsome young men with curiosity and a well-developed sense of humor.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNEgdNSDVzOP81R75NsOkyTcGo6ndvxpl76Al9Z0XIYagyfNsu-CrRzkW-8-WH1sN-WTtc4-KWoo7LzOmIuG72psPIyqJBhpUo7Hm6LioGq5sBC5QUHCI5FKCW3b6A3_vH_lcs9WaOHSkU/s1600-h/DSC04775.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNEgdNSDVzOP81R75NsOkyTcGo6ndvxpl76Al9Z0XIYagyfNsu-CrRzkW-8-WH1sN-WTtc4-KWoo7LzOmIuG72psPIyqJBhpUo7Hm6LioGq5sBC5QUHCI5FKCW3b6A3_vH_lcs9WaOHSkU/s320/DSC04775.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437171819434935058" /></a><br />The road is clearly difficult to build and equally as difficult to maintain. The rock cliffs are unstable and you could pull them out of the face with your hand. Here a front end loader is traversing the road and removing falling rocks.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZZjzGAn_k6Vxlh9ZwvCW2l18bHjuJlAEfPUKxsowPOR2RdQ3vFZ-YAJFwhCbAD0fhQGitORYDeF_eHlrmofL9o1lHqMdfS6JiuBPZHpHtgov9O9xCr294BB5ePmbH9tZB7snCZUG6Xn0E/s1600-h/DSC04781.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZZjzGAn_k6Vxlh9ZwvCW2l18bHjuJlAEfPUKxsowPOR2RdQ3vFZ-YAJFwhCbAD0fhQGitORYDeF_eHlrmofL9o1lHqMdfS6JiuBPZHpHtgov9O9xCr294BB5ePmbH9tZB7snCZUG6Xn0E/s320/DSC04781.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437172004360547858" /></a><br />This is a lot of work for a road that might see 4 cars an hour – other than those related to the construction.<br /><br />Vincent stretches out for a nap while waiting for the road to open. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfmGszFjZvFrbwmUxyn77W_79IQ9WTnGTEG-udeJufAHAHit0VU4SNuVObpe2xLqxaPtBgxZzPx_3KaO0sGp77Ng17o34DWVi3LRg9IlQwRiC90NIxIpBxTuPtKJYoQPFJsZ0eewxXdzQb/s1600-h/DSC04801.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfmGszFjZvFrbwmUxyn77W_79IQ9WTnGTEG-udeJufAHAHit0VU4SNuVObpe2xLqxaPtBgxZzPx_3KaO0sGp77Ng17o34DWVi3LRg9IlQwRiC90NIxIpBxTuPtKJYoQPFJsZ0eewxXdzQb/s320/DSC04801.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437172221205921202" /></a><br />As we crossed to the other side of the mountain range we begin to see green and with it animals – both off and on the road. This one being an alpaca or perhaps a vicuna. . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl3TYbYjdbzADv-Xt32cN4iMTrNRC55DLmpS-JeQzV2c9IK8mEjhO3B7oIIwWvL4RZMwVB5Vqaxle8xEckjVJNAmO5TnIzTAScr3l4mVGnPusuKsyXWXY_dXPEEJhtIMAWpFqSpXzmznum/s1600-h/DSC04839.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl3TYbYjdbzADv-Xt32cN4iMTrNRC55DLmpS-JeQzV2c9IK8mEjhO3B7oIIwWvL4RZMwVB5Vqaxle8xEckjVJNAmO5TnIzTAScr3l4mVGnPusuKsyXWXY_dXPEEJhtIMAWpFqSpXzmznum/s320/DSC04839.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437172389045332242" /></a><br />Even though we are above 13,000 feet the green is ever present. I would love to know the physics behind the moisture from the Pacific dumping on the eastern side of the range rather than the western.<br /><br />The western side of the range is a desert which runs the length of Peru and into Chile and the eastern side is lush grazing land packed with animals wondering on and off the road.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_R6aQKw_7Q6n_RTvy_dIj6YXN4nz-qwluFCU8SpCzXgBoTpxxBcFFF60xAGAx-7t_p4ZWedF4P1pwLa_BpEl4i2Gy5f2HQuSwLLa5sStlrjBDBKJrNz_BnIv2xNLmCtOk5ajfd78P2tVW/s1600-h/DSC04850.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_R6aQKw_7Q6n_RTvy_dIj6YXN4nz-qwluFCU8SpCzXgBoTpxxBcFFF60xAGAx-7t_p4ZWedF4P1pwLa_BpEl4i2Gy5f2HQuSwLLa5sStlrjBDBKJrNz_BnIv2xNLmCtOk5ajfd78P2tVW/s320/DSC04850.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437172570201597810" /></a><br />In this beautiful mountain area Peru has redeemed itself as there is no longer the trash and debris alongside the road. <br /><br />We pass through some towns packed with colorful Indian apparel.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsjZ_tG0XIlwNvaVvnFJwCm7Pb5RjpNCOe-8q8EhtSqGJ9BuAK7phskhhPqjt8I1hHXdu0HUb6GuxOKTbGIqPG7aD2XpnkN02JJSGjJgmfas0Hx0bHyb42vWnHSMtw-Pj_lrd1lQqnt_27/s1600-h/DSC04887.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsjZ_tG0XIlwNvaVvnFJwCm7Pb5RjpNCOe-8q8EhtSqGJ9BuAK7phskhhPqjt8I1hHXdu0HUb6GuxOKTbGIqPG7aD2XpnkN02JJSGjJgmfas0Hx0bHyb42vWnHSMtw-Pj_lrd1lQqnt_27/s320/DSC04887.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437173006476608690" /></a><br />We meet this nice lady who has four children. Three of the children are walking with her and the forth, unbeknownst to us, is in a pouch on her back.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUCSI4jid8qj5lKvtDjjiIY0FZKA_os72u2kWTUKmkjOp1Km0Bol16pLroHAoyEW2sUid7HyQrPsphJTMNydtlUYZMIaYXdYkyZC_Cc8vUX1eCd4Mj0PFjZVA-vIskW_yVAhaMPVs9Q1eX/s1600-h/DSC04902.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUCSI4jid8qj5lKvtDjjiIY0FZKA_os72u2kWTUKmkjOp1Km0Bol16pLroHAoyEW2sUid7HyQrPsphJTMNydtlUYZMIaYXdYkyZC_Cc8vUX1eCd4Mj0PFjZVA-vIskW_yVAhaMPVs9Q1eX/s320/DSC04902.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437173184006340690" /></a><br />The child in the pouch begins to cry and with one svelte motion she swings the pouch around to her front and begins nursing the baby.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk4QFfxRCTnWlpfUqosgXKhcmyJT4DfT7_s8ty3f87HKvm3u62ZUYO-H18yjw2BuK4O4O3NWQHBG4k45oluMjva5hZilxCf0xGSN8IlKwjJhyphenhyphenaHa-oHaNJ9puwMDOk243LMdGgqk6gig6k/s1600-h/DSC04904.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk4QFfxRCTnWlpfUqosgXKhcmyJT4DfT7_s8ty3f87HKvm3u62ZUYO-H18yjw2BuK4O4O3NWQHBG4k45oluMjva5hZilxCf0xGSN8IlKwjJhyphenhyphenaHa-oHaNJ9puwMDOk243LMdGgqk6gig6k/s320/DSC04904.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437173369919535122" /></a><br />I saw another interesting maneuver by an Indian woman – she was squatting by the side of the road as though resting wearing a full colorful skirt; but I noticed she was relieving herself – without the slightest hint of embarrassment.<br /><br />As we approach 15,000 feet the weather begins to look iffy and we see the clouds release snow and rain.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ601yn3nl0PYUnWdOZsUy23UBZim1pT4z_XSbC1yIOpvQPqkv3dPSFqcrfL3oIibjorEpl7kguYpO_ebS7hq3cE1A8U7CO2LLhIJh9lg1gZRxAWt5dnEf8b92TQ42TyCK3Q8kIKCFDCEv/s1600-h/DSC04922.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ601yn3nl0PYUnWdOZsUy23UBZim1pT4z_XSbC1yIOpvQPqkv3dPSFqcrfL3oIibjorEpl7kguYpO_ebS7hq3cE1A8U7CO2LLhIJh9lg1gZRxAWt5dnEf8b92TQ42TyCK3Q8kIKCFDCEv/s320/DSC04922.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437173528272403410" /></a><br />As we crest the top we see snow on the mountain and begin to get a light snow shower. In addition to the snow there is gravel on the corners – we are slow, methodical and careful.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEunUH9otnmIZd7D4m-IsyP7qwKtCR16k32cb0fiUkJ_aYC37gP4cugxpo7lZGFDZk9xOHIanA-Rmp-Ofn_bdgDx6pb1sNVYjPRgAp8AAOyF8pu3iqVgG3bZRmndgCDTMQ71wfDmbbaexk/s1600-h/DSC04930.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEunUH9otnmIZd7D4m-IsyP7qwKtCR16k32cb0fiUkJ_aYC37gP4cugxpo7lZGFDZk9xOHIanA-Rmp-Ofn_bdgDx6pb1sNVYjPRgAp8AAOyF8pu3iqVgG3bZRmndgCDTMQ71wfDmbbaexk/s320/DSC04930.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437173688746338738" /></a><br />Riding down the other side we see the road looping through the valley as it sheds 3,000 feet of altitude.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN8MFXsJ_MT58qWs4W5FokBsBwjm_dmR7h1vDwX-tll7UGCSulNPqq-FWYSFKwz8gi7-aDiK8qGEOUZ5zP6t2zsap_nrNPp3EOKiv4QlNHRYEYY34k4NniPXyvxjY_mcy50tJrTs727wIC/s1600-h/DSC04934.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN8MFXsJ_MT58qWs4W5FokBsBwjm_dmR7h1vDwX-tll7UGCSulNPqq-FWYSFKwz8gi7-aDiK8qGEOUZ5zP6t2zsap_nrNPp3EOKiv4QlNHRYEYY34k4NniPXyvxjY_mcy50tJrTs727wIC/s320/DSC04934.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437173862079614962" /></a><br />We pass through some gorges . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhapDpfMP0_c5f4FugqN1VHfuV06KT-oPkM4nxJSlhVM_h5Dui5kHPIuHVqS-TsGU1RAHHVseks5xWKyNmB4nDXZ-4taPWNxRTd1msBcZxLCLa7aUwJRzqCiAjk9UsVf1kt0xkAjEDhZ_qz/s1600-h/DSC04937.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhapDpfMP0_c5f4FugqN1VHfuV06KT-oPkM4nxJSlhVM_h5Dui5kHPIuHVqS-TsGU1RAHHVseks5xWKyNmB4nDXZ-4taPWNxRTd1msBcZxLCLa7aUwJRzqCiAjk9UsVf1kt0xkAjEDhZ_qz/s320/DSC04937.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437174025885843266" /></a><br />We fall about 2 hours short of making it to Abancay and end up spending the night at a beautiful motel-chalet arrangement developed by an Italian married to a Peruvian lady.<br /><br />Vince and Roger catch fish for our dinner in a pond and the chef prepares it magnificently. <br /><br />We have no Internet or cell phone service so I have every intention of retiring by 9:00 p.m.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-13567832307115630732010-02-11T05:44:00.000-08:002010-02-11T13:47:55.019-08:00Day 30-34 – February 3-7<strong><em>Quito, Ecuador to Cuenca, Ecuador to Cuenca, Ecuador, to Macara Ecuador to Chiclayo, Peru to Huarmey, Peru</em></strong><br /><br />We took the day off in Quito on the 3rd – I caught up on work, and the others went for a tour of Quito. They visited a park which celebrates the equator; you’d assume it is located on the equator – but it’s not – and everyone with a GPS knows it is not. It’s largely a tourist trap. At the park along with them were 18,000 Latin American Herbal Lite sales distributors from Latin America. In Bogota alone, one distributor told us, there are over 4,500 distributors. Herbal Lite, as you may know, is a dietary supplement that is supposed to make you feel better – and we were told that even the poor Ecuadorians were gobbling it up. They use a very effective pyramid marketing approach in which if you are a successful salesman you can graduate to a distributor and receive commissions from all of your salesmen. The raw material cost is practically nothing – sales commission is by far the largest cost component.<br /><br />That evening, we took a taxi to a restaurant with a 360 degree view of Quito and were amazed at the size of the city. The capital is the largest city in Ecuador and has a population of approximately 1.6 million. <br /><br />The next morning, we again followed our early morning routine, up at 6:00 a.m. to avoid the traffic. We headed out of Quito as the sky was just beginning to brighten: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6ytey2dyuoGqwRXwByaCX7TpbufBEdadFWKv2lXK1M2FDiRhKLLdvEgCM018KeVfOJ-EpUag3YyD7cIOlMiXMLCk6m3tgkd-tSh2Avv_Fnycg68Wo93jMrNVc-gZuzKDkvbJXHKrRAl8/s1600-h/DSC04050.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6ytey2dyuoGqwRXwByaCX7TpbufBEdadFWKv2lXK1M2FDiRhKLLdvEgCM018KeVfOJ-EpUag3YyD7cIOlMiXMLCk6m3tgkd-tSh2Avv_Fnycg68Wo93jMrNVc-gZuzKDkvbJXHKrRAl8/s320/DSC04050.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436981750533844498" /></a><br />After passing through a tunnel that got us out of the city quickly, we had breakfast at a gas station.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ_M85vPxy64jCxCx77PJu0HseV5BcTFITYR_0elmSg2hkP9_YGGMUZ7afBPA-gH2iyAWiAiPle2CvBZ8NXYJ9lUl7nBY9tbnBB_EuQpGly3c9P1Epf0oIuHb3XMO85wgGjPHy7Kj0p0tq/s1600-h/DSC04059.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ_M85vPxy64jCxCx77PJu0HseV5BcTFITYR_0elmSg2hkP9_YGGMUZ7afBPA-gH2iyAWiAiPle2CvBZ8NXYJ9lUl7nBY9tbnBB_EuQpGly3c9P1Epf0oIuHb3XMO85wgGjPHy7Kj0p0tq/s320/DSC04059.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436981881421284498" /></a><br />Vincent starts each morning with a nice big can of Red Bull to keep his senses sufficiently electrified with caffeine and sugar. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-P_Dp8Zo65ezeC-Y_3TmFIdEfLa8X-If8izkIx-VNFzIL1YrPeOToBxz4wQEoyp_mak-B2FhxwDEe-WzPp-Bekw9loSmpL-e4I7vS_Fg88jk2SC8kyjdmJ9m4XZOlDJ_LSUVqZ8DAeTpG/s1600-h/DSC04060.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-P_Dp8Zo65ezeC-Y_3TmFIdEfLa8X-If8izkIx-VNFzIL1YrPeOToBxz4wQEoyp_mak-B2FhxwDEe-WzPp-Bekw9loSmpL-e4I7vS_Fg88jk2SC8kyjdmJ9m4XZOlDJ_LSUVqZ8DAeTpG/s320/DSC04060.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436983276442651490" /></a><br />It looked like rain all day, but we escaped it. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN0mWWoRVJEcbyP_MTbMSGHhtk6GeA8GEWjeN2bFvN-b0yglTXlh_ErSzqI4dJBXXOuJv55IyzpbWLyBTXtAJ0iPOSoMBA9PgjLYSYBmZfHxHeUnC4P5ZlGhRgxQZnU5pWYIflZBB-8efb/s1600-h/DSC04069.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN0mWWoRVJEcbyP_MTbMSGHhtk6GeA8GEWjeN2bFvN-b0yglTXlh_ErSzqI4dJBXXOuJv55IyzpbWLyBTXtAJ0iPOSoMBA9PgjLYSYBmZfHxHeUnC4P5ZlGhRgxQZnU5pWYIflZBB-8efb/s320/DSC04069.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436983392080428242" /></a><br />The clouds were captivating; we climbed through them on our way to 12,000 feet.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAczNgTMqnPnizGW-GukUl6Wv7UkJRGmZIsdZoy8uVSQBBnOytyeNv4yTsqzJbzDwJJZVE138PmNreUK4FM7Iy0ID7iL3w3V3MOqfZywkEA-Z96IroxmonlA8HKecocFpxN4W6WCZcMaL-/s1600-h/DSC04117.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAczNgTMqnPnizGW-GukUl6Wv7UkJRGmZIsdZoy8uVSQBBnOytyeNv4yTsqzJbzDwJJZVE138PmNreUK4FM7Iy0ID7iL3w3V3MOqfZywkEA-Z96IroxmonlA8HKecocFpxN4W6WCZcMaL-/s320/DSC04117.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437104480813715362" /></a><br />They seemed to pour over the mountains like water over a dam, creating a chill in the valleys.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVw9-XN17pqs1dH6W2e3i5hJ7D6rZ_1gw46N5oncUcVrMPuVnIEGPlfjzQbUxtX7AT6l0YYXo-JWnDqqd7sPXMl7B-7w1UshOH4JrFq41appxMkoTEuaF6xp4AfpC5YrYZf1JgzcGR7lVD/s1600-h/DSC04134.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVw9-XN17pqs1dH6W2e3i5hJ7D6rZ_1gw46N5oncUcVrMPuVnIEGPlfjzQbUxtX7AT6l0YYXo-JWnDqqd7sPXMl7B-7w1UshOH4JrFq41appxMkoTEuaF6xp4AfpC5YrYZf1JgzcGR7lVD/s320/DSC04134.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436983720774429202" /></a><br />As we had seen in Central America, there were a lot of roads with steep inclines carved into the sides of hills, creating the potential for mudslides and cave-ins—these roads must be a bear to maintain. <br />We saw a lot of homemade improvised logistics along the way – a man transporting bananas in his pickup truck . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1w4QbZxoRwr8HyWuJgxpI56sFRc03zEyq54xljwsEjDIACxU5Ih8wddSNJcGovHBS1wcPqjDvO-v1xith6PkLxt7trkW3sTcdZoEVGAHtCIed9vJKw_rMioToJMMtVTCT4uFAeCwXDsvU/s1600-h/DSC04089.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1w4QbZxoRwr8HyWuJgxpI56sFRc03zEyq54xljwsEjDIACxU5Ih8wddSNJcGovHBS1wcPqjDvO-v1xith6PkLxt7trkW3sTcdZoEVGAHtCIed9vJKw_rMioToJMMtVTCT4uFAeCwXDsvU/s320/DSC04089.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436983911263568770" /></a><br />A man carrying water and his son on a motorbike . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAzZROkRZuC3m0rauA6mp7uVFUTFD1v4Un8Zy5hW-LYYGTjIE64cLLfi8R-poF3Cp1_O6A8zJpRrDVlrgnOIWW-EXUSX7PodvFHybkY64pIAtEpRllzQGQtmX9q827i-WYrUxPuL-XXqoB/s1600-h/DSC04092.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAzZROkRZuC3m0rauA6mp7uVFUTFD1v4Un8Zy5hW-LYYGTjIE64cLLfi8R-poF3Cp1_O6A8zJpRrDVlrgnOIWW-EXUSX7PodvFHybkY64pIAtEpRllzQGQtmX9q827i-WYrUxPuL-XXqoB/s320/DSC04092.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436984021257632354" /></a><br />And more produce in a pickup truck . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNzYz48IcVY69ju4nXh4p2CfKfFgy_tlqmGZfKa_MbG2Tfyy_XlE3XIEWo22TXQlStcghoCBuBlB45X0Wo3Z3sUKkbFaZN2lB7IScHCn2d2IWolx5hfjmFSwnkM2FzrYKvyMRO7L4u3H5b/s1600-h/DSC04107.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNzYz48IcVY69ju4nXh4p2CfKfFgy_tlqmGZfKa_MbG2Tfyy_XlE3XIEWo22TXQlStcghoCBuBlB45X0Wo3Z3sUKkbFaZN2lB7IScHCn2d2IWolx5hfjmFSwnkM2FzrYKvyMRO7L4u3H5b/s320/DSC04107.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436984657739857282" /></a><br />This cow seemed to want to hit us . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq7gFkkTExlOSRba9VyHQGQifHcG-uSTO4SCN8bEEHyc-FXuuRdAUL9DcEjubeSoTJI5KOcX8lfa_ylz8-aeY1xws1V5glNaIksxe-tZIKTlSf8RON3cXtPjUl2PK2wBJZ4pKbiwB88hsi/s1600-h/DSC04125.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq7gFkkTExlOSRba9VyHQGQifHcG-uSTO4SCN8bEEHyc-FXuuRdAUL9DcEjubeSoTJI5KOcX8lfa_ylz8-aeY1xws1V5glNaIksxe-tZIKTlSf8RON3cXtPjUl2PK2wBJZ4pKbiwB88hsi/s320/DSC04125.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436984783876498802" /></a><br />We decided to have lunch the Ecuadorian way: pig chunks cooked until nearly brittle<br />. . . not very tasty…<br /><br />Nor were the assorted accompaniments, like field corn and a mystery potato concoction . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfem8_l6CNkLGT3nWSQ1nNsNo39BL39ztcKQx7OjRHktpf3SUHUong8D9WrxW2Dn54Cu8tNpmwtl9hLRjlDof1eE2aGMYNmeUuib7Mcd4p_OQV8vLDSlB4ZB8DTL64VI0Dv3Mtp8WFtTsI/s1600-h/DSC04149.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfem8_l6CNkLGT3nWSQ1nNsNo39BL39ztcKQx7OjRHktpf3SUHUong8D9WrxW2Dn54Cu8tNpmwtl9hLRjlDof1eE2aGMYNmeUuib7Mcd4p_OQV8vLDSlB4ZB8DTL64VI0Dv3Mtp8WFtTsI/s320/DSC04149.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436985011070234882" /></a><br />Three enormous pigs were lined up and hanging in a row at the outdoor market. The proprietress said it takes two days to sell the whole pig . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-2KZ5nCKzsJkxblQjRzucNjvr5J-4i4yUGlE78H4oupmdhufDfA2OkddwHrLZKJWH8mIvGXfy3FzFXjP9NEHPgPU7T8fbAVofjFxkfA0kAxc-E9HsfHkD6AQgatLTdRhKaGbW8MFfoRAl/s1600-h/DSC04156.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-2KZ5nCKzsJkxblQjRzucNjvr5J-4i4yUGlE78H4oupmdhufDfA2OkddwHrLZKJWH8mIvGXfy3FzFXjP9NEHPgPU7T8fbAVofjFxkfA0kAxc-E9HsfHkD6AQgatLTdRhKaGbW8MFfoRAl/s320/DSC04156.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436985210552885570" /></a><br />We were in an area with mostly Indians – a very handsome group...<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYfcfuZpyQ98om1oGB2Wr5rW-1JJK1AV88eIHV_j-hpRz6WeleenRmppZ-kvJyToYCPUNzD56sGxWT8ByjhY3N4ox3U4iDtRjcxHvnfEJR83IcAWrOGJu7AAC6JQGdJbrjCk6eqxJz_syM/s1600-h/DSC04141.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYfcfuZpyQ98om1oGB2Wr5rW-1JJK1AV88eIHV_j-hpRz6WeleenRmppZ-kvJyToYCPUNzD56sGxWT8ByjhY3N4ox3U4iDtRjcxHvnfEJR83IcAWrOGJu7AAC6JQGdJbrjCk6eqxJz_syM/s320/DSC04141.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436985506249019186" /></a><br />Including lots of children . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt77OT2Ule8JaBgb3b0dL9SjenwMWlTCU2S34n2Fs4LFEejdirosrTuydjxwwk1JJ8dLI6mxkV_hdAMyJP-zr_8U8GZRUoR-EMEbavgR22ODSf52iMd1Q_dgCQjRJ8j42xIkle9YxbET0e/s1600-h/DSC04157.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt77OT2Ule8JaBgb3b0dL9SjenwMWlTCU2S34n2Fs4LFEejdirosrTuydjxwwk1JJ8dLI6mxkV_hdAMyJP-zr_8U8GZRUoR-EMEbavgR22ODSf52iMd1Q_dgCQjRJ8j42xIkle9YxbET0e/s320/DSC04157.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436985691920830738" /></a><br />Well cared for by their mothers and grandmothers . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqxuw2EK2qUZQjVps33c0ibbB0HuoF4qNqPRrNe5tBc2I0LnKh3iz04E704JrSGrN6qfXz_rOR1kr4C2WJCQvjiMl_oTFxB_l81UUuWbUzwowRg08Z07qrZMksZfX_wwagr0yMYx6kjPzD/s1600-h/DSC04158.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqxuw2EK2qUZQjVps33c0ibbB0HuoF4qNqPRrNe5tBc2I0LnKh3iz04E704JrSGrN6qfXz_rOR1kr4C2WJCQvjiMl_oTFxB_l81UUuWbUzwowRg08Z07qrZMksZfX_wwagr0yMYx6kjPzD/s320/DSC04158.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436985815520483346" /></a><br />Who wore hats that looked like they were inherited from Eliot Ness.<br /><br />In Central America, school children wore any attire they wanted; just passing by on the road, I could see some unhealthy competition between them as they vied for highest fashion honors. But in Ecuador it appears as though all the children wear uniforms – they look neat, clean and sophisticated. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhu5um3I6cu0AiigRw_dbVvaSnsuHglWC3jEee8WbB_limb5AUSq7xj8xg7bGs0XZT_japGwe2mzRhrXvop-HE8Giauy5zA0RhWQr8fHdwh67nhlxbZkCia9jKG6VpC7rSvHg61k_VG5Pn/s1600-h/DSC04171.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhu5um3I6cu0AiigRw_dbVvaSnsuHglWC3jEee8WbB_limb5AUSq7xj8xg7bGs0XZT_japGwe2mzRhrXvop-HE8Giauy5zA0RhWQr8fHdwh67nhlxbZkCia9jKG6VpC7rSvHg61k_VG5Pn/s320/DSC04171.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436986726329187282" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlXl_YDC7LLpqWsaA_nUz92G7osPb33PJhKO-4ffB0SEwxTbPnd2ZQQ0B8kMrNxdkojxVP9yiwTd9pCQeaeo5Ltl8l0rWkF-aCbCRtamFouL9W2mc9NoeDQ84u4gNocisDfG9DTwpREJK5/s1600-h/DSC04165.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlXl_YDC7LLpqWsaA_nUz92G7osPb33PJhKO-4ffB0SEwxTbPnd2ZQQ0B8kMrNxdkojxVP9yiwTd9pCQeaeo5Ltl8l0rWkF-aCbCRtamFouL9W2mc9NoeDQ84u4gNocisDfG9DTwpREJK5/s320/DSC04165.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436986929481099714" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv3qXARtqG2-T8okUUgMdne7Crkl_87I0-b-j5MOChLtx8TnhRJGOgRq3JBc5axDCIGZA0Ez6LG2bIdFX0HcLOZ1-WTfsxiY11pFnaQHopekueh22BPj06rJ-zui0azZnnhOnV1mNNr4LF/s1600-h/DSC04166.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv3qXARtqG2-T8okUUgMdne7Crkl_87I0-b-j5MOChLtx8TnhRJGOgRq3JBc5axDCIGZA0Ez6LG2bIdFX0HcLOZ1-WTfsxiY11pFnaQHopekueh22BPj06rJ-zui0azZnnhOnV1mNNr4LF/s320/DSC04166.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436986879233784786" /></a><br />I think this uniform approach would work in any large city where there is difficulty controlling the culture in the schools.<br /><br />We’ve met a number of other motorcyclists. We met software engineer from Washington State who had been on the road for six months – his wife joins him periodically. We met a 35-year-old Swiss man who had been on the road for nine months and a Brit who had been on the road just as long. They all planned to ride another 3 months. Here is an Ecuadorian minister of some evangelical persuasion who is an adventure motorcycle fanatic and very knowledgeable. He told me things about my own motorcycle that I didn’t know. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHeu9M-u64qr81wzwxg72Ow2D4y7xAEATIAznMGTUc9pHt3LLAMxOWASn2TXGn0fheNphqc2ePacpynPyG9NRIDYxos_GjQlA_LrK8cAy_tQu4AmudoyKQbskSjE3osynJWFWTjP4Sxj33/s1600-h/DSC04168.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHeu9M-u64qr81wzwxg72Ow2D4y7xAEATIAznMGTUc9pHt3LLAMxOWASn2TXGn0fheNphqc2ePacpynPyG9NRIDYxos_GjQlA_LrK8cAy_tQu4AmudoyKQbskSjE3osynJWFWTjP4Sxj33/s320/DSC04168.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436987156397824850" /></a><br />We arrived at Cuenca, Ecuador that afternoon – not quite as far as we had hoped to go, but it turned out to be a very nice city. We stayed at the Victoria Hotel, which I would highly recommend. Out my window, I saw a religious procession passing by with some sort of holy figure, loud music, and all sorts of chanting.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPAyQHAXP693b80Bzl6RcUfxm7y0YUMzpqr6GT7ye8cgbSydIDc2mEG7Bu9k5d9LbCj-dEuo9WVrvQEJvpUrdt9J4mFvm8frkK72KDuAiqw3lqUPFXU3ZVZWdfQ-WPLpXLkjrBxhgmO8Nq/s1600-h/DSC04173.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPAyQHAXP693b80Bzl6RcUfxm7y0YUMzpqr6GT7ye8cgbSydIDc2mEG7Bu9k5d9LbCj-dEuo9WVrvQEJvpUrdt9J4mFvm8frkK72KDuAiqw3lqUPFXU3ZVZWdfQ-WPLpXLkjrBxhgmO8Nq/s320/DSC04173.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436987313990347826" /></a><br />The only downside to the city was that it was filled with American expats, students and tourists.<br /><br />The next morning, we got up early and later stopped for lunch at a truck stop . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx_S_Pdmh80titbfW5CY-5nDPKIbmUGsyTFWKTB_cjYczDMDiGU3SLK9CGM76HJ-jyT_EtKl0qjZKUTaH8CC4YUD2Xol5eGPWnMcBY_Z_gMv5AMeiMEEMvAOr-oPKYxCBRGyTDEruILy6g/s1600-h/DSC04279.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx_S_Pdmh80titbfW5CY-5nDPKIbmUGsyTFWKTB_cjYczDMDiGU3SLK9CGM76HJ-jyT_EtKl0qjZKUTaH8CC4YUD2Xol5eGPWnMcBY_Z_gMv5AMeiMEEMvAOr-oPKYxCBRGyTDEruILy6g/s320/DSC04279.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436987446410153970" /></a><br />. . . where our vegetarians, Vince and Helge, had quite tasty fried fish. Roger and I had something called SARC – short for South American Racing Chicken. We got one slender leg with all the properties of a Goodyear tire – nearly inedible. The backyard near the outhouse was full of chickens that were foraging on their own – these were not coddled Purdue-type chickens. Only the fastest and the leanest survived long enough to make it to Roger’s and my plates. This explains the tardiness of our meal as the owner does not attempt to catch a chicken until he has an order. <br /><br />We saw a lot of different travelers along the road – the donkey was popular . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZIO1H1TG7bhrUebvFgql5QTUmITjCpovyuSJ9w2a2ibbEUcwWCvByGSf6Ts5z3DeJUL0k5pBsmYzFKYk5aFryd4eKB1dbV9M9TuErj7BVc6D0bhwJngluSRx3HWI3kbKX_ISo4CCW0VDs/s1600-h/DSC04280.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZIO1H1TG7bhrUebvFgql5QTUmITjCpovyuSJ9w2a2ibbEUcwWCvByGSf6Ts5z3DeJUL0k5pBsmYzFKYk5aFryd4eKB1dbV9M9TuErj7BVc6D0bhwJngluSRx3HWI3kbKX_ISo4CCW0VDs/s320/DSC04280.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436987658681773970" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2B91UbQXzTZjgVtf8KJUAY0NFueaBCdvTf6HzwVWqPfmXmf4CsWsDVqptRkGf7Eb4ZjAZCtQDopsgeW8ZH3lGySAsUYxIVmve3Avvhnih2DXSr1qGjiwgLtgM_z-zhuwhCXQP__7ASrHJ/s1600-h/DSC04282.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2B91UbQXzTZjgVtf8KJUAY0NFueaBCdvTf6HzwVWqPfmXmf4CsWsDVqptRkGf7Eb4ZjAZCtQDopsgeW8ZH3lGySAsUYxIVmve3Avvhnih2DXSr1qGjiwgLtgM_z-zhuwhCXQP__7ASrHJ/s320/DSC04282.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436987601798000242" /></a><br />There were three-person motorbikes . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFC1TNBi1dvC1Fckjgr3LiPzQa7KowUcnAC8plLdP4J6a7vtDU4sHHQVL1Rn1c3K1KjVRYMgrvVGJO_WO7il_ytd3TOyslc7D5W-N9Qk4mqt5caxnQY9tLPDVPFbM4n3DbPN6GIBa4SNjQ/s1600-h/DSC04271.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFC1TNBi1dvC1Fckjgr3LiPzQa7KowUcnAC8plLdP4J6a7vtDU4sHHQVL1Rn1c3K1KjVRYMgrvVGJO_WO7il_ytd3TOyslc7D5W-N9Qk4mqt5caxnQY9tLPDVPFbM4n3DbPN6GIBa4SNjQ/s320/DSC04271.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436987786128211938" /></a><br />And four-person motorbikes . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ9KLFL-5ASz7OCABfkKivlKbB8t1hoOBC3qsp1uNMzTd38LcAZ7DcU_3qLHOClxRFFQL2_vGh3gLotzFo0mQ-hCwPfBLjIJrpGehbQ65Brn8INHyXjmMpaAFb0qQClG4_hGZGNPX-4Yr8/s1600-h/DSC04293.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ9KLFL-5ASz7OCABfkKivlKbB8t1hoOBC3qsp1uNMzTd38LcAZ7DcU_3qLHOClxRFFQL2_vGh3gLotzFo0mQ-hCwPfBLjIJrpGehbQ65Brn8INHyXjmMpaAFb0qQClG4_hGZGNPX-4Yr8/s320/DSC04293.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436987901149800114" /></a><br />The roads, which were carved into steep cliffs, were lined with only a small curb at best, which for a motorcycle can only serve as a particularly effective trip-line. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoerNeDf-r17rsGlkZcCucUE-syGDaPn27-lTsqnrtyBUErDO0N_2UfsXyfB-Y6ZvD7KOn77a6J6Pwy_tC3kf5Ekrj_nlw8uMzf00c9sFYQdjs1gpfeA-a6rD8OcVuMmTcAuy3uRiDAq17/s1600-h/DSC04287.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoerNeDf-r17rsGlkZcCucUE-syGDaPn27-lTsqnrtyBUErDO0N_2UfsXyfB-Y6ZvD7KOn77a6J6Pwy_tC3kf5Ekrj_nlw8uMzf00c9sFYQdjs1gpfeA-a6rD8OcVuMmTcAuy3uRiDAq17/s320/DSC04287.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436988152742821650" /></a><br />The fields we rode past were well-tended, and we were surprised to see them growing rice.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoKPSVuUPD-G4l8sq9T8iOMCWK40eqwnrDl1IaG8EF7ZVMaTPJLNV-NwXhPsFFcAZK841kzF-Y1uHAg-t_UC2zKdmTxz9-uADz00w36-QFo93D1XWLopp6VQe7H4up5LmMQ8faKLZCEe08/s1600-h/DSC04291.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoKPSVuUPD-G4l8sq9T8iOMCWK40eqwnrDl1IaG8EF7ZVMaTPJLNV-NwXhPsFFcAZK841kzF-Y1uHAg-t_UC2zKdmTxz9-uADz00w36-QFo93D1XWLopp6VQe7H4up5LmMQ8faKLZCEe08/s320/DSC04291.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436988422885829890" /></a><br />We were still riding in and out of the clouds.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA6PRMDHf7JG3sjts9d9Zr3bFPtJI-ncsIwqzs5c0yO9Jtum8FGOtj69KnxRgjvLnL-UROVaaL9RDByF5r8jkIhZGsaV2_3_ZdSfpMUsjpcdwhBJpt9Va_7j1_vRTWPmQF8u_Ov_UCSfnx/s1600-h/DSC04273.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA6PRMDHf7JG3sjts9d9Zr3bFPtJI-ncsIwqzs5c0yO9Jtum8FGOtj69KnxRgjvLnL-UROVaaL9RDByF5r8jkIhZGsaV2_3_ZdSfpMUsjpcdwhBJpt9Va_7j1_vRTWPmQF8u_Ov_UCSfnx/s320/DSC04273.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436988591619365330" /></a><br />We arrived at the dusty little border town of Macara, which appeared deserted at first. We found a $10-a-night hotel and were able to lock our motorcycles inside their basement garage. I got a can of fruit juice and two water bottles – the bill was US$1.25. <br /><br />That night the town came alive: children were running in the streets with their dogs, and virtually everyone was out on the town. To me it looked scary – the next morning when we left, everything was again boarded up – it looked like Baghdad. Poverty and petty thievery is a big problem here.<br /><br />It rained the entire night. When we started out in the morning, it was still drizzling – the roads were a muddy mess and the rivers were raging:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkI_EYE9qbCgFLxGgd_ZP18mBfeB8kiH6BUz6gEjbjQT_del5LgMGBDW50X_w-zgqClfHC1jeo_1s_YhLyWxeQByYn3khwGXITJbht17wYQVpwAB2JKq9YDSWM9Z4OIqq-SJdFF4q8aqe1/s1600-h/DSC04298.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkI_EYE9qbCgFLxGgd_ZP18mBfeB8kiH6BUz6gEjbjQT_del5LgMGBDW50X_w-zgqClfHC1jeo_1s_YhLyWxeQByYn3khwGXITJbht17wYQVpwAB2JKq9YDSWM9Z4OIqq-SJdFF4q8aqe1/s320/DSC04298.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436988740997516866" /></a><br />We crossed the border into Peru at Macara, bypassing the main PanAmerican highway border crossing which is closer to the coast. Crossing the border at this point is far less cumbersome and time consuming. The crossing started out smoothly, but soon the computers shut down and the poor border guard had to go through the process by hand (Helge helped him out).<br /><br />We had breakfast at the border and met this adorable Indian family selling fruit:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN1rIqlF8-6t5KPRHwiNDWVmM3TB1jSBmC9HeuGs-W10aPLuTHc1M7rW5QrQd_5XDEadwCFN1UopMJyqnR2kjaW6GnCApMUuNho8nACgQ7jjibUGDDDApDeh5QeNV1xzdAIg7VXRbqEohe/s1600-h/DSC04296.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN1rIqlF8-6t5KPRHwiNDWVmM3TB1jSBmC9HeuGs-W10aPLuTHc1M7rW5QrQd_5XDEadwCFN1UopMJyqnR2kjaW6GnCApMUuNho8nACgQ7jjibUGDDDApDeh5QeNV1xzdAIg7VXRbqEohe/s320/DSC04296.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436988936398303730" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7gOvvbLO1X758hRZk1-VNiyCk4I9VHhpZWevptZtgN9LJUuQntU5spnyOdr4HHzKne2-Ck1l1dugFoqAm7AL9nxk09EQ8O9opDWf9FupiRBWzu6SlI31IOH7ZQqVbpiiQ0FvnB6kROXim/s1600-h/DSC04297.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7gOvvbLO1X758hRZk1-VNiyCk4I9VHhpZWevptZtgN9LJUuQntU5spnyOdr4HHzKne2-Ck1l1dugFoqAm7AL9nxk09EQ8O9opDWf9FupiRBWzu6SlI31IOH7ZQqVbpiiQ0FvnB6kROXim/s320/DSC04297.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436988862261109042" /></a><br />Vincent amused the border guards with the apps on his iPhone.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifidBEnndh0YZNCRLD9gEUaieS-YweroOaQgMqIy5XyTt5cUvWDPvPnI5jEHOi3MPsH6xMOb8YatcwlYJ7N3ABvFiARAhvdF2XPNGvCYU4fgX1BuPROk6DYzwMckngP6QqHrcWNYPydbUg/s1600-h/DSC04300.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifidBEnndh0YZNCRLD9gEUaieS-YweroOaQgMqIy5XyTt5cUvWDPvPnI5jEHOi3MPsH6xMOb8YatcwlYJ7N3ABvFiARAhvdF2XPNGvCYU4fgX1BuPROk6DYzwMckngP6QqHrcWNYPydbUg/s320/DSC04300.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436989054632455730" /></a><br />There was a big difference between rural Ecuador and rural Peru. Peru has significantly more poverty – the housing is often made from woven palms, with dirt floors and of course no plumbing. We saw many animals on the road – goats, donkeys (one donkey was nursing its young in the middle of the road), pigs, dogs and chickens (one of which Roger hit – but it was robust enough to keep running). <br /><br />Three-wheeled carts dominated the roads: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr5zWymr2cPwW0qbyHOpLQWdhGPdA16meOZH2l0EmWMqmnpOuiAeir_lhViUYRGc7CO5L3GE6zVNmARFCVgs7zoA8MT9ibTM__udxYUGuE_3j3hvppSwYK5XapmDEYAVypJ6MhJvg0LuJL/s1600-h/DSC04307.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr5zWymr2cPwW0qbyHOpLQWdhGPdA16meOZH2l0EmWMqmnpOuiAeir_lhViUYRGc7CO5L3GE6zVNmARFCVgs7zoA8MT9ibTM__udxYUGuE_3j3hvppSwYK5XapmDEYAVypJ6MhJvg0LuJL/s320/DSC04307.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436989162617426210" /></a><br />The road was covered with debris on both sides. It appears that when someone needs to dispose of something, they just take it to the side of the road and dump it. At one of the restaurant, we watched an attendant throw a pile of dirty napkins on the ground in front of his restaurant. All of this debris makes a mess of the highways in the poorer areas, but this behavior seems so culturally accepted that it would be difficult to change.<br /><br />We came to an American-style gas station that had two female attendants dressed in red (not something we had seen before). It turns out the owner (pictured here with one of the attendants) is from Vancouver. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdayTUB6KItml3Z-ToazvhPnYz_Ylfo-6wRy6nixxw0a_KTe18KKb3u-khpml2T2sgXJsljzNmCm64gaAPDCjcsbDBjuA0BBBuJN594fVw6KgKeovHl_GPTqGjqcQypMIA0rZuPfSxaUAH/s1600-h/DSC04330.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdayTUB6KItml3Z-ToazvhPnYz_Ylfo-6wRy6nixxw0a_KTe18KKb3u-khpml2T2sgXJsljzNmCm64gaAPDCjcsbDBjuA0BBBuJN594fVw6KgKeovHl_GPTqGjqcQypMIA0rZuPfSxaUAH/s320/DSC04330.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436989274706028130" /></a><br />He married a Peruvian girl and is building gas stations for his father-in-law. He told us living in Peru is fun and that a beautiful beach is only 20 minutes away – although he does miss Vancouver.<br /><br />We spent the night in Chiclayo, Peru and tried to sleep, but there was wedding taking place despite the pouring rain, both of which reverberated until 2:00 a.m. Even so, we arose early and were on the road by 7:00 a.m., having put on our soggy clothes from the day before. We made our way through the city’s flooded roads:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO2wotFB07LQ9a8Yh3R0t6kpD63RKNF7oaN7GcSbVKhnNPpe2yQuvMbQ9b3h-VZ0x9-HLOMFYW-nPI19WMvqTS5xJweIYpHyyVO6rK9FSWK57SwbCtgWrUnX6Sbxg2AT1L6IOzOkAWUwfL/s1600-h/P2070653.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO2wotFB07LQ9a8Yh3R0t6kpD63RKNF7oaN7GcSbVKhnNPpe2yQuvMbQ9b3h-VZ0x9-HLOMFYW-nPI19WMvqTS5xJweIYpHyyVO6rK9FSWK57SwbCtgWrUnX6Sbxg2AT1L6IOzOkAWUwfL/s320/P2070653.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436989396553919090" /></a><br />We headed south on the PanAmerican Highway, which runs between the Pacific coast and the mountain range for the entire length of Peru and into Chile. Dunes rise 300-400 feet above the road in some spots; where possible, they elevate the road to prevent the accumulation of sand. In parts of this desert, it only rains every 15 or 20 years. All around us is barren desert, pockmarked with rocky summits emerging from the sand dunes. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUhNiW98Lj-6-WrDHAdy6y3LLu7_rcxcvRftrilq9wbsRpm334ko42R8VGV6Nt3MUk-hj2oEtgiumD4NYgRWHL3-NzVP20IeuSPtV22lJNvGCXJyouGTChOSPoPf8ZSXdpgkMSC-N9oTLg/s1600-h/P2070659.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUhNiW98Lj-6-WrDHAdy6y3LLu7_rcxcvRftrilq9wbsRpm334ko42R8VGV6Nt3MUk-hj2oEtgiumD4NYgRWHL3-NzVP20IeuSPtV22lJNvGCXJyouGTChOSPoPf8ZSXdpgkMSC-N9oTLg/s320/P2070659.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436989527121676418" /></a><br />The road was covered in brown water that atomized into a spray with the passing buses and trucks – we breathed it in, and I could feel it on my lips. I thought about the possible organic content of this spray – pig snot, donkey dung, road kill puree, spit – you get the picture. I could feel a tickle in my throat as my imagination ran wild.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8jq8CmdEY9ejvCYR-Jni257Y6Y0jZsEhEP3qobGRXT_mkC99t_1RifLLLrOJQ2R_VovphnMb-dJDDF4G4JlcU3cZyFXqgB86yo3W_Rjtp1eVd4EUsz7lv64jKQrzpeQQEchQGsHi1qCqx/s1600-h/P2070662.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8jq8CmdEY9ejvCYR-Jni257Y6Y0jZsEhEP3qobGRXT_mkC99t_1RifLLLrOJQ2R_VovphnMb-dJDDF4G4JlcU3cZyFXqgB86yo3W_Rjtp1eVd4EUsz7lv64jKQrzpeQQEchQGsHi1qCqx/s320/P2070662.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436989635867868466" /></a><br />The four of us have managed to stay healthy during the first five weeks of our trip (and the others have even been eating salads – a definite no-no). The next couple of days will tell if the road spray was as bad as I imagined (I’m fearing Montezuma’s revenge or worse).<br /><br />We passed a breakfast meeting with a group of “investment bankers” polishing off a dog in the middle of a village: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTmtVm_g6pJoiQNdsIHK2qYyPd5qADHQ7DDStjOudx4_TSdQ-WF0x1psFafzqZ8SSjR7bA1xeknLtAg4rfPVBiKwxhlJjmez3AtWnes5LlJSTSGShvfnz7o3WDYK-30RbQkY2Uaa-0RpmG/s1600-h/P2070661.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTmtVm_g6pJoiQNdsIHK2qYyPd5qADHQ7DDStjOudx4_TSdQ-WF0x1psFafzqZ8SSjR7bA1xeknLtAg4rfPVBiKwxhlJjmez3AtWnes5LlJSTSGShvfnz7o3WDYK-30RbQkY2Uaa-0RpmG/s320/P2070661.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436989749946164258" /></a><br />In Peru it’s a dog, but in Cleveland it would be an automobile parts supplier.<br /><br />What truly interests me about this is why the village would allow vultures to gather in the middle of town and assume the role of sanitation worker. But this lackadaisical attitude about hygiene, cleanliness and littering has been a recurring theme in Peru. The roads are littered with trash in dump truck-size quantities – this is littering on a grand scale!<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjppEZPtyurUTX5QXGrf-DPJBwGnKiA_i5S0_zJTjal-FWUBpUVX9yj_mNgEA2Lm-LYrZ4knkFiWUa9MuO8NIV7HQDJNyRPzMHzC642EcoZOP5J6tgortKiQM7-_wSJxK5neV4yRtF-kYr8/s1600-h/P2070657.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjppEZPtyurUTX5QXGrf-DPJBwGnKiA_i5S0_zJTjal-FWUBpUVX9yj_mNgEA2Lm-LYrZ4knkFiWUa9MuO8NIV7HQDJNyRPzMHzC642EcoZOP5J6tgortKiQM7-_wSJxK5neV4yRtF-kYr8/s320/P2070657.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436989871169978434" /></a><br />As we continued south just a few miles inland from the Pacific, we came across a number of rough and ramshackle little towns. The rain finally stopped, and we pulled over for a snack.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY7qi2XJqewW4DllKF9cPdFEdaDEc7A-bnKFe1t12Ajak0icHgQkRWOarcanuHdh6j66BEiFNodOhZZf0MEfFRmMFeFYWxza1f4xo5SmqLPRilOLslZssgFuOEpJvZ8lMP1Rl8loibSVMj/s1600-h/DSC04342.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY7qi2XJqewW4DllKF9cPdFEdaDEc7A-bnKFe1t12Ajak0icHgQkRWOarcanuHdh6j66BEiFNodOhZZf0MEfFRmMFeFYWxza1f4xo5SmqLPRilOLslZssgFuOEpJvZ8lMP1Rl8loibSVMj/s320/DSC04342.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436989987841333826" /></a><br />Here are three guards standing watch over a children’s park—they carried billy clubs, but I’m not sure if they were for enforcing the “children only” rule, keeping the children in line, or protecting the children from some unseen threat.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidWHgCcz04TKlhs70U9Jo2eCX6-4g0NF2JVccKCy7pH-svgBN_1iAFSuqwGrQudKtXDlrnNqldBmxxCPk5AULxlXLHyG1dRDS7FeDPvsJxWmDeruZDp65ahbTC6d4Gd1QpUNxFqEY3FXGZ/s1600-h/DSC04338.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidWHgCcz04TKlhs70U9Jo2eCX6-4g0NF2JVccKCy7pH-svgBN_1iAFSuqwGrQudKtXDlrnNqldBmxxCPk5AULxlXLHyG1dRDS7FeDPvsJxWmDeruZDp65ahbTC6d4Gd1QpUNxFqEY3FXGZ/s320/DSC04338.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436990115393571186" /></a><br />There are some beautiful beaches extending all along the length of the Pacific coast of Peru, but they are not widely used. But this town is trying to save its beach with a seawall – something that won’t work in the long run.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN53BzHr1dGZYqq3I6gTW-SSJPeunzEYbHHMeji-D9exfKFGhyWLSrd6FZZo2IGMMSXLMnxOHOXt8TT8bu5fs1ZGtDFkQyx7iRmmbOuJ_rYrbtdI9b_qU6K1r_jVk7eUcJ2wAIdHLCOtkE/s1600-h/DSC04337.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN53BzHr1dGZYqq3I6gTW-SSJPeunzEYbHHMeji-D9exfKFGhyWLSrd6FZZo2IGMMSXLMnxOHOXt8TT8bu5fs1ZGtDFkQyx7iRmmbOuJ_rYrbtdI9b_qU6K1r_jVk7eUcJ2wAIdHLCOtkE/s320/DSC04337.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436990230413219154" /></a><br />Vince and I bought some Red Bull in an attempt to diminish the longing for an afternoon nap. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDpy0jLWeNKHNjNneSCsx7hM86weAVV6xxfZ56MTy_mj45MELYV2b_MceFUgFlZEztJcAwkK3WV5Sw7f_1sdvLvVeTrL0Z7fOOwfIqBhDLj-6PANb6enxOx-ECyIO6Ch4SKhVgKG34jvQq/s1600-h/DSC04346.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDpy0jLWeNKHNjNneSCsx7hM86weAVV6xxfZ56MTy_mj45MELYV2b_MceFUgFlZEztJcAwkK3WV5Sw7f_1sdvLvVeTrL0Z7fOOwfIqBhDLj-6PANb6enxOx-ECyIO6Ch4SKhVgKG34jvQq/s320/DSC04346.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436990627843450162" /></a><br />This stuff actually works – it keeps you awake without the unpleasantness of too much coffee. Even if you drink it in the afternoon, you can still fall asleep by 10:00 p.m.<br /><br />We shared a can of tuna fish and crackers and gave the leftovers to a dog that looked much like our Border Collie, Chase, the Whiskey Island goose chaser:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdZQEJPigEkJd6CuIW_aNm7-7gfhwN5BFNWDiUYVUXn-5SykoqijGphqk2Ch2R9GWGW4x2a9mcBIzXpunpKX_ZpSb2mtZA2kOYT3nhYBtIcPujYigC6iDef1oIwo9JIM4y4xmQAlwPLemi/s1600-h/DSC04349.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdZQEJPigEkJd6CuIW_aNm7-7gfhwN5BFNWDiUYVUXn-5SykoqijGphqk2Ch2R9GWGW4x2a9mcBIzXpunpKX_ZpSb2mtZA2kOYT3nhYBtIcPujYigC6iDef1oIwo9JIM4y4xmQAlwPLemi/s320/DSC04349.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436990776442246178" /></a><br />The trip is nearly half over, and I still haven’t gotten my POV video camera working correctly and my bike is looking dirty and uncared for.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji3b1hf6divaxHHIR7ExwMOZfSG8vHY4q2HIjgibAJWCltIWzm9AXyr6Jg3prO4tTdAjbVIqCVU6Oi31P6LoWD4-4xDAH6237f0SD6QEcxr8vIZNSqiIKhNsL0sPenW4KACr81ZEo_AKC8/s1600-h/DSC04351.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji3b1hf6divaxHHIR7ExwMOZfSG8vHY4q2HIjgibAJWCltIWzm9AXyr6Jg3prO4tTdAjbVIqCVU6Oi31P6LoWD4-4xDAH6237f0SD6QEcxr8vIZNSqiIKhNsL0sPenW4KACr81ZEo_AKC8/s320/DSC04351.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436990893116340338" /></a><br />In stark contrast to the dunes and the desert, there were patches of irrigated farmland that were lush and fertile:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj0IgdB7Z-pBCIS9AgKPE7xdOWByj0lsScOcANGHv6kePLyAzAnYIp5SVsA0wmsX61ALMlefFa70AoaRYv8_M-yQ_cHF7T5r5T6S-GdxhDD8f3P-94lmmNekbog65UO4QJUIr2wohfgyu4/s1600-h/DSC04375.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj0IgdB7Z-pBCIS9AgKPE7xdOWByj0lsScOcANGHv6kePLyAzAnYIp5SVsA0wmsX61ALMlefFa70AoaRYv8_M-yQ_cHF7T5r5T6S-GdxhDD8f3P-94lmmNekbog65UO4QJUIr2wohfgyu4/s320/DSC04375.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436991022966094178" /></a><br />This is possible because of the overabundance of water from the Peruvian mountains. The water is guided by simple mechanical gates such as this one:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPUD2g80xP9e4OvEejmDRTMa0LO4XpTZAVhxyFR1XiqyPsa3lir3klZXfhie1Wdhyhbvk7xzWo_cKYwmSHC5SznVzEzstAogsFv9EPbtysLk6N56fqbLoEX-tbApbumfDRKnOdZJt3D56G/s1600-h/DSC04379.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPUD2g80xP9e4OvEejmDRTMa0LO4XpTZAVhxyFR1XiqyPsa3lir3klZXfhie1Wdhyhbvk7xzWo_cKYwmSHC5SznVzEzstAogsFv9EPbtysLk6N56fqbLoEX-tbApbumfDRKnOdZJt3D56G/s320/DSC04379.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436991288791461122" /></a><br />The Mayans were masters at irrigation but Peru has only scratched the surface, as they use only 1% of their renewable water resources per year for industrial, agricultural and domestic use. This raises the question of whether Peru has enough of a transportation infrastructure to allow them to compete on a worldwide scale.<br /><br />As we continued through the desert, which was pockmarked by fertile irrigated areas, we were surprised to see a significant asparagus farm. There were also substantial chicken farms with large sheds – each perhaps 75 yards long. It would seem to me that the chicken feed would need to be imported and that the chickens would have to be exported.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBbBP4H_TNDJORMF3JvhVRCDqiKcNgCTl7zi3DP1x9r0G-Av-5E6cu-6cDjNQTeyBqB9hHLuqBKlsMCaM7iNR7iCSaD_7pFNAXKjkt8zZtR9h5JLms207cK-VcWzviJhlV-dQdWCq1v9bN/s1600-h/DSC04499.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBbBP4H_TNDJORMF3JvhVRCDqiKcNgCTl7zi3DP1x9r0G-Av-5E6cu-6cDjNQTeyBqB9hHLuqBKlsMCaM7iNR7iCSaD_7pFNAXKjkt8zZtR9h5JLms207cK-VcWzviJhlV-dQdWCq1v9bN/s320/DSC04499.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437105737878465842" /></a><br />It was disappointing to see sugar cane fields and trucks hauling cane– it would seem to me that there would be a better cash crop for this luscious irrigated soil.<br /><br />We attempted to leave the road and head up into the mountains . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivY0lb2iizLt2rzyLS7xrxn7wyjISgm4cfn2OCZWVtfatCotvVE5XuzD327PYC3RftLdWqoUSrFRM1vM8DS9ZAYa0VW3fXIYdzQSJN2UT-5l2Tl0hP66zpUEGcd8qg3iTMY3v1ynypGJ1D/s1600-h/DSC04382.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivY0lb2iizLt2rzyLS7xrxn7wyjISgm4cfn2OCZWVtfatCotvVE5XuzD327PYC3RftLdWqoUSrFRM1vM8DS9ZAYa0VW3fXIYdzQSJN2UT-5l2Tl0hP66zpUEGcd8qg3iTMY3v1ynypGJ1D/s320/DSC04382.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436991524770788226" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLao_hBTplg9m2d00kRRbxopuFtjA11CB7ryKHfIa2ZLRqWYEAzRnxHzUqy9tuHSjFCo7YDpKXAFcFnikvRvQxjcDVARWPUsOfM7Ojzg1RtlrLH0_jvLyBGkzkWfUD6s1lUdujCRWlg-Q7/s1600-h/DSC04404.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLao_hBTplg9m2d00kRRbxopuFtjA11CB7ryKHfIa2ZLRqWYEAzRnxHzUqy9tuHSjFCo7YDpKXAFcFnikvRvQxjcDVARWPUsOfM7Ojzg1RtlrLH0_jvLyBGkzkWfUD6s1lUdujCRWlg-Q7/s320/DSC04404.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436991451008166322" /></a><br />Through some lush irrigated countryside . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhggz1rMe4RULFWxW-VRXiVWcZD_PIdEZsrb3KMtSw6trOcSIOjmaLfvZqw6xH7NZoT2ET5C1-6ok3TPSzGKbGtoTVX1dqAlBB3xuuOm1yfpge69HURYZM2chFydqe1FfsNwlV173HxvzFq/s1600-h/DSC04388.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhggz1rMe4RULFWxW-VRXiVWcZD_PIdEZsrb3KMtSw6trOcSIOjmaLfvZqw6xH7NZoT2ET5C1-6ok3TPSzGKbGtoTVX1dqAlBB3xuuOm1yfpge69HURYZM2chFydqe1FfsNwlV173HxvzFq/s320/DSC04388.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436991653498148098" /></a><br />. . . but ultimately had to turn back because of the muddy treacherous road conditions. At one point while heading up the mountains, Roger and I both dumped our bikes . . . <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ36EPudr0P5cn3rQe7pvh1dSenJEhG_7Epp5H01aN56mGYJdCNM_3f6ER2hXXZlrMmUud8JNRbjGgXpHm0fkUMz1osvM75nYwkWAYiya0X3GQN_d007o6IdLpc_crxjrSvVizqCojwh5V/s1600-h/DSC04390.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ36EPudr0P5cn3rQe7pvh1dSenJEhG_7Epp5H01aN56mGYJdCNM_3f6ER2hXXZlrMmUud8JNRbjGgXpHm0fkUMz1osvM75nYwkWAYiya0X3GQN_d007o6IdLpc_crxjrSvVizqCojwh5V/s320/DSC04390.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436991783587344850" /></a><br />It was a two-hour diversion, but we saw some lovely countryside and had it not been for the unprecedented rain the night before, we would have made it. The unrelenting rain has even caused the closure of Machu Piccu. Next year, I’m sure Helge will include a heavier dose of mountain riding to replace these long stretches of riding in the barren desert.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-WPUJZXVLlX0zPIpVcHuOpsfnbz6pjemZ0sQMmMXCN2zIpI-BgJyB_7hEDGISSc31ZVjHvYTivbswVwjibxPagUOaWiCK3JzAOF1dnJRYWujfwOzMNw0y55Iu_zYA_O5q04sow3JW2Noj/s1600-h/DSC04394.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-WPUJZXVLlX0zPIpVcHuOpsfnbz6pjemZ0sQMmMXCN2zIpI-BgJyB_7hEDGISSc31ZVjHvYTivbswVwjibxPagUOaWiCK3JzAOF1dnJRYWujfwOzMNw0y55Iu_zYA_O5q04sow3JW2Noj/s320/DSC04394.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436991908407781202" /></a><br />We got back on the PanAmerican Highway . . .<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiVkkRMnZipl_iHs635YpcgSWGYXgGV93IY5fkTT-puWQwyirOghANbev4ChwmSR9A1bu2lGORphVs9iYqnzGLsJ7b9c_imI8JNliLb-ETPIqAUjmWfJjqPmQMkomD-IEVCs_7CdrJh476/s1600-h/DSC04424.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiVkkRMnZipl_iHs635YpcgSWGYXgGV93IY5fkTT-puWQwyirOghANbev4ChwmSR9A1bu2lGORphVs9iYqnzGLsJ7b9c_imI8JNliLb-ETPIqAUjmWfJjqPmQMkomD-IEVCs_7CdrJh476/s320/DSC04424.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436992149557873378" /></a><br />And stayed in a small hotel in Huarmey.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-4974310699977242402010-02-05T10:04:00.000-08:002010-02-05T10:18:41.612-08:00Day 29 – February 2<strong><em>Pasto, Colombia to Quito, Ecuador</em></strong><br /><br />We left Pasto still a little bit upset about missing Cali and exhausted from driving 360 miles and endlessly reconnoitering locations for next year’s trip. Helge is working us like draft animals – gone is the afternoon siesta. <br /><br />Today is an exciting day – we will cross into Ecuador and hope to spend the night in Quito, south of the equator. <br /><br />We headed out amid light rush hour traffic…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOYLz0l109URbNPOpTNvVxgVTLHfXbPD4ZIhhN16ZPy8svl1_7lcfPoSO6tNttpi2jkhT2CHKxuJ25FKhxehTlT3FQoWz953ykWqFftYdBCooDN20WrCpPpVewtnyn_J4DA6B0GKm-PPTn/s1600-h/DSC03874.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOYLz0l109URbNPOpTNvVxgVTLHfXbPD4ZIhhN16ZPy8svl1_7lcfPoSO6tNttpi2jkhT2CHKxuJ25FKhxehTlT3FQoWz953ykWqFftYdBCooDN20WrCpPpVewtnyn_J4DA6B0GKm-PPTn/s320/DSC03874.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434822300389762850" /></a><br />With clouds looming overhead.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFJHmmo0z-y3J9_Xq0zr3MoV7UPp53xk-2p-VNXFzLcuMG7XYRSLG2tb81soVRB5mo1m1X8FPOrTDqMA0wZyKnUoQrXyFHfgX38wQMaD8H4gdKvUe5HrX_pVQ2VVebc_KslvgM0cWuJ1qB/s1600-h/DSC03891.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFJHmmo0z-y3J9_Xq0zr3MoV7UPp53xk-2p-VNXFzLcuMG7XYRSLG2tb81soVRB5mo1m1X8FPOrTDqMA0wZyKnUoQrXyFHfgX38wQMaD8H4gdKvUe5HrX_pVQ2VVebc_KslvgM0cWuJ1qB/s320/DSC03891.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434822427461935666" /></a><br />I packed my rain gear, but did not end up needing it. We shared the Pan American highway with all manner of travelers: <br />Horse carts…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYTUBNGu107vs2Pl-4y-SRNZ7qEXhfEs3D1HUQD15zcLK1dM1bBxCrcX-HUmPpQ683nPeSgLMkF_5MQ_R3rtfYKNhI4TB7AeyevEiYxPwSA6MYQ-WVeVAb0iCGBweAh_L68ib61Vf84TXG/s1600-h/DSC03873.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYTUBNGu107vs2Pl-4y-SRNZ7qEXhfEs3D1HUQD15zcLK1dM1bBxCrcX-HUmPpQ683nPeSgLMkF_5MQ_R3rtfYKNhI4TB7AeyevEiYxPwSA6MYQ-WVeVAb0iCGBweAh_L68ib61Vf84TXG/s320/DSC03873.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434822572305873986" /></a><br />Colorful private buses…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-pvQa-bgmoX3YAifd4j4l7bp7oRKzhl7rTtqYWVAIhQBiI9PAGlaE_EYmeWpy-7_Iu3KyxcIX2UnRuP9nQ1h93C4SBeKuH7fKyIyhm0EYTZGPYn_SRN8D_o3cmI92br7ILYKZEgLaqPBQ/s1600-h/DSC03885.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-pvQa-bgmoX3YAifd4j4l7bp7oRKzhl7rTtqYWVAIhQBiI9PAGlaE_EYmeWpy-7_Iu3KyxcIX2UnRuP9nQ1h93C4SBeKuH7fKyIyhm0EYTZGPYn_SRN8D_o3cmI92br7ILYKZEgLaqPBQ/s320/DSC03885.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434822683689516690" /></a><br />And people hauling hay.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRAgIcwvi4BFniFNZ4Jsh0RUNRpmZZNBcFJa4ikvAPufi7L01Pw68qNg6cf0lZT37LWsQZYLO2-jcLAgKyfIaloO3SUE9drKCuqMXYED6O5eafU8AfPjGqbtOwL0Tbr8Ysn8cE_MZUzD_a/s1600-h/DSC03903.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRAgIcwvi4BFniFNZ4Jsh0RUNRpmZZNBcFJa4ikvAPufi7L01Pw68qNg6cf0lZT37LWsQZYLO2-jcLAgKyfIaloO3SUE9drKCuqMXYED6O5eafU8AfPjGqbtOwL0Tbr8Ysn8cE_MZUzD_a/s320/DSC03903.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434822785144690898" /></a><br />The road to the border had many overhangs…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt70d7PlkC0xO9ILVV_mYjiuCw_uRVXZK6813DAbx3K-hf-2xnliL6htNIKemV6Qhyi_HYSlfPylrWjNmBAzm4ICbf6PH3fu-6v5KV17Sh5dbSXlTk7llXhmh_YYpwsv485I7NRqR3y2Q3/s1600-h/DSC03912.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt70d7PlkC0xO9ILVV_mYjiuCw_uRVXZK6813DAbx3K-hf-2xnliL6htNIKemV6Qhyi_HYSlfPylrWjNmBAzm4ICbf6PH3fu-6v5KV17Sh5dbSXlTk7llXhmh_YYpwsv485I7NRqR3y2Q3/s320/DSC03912.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434822896188378338" /></a><br />And many curves…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJIVrNvStidU8xKrdUvab8oKJM6mxNOAstBXlWs_lUx73lv5Sk1lQglLlsqZgMaYcpT6jmS5drcUPVGi0dkLihgDpqirUvEGTRi4xtkbaJaCUMTp5hTpkda1GH8Al4Gliu8o5Fdlb0fK37/s1600-h/DSC03892.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJIVrNvStidU8xKrdUvab8oKJM6mxNOAstBXlWs_lUx73lv5Sk1lQglLlsqZgMaYcpT6jmS5drcUPVGi0dkLihgDpqirUvEGTRi4xtkbaJaCUMTp5hTpkda1GH8Al4Gliu8o5Fdlb0fK37/s320/DSC03892.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434823012851175538" /></a><br />Beautifully carved into steep cliffs.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKASibI_qg3XD-dHw6OJglnuheT5wmMBoEpkFoLiP9SDQVY7wtEC7fIAVw4LuscIWz9hDgyd0nb_jg8PCGQ1jd9KAM0G5syvsqJ9odLEogQmq-TsMrrDh0Tk9dIu6kAF5_WbSt-Ff1U9Kt/s1600-h/DSC03902.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKASibI_qg3XD-dHw6OJglnuheT5wmMBoEpkFoLiP9SDQVY7wtEC7fIAVw4LuscIWz9hDgyd0nb_jg8PCGQ1jd9KAM0G5syvsqJ9odLEogQmq-TsMrrDh0Tk9dIu6kAF5_WbSt-Ff1U9Kt/s320/DSC03902.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434823120685473602" /></a><br />We passed through little villages.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFO1ZY0xOS36yNM2tHAY9DNT2__YF6IcZsLIcKn5z8XJVUEJgGRTBdTbT2eFX81OAPfbkpQ8FLagScoNBJnsGHSTfdHFJJPHLQqMgjh8AbSdB0DJeGzQffc5fGLgtU5B8o5gBLVyDfltoD/s1600-h/DSC03908.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFO1ZY0xOS36yNM2tHAY9DNT2__YF6IcZsLIcKn5z8XJVUEJgGRTBdTbT2eFX81OAPfbkpQ8FLagScoNBJnsGHSTfdHFJJPHLQqMgjh8AbSdB0DJeGzQffc5fGLgtU5B8o5gBLVyDfltoD/s320/DSC03908.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434823226534049666" /></a><br />Passing traffic on this curvy road was challenging and thrilling.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5DgG8yd3AuaaXNkdzSQQI80biOb3pnCx1Vd3Oc_fm4T4uJ2SwYwlQZl8HwAcrZQAK6HEyFHPiHSh16alHf-lPS5Bxo6zFJezochG-d4-14cqUS4f987MZdMwz6xnRXPXrv-u5Hi-9E2Q5/s1600-h/DSC03919.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5DgG8yd3AuaaXNkdzSQQI80biOb3pnCx1Vd3Oc_fm4T4uJ2SwYwlQZl8HwAcrZQAK6HEyFHPiHSh16alHf-lPS5Bxo6zFJezochG-d4-14cqUS4f987MZdMwz6xnRXPXrv-u5Hi-9E2Q5/s320/DSC03919.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434823329409632034" /></a><br />Just before the Ecuador border, Helge stopped to reconnoiter possible hotel alternatives for next year. At one spot, Helge determined that the security was just fine – there was a locked entryway for the bikes in front of each apartment and broken glass rimming the compound’s walls like concertina wire – but we resumed our journey when we realized the place was actually a bordello.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfKI8SIeMppbg3JUGZPXL0QKy7wUGesb6RyFSTbJpztHPg42Lm9d88uoPMEPHmpwtYEPoDyZbt22ZiG_J4GA_ihcpJYhOPPCokBfIGgFYB02z5Udtu8AD-L67oLeMNABgeEhOwexpYKiD9/s1600-h/DSC03929.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfKI8SIeMppbg3JUGZPXL0QKy7wUGesb6RyFSTbJpztHPg42Lm9d88uoPMEPHmpwtYEPoDyZbt22ZiG_J4GA_ihcpJYhOPPCokBfIGgFYB02z5Udtu8AD-L67oLeMNABgeEhOwexpYKiD9/s320/DSC03929.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434823444955829954" /></a><br />The Colombia-Ecuador border line was long but moved incredibly rapidly. It took less than an hour to cross the border – a new record for border crossing. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcvlM7m_s3m6dob2TRMPkb-rqihQwkdGObEKQJcpmYHPNSSCHwwwF3zSsYxX1tj5qGsT-2LDxj76q11eRk9lsMLFIuoxwinvTOINJK-KJaGfLlmS_n9xg2wB61RkzpsbfgOG8Z9vD3-lAr/s1600-h/DSC03956.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcvlM7m_s3m6dob2TRMPkb-rqihQwkdGObEKQJcpmYHPNSSCHwwwF3zSsYxX1tj5qGsT-2LDxj76q11eRk9lsMLFIuoxwinvTOINJK-KJaGfLlmS_n9xg2wB61RkzpsbfgOG8Z9vD3-lAr/s320/DSC03956.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434823547734989074" /></a><br />This is surprising because Colombia and Ecuador do not have diplomatic relations. Diplomatic relations were terminated in March 2008 when the Colombian Army attacked a group of FARC guerillas who had been using Ecuador as a sanctuary while attacking targets in Colombia. A Colombian told me that there have been over-flights by either Ecuador or Venezuela into Colombian airspace but that Álvaro Uribe, the president of Colombia, instructed his armed forces not to rise to the bait. The feeling is that Chavez will be out of power in a short time anyway, and it is not worth providing him a cause that may induce the electorate in Venezuela to remain longer.<br /><br />At the border there was a mix of people: a classic Indian in a baseball cap…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLIrdnraD5pNfacY5mnk1eJbUxyowqPynSUfhNhOFXliG0z91oYnZGAE0d30fpZseNvBmecvYTQ35k-uuLXENjQei1Gp9uFMKR-ekqEdl-9ntUTCLpzFPjEE98VDsq1tvNTINaeeDSkBxJ/s1600-h/DSC03970.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLIrdnraD5pNfacY5mnk1eJbUxyowqPynSUfhNhOFXliG0z91oYnZGAE0d30fpZseNvBmecvYTQ35k-uuLXENjQei1Gp9uFMKR-ekqEdl-9ntUTCLpzFPjEE98VDsq1tvNTINaeeDSkBxJ/s320/DSC03970.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434823668123844802" /></a><br />A German chap who had been on the road for a solid two years with his friend…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdYzk3yE-NVplqJv7yZn_2SPN79GqFbHmNMRSjZRf_OAIX2w0toAc1lWFZI6CbRwWX4-Sfb3-VKBPZHmtcRJwnyiCjBeiklC7Yx9O8ISr6fd2Bpf_krG-A3Y_ywcDzkYdjsU6kbTBXUZCm/s1600-h/DSC03986.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdYzk3yE-NVplqJv7yZn_2SPN79GqFbHmNMRSjZRf_OAIX2w0toAc1lWFZI6CbRwWX4-Sfb3-VKBPZHmtcRJwnyiCjBeiklC7Yx9O8ISr6fd2Bpf_krG-A3Y_ywcDzkYdjsU6kbTBXUZCm/s320/DSC03986.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434823769753347042" /></a><br />We saw a motorcycle seat with the image of a pinup—something that would probably sell well to the Harley crowd.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtYWQeq2mAD4UsnrF_Fd0ryxds8ZllkfoclIulsQzBdOHrlmVYz5qTXeyV6Z5fbnuX38srWyxyFolBk2P3SU1euVSytFNqu_wbIYW_4Pz2MBdPfj521ErHfdcY2ZcYGbzIPbx4IcL57xwH/s1600-h/DSC03974.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtYWQeq2mAD4UsnrF_Fd0ryxds8ZllkfoclIulsQzBdOHrlmVYz5qTXeyV6Z5fbnuX38srWyxyFolBk2P3SU1euVSytFNqu_wbIYW_4Pz2MBdPfj521ErHfdcY2ZcYGbzIPbx4IcL57xwH/s320/DSC03974.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434823876620389394" /></a><br />We arrived at the first village in Ecuador and found ourselves in the middle of a large procession of perhaps 500 to 1,000 people coming towards us and blocking the highway:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYa6GDviYH8buEOYS6mRmC4l4INnaJ8q_JaY5jpSmojWfcmBO-xcCq5f7rTypau63igktTTksO1KBcvgtSJ2r3YTHpVisjIYCkWs-nabK9OaP1itweKMW7luimJmdBhRDc3Co-0kelQe1l/s1600-h/DSC03992.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYa6GDviYH8buEOYS6mRmC4l4INnaJ8q_JaY5jpSmojWfcmBO-xcCq5f7rTypau63igktTTksO1KBcvgtSJ2r3YTHpVisjIYCkWs-nabK9OaP1itweKMW7luimJmdBhRDc3Co-0kelQe1l/s320/DSC03992.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434823996960079266" /></a><br />Helge, in his classic adventure motorcycling style, led us into the crowd with our motorcycles, which made some of the policemen angry. But after Helge turned on the charm, they were delighted to have us there.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijipUVt7LxodC8Ng9xropk9qRftRL8rjf0Zl7bSQvZavnYZ0li5RV5NOp1oRoS2cYZsxJ7VS8E5cey3sbmbnqch8lG2DVoSXK7vLjl2fwpZX1scrIZMmDF0QvTkCof0BlwCj3igJB4yELm/s1600-h/DSC03998.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijipUVt7LxodC8Ng9xropk9qRftRL8rjf0Zl7bSQvZavnYZ0li5RV5NOp1oRoS2cYZsxJ7VS8E5cey3sbmbnqch8lG2DVoSXK7vLjl2fwpZX1scrIZMmDF0QvTkCof0BlwCj3igJB4yELm/s320/DSC03998.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434824208241192258" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3bwXHncluBZc8FxfYzjgM8IGsOH9WwE9vbwajNZGtz0pEaGXqAHkk2nRaq9uujLxER5vwsRyloF5wqOPJjwvHsu_lbo-jmHLySucW647IzUBFi44zpJzz9GshmTAphO7j6CGxRBxxrZZG/s1600-h/DSC04000.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3bwXHncluBZc8FxfYzjgM8IGsOH9WwE9vbwajNZGtz0pEaGXqAHkk2nRaq9uujLxER5vwsRyloF5wqOPJjwvHsu_lbo-jmHLySucW647IzUBFi44zpJzz9GshmTAphO7j6CGxRBxxrZZG/s320/DSC04000.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434824166454221794" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKIaey0ClGrrds8i-1oJXAk8mrAPgDXDjLTGiy-8OczhF-w4ph846RiW8O93zs7grMxHQ-cxySCHHYRE4dg2eUezrvOCQ-hwrwCA5LnmbFIWLF8DoM_g4I7v0cpzRJlkiUsh7PYxscqRJk/s1600-h/DSC04001.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKIaey0ClGrrds8i-1oJXAk8mrAPgDXDjLTGiy-8OczhF-w4ph846RiW8O93zs7grMxHQ-cxySCHHYRE4dg2eUezrvOCQ-hwrwCA5LnmbFIWLF8DoM_g4I7v0cpzRJlkiUsh7PYxscqRJk/s320/DSC04001.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434824123536416658" /></a><br />They were carrying a baby Jesus in the arms of a large figure with $5 bills pasted to it. It was a classic festival type thing attended by throngs of young people – clearly a major social event.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXhE082Ca9BZBZSP5nlsNIiMh6VMZovksZjad3WxDGyxUMfH-DVGPEwPF7GoOgcX7nAGFnWiN9PegR9LI-l-QWOh8HYsTEZYMcPAWQd_DSOa3XbVGwH4CJZV0Z0hwMKZ-EUAn613DeKukU/s1600-h/DSC03995.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXhE082Ca9BZBZSP5nlsNIiMh6VMZovksZjad3WxDGyxUMfH-DVGPEwPF7GoOgcX7nAGFnWiN9PegR9LI-l-QWOh8HYsTEZYMcPAWQd_DSOa3XbVGwH4CJZV0Z0hwMKZ-EUAn613DeKukU/s320/DSC03995.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434824335476100418" /></a><br />We then came upon a disquieting situation –a large number of students in their green school uniforms…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbsLnVjSb7TQrSVlDJ_yqNohcRDhWDq0ncHx87nWDZbslJtfXx_pRa2iygHdNzpVGBfFxL6yuP4QI5Io0BW_-Qifj8xSBkYEz73fvOzKNFkfHPrSiy-QPvGGXSvBAB2guroXLHsC8nh5Om/s1600-h/DSC04007.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbsLnVjSb7TQrSVlDJ_yqNohcRDhWDq0ncHx87nWDZbslJtfXx_pRa2iygHdNzpVGBfFxL6yuP4QI5Io0BW_-Qifj8xSBkYEz73fvOzKNFkfHPrSiy-QPvGGXSvBAB2guroXLHsC8nh5Om/s320/DSC04007.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434824434376607170" /></a><br />were throwing stones in some sort of protest at cars that were driving up and down the hill. We waved at them and smiled and did not have any trouble.<br /><br />The remainder of the ride to Quito was absolutely extraordinary. At one point, we reached an altitude of over 10,000 feet on curvy roads carved into the mountains. I was not able to do justice to the breathtaking vistas with my camera.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6OcpgGFKOdFWYRHCx1NH-thfXAdcxmUsDRdLrQWOwmdvTJl-MuknyS0d-8c_ybva5I-iJJrk9MkBaAtNbCPoihwhaql1SK_Xtx7yULrhaCBk0fwj85Xu2qiHCt_pVVsyv3NkggZdG3nsS/s1600-h/DSC04015.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6OcpgGFKOdFWYRHCx1NH-thfXAdcxmUsDRdLrQWOwmdvTJl-MuknyS0d-8c_ybva5I-iJJrk9MkBaAtNbCPoihwhaql1SK_Xtx7yULrhaCBk0fwj85Xu2qiHCt_pVVsyv3NkggZdG3nsS/s320/DSC04015.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434824643173122226" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmAUXGamLSMY3zl7PXUFEkUBQw51Oxv0xD_aCQlIaHwtrJIn_4OfsYCbcAqIXRtzEByptdFlGtWlTjXoc3e-Oi9vt8suv_FyGrh8K3wbkJaERVkSBg0gYOEBBIICfUJla4peKtOumUAroi/s1600-h/DSC04017.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmAUXGamLSMY3zl7PXUFEkUBQw51Oxv0xD_aCQlIaHwtrJIn_4OfsYCbcAqIXRtzEByptdFlGtWlTjXoc3e-Oi9vt8suv_FyGrh8K3wbkJaERVkSBg0gYOEBBIICfUJla4peKtOumUAroi/s320/DSC04017.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434824595223858754" /></a><br />Powerful sheer cliffs falling almost vertically onto the road:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGraDm6cUEfNEvvMBlatQeZE2VOxBdSHFo4asXdNgrkbxKwkGK3cyosVxUlaJAoH91lvqPGiVqpjlmMdDY7C7yYpitzmXNoLDwODDMirJqkNdM-HDoWYWQiE7rgNh0s40tqzCCsXpIEDfr/s1600-h/DSC04020.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGraDm6cUEfNEvvMBlatQeZE2VOxBdSHFo4asXdNgrkbxKwkGK3cyosVxUlaJAoH91lvqPGiVqpjlmMdDY7C7yYpitzmXNoLDwODDMirJqkNdM-HDoWYWQiE7rgNh0s40tqzCCsXpIEDfr/s320/DSC04020.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434824552537794066" /></a><br />Vincent gets an oil leak:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTO-nTsU57yviKPwOtsJH9kurMRRkCL8MJ4Z4PWGxdLbhA-mdLYftEil4PQZrqkDFNmChLMngEJ4MNzmXNQ30d5DtoQVfPm1EcuvUHVOsXZakjMHKZA6gGUWcjaAmoxTb9SEJqYq1U81m/s1600-h/DSC04037.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTO-nTsU57yviKPwOtsJH9kurMRRkCL8MJ4Z4PWGxdLbhA-mdLYftEil4PQZrqkDFNmChLMngEJ4MNzmXNQ30d5DtoQVfPm1EcuvUHVOsXZakjMHKZA6gGUWcjaAmoxTb9SEJqYq1U81m/s320/DSC04037.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434825250021145858" /></a><br />This is an incredibly complicated motorcycle—it has anti-lock brakes, an electronically adjustable suspension, traction control (if the back tire is slipping, power to the rear wheel is automatically reduced), and an electronic tire pressure monitoring system. With all this it’s a wonder that all he had was an oil leak.<br /><br />We cross the equator as we approach Quito—here is the GPS showing N 2.8 minutes. I didn’t notice when it switched to South at the exact point of crossing the equator. Ecuador’s elaborate crossing-the-equator-monument is located in the wrong place. I’m sure it was originally erected in its current location because some politician was sure that no one would know where the equator actually is— that’s not the case now that everyone has GPS.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnU5AvWyYJ2yo2_OQqHtQefN2oPXkjmpp5Vf9uQ9Imi8Sy5WaqmP6uzBLmU5z6jMWkBbuQGzQeAmS2y4P183nGw-m9wrchrjidrrfcZkwXnJ23ILwY2z5JEKGI4_FYwyZL_BqqO8Fr1llu/s1600-h/DSC04038.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnU5AvWyYJ2yo2_OQqHtQefN2oPXkjmpp5Vf9uQ9Imi8Sy5WaqmP6uzBLmU5z6jMWkBbuQGzQeAmS2y4P183nGw-m9wrchrjidrrfcZkwXnJ23ILwY2z5JEKGI4_FYwyZL_BqqO8Fr1llu/s320/DSC04038.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434825395085447586" /></a><br />I will spend most of the first day in Quito catching up on some work. On our second day, we will do some sightseeing and go to a fancy place for dinner.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-46207795938962138262010-02-04T05:34:00.000-08:002010-02-04T06:05:14.841-08:00Day 23-28 – January 27-February 1<strong><em>Panama City, Panama to Bogota, Colombia to Pasto, Colombia</em></strong><br /><br />Most of this time was not devoted to riding motorcycles but rather to shipping the bikes from Panama City to Bogota. While we waited for the bikes to arrive, we took the opportunity to tour the cities. <br /><br />Panama City is a large cosmopolitan city…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEissYdgwSJTpe7s8AdO14X50oeCbH8dGfsa9pn7vUVPQ4JFreb8pTFfKVih76ysddbp9nnJx40add71E_SG2ZOWw2OS-GV1yEhnHrH-FRGH8PG8KMTBgRDZy1OeCdYCv81T828t-yO7Wy1E/s1600-h/P1270549.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEissYdgwSJTpe7s8AdO14X50oeCbH8dGfsa9pn7vUVPQ4JFreb8pTFfKVih76ysddbp9nnJx40add71E_SG2ZOWw2OS-GV1yEhnHrH-FRGH8PG8KMTBgRDZy1OeCdYCv81T828t-yO7Wy1E/s320/P1270549.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434381603432185426" /></a><br />With large numbers of high rise apartments…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRoy9bsmKSEMK6S8c70H4okSLe-pHl6gFFNAkzuGbsGQCVMaFB8JJx7a5NEjTBvHnNifeSPkMYE5ygVWqOhzokHZDYBMba4SE6boObYaKJcuEab-40MWR-yVksPKz2xmF4HAVD-G6ekcqq/s1600-h/P1270551.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRoy9bsmKSEMK6S8c70H4okSLe-pHl6gFFNAkzuGbsGQCVMaFB8JJx7a5NEjTBvHnNifeSPkMYE5ygVWqOhzokHZDYBMba4SE6boObYaKJcuEab-40MWR-yVksPKz2xmF4HAVD-G6ekcqq/s320/P1270551.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434381721755959202" /></a><br />And more on the rise in other parts of the city.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVdSNG3MIwCDHZX5i3yGCvNNeZve0-eeuJbx2Y3qqZXL8yrBuCWWi3E2sMYYAN6HHUWuIiQAzCa3-pAFekBXh7pTBauExgc6SHratOhD3GMU5tipxrdBx1d6OFN6fMI-u51SsASi_-w12M/s1600-h/P1270555.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVdSNG3MIwCDHZX5i3yGCvNNeZve0-eeuJbx2Y3qqZXL8yrBuCWWi3E2sMYYAN6HHUWuIiQAzCa3-pAFekBXh7pTBauExgc6SHratOhD3GMU5tipxrdBx1d6OFN6fMI-u51SsASi_-w12M/s320/P1270555.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434381849262253570" /></a><br />The city itself has a population of 1 million (all of Panama is 3 million). At one traffic light, I counted nine tower cranes and would guess that the whole city contained twenty to thirty cranes.<br /><br />Panama City has also felt the financial crunch and condo sales are down, but building activity has been spurred by the flight of the rich from unstable political areas in Central and South America. Second only to Miami, Panama is a good refuge for rich Central and South American families seeking security and stability.<br /><br />Another growth impetus in Panama is its low labor cost - typical labor is only $2.00/hour. <br /><br />Roger and I visited the Panama Canal and were impressed with its scale and the quality of the museum. There are only 3 lock systems, but each has two lanes. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjefAzNlN0tULP4Do4UUpM0-Wpw_WARC6yP0HcuzrhsK8ApA0X9RBW6dormTZqG9urlLJ0oeEfMcu89Fjc59r-INXTt6IvnPzrTNIO5eS7nMdaLuKqtRaY6ZjmaRXvti14neOef3uTak9OB/s1600-h/DSC03595.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjefAzNlN0tULP4Do4UUpM0-Wpw_WARC6yP0HcuzrhsK8ApA0X9RBW6dormTZqG9urlLJ0oeEfMcu89Fjc59r-INXTt6IvnPzrTNIO5eS7nMdaLuKqtRaY6ZjmaRXvti14neOef3uTak9OB/s320/DSC03595.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434382097942837698" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASpnEIKsSIEZ37IyuJu6v50I_uJQhzSMBhDSNubMBJyjimarTf25pZmlqXQB5aU4xHJaEDcnPx4DmTMRJgELcSrwmkZbH3awtBwAe3NKWdkPH4B_ZpINNMQowC5o_hVcST5a1ZhRiOj1v/s1600-h/DSC03600.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASpnEIKsSIEZ37IyuJu6v50I_uJQhzSMBhDSNubMBJyjimarTf25pZmlqXQB5aU4xHJaEDcnPx4DmTMRJgELcSrwmkZbH3awtBwAe3NKWdkPH4B_ZpINNMQowC5o_hVcST5a1ZhRiOj1v/s320/DSC03600.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434382045829093794" /></a><br />Fourteen kilometers of the canal is through a central lake, pictured above. It takes eight hours for a ship to traverse the canal. The cost per trip for the largest ships is $240,000. They are widening the canal and building two new lock systems which will enable a ship with twice the payload to traverse the canal. The current limit is a ship carrying 4,000 containers – the new locks will accommodate ships carrying 10,000 containers.<br /><br />The GDP purchasing power parity (PPP) here is approximately $1,600 versus Mexico’s approximately $5,000. With the wealth evident in Panama City, this implies a large disparity in distribution across the population. <br /><br />We spent the rest of the day as a group at the airport assisting with the crating of our bikes for the flight to Bogota, Colombia. The pallets were made from scrap pallets and lumber…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_IFfEqw7-gXzszjef3eIVr7P2IYZorZtUxBEm6Yjbx_xyQkuxSnx8n2aAtFIl64TBrSegHprSIFuS8PtvWdTu-1k22AZyvwk9cQ82xJTpcYwDNsT-dnwlQgTDINK0OLQxIDCPo2nZtybL/s1600-h/P1270567.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_IFfEqw7-gXzszjef3eIVr7P2IYZorZtUxBEm6Yjbx_xyQkuxSnx8n2aAtFIl64TBrSegHprSIFuS8PtvWdTu-1k22AZyvwk9cQ82xJTpcYwDNsT-dnwlQgTDINK0OLQxIDCPo2nZtybL/s320/P1270567.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434382235650407938" /></a><br />And scrap cardboard…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMr9AMI8pyIuKtuVepj96DXjMVSa4U4pEVxkli45TnMcyzgVE6NIGzrDYj0ABm5r8mLGKuR90N90ksWbBq1_3iGb2FJv2zg0p-0USDF4PnLChA_74vsNhk_X0fIh3ohwoAMoa3dzWsS6ht/s1600-h/P1270570.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMr9AMI8pyIuKtuVepj96DXjMVSa4U4pEVxkli45TnMcyzgVE6NIGzrDYj0ABm5r8mLGKuR90N90ksWbBq1_3iGb2FJv2zg0p-0USDF4PnLChA_74vsNhk_X0fIh3ohwoAMoa3dzWsS6ht/s320/P1270570.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434382369205815266" /></a><br />And then the whole thing was wrapped in clingy plastic.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Pg3smVI-NtEhyc73rKSp3saABrYO5kgW__4dFr0pG73kljiCtZpAnJ8cPGHQHNlIRLSIWPAACuN7HpLQ8eRcBUZNr4fsEaa-_BRWk3nZ2GMMa79lQZ9dplBAWzXphPyiuCIgur9ymCYi/s1600-h/P1270573.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Pg3smVI-NtEhyc73rKSp3saABrYO5kgW__4dFr0pG73kljiCtZpAnJ8cPGHQHNlIRLSIWPAACuN7HpLQ8eRcBUZNr4fsEaa-_BRWk3nZ2GMMa79lQZ9dplBAWzXphPyiuCIgur9ymCYi/s320/P1270573.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434382498422260594" /></a><br />The process lasted until nearly 8:00 that night. <br /><br />The crating process was tedious and expensive (over $1,000 per bike) – but it beats two weeks worth of sea travel which would probably end up costing about the same. Helge has determined a better way to handle this for the group traveling next year. <br /><br />We caught our flight to Bogota:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbeoZAQ7jywQwPn_BXdTE0LRMkBwi47nBlGYQ-22gl3qCf419YC7GS8EcjbuSA5kpfKMGOGw7XWNvU9VIx1Goj-ZjmAx3JPmfbdB1Li3Lu0iVjhkz04-TrbRqlk4aUVEQNeOTxx3eiSYKp/s1600-h/529.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 247px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbeoZAQ7jywQwPn_BXdTE0LRMkBwi47nBlGYQ-22gl3qCf419YC7GS8EcjbuSA5kpfKMGOGw7XWNvU9VIx1Goj-ZjmAx3JPmfbdB1Li3Lu0iVjhkz04-TrbRqlk4aUVEQNeOTxx3eiSYKp/s320/529.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434383337660323682" /></a><br />The next day we met Luis Mojicas at the airport. Luis had not previously met Helge, but he is a motorcycle fanatic with whom Helge has frequently corresponded. We had dinner that evening with Luis at his house with his lovely wife, Anabella, and got their perspective on Bogota and Colombia. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40RO9ppI-O1WhZ_gy7aAPCZGnre4Lsed2mwNaf4wDU6M_jxt2OV6PJtL-VjMKlpr3K4r36-Vv_KUx8Z3L2tPBM8oVTR8YF27Hj1rEuWAue3H5vxL3MiUz4zCW4VUplR8tBK7Y7GcVcBWT/s1600-h/IMG_0456A.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 258px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40RO9ppI-O1WhZ_gy7aAPCZGnre4Lsed2mwNaf4wDU6M_jxt2OV6PJtL-VjMKlpr3K4r36-Vv_KUx8Z3L2tPBM8oVTR8YF27Hj1rEuWAue3H5vxL3MiUz4zCW4VUplR8tBK7Y7GcVcBWT/s320/IMG_0456A.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434383517191720098" /></a><br />They introduced us to some of their friends, and we talked at length about Colombia. Luis is a fundraiser for UNICEF and is currently extremely busy raising funds for the Haiti relief – we were grateful that he was able to spend time with us. <br /><br />Bogota is a city of contrasts. With a population of 7 million, it is the size of Chicago with beautiful neighborhoods encompassing about 20% of the city. We went to a shopping center near their house – it had all the fancy stores and was spotlessly clean and organized. But the specter of danger lingered there, despite the glittering of the storefronts. Security was prevalent– just outside of the shopping center, Vincent was taking pictures and was asked to stop by the security guard.<br /><br />Luis and Anabella’s friends were animated and very western in their thinking and mannerisms. While we were waiting for the motorcycles to arrive, we went on a tour of Bogota. There was a rather stark city square (unlike the warm inviting city squares we experienced in Central America) surrounded by city and federal government buildings.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCN3AkouzGEUo9uGC3r7AgiPdZZ3F4Dq2cx0pr9ldj7BXH10CA9uRXf0_VsXFqsIWYYg4Mv1fwf2Hl823f7m23EVKKI06tjODnFgrqILm8jA7_-crlzV8_H554dRm63-z-kDPg2tjSutSi/s1600-h/DSC03645.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCN3AkouzGEUo9uGC3r7AgiPdZZ3F4Dq2cx0pr9ldj7BXH10CA9uRXf0_VsXFqsIWYYg4Mv1fwf2Hl823f7m23EVKKI06tjODnFgrqILm8jA7_-crlzV8_H554dRm63-z-kDPg2tjSutSi/s320/DSC03645.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434383724609509474" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHUKCm-Fmo0Ss0RmBv4E2y7ouOiDUP2JuMgGGXD4aT7UlBQEpAhDZdq8pL4QWFpJH1Y_JyTK5W9hlMmxChjnzYchv6SxCu0fhO6tofo5y-O6RCcy236dSF6r1-1kaWKPG5B3BMk75HH-r/s1600-h/DSC03651.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHUKCm-Fmo0Ss0RmBv4E2y7ouOiDUP2JuMgGGXD4aT7UlBQEpAhDZdq8pL4QWFpJH1Y_JyTK5W9hlMmxChjnzYchv6SxCu0fhO6tofo5y-O6RCcy236dSF6r1-1kaWKPG5B3BMk75HH-r/s320/DSC03651.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434383669337423490" /></a><br />We took a dizzying cable car ride to the top of a shrine which overlooks Bogota:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdNfc139nVCdWsRV6Wx9TZeWEfQh6o42wGTsJrdDtUgMDb6P66XhQz6bFndt0KtvE1DpF1QP0GRCqdAhZwVRK1Au-ZlV5dp9RT-i7jECjSw56nKIk5KN1ce__I0HJ7lgow7Aju6ERsi2kD/s1600-h/DSC03662.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdNfc139nVCdWsRV6Wx9TZeWEfQh6o42wGTsJrdDtUgMDb6P66XhQz6bFndt0KtvE1DpF1QP0GRCqdAhZwVRK1Au-ZlV5dp9RT-i7jECjSw56nKIk5KN1ce__I0HJ7lgow7Aju6ERsi2kD/s320/DSC03662.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434384395273329650" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidz8-oxURf8axVJX7IjkoidfbNufB-z77Qw8dqini1jLBMRoJJNQFvHEeji495Tpozy_19hnJ1kU6HLChLcyypXDzWQIC6Etvt7YHJ17W7gZmEYj4xztcV-LmlHtwQFeTC0ASXkPMae4AB/s1600-h/DSC03678.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidz8-oxURf8axVJX7IjkoidfbNufB-z77Qw8dqini1jLBMRoJJNQFvHEeji495Tpozy_19hnJ1kU6HLChLcyypXDzWQIC6Etvt7YHJ17W7gZmEYj4xztcV-LmlHtwQFeTC0ASXkPMae4AB/s320/DSC03678.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434384343152412946" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXGAtsZ1U03UwizP7Se4NpHeT7P8_DoBTEfV7wwK1_Zc6OmJ81qYoG3_UXWv7PgzpXolVfY-iukPabO4JIx61be6wxJiKg4fyiWBiQsq_j-2RVEMxEXY4XzI5u7tcP5-YqgnYKOs7FyW0q/s1600-h/DSC03687.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXGAtsZ1U03UwizP7Se4NpHeT7P8_DoBTEfV7wwK1_Zc6OmJ81qYoG3_UXWv7PgzpXolVfY-iukPabO4JIx61be6wxJiKg4fyiWBiQsq_j-2RVEMxEXY4XzI5u7tcP5-YqgnYKOs7FyW0q/s320/DSC03687.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434384285018328626" /></a><br />The shrine was crowded with families:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8gRdU1D3zIrNQKV-Oo6RvOVBRpXo7A8MzXbZo1ERdSkRWQ396g7MZPsQTA2xBRQLKGy54hJQsIg70EKqyqOnTktmVzOOZxy7VI9mQUygz0cGvknGk47x7wkhOaSJPsELOqlqIB8WGVU4E/s1600-h/DSC03653.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8gRdU1D3zIrNQKV-Oo6RvOVBRpXo7A8MzXbZo1ERdSkRWQ396g7MZPsQTA2xBRQLKGy54hJQsIg70EKqyqOnTktmVzOOZxy7VI9mQUygz0cGvknGk47x7wkhOaSJPsELOqlqIB8WGVU4E/s320/DSC03653.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434384609620523906" /></a><br />We met a nun who was part of a group of nuns from scattered locations including South America and Africa. They were attempting to develop a strategy to reach today’s youth. During this trip, we heard the good news and the bad news about the Catholic Church in Central America – the good news is that nearly 90% of the people consider themselves Catholic – the bad news is that despite such a large “market share,” the church has not been particularly effective at modifying behavior. The nun, who was extremely articulate and intelligent, explained the difficulty of fighting the culture, particularly with the prevalence of television and youth’s tendency to emulate the behavior they see on TV. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_ewgoCVvP6xe5Cn1z2w2zWyA6P5yLuCJq5uVQ5YseOKwahRbYzQPgenCKWHNZKTae9ze75_C8HHnt1wqlxQae1BP4wt37QqZJDsP2PwEdGsyj30JqVR49jX4zLH5KOnHHdczxMI5kAJxc/s1600-h/DSC03689.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_ewgoCVvP6xe5Cn1z2w2zWyA6P5yLuCJq5uVQ5YseOKwahRbYzQPgenCKWHNZKTae9ze75_C8HHnt1wqlxQae1BP4wt37QqZJDsP2PwEdGsyj30JqVR49jX4zLH5KOnHHdczxMI5kAJxc/s320/DSC03689.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434384753886631250" /></a><br />She made the case that as nuns they try to lead by example. But it’s difficult to compete with the fairly seedy television we have seen on this trip—in an extreme way, its programming promotes the valuing of appearance over substance and is significantly more sexualized than the programming in the US. The programming is aimed at a younger age level, which makes sense as 30% of the population is under age 15 versus 20% in the US. Also, 7.5% of the population is over age 60 versus 17% in the US. Television is way too strong of an influence even for an institution as powerful as the Catholic Church. It was refreshing to talk to such an intelligent lady who was focused on this problem and was, along with her associates, trying to do all she could to help. But it doesn’t look as though the Catholic Church will be able to be successful in significantly decreasing the crime and birth rates here. <br /><br />In Mexico and Colombia – the two large industrial nations we have visited – the GDP (economic activity) is growing faster than the population and this is a stabilizing factor. However, in Central American countries such as Nicaraugua and Honduras, there could be a situation emerging where there is a declining per capital GDP, which is a prescription for instability.<br /><br />Later that day, we picked up our bikes from the airport and had two young men lead us on their bike to the local BMW shop. On their small bike, they were weaving in and out of traffic and it was difficult to keep up with him – until his bike got a flat tire. Helge took his passenger and we found our way to the dealership. <br /><br />The dealership had consented to work on Sunday morning on our bikes – all four of them needed the 10,000 mile inspection and a new set of knobby tires which are better in the mud. Vincent’s bike also needed a new front skid plate, and I needed new front brake pads installed and to have the front end of the bike lowered another ¼ inch. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiMsBlxNd-8CAtrK0RfLA7G_iVRC4Te7FYl4sB7Av0nnPcI0MWnAQDf2-slio9LX4585o6nn390vECt_fbDn5iTPnoVgNAB1jVXYCoj-GUCGv0ASF0GMdmKk_t74ZQu2KB0VoplfPYzYe_/s1600-h/DSC03696.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiMsBlxNd-8CAtrK0RfLA7G_iVRC4Te7FYl4sB7Av0nnPcI0MWnAQDf2-slio9LX4585o6nn390vECt_fbDn5iTPnoVgNAB1jVXYCoj-GUCGv0ASF0GMdmKk_t74ZQu2KB0VoplfPYzYe_/s320/DSC03696.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434384906712692082" /></a><br />We ran into a classic Colombian situation – credit card companies look very hard at transactions in Colombia, and even though we had called the credit card companies to explain the situation prior to our trip, they were unwilling to process the BMW bill (that’s why you carry lots of credit cards).<br /><br />That night we ate at Andres Carne, the most remarkable restaurant I believe I’ve ever seen, about ten kilometers outside Bogota in the town of Chia. The restaurant was huge, seating about 2,000 people (with another 1,000 standing), and was designed by a hippie artist thirty years ago. All sorts of art, junk, and mechanical contrivances – just about everything you can imagine – was hanging from the walls and ceiling. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfTErz76BP6hMnGq-Dboeug03zFML7Dto43GTYq_M4JdCVhSse7ezQjM4CQraMr9MDfE-2uG39OjxmfEm8Ro0ABM4PABMN-dsFuvEjXR35PH5WoViaUMXuCZnuWIJLVNt35GoXXNaDESJi/s1600-h/P1300601.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfTErz76BP6hMnGq-Dboeug03zFML7Dto43GTYq_M4JdCVhSse7ezQjM4CQraMr9MDfE-2uG39OjxmfEm8Ro0ABM4PABMN-dsFuvEjXR35PH5WoViaUMXuCZnuWIJLVNt35GoXXNaDESJi/s320/P1300601.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434385201572599522" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikxz6I7KxlYFJztiCG9KCCxuKhBQVXK5a2ypxukks04mizEi6-FAYx6DNYPZIjKgeaXz4Qo3awVK5mb_Cecm-DOKNBdNuqHxgjaU6c1jvCoYhV2pMwsIZz-k7aWSXe-k_f7cUwDmrH7Kap/s1600-h/P1300598.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikxz6I7KxlYFJztiCG9KCCxuKhBQVXK5a2ypxukks04mizEi6-FAYx6DNYPZIjKgeaXz4Qo3awVK5mb_Cecm-DOKNBdNuqHxgjaU6c1jvCoYhV2pMwsIZz-k7aWSXe-k_f7cUwDmrH7Kap/s320/P1300598.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434385142035878802" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgViWANycua_ADzpYqrHMIcAZyGs8nuaTCuXLwV__gF3gTRxfwdY67ZVCxPGwN14j7JOy4rhXN1VcisgfNH2UtBG2JyulR8kXKAAy59k0-ldaIMkZYlQ_CnfC6O_Xp_9axEAaUax7RmjWR9/s1600-h/P1300596.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgViWANycua_ADzpYqrHMIcAZyGs8nuaTCuXLwV__gF3gTRxfwdY67ZVCxPGwN14j7JOy4rhXN1VcisgfNH2UtBG2JyulR8kXKAAy59k0-ldaIMkZYlQ_CnfC6O_Xp_9axEAaUax7RmjWR9/s320/P1300596.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434385079451138850" /></a><br />Bands would parade through the restaurant making a racket and creating excitement. <br />There was nonstop cheering and singing in Spanish. We encountered some clowns…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmQuq4q2CXrnA33yVoxalVmJVEvcDHozdQt6sjbt3YoXMO_Uao3JQrMsaRBNWF7bNB44rCdWIcYLNYBK6-VcQ0NRMC6XfWxWDxbLcEdBlaefAeOl0quNFontuqYaqjEKlMUVcCTuYMfrxZ/s1600-h/P1300606.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmQuq4q2CXrnA33yVoxalVmJVEvcDHozdQt6sjbt3YoXMO_Uao3JQrMsaRBNWF7bNB44rCdWIcYLNYBK6-VcQ0NRMC6XfWxWDxbLcEdBlaefAeOl0quNFontuqYaqjEKlMUVcCTuYMfrxZ/s320/P1300606.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434385344006074882" /></a><br />And a dog – carrying yet another birthday cake for me (how many times will I have to celebrate this year?).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiceaWLPTBQuja8Qc1ShUGHa7i-l_Fqq-3KHIbrBJcllg2IMXwFJ9aRFoZSk27ng33GML4IKqim1EbYiOkag4LzIBECIxxJ7qQXlrmc_kBka1H9Na-jbWWHkGmlmIhuigJQM9U0Mq3nJ2lU/s1600-h/P1300612.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiceaWLPTBQuja8Qc1ShUGHa7i-l_Fqq-3KHIbrBJcllg2IMXwFJ9aRFoZSk27ng33GML4IKqim1EbYiOkag4LzIBECIxxJ7qQXlrmc_kBka1H9Na-jbWWHkGmlmIhuigJQM9U0Mq3nJ2lU/s320/P1300612.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434385806016283698" /></a><br />Here we are with the harassed bar owner (not exactly the lifestyle strived for by a hippie)<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY9yeWAJdDXMcvX2hYRXF_5bG8N5vaH9vcuAT2hzlc305celvdrZdXPXiMeq4s3m2oW5fFCrM_KL16jFPb1dPOjmutSf7Hm23IcSJdy3SPnrPqJORj1Wog2GZ9ZF8XoP6KLFsRVTPhn-Ho/s1600-h/P1300625.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY9yeWAJdDXMcvX2hYRXF_5bG8N5vaH9vcuAT2hzlc305celvdrZdXPXiMeq4s3m2oW5fFCrM_KL16jFPb1dPOjmutSf7Hm23IcSJdy3SPnrPqJORj1Wog2GZ9ZF8XoP6KLFsRVTPhn-Ho/s320/P1300625.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434385952220308178" /></a><br />The restaurant was an installation work, staffed by 700 college students and musicians, who would come romping through the restaurant, raising a ruckus.<br /><br />Knowing we had to make an early start in the morning, we left around 10:00 p.m. – 2 hours before the real craziness begins. The restaurant closes at 5:00 a.m., and apparently great care is taken so that no one drives home intoxicated. The energy of the place was enormous. The service was just okay, but the experience was extraordinary. I believe this concept would work in the US if someone had the patience to pull it off.<br /><br />After five days without significant riding, it was fun to get on the road again. We headed out in the morning, led by Luis and Anabella:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimL0WQixYQojTookrcamqcph2Fvtz36sUX81dMKSG-2ye-HuC9bC8kFSYOuYWIMEDPoy2lghHnNdzmX5LPVr48_GY4OFTSqaP8umpb2mDj9vTzCKUPDQGa3oYz7f-WQAx7mCt_YNbLL5jw/s1600-h/DSC03757.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimL0WQixYQojTookrcamqcph2Fvtz36sUX81dMKSG-2ye-HuC9bC8kFSYOuYWIMEDPoy2lghHnNdzmX5LPVr48_GY4OFTSqaP8umpb2mDj9vTzCKUPDQGa3oYz7f-WQAx7mCt_YNbLL5jw/s320/DSC03757.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434386093709323218" /></a><br />The numbers displayed on the front and back of their jackets and helmets are the license numbers of the motorcycles. This garb is required in many places in Central and South America because assassins use motorcycles to cut through traffic and crowds while carrying a passenger with a rifle or pistol. They use the speed and maneuverability of the bike to eliminate government officials, judges, or others whose interests don’t align with their own.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1qOs-CXuy8H2thyphenhyphenlK4Ii9BpP1VFG0DAa5V43WmU6ITbk3ENczpDF-91AQM7rd5V9X5xRf8ycZEwAFAA0m5hM-9JJV6gjj5sNoenBtrR4uSQmkSovY8A8XZvZF-JwWVH5fk3JGrIApS1l/s1600-h/DSC03721.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1qOs-CXuy8H2thyphenhyphenlK4Ii9BpP1VFG0DAa5V43WmU6ITbk3ENczpDF-91AQM7rd5V9X5xRf8ycZEwAFAA0m5hM-9JJV6gjj5sNoenBtrR4uSQmkSovY8A8XZvZF-JwWVH5fk3JGrIApS1l/s320/DSC03721.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434386259616822514" /></a><br />We started up into the mountains, stopping at a café along the way:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje2GFLrGEC3LCQDG3UifXNfFqtE38Cswzi8YvlfPy21S1uK9Eb3FvfAwcOw62yEr3OnVdLctvqkSFZmDr0ztqdWg3diSg1sJimngcxK0ia7xa2015a6ihLMYpYrMr6B26OYivzW3yiD03n/s1600-h/DSC03758.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje2GFLrGEC3LCQDG3UifXNfFqtE38Cswzi8YvlfPy21S1uK9Eb3FvfAwcOw62yEr3OnVdLctvqkSFZmDr0ztqdWg3diSg1sJimngcxK0ia7xa2015a6ihLMYpYrMr6B26OYivzW3yiD03n/s320/DSC03758.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434386415854910290" /></a><br />Bicycling is hugely popular in Colombia, and this small country of 45 million has won a number of international events. There were thousands of bicyclists dressed in fancy racing gear with bikes so fancy that they brought them into the restaurant to keep them safe from theft.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZhpDMqu9k0j2P0vUVYDejYzh3Ds1K6mvKiL1a8ApHOBq5PZarSsBMcxDsU5hmTNhOWxz2n-8jYrdzflYgmWuZNaAt3ALGuL8JNN62PerOmzLioEoeG8rvLxyYpFnns-3vc_TH6hovtPIg/s1600-h/DSC03755.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZhpDMqu9k0j2P0vUVYDejYzh3Ds1K6mvKiL1a8ApHOBq5PZarSsBMcxDsU5hmTNhOWxz2n-8jYrdzflYgmWuZNaAt3ALGuL8JNN62PerOmzLioEoeG8rvLxyYpFnns-3vc_TH6hovtPIg/s320/DSC03755.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434386566473298546" /></a><br />We began in Bogota at 7,000 feet and drove to a windy and cool peak altitude of 10,500 feet (the highest point in Colombia), riding through a series of sharp switchbacks and down into valleys as low as 1,000 feet where the temperature was 100°F. <br /><br />Roger was stopped by police twice for speeding (no one else was stopped). Soldiers have helped to keep this road open and are very supportive. There are significant checkpoints along the way and we had a chance to stop and speak with the soldiers. The FARC guerillas here have been planting mines to protect their territory, resulting in the Colombian army having the second highest casualty rate in the world for mine-inflicted injuries. As we drive by, they gave us a “thumbs-up” to indicate the area is clear.<br /><br />We arrived at a resort area west of Bogota near Quindio.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt-V26yl-mYSSz9-dBesZXizccNkQiuSH2hTDXunuB0JRKdOGP3OmxfZu96d7N_aJ6hZfGF0OILrUfpk1DBrREgpr45-BZIv-B_YO1jp0N5K8FgSCG7KDOSrVReKLsgBJyfXKRuQfOKcTb/s1600-h/DSC03831.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt-V26yl-mYSSz9-dBesZXizccNkQiuSH2hTDXunuB0JRKdOGP3OmxfZu96d7N_aJ6hZfGF0OILrUfpk1DBrREgpr45-BZIv-B_YO1jp0N5K8FgSCG7KDOSrVReKLsgBJyfXKRuQfOKcTb/s320/DSC03831.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434386718063373314" /></a><br />I had a twinge of anxiety when I saw a horse and pony corralled in the lobby (fearing we may be in for some sort of Tijuana experience), but it turned out to be a resort for families and had clowns and ponies for the children. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoE_BG70eT-CnNcZDc1pwfDvpCjXZ4R7QeiZr8zJ4X0gtoEZR9kneyDSy3B2Wkocd1Tgy3iv5Plqy4JylbwSUYsrMs1k1PXe15od9oFyZ_2O55WuLGzyB9RDUiAhtBFGYs9yjUeUJhNRoC/s1600-h/DSC03828.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoE_BG70eT-CnNcZDc1pwfDvpCjXZ4R7QeiZr8zJ4X0gtoEZR9kneyDSy3B2Wkocd1Tgy3iv5Plqy4JylbwSUYsrMs1k1PXe15od9oFyZ_2O55WuLGzyB9RDUiAhtBFGYs9yjUeUJhNRoC/s320/DSC03828.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434386927382199906" /></a><br />We couldn’t stay in a “normal” room, because we would have been too far from our bikes – Helge always insists we keep them nearby (a cowboy must sleep near his horse) – so they put all six of us in a condo with its own pool…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyiK0xnck7cWLNhztcdzE_ry1jw428ST10Uep5FIBJPCukH8E9CC72kHIUL_nkRbi887zyXov_wPDh_7SieMK-X9gQ433mZnBLzp4gqRdnTYkfDn5lMqkUp13WtcGzZ1-StiUN2Utg_wZV/s1600-h/DSC03826.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyiK0xnck7cWLNhztcdzE_ry1jw428ST10Uep5FIBJPCukH8E9CC72kHIUL_nkRbi887zyXov_wPDh_7SieMK-X9gQ433mZnBLzp4gqRdnTYkfDn5lMqkUp13WtcGzZ1-StiUN2Utg_wZV/s320/DSC03826.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434387086329978898" /></a><br />Which was perched on the edge of the rainforest.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEs2BcwbadzMmrN96JZTiGn6NT0XAYf4xLyRvtdh1VjtP7ntysbCnImj5BGgLKE52hxBBWGEPeWTbMDPbAjUVzwLRL5fNHTlegfejdGUwtpUHWKUjcjeXkQVj6iuXOk2GVfWF7Xjv3xKX/s1600-h/DSC03827.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEs2BcwbadzMmrN96JZTiGn6NT0XAYf4xLyRvtdh1VjtP7ntysbCnImj5BGgLKE52hxBBWGEPeWTbMDPbAjUVzwLRL5fNHTlegfejdGUwtpUHWKUjcjeXkQVj6iuXOk2GVfWF7Xjv3xKX/s320/DSC03827.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434387226831540866" /></a><br /><strong>February 1</strong><br />The day started well – I was awarded “camper of the day” for the previous day – but only by default. Roger’s two speeding tickets knocked him out of the running, and Vince committed the cardinal error of checking out and leaving behind his computer and an essential piece of luggage in his room. <br /><br />The only item left in Vincent’s panniers was a pair of dirty underwear:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQen3FXGeuFWEJFwPewxCP-cpKVFTcE5Hmy6DTaKej5FhQHCo7eNX4OjjXmMTelY9xXdDq7Q3otXBCBNUhurK-zZfAR1AxpXEwQy6LlxV8fsQe2h8d4Va9Q40kCdbqXd4oH8X50qWwcKu/s1600-h/DSC03835.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQen3FXGeuFWEJFwPewxCP-cpKVFTcE5Hmy6DTaKej5FhQHCo7eNX4OjjXmMTelY9xXdDq7Q3otXBCBNUhurK-zZfAR1AxpXEwQy6LlxV8fsQe2h8d4Va9Q40kCdbqXd4oH8X50qWwcKu/s320/DSC03835.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434387504042097666" /></a><br />Luckily, a hotel clerk checking the room to ensure that we hadn’t caused any damage or stolen any towels came across Vince’s belongings and informed him prior to our leaving the hotel. (The fact that the hotel would check our rooms before we left shows just how grungy we all look).<br /><br />I showed Anabella the pictures of my family posted on my pannier. She approves whole-heartedly of the 5 grandchildren and 6 dogs (she agrees that it is appropriate to have more dogs than grandchildren).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCdO50xfNAE_P2H6Ng098KuZq954lQk2idd7Ke0Ah62G1luH0bRVdzE62p7sY0-TfACk6kUI_P8sAi183eiACBPwpaKu9qNvQh5s1E0TFP1oDxslN9P-3F6jIHhUPtRYed8lvaOYLb3i0x/s1600-h/DSC03846.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCdO50xfNAE_P2H6Ng098KuZq954lQk2idd7Ke0Ah62G1luH0bRVdzE62p7sY0-TfACk6kUI_P8sAi183eiACBPwpaKu9qNvQh5s1E0TFP1oDxslN9P-3F6jIHhUPtRYed8lvaOYLb3i0x/s320/DSC03846.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434387650323302418" /></a><br />We packed our bikes, had breakfast, and headed back to a spot just off the Pan American Highway to a spot where we would say goodbye to Luis and Anabella. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBp4LCLaalfOaDZUbUdYQ3uegmgkIZmBEt0DU6WIJQkkkHglhKghhBGOr95KR73vhxHmmCxOb0fa8GPKGuvrFkvvJSo8Ymxyl6ZRyoyWDX40x2XwvbJRvFPsUTisYXweLwRb03RkR7ncNx/s1600-h/DSC03850.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBp4LCLaalfOaDZUbUdYQ3uegmgkIZmBEt0DU6WIJQkkkHglhKghhBGOr95KR73vhxHmmCxOb0fa8GPKGuvrFkvvJSo8Ymxyl6ZRyoyWDX40x2XwvbJRvFPsUTisYXweLwRb03RkR7ncNx/s320/DSC03850.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434387805841288594" /></a><br />They have been magnificent hosts – we met their friends and were provided with a wonderful flavor of Colombian culture. They cleared up many misconceptions we had about Colombia. We are hoping that they will come to the US in June and join us for some riding in the States.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiymSWpvtv1NWCFZpV5N2hIA1qmV08fvW9khoILmp8NmTp8nEImSe-u8VQv4Xy9fkWGPyJqlAUiwAG37ihBwcKvrGlY7NQ5Z68UF7ysscIXBdyNWPTU90ez8u02dyJI3bHHHk3Gr7stQdnD/s1600-h/DSC03837.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiymSWpvtv1NWCFZpV5N2hIA1qmV08fvW9khoILmp8NmTp8nEImSe-u8VQv4Xy9fkWGPyJqlAUiwAG37ihBwcKvrGlY7NQ5Z68UF7ysscIXBdyNWPTU90ez8u02dyJI3bHHHk3Gr7stQdnD/s320/DSC03837.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434387937560840306" /></a><br />We rode along the Pan American Highway, which stretches from Alaska to Buenos Aires with only an 80-mile break in the Darien Gap between Panama and Colombia. Colombia would like to fill this gap, but Panama has concerns – one is the spread of hoof in mouth disease. According to some, the Darien Gap has the greatest plant and small animal diversity than any other spot on the planet. <br /><br />Along the way and throughout the coffee-growing regions of Colombia there are 50’s and 60’s era jeeps “Old Willy’s” everywhere – clearly a cult item:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1h6j0mPQImE7bcQr_D-1qx6QB1PlceMFHnb3P2RsOEvRNOZRrb56lH9h9ph_vfEBCW-vQclo8I-kcVtp37v7fQjnqFsJ6pYuBLcGCvJe94EQ4S-uEaB8GzzeAnZ_gY1gBdF44h_7167k/s1600-h/DSC03839.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1h6j0mPQImE7bcQr_D-1qx6QB1PlceMFHnb3P2RsOEvRNOZRrb56lH9h9ph_vfEBCW-vQclo8I-kcVtp37v7fQjnqFsJ6pYuBLcGCvJe94EQ4S-uEaB8GzzeAnZ_gY1gBdF44h_7167k/s320/DSC03839.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434388098079470626" /></a><br />They are this region’s version of the Harley Davidson motorcycle:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0hyxq106YW-Q-G4eNUYRZKiVE34-O7Ip46PluKdQXNv3qhqlxPU6gqKzUenMkKcKxnkdZgreppASI8GsM9azFKhFDmo3UOpGcIM8gvUafID8xOfEzLTIf_ihKM8q1RAfjQhGohTaV0UMp/s1600-h/DSC03841.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0hyxq106YW-Q-G4eNUYRZKiVE34-O7Ip46PluKdQXNv3qhqlxPU6gqKzUenMkKcKxnkdZgreppASI8GsM9azFKhFDmo3UOpGcIM8gvUafID8xOfEzLTIf_ihKM8q1RAfjQhGohTaV0UMp/s320/DSC03841.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434388231591809442" /></a><br />We continued south to Pasto, covering 360 miles, and experienced some of Colombia’s diversity. We have heard it said that Colombia’s violence and crime can be blamed in part on its being a melting pot. Colombia is 50% Mestizo – a mix of Indian and European (Luis and Anabella fall into this category). The next largest racial group is white, approximately 20%. There is a small Black African population, perhaps 4%, along the coast and near Cali where sugar cane is processed, and Mulattos make up another 14% of the population.<br /><br />One of many sugar cane plants we saw: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG5PhgUJnRhD2LVNYQCKHFHK75Ps-o64Q9v-pARFtGKgv_BveU-xd7-SFdRamG1xOMnuFnRTDcMriVg76PPgBNuY9CxEcfsscZ5pQ6FFrh0-nIXwJWtcKnzmHNAD0fe6Yund7Y0PLfi9yj/s1600-h/DSC03858.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG5PhgUJnRhD2LVNYQCKHFHK75Ps-o64Q9v-pARFtGKgv_BveU-xd7-SFdRamG1xOMnuFnRTDcMriVg76PPgBNuY9CxEcfsscZ5pQ6FFrh0-nIXwJWtcKnzmHNAD0fe6Yund7Y0PLfi9yj/s320/DSC03858.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434388389293869906" /></a><br />Tractors and over-the-road haul trucks – pulling as many as five 40 foot trailers to the plant for processing:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinn1tCgcxpFq1o_j9NuMpeIVqZ5W68gKMJ0duS1owcVY-MFOAi9cqLoTHZeS3rnYlPVqybmMRKoE5_x9Rok0NhKrfYE3KZlSSi2YWwEvb9hnadt-a3Ysxfcbs3rk9897A21Z-BbabwY_TW/s1600-h/DSC03864.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinn1tCgcxpFq1o_j9NuMpeIVqZ5W68gKMJ0duS1owcVY-MFOAi9cqLoTHZeS3rnYlPVqybmMRKoE5_x9Rok0NhKrfYE3KZlSSi2YWwEvb9hnadt-a3Ysxfcbs3rk9897A21Z-BbabwY_TW/s320/DSC03864.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434388581980010290" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ZKMf-ur5PDw3eb9H-u5UD-mCp8yysVxYbWy77F_2gmJ-8JpBe7f7iUtbwtAKYgN9ocBfs0FxEnnQxWdiE7rrWeH2jx5y6DpeBXgeHXFFvX5qYPd1zBOoxJq2htnPwrYABG-xlnBgiQod/s1600-h/DSC03868.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ZKMf-ur5PDw3eb9H-u5UD-mCp8yysVxYbWy77F_2gmJ-8JpBe7f7iUtbwtAKYgN9ocBfs0FxEnnQxWdiE7rrWeH2jx5y6DpeBXgeHXFFvX5qYPd1zBOoxJq2htnPwrYABG-xlnBgiQod/s320/DSC03868.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434388514820324578" /></a><br />Helge decided to bypass Cali – improperly known for its narcotic involvement, but more properly known for its beautiful women. According to most experts, its women rank third in beauty in the world; ranked second (according to National Geographic) is Novosibirsk, Siberia; and of course the most beautiful women in the world are in Cleveland. According to what we heard, Cali is the center for silicone enhancements. Colombia’s drug mafia favor enhanced derrières first and breast enhancements second. The drug group used to be prominent in Cali with their fancy cars and arrogance, all hunched over from the weight of their gold chains and bracelets. They generally had a large number of silicone-enhanced women in tow – but tough enforcement has driven these people underground and they now tend to live out in the country. <br /><br />From the all-too-brief visit of Colombia, we were all dazzled by the country and the warm hospitality of the people – their friendliness, enthusiasm and love of their country. Colombia’s current tourist tag-line is something like “the only risk in Colombia is that you won’t want to leave.” It’s fitting but suggests a perceived risk to tourists. These risks come in three categories – one is the mafia, as the locals call them (who engage in drug processing in mini factories in the forests and then smuggle cocaine through Mexico and in other ways into the US market). These people are not a risk to tourists, but rather they are a risk to Colombian and US national security: they fund political campaigns, they undermine political systems through the vast amount of profit provided by the illegal drug market to the aggressive, lawless and unscrupulous middle man. They create their own morality, just like the runners did in the US during prohibition. The US government and the Colombian government have placed a huge priority on stopping (or slowing down) the Colombian drug industry and distribution. But the real problem is the demand and profit opportunity from the US. I increasingly feel that a solution (although I am not well-informed) would be to legalize drugs in the US, make them available by prescription and tattoo the users defining them as such. This would eliminate the profit opportunity and in so doing would reduce the number of people addicted each year. This is obviously a complicated subject – but the drug problems I see in Colombia and Central America seem to be US problems – not Central and South American problems.<br /><br />The second perceived crime risk in Colombia is a more significant one – petty theft and robbery. These problems can be invited in a couple of ways – the first is not keeping track of your possessions (parking your motorcycles unattended) – this is preventable. The second category is taxi cabs. A classic robbery approach is having the cab take you to a place where people jump into the cab and rob you – sometimes taking you to an automated teller to obtain more cash. This too is preventable: get a cab at the hotel and keep the same cab while shopping. If you need to call a cab, you can obtain a code to confirm you have a legitimate cab. <br /><br />The third risk is a problem mainly for Colombians – where they are kidnapped and held for ransom or worse. This weighs on the minds of all Colombians, and it’s why there are tall walls and fences everywhere.<br /><br />Passing by Cali, the drive was incredibly beautiful – climbing up through the mountains to nearly 9,000 feet – viewing the valley thousands of feet straight down. The road was cut into the side of the mountain, creating overhangs in some spots. Unlike the range we had crossed earlier in the day, it was dry and rocky with a minimum of vegetation. We could see the entire view of the mountain range – two and three deep – roughly 30 degrees off vertical.<br /><br />As we neared Pasto upon reaching the top of a hill, we saw nearly thirty Indians begging alongside the road. Given the terrain, it would have been impossible to stop even if you wanted to give them something—the futility of their begging there was puzzling and tragic. The Indian population is by far the most impoverished and makes up only 2% of the population. As we travel farther south, the Indian population will become much more significant.<br /><br />We arrived in Pasto in heavy traffic after a 360-mile ride:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTofRbODd32sJtp2My_PRuZwUeoSCjri9U8NrzoRJ8FLAUAVP3YSEFXXIUIf_bbNP8dB-VooETDoiq7wc2hHl1WUR3eA7jn_8r37LsdfBnhwE6mMe8_RZM6sDMLn-p27XxkMh10cVl84fS/s1600-h/DSC03872.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTofRbODd32sJtp2My_PRuZwUeoSCjri9U8NrzoRJ8FLAUAVP3YSEFXXIUIf_bbNP8dB-VooETDoiq7wc2hHl1WUR3eA7jn_8r37LsdfBnhwE6mMe8_RZM6sDMLn-p27XxkMh10cVl84fS/s320/DSC03872.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434388809402491554" /></a><br />We got a hotel behind locked gates with our bikes twenty feet away from a 24-hour security guard. But having said all of this about security, the joy of being in Colombia far outweighs any risk to security. There are simple ways to keep safe, and the country is well worth the trip.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVZ439PkYi6HBGoQzbnkO2uaW8eN6Ex0DQCjJnb5D8O9VYCF4YU47rL6zidgFMgI8TMiKcDaZm8MYObVuWe_LbRnIUZPQd7SvboKdi4M1Yp27bRn2y6a8cBAVV5oDN4BQIQJ4HfFrMnFNb/s1600-h/DSC03871.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVZ439PkYi6HBGoQzbnkO2uaW8eN6Ex0DQCjJnb5D8O9VYCF4YU47rL6zidgFMgI8TMiKcDaZm8MYObVuWe_LbRnIUZPQd7SvboKdi4M1Yp27bRn2y6a8cBAVV5oDN4BQIQJ4HfFrMnFNb/s320/DSC03871.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434388935130336946" /></a><br />Tomorrow, we will cross the border into Ecuador and head to Quito (crossing the equator). Our plan is to stay two or three days in Ecuador before moving on.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-20167938661766082742010-01-28T11:11:00.000-08:002010-02-03T07:15:48.217-08:00Day 18-22 – January 22-26<em><strong>Tegucigalpa, Honduras to Managua, Nicaragua to the Arenal Volcano in Costa Rica to Panama City, Panama</strong></em> <br /><br />In Tegucigalpa, we left our bikes under the watchful eye of this guard brandishing a WWII MI Carbine.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhafphP24hy3WcM4LJqzxQHwdf009GbeuaxqRnrnO5PQVzIo3FCYnTbA8zkl9LwgzcnOvuZyrQMQRO8IDAYAXLCe2eZlethZImRNlmdhgkwHnCnwmaDGBYOWPJSbBcAUfVqiB9_DA5f5dWF/s1600-h/DSC03021.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhafphP24hy3WcM4LJqzxQHwdf009GbeuaxqRnrnO5PQVzIo3FCYnTbA8zkl9LwgzcnOvuZyrQMQRO8IDAYAXLCe2eZlethZImRNlmdhgkwHnCnwmaDGBYOWPJSbBcAUfVqiB9_DA5f5dWF/s320/DSC03021.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431870929910057714" /></a><br />We departed the capital city of Tegucigalpa early in the morning to avoid rush hour and proceeded the short distance to the Nicaraguan border. We do not have a detailed GPS map of the city, but fortunately Helge speaks Spanish well enough and is a good enough judge of character to pick the appropriate set of conflicting directions. <br /><br />Both of my cameras malfunctioned today – I’ve been wearing a single-lens reflex around my neck and have been taking the majority of pictures with it on the fly. I hold it to my chest with a bungee cord over my shoulder and around my back which allows me to release the throttle with my right hand, pull in the clutch with my left hand, and snap a picture with a minimum of disruption (not a perfect system). It has an 18mm wide-angle lens which allows me to basically use the camera as a point-and-shoot while riding and adjusts to a mild telephoto of 70mm for other uses. However, the battery was drained after only one day’s use, so I’ll have to look into replacing it. <br /><br />I turned to my second camera, a small rugged, waterproof Olympus pocket camera which I keep in my front breast pocket, but it has a broken LED so it’s difficult to get the settings right. I am having a replacement Olympus pocket camera sent to me for our arrival in Panama City. The other guys do not take still photos while riding—whether this is because they are wise or just not trying hard enough, I don’t know. <br /><br />Helge uses a small Hero camera (the size of a box of matches) attached in an elaborate Rube Goldberg get-up to his helmet. It takes video and still pictures but requires you to reach up blindly and press the buttons. In addition, you cannot see what you have taken; you have to assume that you’ve gotten the shot. A handlebar remote would be the perfect addition to this rig.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi064aq9DiThNzcUtdJfvWKC1PiK47D2ldE6Pl7wwE25VRBT8SM3ljhJv4bvBuFI5MpyRSdzRVjh9KdT6ZOj0Cp-4y9l6TUHI5XJO2PBXwfbppI2uqkrwJyGrZ_EM14dp00iq-cDbnuTmXW/s1600-h/P1150375.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi064aq9DiThNzcUtdJfvWKC1PiK47D2ldE6Pl7wwE25VRBT8SM3ljhJv4bvBuFI5MpyRSdzRVjh9KdT6ZOj0Cp-4y9l6TUHI5XJO2PBXwfbppI2uqkrwJyGrZ_EM14dp00iq-cDbnuTmXW/s320/P1150375.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431872054445516690" /></a><br />Helge is a true photography aficionado with an artistic temperament, a wonderful sense of composition, and to-die-for equipment. The Hero camera is the least complicated photographic device he has. The rest of us have helmet-mounted video cameras as well. Vince has a very fancy Sony high resolution camera that (for those of you who are photographically inclined) is 1920 x 1080 pixels and uses 1GB of memory every minute it is on. Roger and I both have a POV camera that is 720 x 480 pixels; it was 1/4 the cost of Vince’s but obviously takes lower quality pictures and is not quite as easy to operate. The videos that Roger and Vince have been taking will be incorporated into Helge’s final video. I have not been using my video camera enough.<br /><br />We spent just over an hour at the border (the shortest time yet) and passed into Nicaragua shortly after noon with Helge negotiating our way through the issues of importing motorcycles. The bikes have to be imported, insured and then exported upon departure or a tax is levied. This rigmarole is in addition to the usual routine of passing through immigration and customs.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoorDWyP3ui6q3tetvKvA8bIS31N0PRQgGXDVv6Jz3OC9i0maAbJ7Psd82HPuJPZhdMCn3Mw3kyHwMnS4XrB2MDgArJL88ZClLb8qQ8SuqEMOD_gWkXpEYQR19we4TNG7z-_FM5SmCcsTc/s1600-h/P1220509.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoorDWyP3ui6q3tetvKvA8bIS31N0PRQgGXDVv6Jz3OC9i0maAbJ7Psd82HPuJPZhdMCn3Mw3kyHwMnS4XrB2MDgArJL88ZClLb8qQ8SuqEMOD_gWkXpEYQR19we4TNG7z-_FM5SmCcsTc/s320/P1220509.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431872260880774866" /></a><br />Roger takes the opportunity to have his boots spit-shined. By tomorrow, he will be covered head-to-toe in mud (looking more like a pig farmer), but for the moment at least he looks spiffy.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikjJDuo-2Yr1MA670T94qkgK2GqR2bDaAt1NVZhHjTQ1u84-gmvHKnqDzwgcxa6uLzRMvRfvIPUPQ4cGwNgj2R4aYQxx5C6MlWbB1BbrcT75XiMBPZgIadu6DYGHUaTxa08C3ws681rrn3/s1600-h/P1220506.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikjJDuo-2Yr1MA670T94qkgK2GqR2bDaAt1NVZhHjTQ1u84-gmvHKnqDzwgcxa6uLzRMvRfvIPUPQ4cGwNgj2R4aYQxx5C6MlWbB1BbrcT75XiMBPZgIadu6DYGHUaTxa08C3ws681rrn3/s320/P1220506.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431872369589101906" /></a><br />At the border, we met an enthusiastic and dedicated Bible teacher from Mentor, Ohio with a large group of students from all over the US. After listening to his short but enthusiastic talk about Jesus, the Bible, and being saved, I asked his Nicaraguan-born associate how his group could help in a country with such a strong tradition of Catholicism. He explained that in the Central American countries, Catholicism is cultural and traditional, but not behavior-changing. A lot of the attraction of Catholicism in this area, he stated, is for its accompanying festivals and special events, but there is not a focus on changing morality. He mentioned that sexual promiscuity is rampant and that unprotected sex is the norm—the birth rate confirms this). He did acknowledge that their group would have a difficult time influencing this behavior. It struck me that loose morals may suggest a market opportunity for other religions. But to help these people and deal with the out-of-wedlock birthrate, the focus should obviously be on education – not on preaching a particular brand of religion.<br /><br />We stopped for lunch and met these two adorable boys – Vince showed them pictures of his motorcycle being ferried across a river in Laos on a large canoe and the boys noticed immediately that it was a different motorcycle (which it was) and specifically detailed the reasons why. They were bright, articulate and questioning – marvelous kids that could rise to any height in a strong, well-managed economy.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghvYwQ208No5YpRSej5rVtuw_LORzJzGTe-i4ENKEnhB-34uvLMyeKuZpCmFCHp7RNkz9H1QZVQajUTvzj2PwEhyphenhyphenqelL_RQfOPvHbBNL6qw1l7qXV6lkk0NDwZm_1ESFnouTJ23ge43-J-/s1600-h/P1220511.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghvYwQ208No5YpRSej5rVtuw_LORzJzGTe-i4ENKEnhB-34uvLMyeKuZpCmFCHp7RNkz9H1QZVQajUTvzj2PwEhyphenhyphenqelL_RQfOPvHbBNL6qw1l7qXV6lkk0NDwZm_1ESFnouTJ23ge43-J-/s320/P1220511.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431873601192651986" /></a><br />The boys directed our attention to a DC3 exhibit on the horizon. They were proud that the Sandinista guerillas had shot down the dictator Somoza’s plane in 1979 (without him in it) – it was considered a major coup.<br /><br />I brought along some finger puppets to distribute to the children along the way – the requirement to receive a puppet is to make the sound of the animal. These two received the lion and tiger (easy sounds to make) – but what do you do about the rabbit?<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnOpUBQQSWigT6AShgsBa_1yrzP39D6V6PnwdYOoG8Qw8AOS9nW_ebWFsmpBMOHM4rgpEyENUu6EtzAaZPqe7Ct4h0SAOWgQzeCIKSAYce1d3Ug-XhE3Y7MrPfH_bJ8oDDAm-ZB_6CbNPO/s1600-h/P1220510.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnOpUBQQSWigT6AShgsBa_1yrzP39D6V6PnwdYOoG8Qw8AOS9nW_ebWFsmpBMOHM4rgpEyENUu6EtzAaZPqe7Ct4h0SAOWgQzeCIKSAYce1d3Ug-XhE3Y7MrPfH_bJ8oDDAm-ZB_6CbNPO/s320/P1220510.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431872614653707970" /></a><br />As we proceeded into Nicaragua, the poverty was more evident. <br /><br />We arrived at Managua, the capital of Nicaragua, in time for rush hour. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpYTvcjGYvTLQWMq2dBRQ11bbz_seie8CHqPrTQktzWQPst_YGTari0KdW9rX2LKAynAX_MFwFixvhkBo73_K3BwxiaIdSds2fXeuT4kxbACba9PuXROjK6vl5UXAHP5BOh-2tSocIhjTM/s1600-h/P1220512.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpYTvcjGYvTLQWMq2dBRQ11bbz_seie8CHqPrTQktzWQPst_YGTari0KdW9rX2LKAynAX_MFwFixvhkBo73_K3BwxiaIdSds2fXeuT4kxbACba9PuXROjK6vl5UXAHP5BOh-2tSocIhjTM/s320/P1220512.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431873739952599202" /></a><br />Managua belies the poverty of the country – parts are quite modern with significant commercial areas. We located an Intercontinental Hotel after losing our way several times. We were told not to venture outside of the hotel unless doing so in an Intercontinental-approved cab and holding the cab at your destination until your return; apparently, it is common for cab drivers to hold up their tourist clients at gun point. Accordingly, we ate at the hotel and pondered over our next day’s itinerary – one thought was to visit Roger’s daughter, Erika, at Malpais, Costa Rica on the Osa Peninsula, which is terrific surfing country. We could either stay in the hotel next door or sleep on the beach. The next morning, however, we determined that as the road onto the Osa Peninsula is unimproved it would be too time consuming to make the round trip. So we decided on the Arenal Volcano, one of 10 volcanoes in Costa Rica.<br /><br />We headed out early on the morning of the 23rd while the city was still sleeping.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvvzH6UuLZVixfbkKtbYokjI1hhPY9Aw-NzBvQLGx7PaBcNhYlJ_Qhcx_-24r_adiMGMpYFbO8UM7d1KCflIn7oFEOCi781vVd8KXqosv2toTsX5QZ2WQglBeWxJkiC7-ksK-uIpTiK3up/s1600-h/DSC03028.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvvzH6UuLZVixfbkKtbYokjI1hhPY9Aw-NzBvQLGx7PaBcNhYlJ_Qhcx_-24r_adiMGMpYFbO8UM7d1KCflIn7oFEOCi781vVd8KXqosv2toTsX5QZ2WQglBeWxJkiC7-ksK-uIpTiK3up/s320/DSC03028.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431874351786749506" /></a><br />Even modern Managua had commercial horse carts.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG8OnERQUrBAdATgbL1civWqHkqdU72GwoSdGCBlL3MbGc2qgcLcV1iI76hQY1x0syHE8y82VFU8Viticg58cLHMuvSBWzJu-B1QWUV2Z4E9NmowuBmRJCDKSl2ikTo-x5vbGw0P9DzV3D/s1600-h/DSC03031.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG8OnERQUrBAdATgbL1civWqHkqdU72GwoSdGCBlL3MbGc2qgcLcV1iI76hQY1x0syHE8y82VFU8Viticg58cLHMuvSBWzJu-B1QWUV2Z4E9NmowuBmRJCDKSl2ikTo-x5vbGw0P9DzV3D/s320/DSC03031.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431874487191165858" /></a><br />Managua is too crowded and does not hold enough interest for Helge’s tour next year so he decided we should visit Granada, a colonial city not far from Managua. The sun blazes hotly even at this hour of the morning.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Rp3FGLUw5Y93wVKEba9kdN-RUmqu3oimyHyXpPH1u1wDVvW2BQViqvSH6uE9_t7BNWjFgnt8ykyWOmxDeK_EdGA6e6oyzTrSL3c1NNSlKiMJJbTDDbIUfOsm7dYTYH9xSiqcnWH4Dga7/s1600-h/DSC03032.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Rp3FGLUw5Y93wVKEba9kdN-RUmqu3oimyHyXpPH1u1wDVvW2BQViqvSH6uE9_t7BNWjFgnt8ykyWOmxDeK_EdGA6e6oyzTrSL3c1NNSlKiMJJbTDDbIUfOsm7dYTYH9xSiqcnWH4Dga7/s320/DSC03032.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431874618183346306" /></a><br />Granada is a beautiful city with narrow streets, colonial architecture, which has been spared of the KFC, Burger King and McDonald’s that plague Managua.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijg2olKDhewPZACgxwMw1dEK1NT1UVmEDSOmnWLs3Ij9V99UKA9P4QfQfXNLo-VkjRBmHEK9jNAPF4ULYbn8GF3BG-yHbN19JEIMREfDZGvU6trrcUAnEI4gOghD3mkzQeWOWyXPtyFqiW/s1600-h/DSC03038.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijg2olKDhewPZACgxwMw1dEK1NT1UVmEDSOmnWLs3Ij9V99UKA9P4QfQfXNLo-VkjRBmHEK9jNAPF4ULYbn8GF3BG-yHbN19JEIMREfDZGvU6trrcUAnEI4gOghD3mkzQeWOWyXPtyFqiW/s320/DSC03038.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431874816269684418" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzheFYmdOtNogSi9-Pp21AimsaUCqPqX4OA_sgnhpE5p-Y3TeB1-Rr1mln_G4ISpDAvRJPTylPa8wIOsvRTWkIuXhDsGS-1gWnmxKqY85hA_cua-8_OEJMYl4JqGcc9Mjlxcmfl8ylv9j_/s1600-h/DSC03055.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzheFYmdOtNogSi9-Pp21AimsaUCqPqX4OA_sgnhpE5p-Y3TeB1-Rr1mln_G4ISpDAvRJPTylPa8wIOsvRTWkIuXhDsGS-1gWnmxKqY85hA_cua-8_OEJMYl4JqGcc9Mjlxcmfl8ylv9j_/s320/DSC03055.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431874761750440402" /></a><br />With horse carts:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7YKiETBzReJODEMmt82Vtggv-LCwtJEPyKGaicajon4RZqDFsmJP8mtCQHd6UBkvAICfiFi1kSQTUfGFRqFTwLvN7cU0FGapBPeItnvJCYA0YmGr01QItlGx9fU00fdbkNc_wVVZ6PiNL/s1600-h/DSC03075.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7YKiETBzReJODEMmt82Vtggv-LCwtJEPyKGaicajon4RZqDFsmJP8mtCQHd6UBkvAICfiFi1kSQTUfGFRqFTwLvN7cU0FGapBPeItnvJCYA0YmGr01QItlGx9fU00fdbkNc_wVVZ6PiNL/s320/DSC03075.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431875012824070850" /></a><br />And the signature town square of the small Central American towns:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj44jkZ42utO2vRe2D_fY7QAu4cvF09h8JPrt1_TExFU0FxmOufbc0VgG-agkNbgH36L7-vN5IX4pE1_6ts-MHIt7htZeeveXCy0oBxNHNSQMGSK1PkK5iZgN4iTeq4Y0fX4oyw4sLY7jw4/s1600-h/DSC03044.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj44jkZ42utO2vRe2D_fY7QAu4cvF09h8JPrt1_TExFU0FxmOufbc0VgG-agkNbgH36L7-vN5IX4pE1_6ts-MHIt7htZeeveXCy0oBxNHNSQMGSK1PkK5iZgN4iTeq4Y0fX4oyw4sLY7jw4/s320/DSC03044.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431875156701692738" /></a><br />Granada is located on Lake Nicaragua and has an attractive lakefront promenade.<br /><br />A signature fountain:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFvY946V6lHDevTGrhwIOdjgaBFDAKpiTX_SOJ9SZGP2cV-iBvkXOWkAMqAnzt88K0jL1Ijpe4dMFmgwFVQ0CP2Cs0hVgQ9-uS5KUE-1YERxcan19U3RWjDNHr_XP8-W0RKxEc-cI2Q8XS/s1600-h/DSC03047.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFvY946V6lHDevTGrhwIOdjgaBFDAKpiTX_SOJ9SZGP2cV-iBvkXOWkAMqAnzt88K0jL1Ijpe4dMFmgwFVQ0CP2Cs0hVgQ9-uS5KUE-1YERxcan19U3RWjDNHr_XP8-W0RKxEc-cI2Q8XS/s320/DSC03047.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431875340133526898" /></a><br />Helge’s finds the perfect hotel for next year’s tour located on the square:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8jQYEoivETxOwp9xsipgOFEQ39uVqrZkzNBAi7OEkrhnSIpwnmAgVEnL-tCMozpn6DpAdencqjTJMva9QSdfAj_Cz38p0JEFFHvSLwbtGLlsVacd64YSE4UQTzNGvz-c10w1S0V00A4rC/s1600-h/DSC03041.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8jQYEoivETxOwp9xsipgOFEQ39uVqrZkzNBAi7OEkrhnSIpwnmAgVEnL-tCMozpn6DpAdencqjTJMva9QSdfAj_Cz38p0JEFFHvSLwbtGLlsVacd64YSE4UQTzNGvz-c10w1S0V00A4rC/s320/DSC03041.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431875499272600258" /></a><br />We spoke with some of the natives:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUCEnT_h9bbJ8r2XAZ9b67pHBlISqXJbDv1iN5hOJP6WCDICGMhYOEzL1C7bhvEP3bG9zDpDwpewovLEFCwUxO3exi9tT6Onl3-trHXZqVEfjDLUvyisLbKJkoFOqWYzGSmkoOBYSTUaiG/s1600-h/DSC03049.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUCEnT_h9bbJ8r2XAZ9b67pHBlISqXJbDv1iN5hOJP6WCDICGMhYOEzL1C7bhvEP3bG9zDpDwpewovLEFCwUxO3exi9tT6Onl3-trHXZqVEfjDLUvyisLbKJkoFOqWYzGSmkoOBYSTUaiG/s320/DSC03049.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431875605695959282" /></a><br />And Helge gave some riding lessons:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKZPos6L0IxhVhRbww1IAViepBw7XsyAMu4R3DUcyuohosQXsJK-AfKg93oD3b7DGxEfE068xz2AEP3c1Bo3aQU_DNCYTKG6_Zy_5Xt4wy3VhMM4ZQeDUFm2FX_fd3BMCSKiBfrokcxIAj/s1600-h/DSC03052.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKZPos6L0IxhVhRbww1IAViepBw7XsyAMu4R3DUcyuohosQXsJK-AfKg93oD3b7DGxEfE068xz2AEP3c1Bo3aQU_DNCYTKG6_Zy_5Xt4wy3VhMM4ZQeDUFm2FX_fd3BMCSKiBfrokcxIAj/s320/DSC03052.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431875721109267810" /></a><br />Some local ruins:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNNszYu2lCqOwAqjkxsLGRo-WO4jtUwHR7e4wu1knLqyotryQszLvYqap7jKBOJtJdst7_9XnG02VXAQb2Y5uqy7ng8_VRsK3AsBFQn-zlAcSuMMiMfLuU4nX0r9rfssW20kBaq-qJMc1f/s1600-h/DSC03077.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNNszYu2lCqOwAqjkxsLGRo-WO4jtUwHR7e4wu1knLqyotryQszLvYqap7jKBOJtJdst7_9XnG02VXAQb2Y5uqy7ng8_VRsK3AsBFQn-zlAcSuMMiMfLuU4nX0r9rfssW20kBaq-qJMc1f/s320/DSC03077.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431875824262123106" /></a><br />We passed by a windmill farm where a local contractor, with the help of some Australians, was installing eleven Indian wind turbines. At first they allowed us to stay and watch, but shortly thereafter asked us to leave and to not take pictures (not even from the road). The most interesting part of this was that the wind blowing off Lake Nicaragua was substantial – perhaps 20 mph. How they expected to control the hub with three huge blades radiating from it was beyond me - they had several cranes to do the work, but it still looked dicey.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd7CB5oXg1GrpRdCHBgJcgmsBgLahHmLjyVhIiPcJbYFnumEiAHBJGu0KN8cP3z00I2e86ZYpU1AXwPWkZTbvX5VGXYex_LBqzn-BvV3N-TUIlegSpSBXmKWoxZ6RSdfwa9MHHjRNUenCe/s1600-h/DSC03100.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd7CB5oXg1GrpRdCHBgJcgmsBgLahHmLjyVhIiPcJbYFnumEiAHBJGu0KN8cP3z00I2e86ZYpU1AXwPWkZTbvX5VGXYex_LBqzn-BvV3N-TUIlegSpSBXmKWoxZ6RSdfwa9MHHjRNUenCe/s320/DSC03100.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431876033255725554" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK29V2lhm89YvQxdraisPBaXQIeMLpJiXkkOTx2VefYPVwt9FRcKZGxZ9Vn38R6IEpvMT147KOpoXcJrYbQqXwC_an5d7UhNRLQrEX7WZwonIgDJ6RxI5GtK8PHQp69dbe6UMqo3LmYduX/s1600-h/DSC03097.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK29V2lhm89YvQxdraisPBaXQIeMLpJiXkkOTx2VefYPVwt9FRcKZGxZ9Vn38R6IEpvMT147KOpoXcJrYbQqXwC_an5d7UhNRLQrEX7WZwonIgDJ6RxI5GtK8PHQp69dbe6UMqo3LmYduX/s320/DSC03097.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431875962615302338" /></a><br />While we were examining the windmills, Vincent went on ahead. When he noticed we weren’t behind him, he turned around and headed back past the turbines some 30 miles before he realized that we were not to be found.<br /><br />We proceeded on to the Costa Rica border without Vincent and found an incredible mess. The crossing was completely crowded for two reasons: it was the weekend, and Costa Rica has been struggling with illegal workers from Nicaragua.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8n_kbS6VODHBrmJKxPfX06131uzwF9XyZDYlIyFM8xJGozjrr9L86GHUBdOhT4TuIfrAF1st4WtLppoIJAidybKyDr7v4evubGx7cXCiS2APmI1fhvX-4hqp5l6BVaUoXiayM5n8lWP0l/s1600-h/DSC03124.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8n_kbS6VODHBrmJKxPfX06131uzwF9XyZDYlIyFM8xJGozjrr9L86GHUBdOhT4TuIfrAF1st4WtLppoIJAidybKyDr7v4evubGx7cXCiS2APmI1fhvX-4hqp5l6BVaUoXiayM5n8lWP0l/s320/DSC03124.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431876215395789714" /></a><br />Waiting trucks and buses:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLIdwBI8YKqVpam1QzKQwZaucLAIntq2-33NzUOmXCNQ2oDGAhNkrhMA_Grzl9Ev3vXgzQFOXnLD0XoHlT7Dx3RvRufn4jEhpv6pCH_63s2QbVit76I9s4mro5GVuJtWiFtEUd24PeNWPa/s1600-h/DSC03136.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLIdwBI8YKqVpam1QzKQwZaucLAIntq2-33NzUOmXCNQ2oDGAhNkrhMA_Grzl9Ev3vXgzQFOXnLD0XoHlT7Dx3RvRufn4jEhpv6pCH_63s2QbVit76I9s4mro5GVuJtWiFtEUd24PeNWPa/s320/DSC03136.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431877655888819554" /></a><br />A hip couple:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiynqVoF766JkU_1AKWxbZAbhO4lwMVP9ZS66kv1qIOUwWIini2XNlgFpBvIqaSt5GrhiBWP9a2EtURw47z6LRuJpfdvdmto8_kvZH1vnU0xdPFQ0-Rk7L85iJXf2IkU6Edph4FINT_0C2j/s1600-h/DSC03128.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiynqVoF766JkU_1AKWxbZAbhO4lwMVP9ZS66kv1qIOUwWIini2XNlgFpBvIqaSt5GrhiBWP9a2EtURw47z6LRuJpfdvdmto8_kvZH1vnU0xdPFQ0-Rk7L85iJXf2IkU6Edph4FINT_0C2j/s320/DSC03128.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431877773022616370" /></a><br />Helge picked out what I thought to be a questionable “fixer” to lubricate and speed things along – a man with a gold chain and diamond stud. He reminded me too much of the guy in the Armani T-shirt who scammed us at the Guatemala border. But the guy turned out to be magic and swept us through the line in three hours. As we crossed the border, we saw a line of trucks extending for over 1.5 miles.<br /><br />A shot of the end of the line:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_C8OgwZ73LmNOxVtEBQw2XSZ4VI1yQ2mCt7bGUR3i5IgA8UzuticQVvtWefMbBtrViWAgtgSNho_PeTm7D_kj1-qeIHNqLPKgYuRc-TfuvvpEbBjNnauvDlB5BSkXP-wI7V5DeTwuxLCu/s1600-h/DSC03141.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_C8OgwZ73LmNOxVtEBQw2XSZ4VI1yQ2mCt7bGUR3i5IgA8UzuticQVvtWefMbBtrViWAgtgSNho_PeTm7D_kj1-qeIHNqLPKgYuRc-TfuvvpEbBjNnauvDlB5BSkXP-wI7V5DeTwuxLCu/s320/DSC03141.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431877918165592914" /></a><br />All of these drivers had to channel through one person behind a desk (who took the usual lunch and siesta breaks).<br /><br />As we drove into Costa Rica there was a definite uptick in the standard of living and road quality. We were stopped for our papers (probably to ensure we were not Nicaraguan migrants).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0gPE4gZdvl9wAo4fmc7mcu826ENDNPx4NOFtClHeUhmzxhKaJZHvSnwVHY_zCbt9RkxgJkekgk4P8pQiWy2g4kbHPUnv73LWD0H96VJipnKo-vS6JVlZ8wMJfWV9nNJo1LcoeSFUeFCcz/s1600-h/DSC03143.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0gPE4gZdvl9wAo4fmc7mcu826ENDNPx4NOFtClHeUhmzxhKaJZHvSnwVHY_zCbt9RkxgJkekgk4P8pQiWy2g4kbHPUnv73LWD0H96VJipnKo-vS6JVlZ8wMJfWV9nNJo1LcoeSFUeFCcz/s320/DSC03143.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431878050640968962" /></a><br />We traveled through some lush country…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBmNjYGLIhCdysoalZPXrUg5U0JnMPApZ91MxHFkq6-SYjqO7Hj4P-u7QrO97nT2X0EqFLcvbUQ56fEczd8T9SQZch2XKX_j21JiH76PJfHe2WWyPPy2jNdCEaNNHhehUaKnKwDcOzRVnY/s1600-h/DSC03147.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBmNjYGLIhCdysoalZPXrUg5U0JnMPApZ91MxHFkq6-SYjqO7Hj4P-u7QrO97nT2X0EqFLcvbUQ56fEczd8T9SQZch2XKX_j21JiH76PJfHe2WWyPPy2jNdCEaNNHhehUaKnKwDcOzRVnY/s320/DSC03147.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431878165170943330" /></a><br />And into rainforests…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIdvIiMb0EDiViF2vb9pxjgE7i-MTO-Uso3w_8Fo7yyJLDHeTYvAFT88EyYn9TNDSeJbgSKDR9OyrXxPYmVg5tnZXGbWYKM4eIXPHjg18hp7y33MxW2aOLCqzyBzuzIH_UrgaQke8TkkFF/s1600-h/DSC03156.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIdvIiMb0EDiViF2vb9pxjgE7i-MTO-Uso3w_8Fo7yyJLDHeTYvAFT88EyYn9TNDSeJbgSKDR9OyrXxPYmVg5tnZXGbWYKM4eIXPHjg18hp7y33MxW2aOLCqzyBzuzIH_UrgaQke8TkkFF/s320/DSC03156.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431878279656614866" /></a><br />To a long beautiful lake near the Arenal Volcano<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-5R-BfO9c7XW_5SXJZbpTqaQpV3XL5T5AUldAbTug9FziKI7V7aLm3jj2KHuFjvYH7_0Ddr5Az2sGiTFQvNGWMWgdXhaZVI2RnE0GYS0oX0kUXYprSCFrQOcqt1wdtE5z4D6PcCYeH-FX/s1600-h/DSC03151.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-5R-BfO9c7XW_5SXJZbpTqaQpV3XL5T5AUldAbTug9FziKI7V7aLm3jj2KHuFjvYH7_0Ddr5Az2sGiTFQvNGWMWgdXhaZVI2RnE0GYS0oX0kUXYprSCFrQOcqt1wdtE5z4D6PcCYeH-FX/s320/DSC03151.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431878415541274546" /></a><br />During our search for a place to stay, I made a broad U-turn and dumped my motorcycle in a ditch, leaving me with a swollen and bruised nose.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNRxx71Rek33n4X7uwr6qyv5mXqqF-TtzkD6YwkKnsQbGn2_cCl8BkSurfc-hKawbu_9mTAzYHflV_gygwXvMiIuwm82tljLQcnAzpVchjqDhj2PLg7KpjezT4nxEl57xDpSpSviDjvjKf/s1600-h/dans+nose.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNRxx71Rek33n4X7uwr6qyv5mXqqF-TtzkD6YwkKnsQbGn2_cCl8BkSurfc-hKawbu_9mTAzYHflV_gygwXvMiIuwm82tljLQcnAzpVchjqDhj2PLg7KpjezT4nxEl57xDpSpSviDjvjKf/s320/dans+nose.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431878573895629266" /></a><br />We selected a nice looking eco-lodge, the Arenal Lodge. Throughout the night we were serenaded by wonderfully exotic noises (mostly birds and insects) – thankfully, no howler monkeys.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl-IJWWaoD2h24ECRqzcd7EvpeMAeG615EletmEGgZYUPvewAhVOVMXDB5yCkwBjfGxKCzpKWPTrlPRQQsmSn1n-QFpJzuft8KGQIGzK5uugu-zvWMi5VIkjY2KdjSaAVLlpd6QpdQ-EMk/s1600-h/DSC03170.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl-IJWWaoD2h24ECRqzcd7EvpeMAeG615EletmEGgZYUPvewAhVOVMXDB5yCkwBjfGxKCzpKWPTrlPRQQsmSn1n-QFpJzuft8KGQIGzK5uugu-zvWMi5VIkjY2KdjSaAVLlpd6QpdQ-EMk/s320/DSC03170.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431878735285529250" /></a><br />The next morning (the 24th) we awoke to a rather foggy view of the smoky volcano…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJmOEUYHOWy59wcp1dw1L1zkLBDq0XNZDEu624gVYRNtfN7YiuezGNRQjrJ6X7H9FH4x9crE2J7qJVhXWqMrXoj17ZPKbQDQfCT0ymb3TeKFIIFFDIrbI2ALCBLsKh1LYFkUMk57CzvEDd/s1600-h/DSC03174.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJmOEUYHOWy59wcp1dw1L1zkLBDq0XNZDEu624gVYRNtfN7YiuezGNRQjrJ6X7H9FH4x9crE2J7qJVhXWqMrXoj17ZPKbQDQfCT0ymb3TeKFIIFFDIrbI2ALCBLsKh1LYFkUMk57CzvEDd/s320/DSC03174.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431878860416929698" /></a><br />And some rather exotic animals wandering near the lodge.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXC3rM3lzQerWJdz61CbA8xJmOQOTHzADNfT3U09lpwK-UeUULAJDsqdy61uZNfD8R7yzN4ShPlB_11vY94cK3ProL5z3M4_FxStpBhOSVgfOFPzKhzDVp2-JycwL1BpquRUfIfb7vCCY_/s1600-h/DSC03165.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXC3rM3lzQerWJdz61CbA8xJmOQOTHzADNfT3U09lpwK-UeUULAJDsqdy61uZNfD8R7yzN4ShPlB_11vY94cK3ProL5z3M4_FxStpBhOSVgfOFPzKhzDVp2-JycwL1BpquRUfIfb7vCCY_/s320/DSC03165.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431879016000724578" /></a><br />Later that day, we did some recon of the hotels in the area for next year’s trip – most of them nestled in the rainforest.<br /><br />We headed out through the rainforest with its long spindly trees that are bushy on the top—like Dr. Seuss drawings.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVclQZFb-n0Gx-n9twFuTw1gPLwsV8e4Lpp-6JjQ66r5HQWbXgYOKfvAKpfJ3z9LWl3XK4xh6veN1h7N9zkn0_N1Pwt6cfHCXssoSN8SS1C2YeFFGYbJfi9L3e8ZUpP9v6DILeCVF0eROX/s1600-h/DSC03186.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVclQZFb-n0Gx-n9twFuTw1gPLwsV8e4Lpp-6JjQ66r5HQWbXgYOKfvAKpfJ3z9LWl3XK4xh6veN1h7N9zkn0_N1Pwt6cfHCXssoSN8SS1C2YeFFGYbJfi9L3e8ZUpP9v6DILeCVF0eROX/s320/DSC03186.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431879148717553410" /></a><br />Our mission for the early afternoon was to climb the Poas Volcano and look inside its nearly mile-wide crater. What impressed us was the steepness of the gorges and the rugged terrain. It was red dirt with only a few rocks which made everything unstable. The loose soil made it easy for the river to carve out gorges that are hundreds of feet deep.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfBModRr-Jf-5ucJdnJO_d-aRYaZ84bPF6c6D8cH_w9d5-eETviyZCXUcxLtOLZ4pn5ZPPK5DAsuIrqgEOF-nCzh_3UZbbk3Gm5HIFkHN1V6qjTwac-JGbrNn23M0bAtqhwFs3vOXFPR3u/s1600-h/DSC03194.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfBModRr-Jf-5ucJdnJO_d-aRYaZ84bPF6c6D8cH_w9d5-eETviyZCXUcxLtOLZ4pn5ZPPK5DAsuIrqgEOF-nCzh_3UZbbk3Gm5HIFkHN1V6qjTwac-JGbrNn23M0bAtqhwFs3vOXFPR3u/s320/DSC03194.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431879438878681890" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjOhidEn9ow_mYsnHqREzfs69OlkDVMNnSeJnPpg1XWCc_gK21fkCA7C2wnd4z6T21iJbiAFgNroFryDx-qeFSPTqqYcRRDJs6WqrsrP-hQwgb_4wIuNId6-69-9ubde4AG7b36QY-n7Lu/s1600-h/DSC03197.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjOhidEn9ow_mYsnHqREzfs69OlkDVMNnSeJnPpg1XWCc_gK21fkCA7C2wnd4z6T21iJbiAFgNroFryDx-qeFSPTqqYcRRDJs6WqrsrP-hQwgb_4wIuNId6-69-9ubde4AG7b36QY-n7Lu/s320/DSC03197.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431879391036821746" /></a><br />We headed up a craggy road, washed out in spots – very muddy and easy to slip. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeqBfnD479-NsVvR4-fk163dbaRMOZwruhYb6k0RjkdmkdTDJCAp7OaP3Fm4CzkNL_lpkqH3UKET2XoxLJqsmBCSJXS4ksxq1ACMc_ddzxhtP5bwCkYHjMebwV_Tu0HXwfNoDQjvhWExWV/s1600-h/DSC03204.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeqBfnD479-NsVvR4-fk163dbaRMOZwruhYb6k0RjkdmkdTDJCAp7OaP3Fm4CzkNL_lpkqH3UKET2XoxLJqsmBCSJXS4ksxq1ACMc_ddzxhtP5bwCkYHjMebwV_Tu0HXwfNoDQjvhWExWV/s320/DSC03204.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431879629599698898" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyl_xH42h1i9x1R_4NNy9QOhOXOIE99AnaicH04KjgkK68-zqRAicp-mGIqv3g8dmCyUBl99FZnYV-ZlfPZk0_KH6-5tkLOAgTiApO2Xo-a1ZkOHYvpggw8FK4R1UDbYjqkMR2Hshu3ElA/s1600-h/DSC03220.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyl_xH42h1i9x1R_4NNy9QOhOXOIE99AnaicH04KjgkK68-zqRAicp-mGIqv3g8dmCyUBl99FZnYV-ZlfPZk0_KH6-5tkLOAgTiApO2Xo-a1ZkOHYvpggw8FK4R1UDbYjqkMR2Hshu3ElA/s320/DSC03220.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431879576882384258" /></a><br />We were met with challenging river crossings…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht77EyIT1kwpxX8a8gJjb01vxkwjXhx954dWRYKFDmCAoJsaX-WokaqTGQUa987JCIkCX6x7OpZIRD3EXeeUSqQ4gnc6GWIyy6fSKMGEgt6jTK0nDtHRv_8jAclvt1tvmCCjeSoJGXEXwo/s1600-h/DSC03227.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht77EyIT1kwpxX8a8gJjb01vxkwjXhx954dWRYKFDmCAoJsaX-WokaqTGQUa987JCIkCX6x7OpZIRD3EXeeUSqQ4gnc6GWIyy6fSKMGEgt6jTK0nDtHRv_8jAclvt1tvmCCjeSoJGXEXwo/s320/DSC03227.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431879752846154834" /></a><br />Which we mastered by the end of the day<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj__PLE-qETveia0qTsSnJtJUDqi-g7U7q-ubxBOuVSNDWdSw5EDdKgfeXFaocZ-pI_xBjydW7oRJs4QEck5PIzNcD7uzy_rzThD2x2Y6ByarieRibDFoLCeg-nEPN87VjTAnMG6xaCBeLX/s1600-h/DSC03250.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj__PLE-qETveia0qTsSnJtJUDqi-g7U7q-ubxBOuVSNDWdSw5EDdKgfeXFaocZ-pI_xBjydW7oRJs4QEck5PIzNcD7uzy_rzThD2x2Y6ByarieRibDFoLCeg-nEPN87VjTAnMG6xaCBeLX/s320/DSC03250.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431879861643017442" /></a><br />When we reached the rim of the crater, it was covered in fog.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwXH6L6baJnzFl2vT0cHqioXI4AfF1OfNdpoX_mph-FVSkEHNwcEvgObBckYBg4y42jgVlJ8jHIZxXOUnXXiLurbZoeapzVZcvsUPm1pXIYeSgmPZ35dN-TZb-w3rdaJmOTprxN57Y7ws1/s1600-h/DSC03263.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwXH6L6baJnzFl2vT0cHqioXI4AfF1OfNdpoX_mph-FVSkEHNwcEvgObBckYBg4y42jgVlJ8jHIZxXOUnXXiLurbZoeapzVZcvsUPm1pXIYeSgmPZ35dN-TZb-w3rdaJmOTprxN57Y7ws1/s320/DSC03263.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431879979286400690" /></a><br />After our exciting volcano ride, we headed across Costa Rica, almost to the Caribbean coast, and arrived after dark to our hotel. The hotel turned out to be a very pleasant casino (purchased by an American). <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5r7oPbu7AKbfOOoLxpd65T9TSp0FijotlOJfl9ihYitbrXvhCIR_-NEjY1uVlA5bW-bi1VjmzSvx6wTGUHya8Jsi1rq_RdMDiNx6vEkR4JpPs5eWwCZpq9Nquolo6FKHYwb5C9P9VQV1X/s1600-h/3+last+night+in+Costa+Rica.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5r7oPbu7AKbfOOoLxpd65T9TSp0FijotlOJfl9ihYitbrXvhCIR_-NEjY1uVlA5bW-bi1VjmzSvx6wTGUHya8Jsi1rq_RdMDiNx6vEkR4JpPs5eWwCZpq9Nquolo6FKHYwb5C9P9VQV1X/s320/3+last+night+in+Costa+Rica.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431880097129733330" /></a><br />The next morning (the 25th), we finished the ride to the Caribbean, crossing through very lush country and roads cut deeply into mountains with steep terraced walls of red dirt. It’s surprising that they don’t have more landslides during the rainy season – vegetation plays a large role in keeping the terraces from sliding. We drove along the beautiful Caribbean beaches south of Puerto Limon, and then headed back towards the Pacific coast. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkbla2_FAtGitWSG_bLSf_kXuFxIUruU_BhMIRi1bvO3ErCrSjXggL6i_aUeMxLYGyB7WN8NjhQLTb2-gvWQDFIP7VsbZVTGwtwSxiIPFVXu2ZLdf4ju1W_OQpkQ3gxDiwdLICVHu3OJc4/s1600-h/beach+2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkbla2_FAtGitWSG_bLSf_kXuFxIUruU_BhMIRi1bvO3ErCrSjXggL6i_aUeMxLYGyB7WN8NjhQLTb2-gvWQDFIP7VsbZVTGwtwSxiIPFVXu2ZLdf4ju1W_OQpkQ3gxDiwdLICVHu3OJc4/s320/beach+2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431880276245274658" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNR0KSw-DjAYdr79iqe9g4ZTxt3lB8Aks88Y1tKKAi_0arh1E1MbIgN4N7yv0sJWa_pbflkQfg3dTIvbM2Of5UprpEVUNEXkW465_Ax_MHWrr7SBBa_zmGmCL94qWHfJkntWzh3QoPxZpE/s1600-h/Beach+1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNR0KSw-DjAYdr79iqe9g4ZTxt3lB8Aks88Y1tKKAi_0arh1E1MbIgN4N7yv0sJWa_pbflkQfg3dTIvbM2Of5UprpEVUNEXkW465_Ax_MHWrr7SBBa_zmGmCL94qWHfJkntWzh3QoPxZpE/s320/Beach+1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431880220332039250" /></a><br />We arrived at the Panama border and encountered a fair amount of red tape and negative attitudes towards tourists. The major problem was importing the motorcycles – it took several hours. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNq4MA-bXLgPishcq173DwMeqGC4RgAjB7wwRnUsSdB92wklV_5UFjQcBhIzpiGAmdIF5EJRJESQOtQstd4-f5X7hx7oK14Z5aUQQrhihj5ga941KJ3ydGo5BDBMKqME7ukDaNBGnzClS_/s1600-h/5+Costa+Rica+Panama+border.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNq4MA-bXLgPishcq173DwMeqGC4RgAjB7wwRnUsSdB92wklV_5UFjQcBhIzpiGAmdIF5EJRJESQOtQstd4-f5X7hx7oK14Z5aUQQrhihj5ga941KJ3ydGo5BDBMKqME7ukDaNBGnzClS_/s320/5+Costa+Rica+Panama+border.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431880424327332338" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDhGO_1uDhRBU4Q9ZXyHFtu7JGOlev_xxjamJnbAM_F8culDn3jsdjGpunPQqGs7SE0BwhsOz3NHqHh_lODmuppJnO7DojCXF-Q9ef3-Nwyc8s8n2JtzfwAaeoEfgcssPXKRmD50iKU_NF/s1600-h/6+on+to+Panama.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDhGO_1uDhRBU4Q9ZXyHFtu7JGOlev_xxjamJnbAM_F8culDn3jsdjGpunPQqGs7SE0BwhsOz3NHqHh_lODmuppJnO7DojCXF-Q9ef3-Nwyc8s8n2JtzfwAaeoEfgcssPXKRmD50iKU_NF/s320/6+on+to+Panama.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431880524404736370" /></a><br />We crossed into Panama and shortly came upon a railroad bridge that had been converted into a one-lane automobile bridge – the tracks ran down the middle. We had two choices – ride in the middle of the tracks or the side of the tracks. Vince made the right decision – riding down the center of the tracks bumping along as he hit each tie. The rest of us took the side route which was more treacherous – the river on one side and a gap between the tracks on the other side.<br /><br />That evening we stayed in the city of David near the Pacific coast in Panama. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg34ju5iB_QI463pflX6uPr-5LeiFTw1A7UXM8GlmgDSrxHogeKNYqSm1zwLjJgrHAz_9H9Vbqtj023cddqpSkuhv6lZRWvsmm4bl1ntD_HSiOloOfSxxJqXChDZg8Drzq_fqxlypgyH8pL/s1600-h/David.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg34ju5iB_QI463pflX6uPr-5LeiFTw1A7UXM8GlmgDSrxHogeKNYqSm1zwLjJgrHAz_9H9Vbqtj023cddqpSkuhv6lZRWvsmm4bl1ntD_HSiOloOfSxxJqXChDZg8Drzq_fqxlypgyH8pL/s320/David.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431880690387048738" /></a><br />The next morning (the 26th), we drove the entire distance to Panama City—approximately 300 miles. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnQQ8R-MlRdTSolcK8gkQXPHqARowAYdyqU7TbfR3eEviFWE0hrPg-2HoUVQFcuG-Gh49YxDi_YZXC1Oog77rheNX6R4PUqNwqeS_dJDQEWMdebKSAamdNBKf-_YVm0jretq2CJVhfMLmX/s1600-h/7+onto+panama.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnQQ8R-MlRdTSolcK8gkQXPHqARowAYdyqU7TbfR3eEviFWE0hrPg-2HoUVQFcuG-Gh49YxDi_YZXC1Oog77rheNX6R4PUqNwqeS_dJDQEWMdebKSAamdNBKf-_YVm0jretq2CJVhfMLmX/s320/7+onto+panama.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431880859318940338" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6OL1LiL1MilMoKOL2AuLhWjonauf2s72AGw3awuOH71WdnPsrE512pZ02uCijrmUQVb556_2jfnWzlH-1yGZmZ8kzeQnxRU1gOQ6ZaWMAeSDZZewc9hnupSPDiRWRVrq2WdjBDNzIXTBt/s1600-h/8+onto+Panama.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6OL1LiL1MilMoKOL2AuLhWjonauf2s72AGw3awuOH71WdnPsrE512pZ02uCijrmUQVb556_2jfnWzlH-1yGZmZ8kzeQnxRU1gOQ6ZaWMAeSDZZewc9hnupSPDiRWRVrq2WdjBDNzIXTBt/s320/8+onto+Panama.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431880810435423378" /></a><br />As we climbed into the mountains, the fog closed in, and Vince, who was leading, decided to stay behind a mini-bus. We crawled along at 30 mph through steep inclines, missing the fantastic view that the stark, steep, lush topography offered. We passed over the Pacific side of the Isthmus on a high level bridge and saw the waiting ships below.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAy-TQxJyxxL9QQXkgXbvnp1vPqeUlVhyphenhyphen_g32VVmRyN1QTLW8oyNUaKGADQQnnreo5dMlgeXfdsoVF4GSvnTybGkAsPbwyZ9OMEDn7t0My1CWB23rXbXVl4Hs2nAqtw54ljisGO8WpAnlr/s1600-h/P1260530.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAy-TQxJyxxL9QQXkgXbvnp1vPqeUlVhyphenhyphen_g32VVmRyN1QTLW8oyNUaKGADQQnnreo5dMlgeXfdsoVF4GSvnTybGkAsPbwyZ9OMEDn7t0My1CWB23rXbXVl4Hs2nAqtw54ljisGO8WpAnlr/s320/P1260530.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434035863070914722" /></a><br />As Panama City came into view from a distance, I was flabbergasted by its size and its expanse of huge high rises. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQJ0-k2j_qJNVeDy0DHn0ZrUMsI9RbwmCtpICtdvUuWXTk6nznGNau_1-fSKrHdA1uW1qOzaV-ojdviqXXCs-H8_yABi5D7fYmhyphenhyphenDCwLYL87-Gh9Zc-5-ARVqp88h9FTXfuXmqlizr14Bn/s1600-h/P1260539.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQJ0-k2j_qJNVeDy0DHn0ZrUMsI9RbwmCtpICtdvUuWXTk6nznGNau_1-fSKrHdA1uW1qOzaV-ojdviqXXCs-H8_yABi5D7fYmhyphenhyphenDCwLYL87-Gh9Zc-5-ARVqp88h9FTXfuXmqlizr14Bn/s320/P1260539.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434036099760941218" /></a><br />Tomorrow, we will pack the bikes for their airplane ride to Colombia, where they will be serviced at a BMW shop in Bogota. We will fly over separately from the bikes on the 28th. <br /><br />We will not be going through the Darien Gap—the last time Helge rode through the Gap, it took him twenty days to cross eighty miles. He and his friend hacked away at a footpath to widen it enough for the bikes to pass, and one night Helge picked 150 ticks off his friend. Needless to say, it wasn’t hard to convince us to bypass that route. <br /><br />We are now through the first third of the trip, and we are having a spectacular time.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-21061300438627703812010-01-23T05:21:00.000-08:002010-01-23T05:41:21.588-08:00Day 16-17 – January 20 & 21<em><strong>La Antigua, Guatemala to Santa Rosa, Honduras to Tegucigalpa, Honduras</strong></em><br />We got an early start out of Antigua, leaving our lavish hotel behind us as we rode down nearly-deserted cobblestone streets.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBRNQlV0HdmWOKRBBCzVtcOj9DVnTLWAqK5sieg50POhtuGQVSnv9AJEohpK5UuiLrsZo_9dqmeQsapjEr6MbUzAm9a2IIOiDmOgZeyUm0rkhYIQn4mC6CrvxN8muyIPpidhSbXJvUPMCX/s1600-h/DSC02913.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBRNQlV0HdmWOKRBBCzVtcOj9DVnTLWAqK5sieg50POhtuGQVSnv9AJEohpK5UuiLrsZo_9dqmeQsapjEr6MbUzAm9a2IIOiDmOgZeyUm0rkhYIQn4mC6CrvxN8muyIPpidhSbXJvUPMCX/s320/DSC02913.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429925905356596802" /></a><br />As we climbed into the mountains, we could see the clouds below us.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG4wRNQDVJiCuRBBRbfX3TzLMYGbc22Pyb-ykeGdVhGd-QDYeQhvdp_lBAZeuj0aNr0i1h-aTj5Xy1yEm5p5-DzhoXLSE_F7P9UiNIBfgD39l5XJ1x-sMsZJnyg_Hso7UHWsAb5Ly6G9E3/s1600-h/DSC02914.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG4wRNQDVJiCuRBBRbfX3TzLMYGbc22Pyb-ykeGdVhGd-QDYeQhvdp_lBAZeuj0aNr0i1h-aTj5Xy1yEm5p5-DzhoXLSE_F7P9UiNIBfgD39l5XJ1x-sMsZJnyg_Hso7UHWsAb5Ly6G9E3/s320/DSC02914.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429925758730763186" /></a><br />We got a good view from above of some of the precarious Guatemalan residential developments – houses built out of brittle masonry materials on steep inclines – not particularly resistant to earthquakes. They will all fall into the ravine below when the next big one comes (like occurred in Haiti).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF98w3FSySTJf7gG27h0irRdguM_ZTvhQRue6-uEhWkRjjoFER3GRBusPQEAaQOHJDGnNVijECTN9mxcZdFzBtYmI2XNQmIsZuiJE6nl1Tmb3cT5TjLjy0_BHpFHi_E51BCqcv5vpewO0z/s1600-h/DSC02918.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF98w3FSySTJf7gG27h0irRdguM_ZTvhQRue6-uEhWkRjjoFER3GRBusPQEAaQOHJDGnNVijECTN9mxcZdFzBtYmI2XNQmIsZuiJE6nl1Tmb3cT5TjLjy0_BHpFHi_E51BCqcv5vpewO0z/s320/DSC02918.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429926049465477346" /></a><br />This Guatemalan police car has the capacity to scold, but not to chase.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtFCFDkXAjwVP5MWDI4npcJMT5vBapgDvDjxaq-W0tkJ8hgopIb3bkplCS88GBzUDHx_aMPDrDlM0u-23GW0UMVdQI4jw8Mqp7arNcB0xsiWsQKr0YNQcNH_jc8-4rY55SHtYCFbtCMj7P/s1600-h/DSC02921.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtFCFDkXAjwVP5MWDI4npcJMT5vBapgDvDjxaq-W0tkJ8hgopIb3bkplCS88GBzUDHx_aMPDrDlM0u-23GW0UMVdQI4jw8Mqp7arNcB0xsiWsQKr0YNQcNH_jc8-4rY55SHtYCFbtCMj7P/s320/DSC02921.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429926201600852274" /></a><br />Here’s a motorbike whose panniers make ours look shy and diminutive. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi44PFqSfAX6qweB6hDQUQqq8LaDTpmay5cTNGOb3Ek8yA4ozgjEkV8jtaAgLqxgUO8YhefCytSKegSBP-YgrNizj9qmggFzWIiHX6Skp-SudJyeSRJrUScyoghfbCgfMRctfrG04r-JEyl/s1600-h/DSC02922.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi44PFqSfAX6qweB6hDQUQqq8LaDTpmay5cTNGOb3Ek8yA4ozgjEkV8jtaAgLqxgUO8YhefCytSKegSBP-YgrNizj9qmggFzWIiHX6Skp-SudJyeSRJrUScyoghfbCgfMRctfrG04r-JEyl/s320/DSC02922.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429926325373282786" /></a><br />We were very surprised at how easy it was for us to cross the border into Honduras, but the crossing didn’t look to be ideal for everyone. Here are a couple of truck drivers who rigged their hammocks for their wait at the border.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv_i0gfpTGS2sJalFWHZG9zhS7yXeIyS_yIJ2LmGbQ9acAGyPpOSludYJp68BaDQqc5be-1m8BaQlDo1OlT3ag1qtwxAdH5Gb4tS-dg7V5sgegnt3om_JyKipR2Lvx0ai5_yMSnODaQkl0/s1600-h/P1200459.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv_i0gfpTGS2sJalFWHZG9zhS7yXeIyS_yIJ2LmGbQ9acAGyPpOSludYJp68BaDQqc5be-1m8BaQlDo1OlT3ag1qtwxAdH5Gb4tS-dg7V5sgegnt3om_JyKipR2Lvx0ai5_yMSnODaQkl0/s320/P1200459.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429926473650194946" /></a><br />There were immediate differences upon leaving Guatemala and entering Honduras. Honduras is definitely a step down in prosperity.<br /><br />We’ve seen a decline in transportation options as we travel farther from Mexico: In Mexico there were some very run down cars, in Guatemala there were fewer cars and more motorbikes and in Honduras there were mainly horses and wagons led by oxen.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLaf3toPovhdXt5TGGzmRWFG_aYFmRa9lai38T0zHWA7MHcM2mIMZlzY6PPbSUXxyYUgxISwXspqoUlqlOwRqlhlmXM08v5uugid9WL-bCUGMDnTShD1RGRrkABnHVy7pOnvIdNV5Kdv_L/s1600-h/P1210488.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLaf3toPovhdXt5TGGzmRWFG_aYFmRa9lai38T0zHWA7MHcM2mIMZlzY6PPbSUXxyYUgxISwXspqoUlqlOwRqlhlmXM08v5uugid9WL-bCUGMDnTShD1RGRrkABnHVy7pOnvIdNV5Kdv_L/s320/P1210488.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429926904981652018" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE1s3Mx0xarG2d8GID25M3AcJOc4aHD5xaB4F4n9b4hY-PdacdbZcz9RRzHCowL8ttzpkPrq6XNSINdFNJMRtbyzB3YV10lsS_wJOI_RlS9XywG5rAi9LUdUgAztcCjoo_bOvXKVhmaymA/s1600-h/P1210481.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE1s3Mx0xarG2d8GID25M3AcJOc4aHD5xaB4F4n9b4hY-PdacdbZcz9RRzHCowL8ttzpkPrq6XNSINdFNJMRtbyzB3YV10lsS_wJOI_RlS9XywG5rAi9LUdUgAztcCjoo_bOvXKVhmaymA/s320/P1210481.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429926845469817154" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF-el5-GS_pcwuP0TPcEyneXT_gxkA42XU3ycdnFP1W5yHXMUUVDpM8rHtutzpzkk7YYdmtEkejO3E47C5MpSKxwiugTaCIqUskipfSgELNKJdLVzMDq20CK-wnMjN_hxZ-1O0BtM2fPNl/s1600-h/P1210478.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF-el5-GS_pcwuP0TPcEyneXT_gxkA42XU3ycdnFP1W5yHXMUUVDpM8rHtutzpzkk7YYdmtEkejO3E47C5MpSKxwiugTaCIqUskipfSgELNKJdLVzMDq20CK-wnMjN_hxZ-1O0BtM2fPNl/s320/P1210478.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429926791223858226" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh04gtqbsDMWLvzfkam4mnTm15x1WIMd4oNvKmZsFRj2OBuJFJISmBqBZTfhjl40_ATT9w8z555lBcaTnq5469URh5RragIT2umN6lz-KPxtMeJBnwnXcPQqOgsb7tPaaB87WHIJDUSLRHc/s1600-h/P1210479.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh04gtqbsDMWLvzfkam4mnTm15x1WIMd4oNvKmZsFRj2OBuJFJISmBqBZTfhjl40_ATT9w8z555lBcaTnq5469URh5RragIT2umN6lz-KPxtMeJBnwnXcPQqOgsb7tPaaB87WHIJDUSLRHc/s320/P1210479.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429926735785607474" /></a><br />Guatemala has approximately twice the public revenue of Honduras - $5 billion versus $2.6 billion and Guatemala has a population of 13 million versus 8 million in Honduras. They are both about the same size – approximately the size of Tennessee. As we will find out later, Nicaragua has even greater poverty than Honduras.<br /><br />Sanitary conditions were a notch down from Guatemala – how would you like to drink this potion offered by this street vendor in a plastic bag – who knows what was in it before? Helge looks like he’s considering it for a moment.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge8bmKoieCnKI6tMUG4-118w6MQwZZFQWIgNyJO0thToJUoVWRDsIYhqDIiUvdbu9ejCl1xtcEJci-zrt_Pd4zFpdoInrVYqhFmUuWNFTig8zTnwAqyVRAFtuMTE3GE3xNdZLmfLhnIweb/s1600-h/P1180456.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge8bmKoieCnKI6tMUG4-118w6MQwZZFQWIgNyJO0thToJUoVWRDsIYhqDIiUvdbu9ejCl1xtcEJci-zrt_Pd4zFpdoInrVYqhFmUuWNFTig8zTnwAqyVRAFtuMTE3GE3xNdZLmfLhnIweb/s320/P1180456.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429927090645315186" /></a><br />We were short of time after clearing the border and did not have the time to visit the Copan Mayan ruins. We were in fact in such a rush to reach Santa Rosa that we did not even stop for lunch – I missed our usual luncheon talks which cover subjects such as:<br /><em>Women</em> – Helge’s wife, Karen, who planted a lipstick kiss on his rearview mirror very precisely positioned to not obstruct the lane of traffic.<br /><em>Technology</em> – The group was prodding me into getting an iPhone rather than the TMobile for international travel, allowing me to step into the world of modern information systems. But there’s a hitch - they explained that an iPhone is just the opposite of a woman – very complicated in the beginning but after getting to know it and getting used to it, it’s much easier and sheer delight.<br /><em>Work ethics and rewards </em>– A type-A business mogul is talking to a Mexican fisherman: <br /><em>Investment banker:</em> “My gosh, you caught ten fish in an hour – what will you do with them?” <br /><em>Fisherman:</em> “My family and I will eat some and we’ll give the rest to the neighbors.” <br /><em>Investment banker:</em> “If you fish longer you could get more and then sell them. You could then purchase another boat and hire people to catch more fish and sell them outside your neighborhood, get more boats and get more money.” <em>Fisherman:</em> “What would I do with the money?” <br /><em>Investment banker:</em> “You would have more leisure time to relax and sun yourself on the beach.” <br /><em>Fisherman:</em> “That’s what I do now.”<br /><br />The remainder of the day was spent on beautiful roads winding through habitats that varied from lush and tropical to rugged and mountainous.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOpQn924TH217dibiUfXXaM8E7u4JVJlIt_-LwNf6B9Y2womE1BLKw4IbT6MEIbCUZqmePtkZZLPylM-OEHk_gXN70-Uw7hKA1k0lZ-KaKYQMxBRKd9tCI9d84TEH8oRy09hllSypuINn5/s1600-h/DSC02926.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOpQn924TH217dibiUfXXaM8E7u4JVJlIt_-LwNf6B9Y2womE1BLKw4IbT6MEIbCUZqmePtkZZLPylM-OEHk_gXN70-Uw7hKA1k0lZ-KaKYQMxBRKd9tCI9d84TEH8oRy09hllSypuINn5/s320/DSC02926.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429927393443476706" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyFqSSq2kjCkxPEevryzIRTowbPx3ZR28F3W4o9gJ00rwPmKoF_dEpKvC6bfnyGJX9YivpC0BsNg9b0PHJdw6fDQcs1_70vTyVQr6glO_Hcmz9wLPpQIh0FuI19v_G6_Vj2kV0gjqPGKjC/s1600-h/DSC02925.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyFqSSq2kjCkxPEevryzIRTowbPx3ZR28F3W4o9gJ00rwPmKoF_dEpKvC6bfnyGJX9YivpC0BsNg9b0PHJdw6fDQcs1_70vTyVQr6glO_Hcmz9wLPpQIh0FuI19v_G6_Vj2kV0gjqPGKjC/s320/DSC02925.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429927277347435906" /></a><br />In both Guatemala and Honduras, we saw babies everywhere…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGpWEQ7rAyfyyjzZFkYRk_eimwc7TG0lS7FAbeOagQGZUDxdkKcAC1yVKv9EhLnP809G0HJd55Pui6tYrHGxHQF1bePKltH-XfWq6kGGn_Yx2SB3PM62HAh8nyopZmDd0L9PoGnHQbrUNE/s1600-h/P1210495.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGpWEQ7rAyfyyjzZFkYRk_eimwc7TG0lS7FAbeOagQGZUDxdkKcAC1yVKv9EhLnP809G0HJd55Pui6tYrHGxHQF1bePKltH-XfWq6kGGn_Yx2SB3PM62HAh8nyopZmDd0L9PoGnHQbrUNE/s320/P1210495.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429927572547537954" /></a><br />And lots of young children<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnI77fMUKkpSL_Xfbq9WhBzv60n9RBFOf6TCVG4TRo7Kys4f1iGBkIEy30B3_uXo87oCZBUzEzApcKoOFxDtTp2hmAUeETmZC-en2QBPndlt9dzWqeo7g0fdsBgCe78WnE-3ecBacB65uu/s1600-h/P1210486.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnI77fMUKkpSL_Xfbq9WhBzv60n9RBFOf6TCVG4TRo7Kys4f1iGBkIEy30B3_uXo87oCZBUzEzApcKoOFxDtTp2hmAUeETmZC-en2QBPndlt9dzWqeo7g0fdsBgCe78WnE-3ecBacB65uu/s320/P1210486.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429927725632882514" /></a><br />The statistics bear this out – in both Guatemala and Honduras about 40% of the population is 14 years and younger, and the median age of both countries is between 19 and 20. The birthrate for both is approximately 27 per thousand per year (versus 20 in Mexico) – these guys are even friendlier than Mexicans!<br /><br />We arrived late in Santa Rosa, Honduras and had to settle for a fleabag hotel. Not the hotel Helge will use on next year’s GlobeRiders adventure – after all, this is what reconnoitering is all about. The towels had the loft of a handkerchief, the bathrooms were designed for midgets, and upon stepping into the shower, mysterious water oozed out from the cracks in the tub. This was a big switch from our lodging in Antigua.<br /><br />The next morning, we were packed and down for breakfast by 6:30 a.m. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWoaFw8Oot0CCkQj-utyLDpjH_TGEpTgL3oGYbHoQD8ipB4JyBIFki-UOf-LasSBGvZJ-hhZeiFagTDdcTW6IIQNbbxB4C1-JCrB71fkd-eFCpO7mlRaeKjDhB4wA6b1iMAF8HWBySBHBv/s1600-h/DSC02932.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWoaFw8Oot0CCkQj-utyLDpjH_TGEpTgL3oGYbHoQD8ipB4JyBIFki-UOf-LasSBGvZJ-hhZeiFagTDdcTW6IIQNbbxB4C1-JCrB71fkd-eFCpO7mlRaeKjDhB4wA6b1iMAF8HWBySBHBv/s320/DSC02932.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429927856955316690" /></a><br />We headed up out of the valley for Tegucigalpa, Honduras…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyUXl2v_uGQLNRyVd-XQX93JbyYxWHVRaskCUQrmMVfqyRlAMAijK_ozFkp2WQafTZPCxIiPR2pAMwNaUIawbBERB2SdFRh2pFGnm_rHW4STB5sqFWvMgD5BuQ2YJ3y0ZtXqXrjaAXM1Pp/s1600-h/P1210468.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyUXl2v_uGQLNRyVd-XQX93JbyYxWHVRaskCUQrmMVfqyRlAMAijK_ozFkp2WQafTZPCxIiPR2pAMwNaUIawbBERB2SdFRh2pFGnm_rHW4STB5sqFWvMgD5BuQ2YJ3y0ZtXqXrjaAXM1Pp/s320/P1210468.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429928006924992594" /></a><br />And for the first time were asked for our papers. The officers were gruff at first, but we soon became buddies. They were even willing to pose for pictures (the lady was the boss).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmDfjBJhN80RkZkBnhF1m_pQysu0Vod5AOq2v6t20EAfaPBrp17zFxJX0CeQcI86Ipzd9ILvkix-ye2LoeoOTyIjyzuaP5XJ0Np79n8mZKNhxiCBvu9f0AVC8UAqdX3P_atQ5hjjQtCgg3/s1600-h/P1210492.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmDfjBJhN80RkZkBnhF1m_pQysu0Vod5AOq2v6t20EAfaPBrp17zFxJX0CeQcI86Ipzd9ILvkix-ye2LoeoOTyIjyzuaP5XJ0Np79n8mZKNhxiCBvu9f0AVC8UAqdX3P_atQ5hjjQtCgg3/s320/P1210492.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429928155447331042" /></a><br />We visited a fabulous farmers’ market where you can buy fruit from everywhere (including apples from the state of Washington). <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQHYMJENjrGvrUCJyo8Bw1E8w4zHBWZuh9LjkBAUWzDwz1_7OlMrmsWvxggKODCWC4Ej6JMz4fQetLniqJZSefnSLhOYA2n2SFw8ACW7WZ08Hyp577exrIVXzptQPHFPjk49OMYG_Q0iC1/s1600-h/DSC02934.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQHYMJENjrGvrUCJyo8Bw1E8w4zHBWZuh9LjkBAUWzDwz1_7OlMrmsWvxggKODCWC4Ej6JMz4fQetLniqJZSefnSLhOYA2n2SFw8ACW7WZ08Hyp577exrIVXzptQPHFPjk49OMYG_Q0iC1/s320/DSC02934.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429928293073921778" /></a><br />Apples are out of season here now, but when Honduras apples are in season, they will be half the price of Washington apples.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFbMLddHnyVj88R0HooMLGncnXLk80USc3IvIidFgdQhSxEjXjjR9HSZjCTXtNsO02NmXwqc7OnYnwuvpGvIWc1eW8IxICRrCejpN16WCZ7tiJGmonIaXMeOxEYcSMH4J6udaLeyzDfpPN/s1600-h/P1210503.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFbMLddHnyVj88R0HooMLGncnXLk80USc3IvIidFgdQhSxEjXjjR9HSZjCTXtNsO02NmXwqc7OnYnwuvpGvIWc1eW8IxICRrCejpN16WCZ7tiJGmonIaXMeOxEYcSMH4J6udaLeyzDfpPN/s320/P1210503.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429928557413737586" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGV9tItcbbw73EnKaQn5FEKB5_gbc5fFE6xm2otH2renpUOhZamLndUZE72dQQoIDpH2z3AVcfzEGNwwZqUqr1dKNexlyny8Fl8D4VvYgTXUYWvtMzDgEMrFyYE2leJopoatgSkwpCPu3b/s1600-h/P1210502.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGV9tItcbbw73EnKaQn5FEKB5_gbc5fFE6xm2otH2renpUOhZamLndUZE72dQQoIDpH2z3AVcfzEGNwwZqUqr1dKNexlyny8Fl8D4VvYgTXUYWvtMzDgEMrFyYE2leJopoatgSkwpCPu3b/s320/P1210502.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429928497912901266" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc-C5imS5q-LczH_P3oOGRGVChNZgfeOTOtBM-lta7flyRV7ba6lFKL2wPWvquBXLPk0rzeiU1_a7sorGXVxDunLbZ5DOKuo90RC2itz8-OYZjDyK2Zjuy9k3De1MU2qYlk_usvzUf0I_E/s1600-h/P1210501.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc-C5imS5q-LczH_P3oOGRGVChNZgfeOTOtBM-lta7flyRV7ba6lFKL2wPWvquBXLPk0rzeiU1_a7sorGXVxDunLbZ5DOKuo90RC2itz8-OYZjDyK2Zjuy9k3De1MU2qYlk_usvzUf0I_E/s320/P1210501.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429928438553255810" /></a><br />The market town was very active and crowded. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIA1hFh9P3GpwpT8v7dKw7clsxCXz4kNK9iYLvch02D1ecIb-gLj1IXI3Y9-9OGwWFyadUm4LuG8_pRCfzj2Tv2mbOAlGxPN4L_kWQr-xX6lwxILjig-Fh_Oa2f0oUj-cvpQq256dA3Y95/s1600-h/DSC02936.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIA1hFh9P3GpwpT8v7dKw7clsxCXz4kNK9iYLvch02D1ecIb-gLj1IXI3Y9-9OGwWFyadUm4LuG8_pRCfzj2Tv2mbOAlGxPN4L_kWQr-xX6lwxILjig-Fh_Oa2f0oUj-cvpQq256dA3Y95/s320/DSC02936.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429928739168342482" /></a><br />This guy arrived at the market with his wife and two children – all three of them in the back of his pickup as he sat alone in the front. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7JyFh9Uwv-lsJjQMmYqfo6dAJrLkEGayGLzmj846P0q9bZmmkYBFaR5mNRFqfMt1Y6vL427Oqo6O1Akn3yVwgjCK5ba1f7tW26o8z6YLnyMCp69sdcgneJzMl8U9i2vA4NOuDJPo7Y1n/s1600-h/DSC02937.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7JyFh9Uwv-lsJjQMmYqfo6dAJrLkEGayGLzmj846P0q9bZmmkYBFaR5mNRFqfMt1Y6vL427Oqo6O1Akn3yVwgjCK5ba1f7tW26o8z6YLnyMCp69sdcgneJzMl8U9i2vA4NOuDJPo7Y1n/s320/DSC02937.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429928872365713682" /></a><br />We rode for part of the day on dusty dirt roads filled with trenches and ruts.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOw8rgd8WLgo8gKr2_RLW7V7LIKVyAv2LgOgeP8KopFaGzTBTTutvXogBbTkCUFUf6_oygaJZ5isnWDHyOdVS-qIGqoAWhb8NWx8HVkB-yRoidkImH33dXbOgOw4seGiU4CLDLdXjDyaWp/s1600-h/DSC02959.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOw8rgd8WLgo8gKr2_RLW7V7LIKVyAv2LgOgeP8KopFaGzTBTTutvXogBbTkCUFUf6_oygaJZ5isnWDHyOdVS-qIGqoAWhb8NWx8HVkB-yRoidkImH33dXbOgOw4seGiU4CLDLdXjDyaWp/s320/DSC02959.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429929087937339890" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3MvkfOKuGj45JwsBYWNBMl1Jm3uhPXqT1P7_WMfIHmn3up5ZHOPCRJ4Wur0Sq4DGOj2rcz8d4aDBte6jwZ2XrX2aevmRWCp-06ePksAR1V_pPTr6BCwY7h0eer9sofMr1Fr15lC1gUxDn/s1600-h/DSC02955.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3MvkfOKuGj45JwsBYWNBMl1Jm3uhPXqT1P7_WMfIHmn3up5ZHOPCRJ4Wur0Sq4DGOj2rcz8d4aDBte6jwZ2XrX2aevmRWCp-06ePksAR1V_pPTr6BCwY7h0eer9sofMr1Fr15lC1gUxDn/s320/DSC02955.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429929010425714402" /></a><br />I snoozed a little on a hammock…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb-dhhYHHfb8oq3OiOU9KchkNiUSf_gdviqZ4ZGakZCZ_fmC-AjNGQjgLL-GzCps6H51-PEFZNfEqblWoYkU5SNkvgramtAKxFGS5ui5nY5DapbB6ieGQGqqEKqX1juEDX06LXUi7ZwziW/s1600-h/DSC02979.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb-dhhYHHfb8oq3OiOU9KchkNiUSf_gdviqZ4ZGakZCZ_fmC-AjNGQjgLL-GzCps6H51-PEFZNfEqblWoYkU5SNkvgramtAKxFGS5ui5nY5DapbB6ieGQGqqEKqX1juEDX06LXUi7ZwziW/s320/DSC02979.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429929233527350322" /></a><br />Had a great lunch…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiykC948zXSDcDb9YTvn19qC2BnWRTSlpvKHdq0teILbS729sT6ZSqU6JNoW18vubePESadEu4RIie79GG98YcDNEfALIbEEcKt61OLWmGrVvcAGJeUJg4uj-48RG_64kzyf2CwBmkbTm_/s1600-h/DSC02984.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiykC948zXSDcDb9YTvn19qC2BnWRTSlpvKHdq0teILbS729sT6ZSqU6JNoW18vubePESadEu4RIie79GG98YcDNEfALIbEEcKt61OLWmGrVvcAGJeUJg4uj-48RG_64kzyf2CwBmkbTm_/s320/DSC02984.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429929356566315954" /></a><br />And noticed a couple of amorous Latinos.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3a5dT3WVwCu_kjlytdQjugac1rwpwHzJ5_MzzB5_WVgUUdIp7167Fy8Jg-JZC_TnBTBK8YLvZJs5jmPAIoOodA0Nz5JCmlTMCfYGPDRayWidoRxHq4jITxxiVGSyHVZWtYoCe6fAU2APH/s1600-h/DSC02980.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3a5dT3WVwCu_kjlytdQjugac1rwpwHzJ5_MzzB5_WVgUUdIp7167Fy8Jg-JZC_TnBTBK8YLvZJs5jmPAIoOodA0Nz5JCmlTMCfYGPDRayWidoRxHq4jITxxiVGSyHVZWtYoCe6fAU2APH/s320/DSC02980.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429929497412730946" /></a><br />We saw a couple of farmers hauling two live cows in a rather undersized vehicle.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEfnX-YAMNjWmvsJRds6YfrNblEGxS4Yq6SZ714ffexLS7chHqVuxH4HLfT0gWYZ1hVWsBBJfGKOb0FDTQ_djABZTv5BJy2B7bjuxCHfeFXgG-h8vC_Y_jr2JEIXSzwDhQLudzILlHhTO/s1600-h/DSC02992.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEfnX-YAMNjWmvsJRds6YfrNblEGxS4Yq6SZ714ffexLS7chHqVuxH4HLfT0gWYZ1hVWsBBJfGKOb0FDTQ_djABZTv5BJy2B7bjuxCHfeFXgG-h8vC_Y_jr2JEIXSzwDhQLudzILlHhTO/s320/DSC02992.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429929627033548418" /></a><br />Heading into Tegucigalpa, Helge perfected lane splitting and slid in behind a policeman with his siren running, allowing us to dash through the rush hour traffic – saving perhaps an hour.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcAaETzHzQcFuLC1EkafYRbib3iprLHkngGl58tvaOQyu6zttfucHKqm2givBBq3dyYVbsFuMDXMbU-1rzrbBTXOaFlokAxiP5YO-5Kq2NE2l1zw2eqWY4iuF6RD0iQJ0a6rOtxy0s4pQp/s1600-h/DSC03013.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcAaETzHzQcFuLC1EkafYRbib3iprLHkngGl58tvaOQyu6zttfucHKqm2givBBq3dyYVbsFuMDXMbU-1rzrbBTXOaFlokAxiP5YO-5Kq2NE2l1zw2eqWY4iuF6RD0iQJ0a6rOtxy0s4pQp/s320/DSC03013.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429929799128715058" /></a><br />We are 100 miles from Nicaragua and will cross the border tomorrow.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-38265344347702711192010-01-22T05:24:00.000-08:002010-01-22T06:12:05.154-08:00Day 14-15 – January 18 & 19When we arrived in Tapachula on Sunday, the DHL office was closed, which meant we had to wait until Monday to get the package containing Roger’s title before we could cross the border into Guatemala. Once Monday arrived, and the office opened an hour late, Roger eagerly retrieved his package and opened it, only to discover that his office had sent the wrong title. So we had no choice but to continue on without it, hoping that Roger could bat his eyelashes a bit and get over the border buoyed only by his wit and charm – and he did, he had the border boys & girls eating out of his hand.<br /><br />As we were preparing to leave, there was a noticeable shaking of the hotel which we later discovered was due to an earthquake in Antigua (our next destination) that registered 5.4 on the Richter scale. Was this a foreshadowing of the shakedown we’d be met with at the border? Perhaps. <br /><br /><em>Red Tape, Con Men, and Currency</em><br /><br />As we checked out of Mexico at the Guatemala border, we learned we had to return to our hotel to obtain the proper paperwork to clear our vehicles out of Mexico. Without this paperwork, you have to pay a tax for importing your vehicles. So we obtained the paperwork, headed back to the border, again checked out of Mexico and had an extraordinary experience as we entered Guatemala. <br /><br />We were acting a bit like naïve tourists and were the victims of three amusing scams. Upon clearing the border, we were rushed by a group of money changers and asked to change dollars and pesos into Guatemalan currency. There were numerous groups of these money changers, all anxiously offering their services. Remarkably, they were all offering the same exchange rate. We changed a small amount and later discovered that all the groups were in cahoots as their exchange rate gave us 20% less Guatemalan currency than the banks and ATM machines offered. What amazed me about this was how effectively these 20 eager people conspired. <br /><br />Confusion at the border<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUnJukzDQPnPNO-KH0UA1f0-2Zhc9F1yKb2V5DQBK6pvHk38W6sof8p80dk8hs68W2oCug3Rx3aIf-R5cwPOp3Vr4rpIrc97qzmnvpHeBYNzbXGsIyxHFqeHLDebrUS_diEjc4OoaDxtXG/s1600-h/P1180450.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUnJukzDQPnPNO-KH0UA1f0-2Zhc9F1yKb2V5DQBK6pvHk38W6sof8p80dk8hs68W2oCug3Rx3aIf-R5cwPOp3Vr4rpIrc97qzmnvpHeBYNzbXGsIyxHFqeHLDebrUS_diEjc4OoaDxtXG/s320/P1180450.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429557364007629282" /></a><br />The second scam was a classic “guide in sheep’s clothing” scam. We were approached by men who told us that they would help ease us quickly through customs. First, they led us into a parking lot full of cars that appeared to be waiting in line; they told us it was siesta time at the immigration office. We waited for over an hour, had lunch out of sardine cans, and then a “fixer” arrived with some bad news – he was wearing an Armani tee shirt and a gold chain and said it would cost us $20-$30 a piece to expedite through customs. But Helge, smelling a rat, checked around and found that we had been falsely taken directly to the “problem cases” area and determined that all we needed to do was to find the proper line. We found the line, and after virtually no waiting, met with a customs official. But we still did not escape the 3rd scam – which was paying for our spots in the “problem case” parking lot, which as we determined later, we did not need to be in. <br /><br />Problem area parking lot – cars being towed across the border<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlVDKuhSBvk0IZDBX1h0dp8jUeqewzG9WzIVVlWeLF1csYbY9ZxJmJ1P1rQ8YCHQ57rM9OThHSzMYx43bP-hsM3kLynHLa_qGxMuCTl-8Vn7tSv9LYArfAk1x3JzA5P3gp_vQ_tBqGzA0n/s1600-h/P1180454.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlVDKuhSBvk0IZDBX1h0dp8jUeqewzG9WzIVVlWeLF1csYbY9ZxJmJ1P1rQ8YCHQ57rM9OThHSzMYx43bP-hsM3kLynHLa_qGxMuCTl-8Vn7tSv9LYArfAk1x3JzA5P3gp_vQ_tBqGzA0n/s320/P1180454.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429558625335127874" /></a><br />Helge asks one of the junk car dealers if the “expeditors can be of any help to us” and is told “absolutely not – go to the customs office”<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXNsczCakMR68pjwYIFJRc2U9DRJRSzfePSWxfS5GnIWbIoH2WQCFLIPbbU68-UMQj0qDk1DO7z3rJdwoXlhbxFrJGqHVGG-QpZMxJP1DyoA2E6LW84PQosB7yqebFi-S1bBBOqCi_9246/s1600-h/P1180452.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXNsczCakMR68pjwYIFJRc2U9DRJRSzfePSWxfS5GnIWbIoH2WQCFLIPbbU68-UMQj0qDk1DO7z3rJdwoXlhbxFrJGqHVGG-QpZMxJP1DyoA2E6LW84PQosB7yqebFi-S1bBBOqCi_9246/s320/P1180452.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429558753905419042" /></a><br />Processing into Guatemala took a very long time and we did not clear customs until after 3:00 p.m., having started at 9:30 a.m. <br /><br />There’s a huge difference between Guatemala and Mexico – Guatemala is largely agricultural with only 15% of the economy devoted to manufacturing. Poverty is more prevalent, the roads are poorly kept, and the road on which we traveled to Antigua had speed bumps (not as clearly marked as in Mexico) – it was easy to hit them at full speed. <br /><br />Our first major shock was this bridge - - we didn’t go across it.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPgupMhQsRfGM3HsRSHP10QYoS2gom13A1RMZqTaZPwIoCq4lyDQJ4vuD-q7EnFXPpprtz_s1UWaWdJp5ZesEWEdo2B8T-qo3Qby4-DMPQDMEVCeJmgn7Z5bxfU-prUjOXZTBhlQspVkNM/s1600-h/DSC02806.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPgupMhQsRfGM3HsRSHP10QYoS2gom13A1RMZqTaZPwIoCq4lyDQJ4vuD-q7EnFXPpprtz_s1UWaWdJp5ZesEWEdo2B8T-qo3Qby4-DMPQDMEVCeJmgn7Z5bxfU-prUjOXZTBhlQspVkNM/s320/DSC02806.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429558877029887442" /></a><br />There was incredible traffic – generally in both directions – but here in only one direction.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JuCUdVwIV3EIVqfaom_13VemY_DegSduczjDlugbKZHD1V5ppyACvcll7-iNzbegy3QvOrwap7VcSu3HITq2GuR0CDDJ6yCqMu4iecyu2rWY3uVm3pPtNSNsKSzB5f53NrUjk4Sw1IDk/s1600-h/DSC02815.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JuCUdVwIV3EIVqfaom_13VemY_DegSduczjDlugbKZHD1V5ppyACvcll7-iNzbegy3QvOrwap7VcSu3HITq2GuR0CDDJ6yCqMu4iecyu2rWY3uVm3pPtNSNsKSzB5f53NrUjk4Sw1IDk/s320/DSC02815.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429559004097142882" /></a><br />Driving in all sorts of contrivances – no seat belts here (let alone child car seats)<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHSOcH6iRW1R7kwkWUT8ZpOcJ4K1jgNi9kwZyiyJ3o6FF4F2isI4b-J2yqOLlkZkzDGwu-OOy2RZxV77BbXsqwd_Gx_JjoSdH6JiME1Rbm6F6kI7hOzdJDh3yE6xlfCnte8F35fJe7p1pC/s1600-h/DSC02814.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHSOcH6iRW1R7kwkWUT8ZpOcJ4K1jgNi9kwZyiyJ3o6FF4F2isI4b-J2yqOLlkZkzDGwu-OOy2RZxV77BbXsqwd_Gx_JjoSdH6JiME1Rbm6F6kI7hOzdJDh3yE6xlfCnte8F35fJe7p1pC/s320/DSC02814.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429559103879961410" /></a><br />We were clearly entering the tropics – big trees, lots of streams, everything moist and sticky.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZRzSIxhF-oePZCSL9aWVP3PO7wTJSEo2wCz1ltHgkVHA9o0hfYUY8nS6a2M-LQbgR6nglEkCTaUA_aYmjZ3pmU36bYSU9YIojEkzecBNRuTUbenJXd9dsK3MiRfIyEHAQqmXsqSW1HUmy/s1600-h/DSC02810.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZRzSIxhF-oePZCSL9aWVP3PO7wTJSEo2wCz1ltHgkVHA9o0hfYUY8nS6a2M-LQbgR6nglEkCTaUA_aYmjZ3pmU36bYSU9YIojEkzecBNRuTUbenJXd9dsK3MiRfIyEHAQqmXsqSW1HUmy/s320/DSC02810.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429559266418692754" /></a><br />We went through mountainous areas and saw many trucks hauling sugar cane to the refinery.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAqBYUoEixjQJkLDb-Yh-W7mpvPBp2zYbGKFTjlBbAkF5q_VpnHrYCLW8keRzWGhejQ-rWXFyBaFro9weJWQlmkb8q9DtxQRSkr8L7bt10IVKEaTxw0q7_aQ7bZCF90FZ87DPxUJnajRLT/s1600-h/DSC02818.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAqBYUoEixjQJkLDb-Yh-W7mpvPBp2zYbGKFTjlBbAkF5q_VpnHrYCLW8keRzWGhejQ-rWXFyBaFro9weJWQlmkb8q9DtxQRSkr8L7bt10IVKEaTxw0q7_aQ7bZCF90FZ87DPxUJnajRLT/s320/DSC02818.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429559994954024242" /></a><br />As night fell, we got ourselves into what my sister Harriet calls the worst case scenario – driving at night in Central America. On top of this, we got lost trying to find a shortcut to Antigua, Guatemala. We ended up on a toll road with pedestrians crossing the road and drivers on motorbikes in the wrong lanes. I got cut off passing someone in my lane, and at another point was cut off by someone head-on.<br /><br />The process of getting to Antigua required lane splitting, which seems to be acceptable to other drivers but is quite distracting at night.<br /><br />Upon arriving in Antigua, Helge asked a random pedestrian where to stay and he suggested a beautiful hotel around the corner which had just opened – we were four of perhaps only a dozen people staying there.<br /><br />The city square was as gorgeous as those we previously encountered…<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-1tLcj5tUomrboxjvC2x5UXZ3KRyrhP5HPYlvzQEpeASBn-aj1ZncOB9vw-abM8u0Oi-Ka4JFTSfoYN-TyY1F8WWWqhZHLbZr8dD-GR4_4TkuQOvcDle6tgngsZxEXoAXmhv7JLhJMfyc/s1600-h/DSC02826.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-1tLcj5tUomrboxjvC2x5UXZ3KRyrhP5HPYlvzQEpeASBn-aj1ZncOB9vw-abM8u0Oi-Ka4JFTSfoYN-TyY1F8WWWqhZHLbZr8dD-GR4_4TkuQOvcDle6tgngsZxEXoAXmhv7JLhJMfyc/s320/DSC02826.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429560792208232066" /></a><br />And was wired for WiFi!<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjcSTA2xWKJqsmdf8ReICWizaPrhwy1YoJZcQbDajjfTeAS1ejdq_fQchmxIqBTspew5CslR9OAMBYAghU8gtJPJa4xZjNR4dQf9RrRbZv_s5L9BY30ZrOwzVki3AeMqHorHTZklyBdY0J/s1600-h/DSC02827.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjcSTA2xWKJqsmdf8ReICWizaPrhwy1YoJZcQbDajjfTeAS1ejdq_fQchmxIqBTspew5CslR9OAMBYAghU8gtJPJa4xZjNR4dQf9RrRbZv_s5L9BY30ZrOwzVki3AeMqHorHTZklyBdY0J/s320/DSC02827.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429560960801052818" /></a><br />Helge hired an extraordinary guide, Faust.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMyBOQ2inpfudOJRcNHGuNneV3FYbgYUYsW2EKgkjQTYg3UNtU4uqPiAc2h95pZXRAW0qF6X_Eo4Hd1polx2oweuVMXUyf5FB8r-_sBDfJ-T9P3BlJkGyQERS5KbYSC0uiyhF8hNEm0H08/s1600-h/DSC02823.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMyBOQ2inpfudOJRcNHGuNneV3FYbgYUYsW2EKgkjQTYg3UNtU4uqPiAc2h95pZXRAW0qF6X_Eo4Hd1polx2oweuVMXUyf5FB8r-_sBDfJ-T9P3BlJkGyQERS5KbYSC0uiyhF8hNEm0H08/s320/DSC02823.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429561117468109506" /></a><br />Three volcanoes were prominent on the perimeter of town.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjou17nR1qlDHwylpQFW3HXuJjnaj8nPIRpeujniSoEA-nEOpw7gwVRInN0GtyIh6kd5cPQkNRDY163-J93ubUzuvqK61-ENxZ49BGEA76g-QRMUtBnBt-n51yrC_ZrtG9C7XTAdGszQhLa/s1600-h/DSC02822.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjou17nR1qlDHwylpQFW3HXuJjnaj8nPIRpeujniSoEA-nEOpw7gwVRInN0GtyIh6kd5cPQkNRDY163-J93ubUzuvqK61-ENxZ49BGEA76g-QRMUtBnBt-n51yrC_ZrtG9C7XTAdGszQhLa/s320/DSC02822.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429561408636777762" /></a><br />And as you can see, one (on the left) is still active.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyh-bkiLeb5MLm1gA90IeoWDF1r7LQUAQs5hoojXK-YrLicnCONHaBCASRsbwp-QVIcjLyFOVJEMYpOtPG5ehlkvMQ3aM6JX1w0pNbIfzODLbuzw4lsdslbq6Pp0CJcl13tuqXQlCCB_N4/s1600-h/DSC02832.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyh-bkiLeb5MLm1gA90IeoWDF1r7LQUAQs5hoojXK-YrLicnCONHaBCASRsbwp-QVIcjLyFOVJEMYpOtPG5ehlkvMQ3aM6JX1w0pNbIfzODLbuzw4lsdslbq6Pp0CJcl13tuqXQlCCB_N4/s320/DSC02832.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429561753139027074" /></a><br />Old government buildings surrounded the square.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnt6ToeUEaN_Gt-Gm2867s1EX8KcjvFjVpRSE8kO_3MRRgZ5d9q0tSXZs4OVE8mAflH1Vwa_lh7IuMl2CzV-RRbbKiKj34urT1GI_0sPGz6TeQe6qxm8fjpxG_DqjsYPpKCYpY77NKFhT-/s1600-h/DSC02829.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnt6ToeUEaN_Gt-Gm2867s1EX8KcjvFjVpRSE8kO_3MRRgZ5d9q0tSXZs4OVE8mAflH1Vwa_lh7IuMl2CzV-RRbbKiKj34urT1GI_0sPGz6TeQe6qxm8fjpxG_DqjsYPpKCYpY77NKFhT-/s320/DSC02829.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429561907620923762" /></a><br />While we were touring, the active volcano continued to snort – there are 33 volcanoes in Guatemala, 5 of which are active.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRqwdy3ao9SIFrZS5Er3xHJq04Bh9FvJsGQxooteqe1I4KS3to_BK6jX05AbT7oNQpxwwOLbMkYuDFnn-_UGelguVdzdfmtb-nqAhlMOOCKLRc3MOYnehAJp4Cv2I3tiqdptWlZlAJx6h1/s1600-h/DSC02836.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRqwdy3ao9SIFrZS5Er3xHJq04Bh9FvJsGQxooteqe1I4KS3to_BK6jX05AbT7oNQpxwwOLbMkYuDFnn-_UGelguVdzdfmtb-nqAhlMOOCKLRc3MOYnehAJp4Cv2I3tiqdptWlZlAJx6h1/s320/DSC02836.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429562018345381346" /></a><br />As in Mexico, Guatemalans do not feel you should have to leash your dogs. Most of us our drawn to cultures that like dogs – but none of their dogs compared to our dog, Scrappy!<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBg1qvoQx24LW3tcipFlw8MtJqX7bNtpYBUE2NDjd08PrUTYThyB47bWPXJ9dJXXzob7H4uvaONciKQmEaK38xSZpjtVAyXc6zc_TR5G4JzWVwU-YkOnOOqehNBgeSuKfP0UqBaJ8YfGKI/s1600-h/DSC02844.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBg1qvoQx24LW3tcipFlw8MtJqX7bNtpYBUE2NDjd08PrUTYThyB47bWPXJ9dJXXzob7H4uvaONciKQmEaK38xSZpjtVAyXc6zc_TR5G4JzWVwU-YkOnOOqehNBgeSuKfP0UqBaJ8YfGKI/s320/DSC02844.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429564520150446930" /></a><br />Antigua was the Spanish capital of Central America in the days after the Spanish conquest, but was entirely evacuated in 1776, three years after a devastating earthquake. The entire city relocated to Guatemala City, which is less seismically active. Since then, Antigua has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the qualifications for which is that only eight colors may be used for building exteriors.<br /><br />With the amount of religious culture in the area, I was somewhat surprised by this statue in the square of a maiden with water flowing from her breasts, sitting on what looks like a fish.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0TcYrWc1Vp7MBs4w_yBNESuuXJWd_ffgxbIdwrOgmEG6udklZlM68igxs3iTnqXIFGQNQbzC9w8brq5HxG7BV6AByU6B1CekRbmi_SEEsEuOGgaBWjayogWutG7A4pk3EhSoaBIcs4Muw/s1600-h/DSC02843.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0TcYrWc1Vp7MBs4w_yBNESuuXJWd_ffgxbIdwrOgmEG6udklZlM68igxs3iTnqXIFGQNQbzC9w8brq5HxG7BV6AByU6B1CekRbmi_SEEsEuOGgaBWjayogWutG7A4pk3EhSoaBIcs4Muw/s320/DSC02843.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429565278122147570" /></a><br />Helge told us the proper way to lay in a hammock (crosswise so as to not hurt your back) – he spent the better part of 10 years motorcycling with a hammock.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia0D8eQPrniYgNUhS-4W1Vliui19dh_ZaIvwEAmUtvxaM_ZnVcJ8Xqf-nAjD52I_51b9qQGK4c5DT1G6PlEjESy0ouSVBaKnkqbX1Bbj8mD3UAxjJXny02GlQHXKFdbZTWGvwOLvpxJjTV/s1600-h/DSC02857.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia0D8eQPrniYgNUhS-4W1Vliui19dh_ZaIvwEAmUtvxaM_ZnVcJ8Xqf-nAjD52I_51b9qQGK4c5DT1G6PlEjESy0ouSVBaKnkqbX1Bbj8mD3UAxjJXny02GlQHXKFdbZTWGvwOLvpxJjTV/s320/DSC02857.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429565487779536626" /></a><br />To plan for GlobeRiders’ future trip, we investigated the city’s gorgeous hotels with beautiful courtyards.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFwm2dn2ZM8iDqtYXDATn7VQlTixK9R8q5trjH38T4MkJCXGxN9VfLorgAEyPNgT7cbvn9DoH9Klq37S1qVWAhCHs5_HjmyltA54E_JkukB5UGouVv2BxbVfgfK2YfZFy4-K3p7sv3roBf/s1600-h/DSC02859.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFwm2dn2ZM8iDqtYXDATn7VQlTixK9R8q5trjH38T4MkJCXGxN9VfLorgAEyPNgT7cbvn9DoH9Klq37S1qVWAhCHs5_HjmyltA54E_JkukB5UGouVv2BxbVfgfK2YfZFy4-K3p7sv3roBf/s320/DSC02859.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429565676269933714" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjma_pkRiv1IwIr80ASmJJ1FxbeG1thciL7Jg8Oynd96WAe7oK9wFAN5Inl5q7bYAGHAbO0GPo-LLvGmmeOkrUXSLH94OLBKuDIz8YjfrKprSe0-ddIcWMV73sgGP5quj1Dav7rwE9OycQA/s1600-h/DSC02858.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjma_pkRiv1IwIr80ASmJJ1FxbeG1thciL7Jg8Oynd96WAe7oK9wFAN5Inl5q7bYAGHAbO0GPo-LLvGmmeOkrUXSLH94OLBKuDIz8YjfrKprSe0-ddIcWMV73sgGP5quj1Dav7rwE9OycQA/s320/DSC02858.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429565629344489378" /></a><br />Some ruins from the numerous earthquakes.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRDf-X_7shaFaZpuZzy4jal3-tnOqNrVEOM1lqHFLNvW6v9pL6Aq5G6SvVAXlO61G5jsDF_WF7dELu-fExj8X2mgoy5__sL8yqOaJclTBy-ejnlwt8_7fSLIGjtIyWYHe8TCG1UAkCoi3G/s1600-h/DSC02875.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRDf-X_7shaFaZpuZzy4jal3-tnOqNrVEOM1lqHFLNvW6v9pL6Aq5G6SvVAXlO61G5jsDF_WF7dELu-fExj8X2mgoy5__sL8yqOaJclTBy-ejnlwt8_7fSLIGjtIyWYHe8TCG1UAkCoi3G/s320/DSC02875.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429565813304623042" /></a><br />We talked with a group of well-scrubbed, attractive and articulate Mormon missionaries.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDQAoexBrEw_ZBnEpqQCXcM-boapFBy4mud3Nq4xvQ7w3z40fNJYsuoOREY4EjuAxVHH_Jtr0eva_ePzX-WfOC7XmIyHCCl4wbJsaRrkLC74zL6Gye4_SCc-CJ3X_XAwMI5VoyH_y26J1u/s1600-h/DSC02874.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDQAoexBrEw_ZBnEpqQCXcM-boapFBy4mud3Nq4xvQ7w3z40fNJYsuoOREY4EjuAxVHH_Jtr0eva_ePzX-WfOC7XmIyHCCl4wbJsaRrkLC74zL6Gye4_SCc-CJ3X_XAwMI5VoyH_y26J1u/s320/DSC02874.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429565953806003154" /></a><br />A chair that a local blacksmith handmade - $60.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRpRFPNvMExSmut03GbmqiP4p0CGtLyKm-iYYDeodAhMyjgI9XyCqwPXAOxiuptDr3BUjwdr-rbv_Rr2L4oJdraFHx5nWxmhbMyvWtGIRrfznLriTBLGTUdmKfEaaufEOin3klys34gec4/s1600-h/DSC02887.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRpRFPNvMExSmut03GbmqiP4p0CGtLyKm-iYYDeodAhMyjgI9XyCqwPXAOxiuptDr3BUjwdr-rbv_Rr2L4oJdraFHx5nWxmhbMyvWtGIRrfznLriTBLGTUdmKfEaaufEOin3klys34gec4/s320/DSC02887.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429566056871195602" /></a><br />We visited a wonderful Mayan museum with terrific facemasks (I think I know this guy)<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTKVBVpy4HFSVO4eNIO9pPUilPqpwrU4euU3I2yrPs69eAidWj2cmNLnVv0hh6Phl4szcpVZhNhD75j_qhyphenhyphenko4ugj53PqS6b_54iAEhM-FL-yJqjRE6m4hHODWVRcpEQ50mUQqjBYYzCjo/s1600-h/DSC02901.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTKVBVpy4HFSVO4eNIO9pPUilPqpwrU4euU3I2yrPs69eAidWj2cmNLnVv0hh6Phl4szcpVZhNhD75j_qhyphenhyphenko4ugj53PqS6b_54iAEhM-FL-yJqjRE6m4hHODWVRcpEQ50mUQqjBYYzCjo/s320/DSC02901.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429566188672408050" /></a><br />With a guard bearing a Winchester “street cleaner.” <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZb-aQRBo2eyX6f7awiSqjq-8a0GabjAv1q38G5D3ycIbbfA4waWFeoVmF0Yc13Xc1bAqsV0RRqVjhz-m8BoCbVs-E2-rto_hBSeZ4fY0iqK-ltSQh4k5zUWks22DX0U_mZT1u0WGaxtLZ/s1600-h/DSC02893.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZb-aQRBo2eyX6f7awiSqjq-8a0GabjAv1q38G5D3ycIbbfA4waWFeoVmF0Yc13Xc1bAqsV0RRqVjhz-m8BoCbVs-E2-rto_hBSeZ4fY0iqK-ltSQh4k5zUWks22DX0U_mZT1u0WGaxtLZ/s320/DSC02893.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429566313356598306" /></a><br />One of the notable activities in Antigua is the teaching of Spanish. There’s a variety of Spanish teaching programs where you live with a family for two weeks to one month speaking only Spanish – the cost is approximately $200 per week, including tuition, room and board. These programs are apparently very effective and most travelers can learn Spanish within a month.<br /><br />Antigua appears to me to be a “must see” destination in Central America – not quite as elegant as San Miguel – but definitely worth a two- or three-day visit.<br /><br />Tomorrow at 7:00 a.m., we are off to Honduras!Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-57143166130311922532010-01-20T10:41:00.000-08:002010-01-20T11:28:05.895-08:00Day 11-13 – January 15, 16 & 17We departed Taxco and headed for Oaxaca where we spent the night. The next day we went from Oaxaca on to Tehuantepec and finally to Tapachula near the border of Guatemala. There was a large variety of riding - from excellent road surfaces in the mountains with twisty-turnies and smooth banked turns to riding smooth straight highways through near desert conditions to lush agricultural supporting sugar cane. The road went from altitudes near 8,000 feet down to 3,000 feet. The take-home from these three days was that Mexico has a wide variety of ecosystems with the vast majority of rural inhabitants in the valleys. However, Mexico is predominantly an urban population with 76% of its 111 million people living in cities versus the US with 81% of its population living in urban areas.<br /><br />The city of Oaxaca is at an altitude of 5,084 feet and is situated in the middle of three valleys. <br /><br />We drove through some fertile areas – it was sugar cane harvesting time and the cane was being harvested one stalk at a time – one man, one machete. The cane was delivered to the refinery in large trailers hauled two at a time by one semi and a variety of dump trucks. There was thick smoke in the air from the burning of residue in the fields. No doubt that at some point in the future some smart financial wiz will put some cash in his pocket by selling some carbon credits from not burning cane in the fields.<br /><br />As we travel further south the land is more fertile and therefore larger farms which are more aggressively managed.<br /><br />We broke our own rule about sticking to low calorie lunches – but I refuse to eat salads (the source of the dreaded Montezuma’s revenge) – something the rest of my group is neglecting.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGK_IarzNRqrsUPH0DidhboWsbjK2XpIxdE3sYNL1kNVajgsGnxs9QmMdse9a8JFr234FqRMtSLSSfQo1Fq1rAA1EYy66737iRA5taoQRh22xgqbcO0oSmqBWKlFhODKn32atMdjfKajB2/s1600-h/DSC02740.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGK_IarzNRqrsUPH0DidhboWsbjK2XpIxdE3sYNL1kNVajgsGnxs9QmMdse9a8JFr234FqRMtSLSSfQo1Fq1rAA1EYy66737iRA5taoQRh22xgqbcO0oSmqBWKlFhODKn32atMdjfKajB2/s320/DSC02740.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428899824771240834" /></a><br />Oaxaca also had a town square packed with people. Public displays of affection are commonplace, walking hand in hand, hugging and nuzzling - and statistics bear this out – Mexico has a crude annual birthrate of 21 births per thousand compared to the US – 14 births per thousand. This is due largely to the youthful population – 30% of Mexicans are under 15 versus 20% of the US population and 8% of Mexicans are over 60 versus 17% of the population of the US.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdIlqHztNTTXDYRL5m5I3UYFHXh0Z9dMLBxOHv4WyjPohw1_Y0hOzSmpbQYbjBxUIFoju364F-jo2cDCN9vACayhpM_XwdTbauqETUASGpLrxIWM7kCMaqAynseDo-XqGrxPlWwIAVEe21/s1600-h/DSC02752.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdIlqHztNTTXDYRL5m5I3UYFHXh0Z9dMLBxOHv4WyjPohw1_Y0hOzSmpbQYbjBxUIFoju364F-jo2cDCN9vACayhpM_XwdTbauqETUASGpLrxIWM7kCMaqAynseDo-XqGrxPlWwIAVEe21/s320/DSC02752.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428899964178748450" /></a><br />In the US the mall takes the place of the European style town square. There is not a lot of parking available near these squares - - people mostly walk to them and don’t mind walking 15 minutes to meet a friend.<br /><br />As in Taxco, the square was active long into the night.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHR4JWCjr3iTayq4jhqJEzXCcFuwlheuEfJF74HrQSYLIX1-W8wFA3-yHIhQvZqQQIwpLD6z1GME1qOEmXeHWZOUYJ4qo_4VALFo_smOtVWeuOHg03tIcZAy5goq8k4agFt-1wDV8H5bVB/s1600-h/P1150377.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHR4JWCjr3iTayq4jhqJEzXCcFuwlheuEfJF74HrQSYLIX1-W8wFA3-yHIhQvZqQQIwpLD6z1GME1qOEmXeHWZOUYJ4qo_4VALFo_smOtVWeuOHg03tIcZAy5goq8k4agFt-1wDV8H5bVB/s320/P1150377.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428900206772005298" /></a><br />Our hotel in Oaxaca was a beautiful remodeled antique but unlike on the Silk Road, we could not park our motorcycles in the courtyard – they were unloaded in front and stored in a garage around the corner – you definitely do not want to leave it outside with the rampant petty theft.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipFC0TKaq_z4QRmSEOYYbd1ZeGnLiPSmzV9N8ZPKCtChi4NnyYCX1yeLDc21O45kSYoRvaNylEmYFZKZWN_408dJMTt1ysoLJi8eBUZTyophQjxqVVWBolRiM_5CXSQKnD1sPxWSoxnjX-/s1600-h/DSC02759.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipFC0TKaq_z4QRmSEOYYbd1ZeGnLiPSmzV9N8ZPKCtChi4NnyYCX1yeLDc21O45kSYoRvaNylEmYFZKZWN_408dJMTt1ysoLJi8eBUZTyophQjxqVVWBolRiM_5CXSQKnD1sPxWSoxnjX-/s320/DSC02759.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428900359286186914" /></a><br />The hotel had a lovely courtyard <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRtfznivV4xUMihBSmpRMW8I3XzLkU4YB6Wo2e_UfEc0Brr24hnHcyCUAFGXPTIEBPAbWofL2bhYY8I20pswYnKA9-cA1LLOBeOwP6sK1yNQfxk-iZCPk9ycmRwHzGXnYpitkm2mKG-ubo/s1600-h/DSC02757.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRtfznivV4xUMihBSmpRMW8I3XzLkU4YB6Wo2e_UfEc0Brr24hnHcyCUAFGXPTIEBPAbWofL2bhYY8I20pswYnKA9-cA1LLOBeOwP6sK1yNQfxk-iZCPk9ycmRwHzGXnYpitkm2mKG-ubo/s320/DSC02757.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428900489166740770" /></a><br />And modern art <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjn1eGguyhHsJarzXsyn8LpxDmgsl8O7aivXx_KQOI7R5l7ewKQnC864DFor97AltC1LUsBmQH1BfXFR-AmRAZzX8WOsYVB4Raq1xyd79VEG1S4Ol7-_JF4fys2c_UJTsjxxA3yXF5o6OS/s1600-h/DSC02758.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjn1eGguyhHsJarzXsyn8LpxDmgsl8O7aivXx_KQOI7R5l7ewKQnC864DFor97AltC1LUsBmQH1BfXFR-AmRAZzX8WOsYVB4Raq1xyd79VEG1S4Ol7-_JF4fys2c_UJTsjxxA3yXF5o6OS/s320/DSC02758.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428900620240341554" /></a><br />As we headed out of Oaxaca we again ran into heavy traffic<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSm7u38jbELDtLkRct9UWFSAe5by18aHcNZzYLIyBzkfpdyQQ4CBBehmcEh1hYQeax29E_DarDXCtIFRjb8Dld1hMAIpSEvwzwcwszg5lPu5wTGqoJeoGcc9J5lSKujdWcB7hfn0ClOAAo/s1600-h/DSC02769.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSm7u38jbELDtLkRct9UWFSAe5by18aHcNZzYLIyBzkfpdyQQ4CBBehmcEh1hYQeax29E_DarDXCtIFRjb8Dld1hMAIpSEvwzwcwszg5lPu5wTGqoJeoGcc9J5lSKujdWcB7hfn0ClOAAo/s320/DSC02769.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428900751121705458" /></a><br />That included cramped motorbikes (no helmets)<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTHVxQitscWwPSgwhsJN91K5ABOQuZvNVS99LBqQqn4v-BnPbLGjtmbb5N7qHoaLjtlx_4ntM8VretsYOy5do5b7J6DKntNjvp-YUgUzITORAKYC7t42eM9wBhIDOMRc42FFVErxxzadCC/s1600-h/DSC02768.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTHVxQitscWwPSgwhsJN91K5ABOQuZvNVS99LBqQqn4v-BnPbLGjtmbb5N7qHoaLjtlx_4ntM8VretsYOy5do5b7J6DKntNjvp-YUgUzITORAKYC7t42eM9wBhIDOMRc42FFVErxxzadCC/s320/DSC02768.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428900854854558674" /></a><br />Picturesque, patriotic art<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGfBqKnwAEldJMGlQz9tmawUgJK82xQ5yzzs8T9awv0j19Ok-t1tvjBKqAo_Fauy1EYKRIfmnDUJo6ZqTQ7NUR9EALbWGi-69NhEoqFXUlNJlcXif81Jbf5lO2J7yp6RjGxCYqT-wx8QR6/s1600-h/DSC02770.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGfBqKnwAEldJMGlQz9tmawUgJK82xQ5yzzs8T9awv0j19Ok-t1tvjBKqAo_Fauy1EYKRIfmnDUJo6ZqTQ7NUR9EALbWGi-69NhEoqFXUlNJlcXif81Jbf5lO2J7yp6RjGxCYqT-wx8QR6/s320/DSC02770.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428900964994529170" /></a><br />The ever present mountains and puffy clouds<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFaGMsCjI8BuVOCcUfeyssDOOXGmRCifuUrldrA6S7RWvAmJK1PhosyOGYVmHcIUNuWOEODG_it9VEngQtWr1Gozy-aN_S6KX9Br6lCb9NnuSNXr-8E5ua4VwdzY3zpoNhe8vyJ2J8YDL8/s1600-h/DSC02785.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFaGMsCjI8BuVOCcUfeyssDOOXGmRCifuUrldrA6S7RWvAmJK1PhosyOGYVmHcIUNuWOEODG_it9VEngQtWr1Gozy-aN_S6KX9Br6lCb9NnuSNXr-8E5ua4VwdzY3zpoNhe8vyJ2J8YDL8/s320/DSC02785.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428901082535042178" /></a><br />We spend much time adjusting helmet cameras – Roger, Vincent and I each have one. Helge may use some of our final video sequences for his DVD on our trip.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbnLB60KMyQhcDhmuy0nqR33RhJHZJcle45FEQmmHrdNI9TCbfwvObiErh-1Fs_FmWm3EpNuDzGLqxQpcrDb7iY5cZWNzOXtobbiUesvueJ1KSw9nh7SbN7I9XjVsjmtE6hjWY340FHMbl/s1600-h/DSC02789.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbnLB60KMyQhcDhmuy0nqR33RhJHZJcle45FEQmmHrdNI9TCbfwvObiErh-1Fs_FmWm3EpNuDzGLqxQpcrDb7iY5cZWNzOXtobbiUesvueJ1KSw9nh7SbN7I9XjVsjmtE6hjWY340FHMbl/s320/DSC02789.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428901195168607538" /></a><br />Helge takes some long distance shots with his tripod<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyI2H4twx3jIMQFNvrFo8en3MCkFUrgx54MEUt8M2V8AlQdW5fmJdJMvyOsztTKw_SAuFBSNoW5UJ4BAD3qbtePpDe7wEuMuhDViCEX5FhigzVHKCBeoeTRmveEEP3HDvWLW60NLUc3_xX/s1600-h/P1160382.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyI2H4twx3jIMQFNvrFo8en3MCkFUrgx54MEUt8M2V8AlQdW5fmJdJMvyOsztTKw_SAuFBSNoW5UJ4BAD3qbtePpDe7wEuMuhDViCEX5FhigzVHKCBeoeTRmveEEP3HDvWLW60NLUc3_xX/s320/P1160382.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428901322052279426" /></a><br />At lunch we meet an 88 year old man who two years ago fell from a roof and had a compound fracture of his leg. Because his son is in the armed services, he was able to go to the “big hospital” in Oaxaca and his leg has healed nicely.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvh4hBs8P6bhTsk4lk-YkTk3oW7YBLYKG2Sbxcv3McOLdCrD9BUiMOcti-yy9Rv-6q2W7EPsjIA8-dme3Dn3OzLHmeKy0qlsXGe-OEEsbETsXKFFSGRmuMQUtfmyasjIAU2psmGBB4dpLY/s1600-h/DSC02792.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvh4hBs8P6bhTsk4lk-YkTk3oW7YBLYKG2Sbxcv3McOLdCrD9BUiMOcti-yy9Rv-6q2W7EPsjIA8-dme3Dn3OzLHmeKy0qlsXGe-OEEsbETsXKFFSGRmuMQUtfmyasjIAU2psmGBB4dpLY/s320/DSC02792.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428901441428431682" /></a><br />My lunch – I polished off an entire fish (not something I’m proud off)<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihGV8qbGczFTunjM98s1h2yaen6tbKIl1LDVNcQ0A4bkq01CN0Sd787fhSBvLJsTQcC9wWq3ksZ-4BJ416un6zhfAIoa1lnZ4CByvPe-pssQfPwKNqCuhOQu1mTnPcfXrMPSqQlr4YNUgr/s1600-h/P1160385.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihGV8qbGczFTunjM98s1h2yaen6tbKIl1LDVNcQ0A4bkq01CN0Sd787fhSBvLJsTQcC9wWq3ksZ-4BJ416un6zhfAIoa1lnZ4CByvPe-pssQfPwKNqCuhOQu1mTnPcfXrMPSqQlr4YNUgr/s320/P1160385.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428901562451155266" /></a><br />The proprietor’s children watching television<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGhDQGGuMipIplxTBOIFGfvoKvvMUPhbJvki0h6Irfpyh0zid0yETRTgmKAGuztJ0IdN2mFlY-99RpJ18k0Q0I3FRxB_rea_Xj5pHV5sXVCMfNQwSJX91H2jDlZUDuQy-SBEARnWSRi2dq/s1600-h/P1160387.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGhDQGGuMipIplxTBOIFGfvoKvvMUPhbJvki0h6Irfpyh0zid0yETRTgmKAGuztJ0IdN2mFlY-99RpJ18k0Q0I3FRxB_rea_Xj5pHV5sXVCMfNQwSJX91H2jDlZUDuQy-SBEARnWSRi2dq/s320/P1160387.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428901706517853426" /></a><br />We arrive in a fishing village near Tehuantepec <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBqNY0oqr80rQlQRTkyhnQ8wKTZoJ-gMh1SSkmKVf3ATP6_Fa8HmYWlFQ16Jj5GqpAs-0mGG74dMW-VXWGFS3sGmghzFyV11dW86GZ0_PEr-oKEf4q0b1wGbHQ9oruwtSz5IXHg2Kl1V4s/s1600-h/P1160396.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBqNY0oqr80rQlQRTkyhnQ8wKTZoJ-gMh1SSkmKVf3ATP6_Fa8HmYWlFQ16Jj5GqpAs-0mGG74dMW-VXWGFS3sGmghzFyV11dW86GZ0_PEr-oKEf4q0b1wGbHQ9oruwtSz5IXHg2Kl1V4s/s320/P1160396.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428901959523496418" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx6MWm31Ujx5K43DBb8kp8k2N3DGA6YaM8bwmgNg5dfgs8MxitmZAbQpGbSq6w2i6esxD-cEBkN9zdYDT2UE0sO1APyEyyOitiUuYXTsCtEMSWixDqN2w25B6SDN9ToDdz5jnXxagFl_AG/s1600-h/P1160395.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx6MWm31Ujx5K43DBb8kp8k2N3DGA6YaM8bwmgNg5dfgs8MxitmZAbQpGbSq6w2i6esxD-cEBkN9zdYDT2UE0sO1APyEyyOitiUuYXTsCtEMSWixDqN2w25B6SDN9ToDdz5jnXxagFl_AG/s320/P1160395.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428901888851051986" /></a><br />And camp on a beach in front of what we hope is an abandoned building. The wind was howling and it was difficult to both set up and take down the tents.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLTwVdAWGmq2xc5RdQEXr_8MDOv_UNLek6srMLtcsovlAlo2HWe1nvEF1gO-PkgnIhsDsgv6w7-yp0ej1BZ-Xq4KDhI0iZxPytSIT3VDOQbW5qmqWSLCkJbhQoOFoqYUDacdX_6a2pX0BX/s1600-h/DSC02793.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLTwVdAWGmq2xc5RdQEXr_8MDOv_UNLek6srMLtcsovlAlo2HWe1nvEF1gO-PkgnIhsDsgv6w7-yp0ej1BZ-Xq4KDhI0iZxPytSIT3VDOQbW5qmqWSLCkJbhQoOFoqYUDacdX_6a2pX0BX/s320/DSC02793.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428902108694614738" /></a><br />We awoke to a beautiful sunrise<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZNFtx_8gpymWZO_0gVhVURwQQ6MON1l1vYAJ_mYBezHHIeD0dXHjOynBVx56GqSy4h3dQ1kb1V0FFwYg9SkB-gntQI0pfheTqyBQolLFz0QuzBaRmnSsRIaaUpOfvVrpd1ie5FAtq_AHO/s1600-h/P1170402.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZNFtx_8gpymWZO_0gVhVURwQQ6MON1l1vYAJ_mYBezHHIeD0dXHjOynBVx56GqSy4h3dQ1kb1V0FFwYg9SkB-gntQI0pfheTqyBQolLFz0QuzBaRmnSsRIaaUpOfvVrpd1ie5FAtq_AHO/s320/P1170402.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428902243560379378" /></a><br />We find it’s easier to ride your bikes into the sand than to get them out<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh19L8caEZ744yqFvcLKFiqFMdSeq3W1AHzhPkyAJOOaG0xt7idQ0SLNcw_A-zEO7jtOinVGeLKVgBc8zggKytvFLaCftCVRH_7SuLR3fawHHrCzgCJ8BLI06q4UW4UMG9Eu081tN8Eak7Z/s1600-h/P1170405.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh19L8caEZ744yqFvcLKFiqFMdSeq3W1AHzhPkyAJOOaG0xt7idQ0SLNcw_A-zEO7jtOinVGeLKVgBc8zggKytvFLaCftCVRH_7SuLR3fawHHrCzgCJ8BLI06q4UW4UMG9Eu081tN8Eak7Z/s320/P1170405.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428902358011216050" /></a><br />We head out towards our next stop in Tapachula and for a while share the road with some cattle.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQgD3v7PqMjmTQjwgH2Ag3VevIERvNNZUBJo6kt3FYR4f8qq6yVV1g92ZJb2fMBq6LXJvrNrtKXTtDY9UzpEhGtstQCC7mGMwdN5pYIGkjLM8MqcSDismgTaj5dZCEhqLf5JrujV_CUAG2/s1600-h/P1170413.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQgD3v7PqMjmTQjwgH2Ag3VevIERvNNZUBJo6kt3FYR4f8qq6yVV1g92ZJb2fMBq6LXJvrNrtKXTtDY9UzpEhGtstQCC7mGMwdN5pYIGkjLM8MqcSDismgTaj5dZCEhqLf5JrujV_CUAG2/s320/P1170413.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428902482138258834" /></a><br />We see that the Mexican government is taking advantage of the high winds as we pass a farm with hundred of wind turbines.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaHckf8ipt1NKiAzsk74OXESLm3G4ixbEL0wmfgzanl5emNgrk3b9pbkYDL26BfrQGS1WlCq7fnCNvhjNuh7c1s_vRKjltv5zElG9GfLPQLJMDH1dp3vKbaHSX_hKSS0kW2AKKXNlCPpaz/s1600-h/P1170418.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaHckf8ipt1NKiAzsk74OXESLm3G4ixbEL0wmfgzanl5emNgrk3b9pbkYDL26BfrQGS1WlCq7fnCNvhjNuh7c1s_vRKjltv5zElG9GfLPQLJMDH1dp3vKbaHSX_hKSS0kW2AKKXNlCPpaz/s320/P1170418.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428902621275853042" /></a><br />We ran into a couple of Brits who have cycled all the way from Prudhoe Bay – they will stop in Panama. Another group of Brits, to whom they are affiliated, will head from Panama to Tierra del Fuego. I can’t imagine doing this on bicycles – they have already been on the road five months and have another five months to go. Mexican roads do not have bike lanes so trucks are passing inches from their handlebars. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjpxxAuv8d4FocCCIAg4Y4k-8MI6JKtQw9CxOFCCw3LFa0IXKgT0rc1xyTGOVOF0HUJ7lsejSh_00gJ_lJA-oD21q7Dh_g9wDtdqz8GRomiZnvoMcT1eJ9rGnnDfTVXW9GKIYVU0oljUKk/s1600-h/P1170427.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjpxxAuv8d4FocCCIAg4Y4k-8MI6JKtQw9CxOFCCw3LFa0IXKgT0rc1xyTGOVOF0HUJ7lsejSh_00gJ_lJA-oD21q7Dh_g9wDtdqz8GRomiZnvoMcT1eJ9rGnnDfTVXW9GKIYVU0oljUKk/s320/P1170427.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428902776289336258" /></a><br />On this section of the ride my motorcycle begins skipping and then stops. It will run for 10 minutes then stop and when it cools it will run for another 5-10 minutes then stop again. It seems like a fuel flow problem but a mysterious one – the same sort of mysterious problem happened to me on the Silk Road on a different motorcycle. We drain the fuel and we have the same problem. Finally Helge concludes that we need to take the motorcycle apart and we find a partially loose connector in a heat sink area. We hypothesize that as the fuel pump runs, the heat sink increases in temperature and something inside expands acting as a shut-off switch. With the connector back in place and the bike reassembled, everything is running as it should.<br /><br />Helge cuts a hole in the fender to permit even more air flow (not as evil as he appears in this picture)<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjob41YCDq1v4YkWha-dg5L9nuYja_mcXwyhD_DGfl-dtXDLkZu3GjqLEit8URfIUdRwbYCiq8UlMzmbgzTJaeEp7tdASkIoZrgv21c80vSzKdHUpF1n-eKoXnRIwwatOOpArfyyc_9vook/s1600-h/P1170431.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjob41YCDq1v4YkWha-dg5L9nuYja_mcXwyhD_DGfl-dtXDLkZu3GjqLEit8URfIUdRwbYCiq8UlMzmbgzTJaeEp7tdASkIoZrgv21c80vSzKdHUpF1n-eKoXnRIwwatOOpArfyyc_9vook/s320/P1170431.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428902941618767010" /></a><br />We arrive at the Holiday Inn in Tapachula were Harriet has forwarded Roger’s title for his bike (Marge had brought along Roger’s original title - - the copy of which posed a problem crossing the border into Mexico). Unfortunately, we left Harriet’s without the title and she sent it via DHL-Mexico to hopefully arrive today (we will need it when crossing the border into Guatemala).<br /><br />We will leave Mexico tomorrow and I wanted to reflect a bit on our experience. <br /><br />The People<br />Everyone we’ve met has been friendly, from government officials to peasants to business men. They are willing to help, smile and are happy to see us. Some feel threatened by the American way of life and the American pace but they like Americans. The issue of violence is overplayed in the American press – it does not significantly affect US citizens visiting Mexico.<br /><br />Drugs & Politics<br />Felipe Calderon, Mexico’s president of the PAN party, has a strong anti-drug agenda in place. But this agenda is in jeopardy even though he has a 70% approval rating, the PRI party (the party that lead Mexico for 40 years before the PAN party gained control with Fox and Calderon) has regained more seats in the lower house (probably due to lower tourist revenues, lower tax receipts and the requirement for a smaller national budget). The people I met at Harry’s bar suggest that Calderon’s anti-drug interest is aligned with the US but also will help decrease revenues that the PRI derives indirectly from drug trafficking. In general Mexicans are not sympathetic to America’s appetite for drugs and are not happy with the 1,000 of Mexicans killed each year in drug wars. If Calderon is replaced with a PRI president, it is likely that the aggressive anti drug campaign will be sacrificed (a bigger drug problem for the US and could herald a move towards the type of lawlessness present in Columbia 10 or more years ago).<br /><br />Economics<br />Mexico has a GDP per person of $13,900 compared to $4,900 in China, $8,200 in Columbia, 11,600 in Turkey and $46,300 in the US. With 111 million people, it is a big prosperous country with an advanced economy – by far the leading economy in the America’s south of the US border. NAFTA has worked for both Mexico and the US. Since NAFTA the two-way trade between the US and Mexico grew from $81 billion in 1993 to $231 billion in 2002. Mexico now has a $32 billion trade surplus. NAFTA’s promise to Mexico was that it would export “goods and not people” and in the 15 years under NAFTA Mexico’s exports have quintupled to $292 billion. Until last year, they were still exporting a half million people per year seeking employment in the US. <br /><br />The largest pressure has been on Mexican farmers who cannot compete with large, efficient US farms that produce staple crops like wheat. 22% of Mexico’s labor force works in agriculture but it generates only 4.4% of the GDP. Mexican agriculture is notoriously inefficient – 50% of Mexico’s farmers till plots that are less than 15-20 acres and earn less than 1/3 of their income from agriculture. The good news is that 20% of Mexico’s GDP is attributable to trade made possible by NAFTA provision.<br /><br />The US is graced with only two big neighbors and it is terribly important that they both remain healthy.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-70786026742568234222010-01-18T07:04:00.000-08:002010-01-18T07:18:58.217-08:00Day 10 – January 14We had a fascinating stay in San Miguel – Harriet and Derek’s hospitality was superb and we thoroughly enjoyed their friends. We wanted to stay longer, but Helge has us on a “forced march” itinerary. It was great to see Marge - - she turned out to be a godsend for the trip – not only did she bring the new spring for the shock absorber on my motorcycle, but we were able to leave an entire suitcase of extra stuff with her that we shouldn’t have brought along. With any long trip such as this it’s smart to take at least a one-week pre-trip to determine all that you will need - - I clearly had not taken enough of a shakedown trip or done enough prior planning.<br />Our bikes in Harriet’s Courtyard<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgShkVckbIqc3nGTh-Ix2rzu-2eVLZ-NBJih0MAt9-EqKdKg0yWk1CrOHlyjn5mcxjCx37MizG6IS3QsydvTAzppsCScMr3h-h-Aw7XHfO1sYOTVyxbguxO3lcsX21C4BGgO9fLXjsPxv0M/s1600-h/DSC02736.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgShkVckbIqc3nGTh-Ix2rzu-2eVLZ-NBJih0MAt9-EqKdKg0yWk1CrOHlyjn5mcxjCx37MizG6IS3QsydvTAzppsCScMr3h-h-Aw7XHfO1sYOTVyxbguxO3lcsX21C4BGgO9fLXjsPxv0M/s320/DSC02736.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428096595423537970" /></a><br />It rained last night which made the San Miguel cobblestones treacherous for motorcycles – the roads are made with rounded brook stones six-eight inches in diameter and this combined with the steep descents and inclines makes even walking challenging.<br /><br />We have 250 miles to cover between San Miguel and Taxco bypassing the nasty Mexico City traffic. <br />Determining our route<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh46wR6S_sxzmXcFPAIPG0qFhuOsW7xt9wo5jK7JMoMkbsm_BmNPYUV2GtELwQiGynbJ5YMkNnhievKGXbhFKfhw-K39C6E772UN7O-YD3vA2IfQzfQOnooeBqBU2N1ZvP3SD7BKCCma1fR/s1600-h/DSC02737.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh46wR6S_sxzmXcFPAIPG0qFhuOsW7xt9wo5jK7JMoMkbsm_BmNPYUV2GtELwQiGynbJ5YMkNnhievKGXbhFKfhw-K39C6E772UN7O-YD3vA2IfQzfQOnooeBqBU2N1ZvP3SD7BKCCma1fR/s320/DSC02737.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428096751164293138" /></a><br />Modern Mexican Gas Station Convenience Store<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4kKwIE_TgfgwUMUc_LqK80RfQ7gPYnUl8MSr7BIU2GKYZSJlQKftnY5No5E4LlyTTvUb3y7ZpsXgpSBRLyCEAye7oAQSAedaB7D7Dqk9wE72-d0fGcgeDipae430JE-mIUEiw6v_cLLwf/s1600-h/P1140340.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4kKwIE_TgfgwUMUc_LqK80RfQ7gPYnUl8MSr7BIU2GKYZSJlQKftnY5No5E4LlyTTvUb3y7ZpsXgpSBRLyCEAye7oAQSAedaB7D7Dqk9wE72-d0fGcgeDipae430JE-mIUEiw6v_cLLwf/s320/P1140340.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428096856886656178" /></a><br />Our schedule did not allow a visit to Mary Tyler Moore, my dad’s Mexican half sister, nor my cousins in Mexico City. Ideally, that trip will happen when I can bring the rest of the family along. <br /><br />Half of this current stretch is at altitudes of 7,000-8,000 feet with a much different eco-system than previously encountered. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNg5EHxpGrFSBTuzYckkKsF53lrJ0B-1GS-UeBRVEzM5WyTubkI5xhI67oyvov53XE3F3_ZKts7aY6MjVNAc6A8fUmHhLVgGYrPrzKJAed7py8YYnjGFnYPJMO-_TLelDibYa7HsDx7pIY/s1600-h/P1140341.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNg5EHxpGrFSBTuzYckkKsF53lrJ0B-1GS-UeBRVEzM5WyTubkI5xhI67oyvov53XE3F3_ZKts7aY6MjVNAc6A8fUmHhLVgGYrPrzKJAed7py8YYnjGFnYPJMO-_TLelDibYa7HsDx7pIY/s320/P1140341.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428097045456606562" /></a><br />We also came upon our first snow covered mountains.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipxMOnMVH4yIfnJBeZDxT7ufNR7aboPMhvwALiPLbTs_zoiFhQkwhJnjURuCdVK7AbUOhW68-fZRVvbO8HwrH235zl-C3iSW0QOz0-1T_CKzoKeseWlEfUuHpfo98-PxVIOTFdhNOmqa10/s1600-h/P1140345.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipxMOnMVH4yIfnJBeZDxT7ufNR7aboPMhvwALiPLbTs_zoiFhQkwhJnjURuCdVK7AbUOhW68-fZRVvbO8HwrH235zl-C3iSW0QOz0-1T_CKzoKeseWlEfUuHpfo98-PxVIOTFdhNOmqa10/s320/P1140345.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428097240651375410" /></a><br />The mountains in Mexico are mostly volcanic – here is a view of one.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSza9vvAEZL93hxu8YZ_iYvPPsEKEA28MOFFoxgbtIVpYqO0CRX2hpaPxwdCYepVl3Q2uC6Fd4_ujkruD40pvQHnT4dIFYgV-TOaNWVkQt8k_e7FwgxHXYMP1hTxB4mDzh2a0RhEjAsYIn/s1600-h/P1150357.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSza9vvAEZL93hxu8YZ_iYvPPsEKEA28MOFFoxgbtIVpYqO0CRX2hpaPxwdCYepVl3Q2uC6Fd4_ujkruD40pvQHnT4dIFYgV-TOaNWVkQt8k_e7FwgxHXYMP1hTxB4mDzh2a0RhEjAsYIn/s320/P1150357.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428097783433214418" /></a><br />There were significant farms at these high altitudes with running streams, corn and other vegetables and big healthy trees. I am still marveling at the tremendous differences between the dry Baja and the rest of Mexico and these lush fields.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioVXkeoP6V_SPBuu2UUwsOSA5htkEWQXwRYrkgGkmvUN0HPe8OIceJIzauhjjjOG6_lcw_Tky1NLZ-rl2z3zJ7yksvV4sVgCgna8CvcN4B2cAvmbcgB_h864g_7NzXmNbDy9goekbcT_5H/s1600-h/P1140342.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioVXkeoP6V_SPBuu2UUwsOSA5htkEWQXwRYrkgGkmvUN0HPe8OIceJIzauhjjjOG6_lcw_Tky1NLZ-rl2z3zJ7yksvV4sVgCgna8CvcN4B2cAvmbcgB_h864g_7NzXmNbDy9goekbcT_5H/s320/P1140342.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428098018593427314" /></a><br />At one point there was a two-mile traffic jam apparently caused when large 40-foot semis squeezed onto this tiny mountain road. <br />Prelude to the major traffic jam<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjLLK7TTX3OcRGPzBtWuUfsFJFm6c29J1KWO6VSuDQvrgwfgDq5BiaeT3-v6YqHT6t1sg0J4eVk8vMh2e6l091DEIl6tnbsB1PZzLVZcaSanxhk0RvX4v_JbK5VA6X3WamMWDdGTGkiPI/s1600-h/P1140348.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjLLK7TTX3OcRGPzBtWuUfsFJFm6c29J1KWO6VSuDQvrgwfgDq5BiaeT3-v6YqHT6t1sg0J4eVk8vMh2e6l091DEIl6tnbsB1PZzLVZcaSanxhk0RvX4v_JbK5VA6X3WamMWDdGTGkiPI/s320/P1140348.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428098368294443634" /></a><br />Helge maneuvered between trucks and cars, dodging oncoming traffic to work his way to the head of the line and find a bypass around the blockage. I would expect that this gridlock lasted most of the day.<br /><br />We rode through a town lined with street vendors – this man was holding up a well-endowed sweater and quickly ducked behind it when he saw my camera (Mexicans are generally modest).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_UclRr5q9H31Kg9eCGF2tjsqMQ3NDhh1vQpG-leSMMG0EWIzTC2PwSVUKVSibm6BK3Ss38knRMMMNTrSP-z45T_Wa3jUtkJih3fbgMILS8tXXfBiDoH6bm_RuYmSSyECmN2ScbecaJBOb/s1600-h/P1140353.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_UclRr5q9H31Kg9eCGF2tjsqMQ3NDhh1vQpG-leSMMG0EWIzTC2PwSVUKVSibm6BK3Ss38knRMMMNTrSP-z45T_Wa3jUtkJih3fbgMILS8tXXfBiDoH6bm_RuYmSSyECmN2ScbecaJBOb/s320/P1140353.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428098526273690402" /></a><br />Yet another issue with my motorcycle – the HP2 does not have a balance shaft which causes it to vibrate substantially more than the standard BMW Adventurer. I discovered that one of the three bolts had vibrated out of the kickstand causing the two remaining bolts to bend. So now to park the motorcycle I have to lean it against something – not real convenient.<br /><br />My bike troubles thus far: a broken kickstand, fasteners which have vibrated out of the windshield, insufficient shock absorber spring, a stance on the bike which crouches backward and changes the rake and the trail of the front suspension and the leather-covered seat absorbs water. In addition it’s difficult to take pictures on the fly – I need to have a sheath to securely hold a camera which is easy to access even when wearing gloves. Helge has this well figured out with a helmet mounted camera that can take stills and video.<br /><br />Side note – at some point I was served some fish soup for lunch that was so strong that the one teaspoon I had upset my stomach for days.<br /><br />We arrived in Taxco, a beautiful silver mining town, with San Miguel-type houses tightly packed together. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNM58CBR4FCpbzY_tocTHrvJ6NAWKnelgcBbs1k3rmSC4FwjPYarlielPUJboKdxBf18bpq5rw7tzxfYBm9XOn4k82lvuz28Z7TeP-vdOTxvko0lRi4nka6o9P7P2izQAYuHMBsd99SMsj/s1600-h/P1140356.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNM58CBR4FCpbzY_tocTHrvJ6NAWKnelgcBbs1k3rmSC4FwjPYarlielPUJboKdxBf18bpq5rw7tzxfYBm9XOn4k82lvuz28Z7TeP-vdOTxvko0lRi4nka6o9P7P2izQAYuHMBsd99SMsj/s320/P1140356.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428099012887246210" /></a><br />The city is heavily associated with silver, both with the mining of it and other metals and for the crafting of it into jewelry, silverware and other items. This reputation, along with the city’s picturesque homes and surrounding landscapes have made tourism the main economic activity as the only large-scale mining operation here is coming to a close.<br /><br />Everything is walled with no yards visible from the street. Our hotel is on the quaint town square, filled with people young and old, a band playing and boys and girls holding hands and snuggling. I was wondering if our public square in Cleveland could ever have this ambience and be a go-to location. We agreed that the culture of hanging-out on a public square was something South American and European – only rarely American.<br /><br />We sent off one of the hotel personnel to locate some replacement bolts for my motorcycle and he returned an hour later with everything I needed. They are hardened cap screws of a specific length – easily found in Cleveland (Seitz-Agin or Sutton’s) – but I was astounded that they could be found in a small town such as this. I will install the new bolts early tomorrow.<br /><br />We had dinner at a restaurant overlooking the square and I turned in around 9:00 p.m. When I awoke at 2:00 a.m. there was still activity and music in the square.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-73970118841099765792010-01-18T06:52:00.000-08:002010-01-18T07:04:13.563-08:00Day 9 – January 13We started the day by changing out the spring on my rear shock absorber. Vincent pulled the shock out in only 15 minutes and we ended up using a moderately heavy spring replacement. We couldn’t use the entire shock assembly because it made the bike too high (I like to be able to touch me feet flatly on the ground and with the new shock assembly I would have been on tip-toes).<br /><br />It poured rain last night and my fancy leather covering on my seat absorbed a lot of water (it’s going to be a wet fanny for a while). I swapped GPS’s with Vince – so I will now presumably be able to follow the route more effectively.<br /><br />We did a quick tour of San Miguel first stopping at Harriet’s art school and saw some of the sculptures on which Harriet is working. The teacher was sick so we didn’t hear from him but there were a number of students working on projects.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvJ-kyoRBrjpEPhseeFR5ofZf0NDBQNtGcJuCiv8gzemlqn0wjKI2ujhvtXPhQBIDZHZrTXCKQWRCzjY574zBSI6Pay-FMoIOh9uE_VE9ueLjJWOv_Ahvf9tcW5kcxdi5l-qPp5QiOkW5R/s1600-h/DSC02697.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvJ-kyoRBrjpEPhseeFR5ofZf0NDBQNtGcJuCiv8gzemlqn0wjKI2ujhvtXPhQBIDZHZrTXCKQWRCzjY574zBSI6Pay-FMoIOh9uE_VE9ueLjJWOv_Ahvf9tcW5kcxdi5l-qPp5QiOkW5R/s320/DSC02697.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428093978753340290" /></a><br />The school was an attractive structure and it’s a wonderful place to study.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6aDNoPWzR4BDSGx6xn0REYDdBGTACiVq3zLJM1Tmqe2-zWP9mG8BUHjHr2jZj6dVDjhU2uEEiljhX0efzyfT9ByH_owlBG76Sx9D8IlRHzYbcEvaXeiq4R0CS1-kqZkwwljWXAH8PESXT/s1600-h/DSC02693.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6aDNoPWzR4BDSGx6xn0REYDdBGTACiVq3zLJM1Tmqe2-zWP9mG8BUHjHr2jZj6dVDjhU2uEEiljhX0efzyfT9ByH_owlBG76Sx9D8IlRHzYbcEvaXeiq4R0CS1-kqZkwwljWXAH8PESXT/s320/DSC02693.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428094226939230578" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc5_Q3YEhxB6jrdYIEBdYqgeC5m91D5Tw0AjfbEW-I38s0irySYd1mrlme3adCiQDsxf9-wlh72LA6y_9kFlaUGo_YPVHY1G34n_n1JJInzFc5XmLwRd7BfofWHXiNE5UXgtXSrQCdQ4c7/s1600-h/DSC02698.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc5_Q3YEhxB6jrdYIEBdYqgeC5m91D5Tw0AjfbEW-I38s0irySYd1mrlme3adCiQDsxf9-wlh72LA6y_9kFlaUGo_YPVHY1G34n_n1JJInzFc5XmLwRd7BfofWHXiNE5UXgtXSrQCdQ4c7/s320/DSC02698.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428094153128241410" /></a><br />We went on to the institute where Harriet has a series of pictures on show – extraordinary vivid colors with a cubic feel to them. She shares this space with some exceptional artists.<br />We then went to the botanical gardens – high on a hill overlooking San Miguel. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimHxb5yi-xZC0iRx_gNggLYaPM3x0UxVxZZ26nAMaPvWq8QtfvW1HGzxog9iqmC-KjU-uy4s-0uFgr9LIAjmJkrWRDwTnNPafdqmRAypjXLvCc4xwBJ1luEYdhG6wVWeBoisbxOZ4yvNhS/s1600-h/DSC02720.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimHxb5yi-xZC0iRx_gNggLYaPM3x0UxVxZZ26nAMaPvWq8QtfvW1HGzxog9iqmC-KjU-uy4s-0uFgr9LIAjmJkrWRDwTnNPafdqmRAypjXLvCc4xwBJ1luEYdhG6wVWeBoisbxOZ4yvNhS/s320/DSC02720.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428094712818285186" /></a><br />The gardens feature mainly desert plants like prickly pears.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE74K-9DIyN9NdKIacv0h5hbHtOqaeF04NG7HhHnQzhLmEdeEZ5xCEeGH4psef_7KN5NmWcYTZ_wuHqVfMNKvwBgblLrRc0gNLrIA7QoRo7yq6CsoEiEZXEd5-1_TU0iqMpx_2rZZMPTgr/s1600-h/DSC02719.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE74K-9DIyN9NdKIacv0h5hbHtOqaeF04NG7HhHnQzhLmEdeEZ5xCEeGH4psef_7KN5NmWcYTZ_wuHqVfMNKvwBgblLrRc0gNLrIA7QoRo7yq6CsoEiEZXEd5-1_TU0iqMpx_2rZZMPTgr/s320/DSC02719.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428094853066763986" /></a><br />A collection of trees and cactus:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ZzC4y7WNbqUqUiX-cxqpOTXZdlvu5iMMjwwd5hplvyy6fgkqqFCfnbOx686aWBJueVJOEdK3hrJz2c__Z4iYZ11HZfIjDvLzBtnqoKJgO12qNNd5pZ-hFEXc0aNQ7z64pX9aF4bcIEMs/s1600-h/DSC02717.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ZzC4y7WNbqUqUiX-cxqpOTXZdlvu5iMMjwwd5hplvyy6fgkqqFCfnbOx686aWBJueVJOEdK3hrJz2c__Z4iYZ11HZfIjDvLzBtnqoKJgO12qNNd5pZ-hFEXc0aNQ7z64pX9aF4bcIEMs/s320/DSC02717.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428094977760362850" /></a><br />And one of the nasty little cactuses that deposited a quill in my leg through my leathers:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpO52t9rg0GOM0dDQv8XuO4ot_GZ6TiF-LF3yWolfCqmuzrPVfhSPWWKDShqeZ-KDnA49jsQkBr58-Go_i6nGPv2k426ry5zkOukicF98x_wR4IejgHANQnEUmNyoN_SmuhYvL0UKABNQo/s1600-h/DSC02716.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpO52t9rg0GOM0dDQv8XuO4ot_GZ6TiF-LF3yWolfCqmuzrPVfhSPWWKDShqeZ-KDnA49jsQkBr58-Go_i6nGPv2k426ry5zkOukicF98x_wR4IejgHANQnEUmNyoN_SmuhYvL0UKABNQo/s320/DSC02716.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428095093401820114" /></a><br />Harriet had a cocktail party tonight with a variety of interesting people – including some Clevelanders, Ali Eilers, Bill Edwards, and Dave and Sandy White, in addition to a bunch of Derek’s friends from Stonington CT. They were a group of vibrant and active people, a number of whom spend part of the year in San Miguel and others, natives of Mexico City, and this is their “country place.”Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-23220819987330453162010-01-14T07:24:00.000-08:002010-01-14T07:43:14.819-08:00Day 8 - January 12We left Zacatecas and headed towards San Miguel. It was 36 degrees with heavy fog at the time and my 5 layers of clothing was still insufficient - - 36 degrees at 80 mph – I hate to think what the windchill is. To make matters even worse, it was drizzling – the first rain we had seen.<br />We stopped for breakfast leaving Helge behind to reconnoiter good places to stay in Zacatecas. I took off a couple layers of clothes and switched to electrically heated clothing which provided much needed warmth to my hands and chest - - what a spectacular innovation – I’m so glad I brought them along. I was not able to take pictures during this time due to the cold or the camera being hidden under too many clothes or being unable to manage the camera with the bulky electrically heated gloves. <br />Roger successfully led us out of the city using his GPS but it was clear that we couldn’t let a day go by without getting lost. We headed overland, generally towards San Miguel, and soon arrived in this beautiful medieval looking city reminiscent of small villages in France and Germany. We followed the GPS to where Harriet’s house was supposed to be and found it to be only about 100 yards off. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtmqYFk4yA0POyOkFGn7fsJhAo34OKQeMEnjZRWKA_OP491koGlzWDUNCas3Zw8-cnhNKJpyBvqmcCAuvNrR0-V0VXrwUtPyyJQSvc2VeEdICqbTgponrOn0V9EVqZ8q3TUXA37c_7lwtw/s1600-h/CQ8C0364.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtmqYFk4yA0POyOkFGn7fsJhAo34OKQeMEnjZRWKA_OP491koGlzWDUNCas3Zw8-cnhNKJpyBvqmcCAuvNrR0-V0VXrwUtPyyJQSvc2VeEdICqbTgponrOn0V9EVqZ8q3TUXA37c_7lwtw/s320/CQ8C0364.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426618169999456466" /></a><br />We parked the motorcycles in a beautiful courtyard and went inside to see the splendor of Harriet’s San Miguel house. She has worked on it for nearly 25 years and it is a smashing success. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhir6OhRODT9VcEAlqRx1sSASt0-yMeylDqJ3ysVO7TtJJa4Y0E0hVAtNWduUMkYas5_FsIdqyyop4HG9_RfifRfCRWI24sRYMIEJdK-xJ5rihYt6mgybBB2qrklqjn9k6JzAguTxxqEqEK/s1600-h/DSC02723.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhir6OhRODT9VcEAlqRx1sSASt0-yMeylDqJ3ysVO7TtJJa4Y0E0hVAtNWduUMkYas5_FsIdqyyop4HG9_RfifRfCRWI24sRYMIEJdK-xJ5rihYt6mgybBB2qrklqjn9k6JzAguTxxqEqEK/s320/DSC02723.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426618367773056514" /></a><br />There are a number of beautiful rooms with fancy windows and six bedrooms each with a king size bed.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr_TbUGOtNnOZbgkiKpj32vBSBTICHvzRvn1XgrfYT8sQenRNm2ok3O7MEdAK3NtBn0POh79qEVSE6IZnFEV4TfJCCNA2zhJRYqTtUTDzxqwtsk7EhYAvoLTnwWUtoJ5tQZeCKxSSSI2aZ/s1600-h/DSC02728.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr_TbUGOtNnOZbgkiKpj32vBSBTICHvzRvn1XgrfYT8sQenRNm2ok3O7MEdAK3NtBn0POh79qEVSE6IZnFEV4TfJCCNA2zhJRYqTtUTDzxqwtsk7EhYAvoLTnwWUtoJ5tQZeCKxSSSI2aZ/s320/DSC02728.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426618506871521186" /></a><br />Fabulous detail – here is a tub which appears about 4 feet deep with magnificent tile.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2L511maPBmZVNNBUgqsolBTVj9zVWYHJoM9kCywFOPXB_mspa58gWKMFXXyX0Ug5RHoguDzoRlffmizEQHyFGaGdvKj2OBNc72svXiBulWDK8fL3x_mnOGU_OfdyuM-hMjbmr3UkDzOS/s1600-h/DSC02729.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2L511maPBmZVNNBUgqsolBTVj9zVWYHJoM9kCywFOPXB_mspa58gWKMFXXyX0Ug5RHoguDzoRlffmizEQHyFGaGdvKj2OBNc72svXiBulWDK8fL3x_mnOGU_OfdyuM-hMjbmr3UkDzOS/s320/DSC02729.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426618890844011570" /></a><br />And an architectural feature built into the house that looks down into a mini archeology discovery.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDjkK6pVMvgbLTvIp6ebMG-C1assJU-Kdf4miyfiDCiZZ-wAoJaDgoCa6__5zndzsOM4ks7ullwXxo74fN5l7pKlerObPbv_hAITf55fId2xMqIlOTfVBMurzNKNmRb5-m8vpfEmQ6dqK5/s1600-h/DSC02732.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDjkK6pVMvgbLTvIp6ebMG-C1assJU-Kdf4miyfiDCiZZ-wAoJaDgoCa6__5zndzsOM4ks7ullwXxo74fN5l7pKlerObPbv_hAITf55fId2xMqIlOTfVBMurzNKNmRb5-m8vpfEmQ6dqK5/s320/DSC02732.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426619021054509298" /></a><br />The house is horseshoe shaped with a beautiful garden in the middle. It surrounds another small house.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2kgXxAN9J52vrlaYDc-cqkgV97JLP80OhCv-CTKRWE_eN3o6qrBZUPmi5AEED_D2wz90uJ4Tysas9F6HzGQh__zRGzpxQhXvcwpGe7XUwLJIORGrcTQY_1BJ0uIi47KVZB_AEHSh3sJiT/s1600-h/DSC02730.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2kgXxAN9J52vrlaYDc-cqkgV97JLP80OhCv-CTKRWE_eN3o6qrBZUPmi5AEED_D2wz90uJ4Tysas9F6HzGQh__zRGzpxQhXvcwpGe7XUwLJIORGrcTQY_1BJ0uIi47KVZB_AEHSh3sJiT/s320/DSC02730.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426619455625625730" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYFo_YAt261FVDXJiI_nu5H8Mv2Oa8_pXpLELdFU5xaeAFMvNvuh_uMIzgO0EzpYPhatx_azAERUW5ycUMYo7c_EG3SsMJPOzGj8WL_9SU6B-Plt-1vEJF3pFlquyiGVE1dCTFNBx73ou/s1600-h/DSC02727.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYFo_YAt261FVDXJiI_nu5H8Mv2Oa8_pXpLELdFU5xaeAFMvNvuh_uMIzgO0EzpYPhatx_azAERUW5ycUMYo7c_EG3SsMJPOzGj8WL_9SU6B-Plt-1vEJF3pFlquyiGVE1dCTFNBx73ou/s320/DSC02727.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426619386914975954" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKjjG5ofwPNFb7zHFNjlfwPjcFbydNI5ZTfo0gCFs5Pk8cL2TklUN8sLU6hcF_Ve1OPvjZMDXlFjL8BxiHd5CkrMA11DxX-iM-s1-CBc7yNxW4ZFfl1Lzrqup89d7ad9ydwtTaook5j47W/s1600-h/DSC02726.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKjjG5ofwPNFb7zHFNjlfwPjcFbydNI5ZTfo0gCFs5Pk8cL2TklUN8sLU6hcF_Ve1OPvjZMDXlFjL8BxiHd5CkrMA11DxX-iM-s1-CBc7yNxW4ZFfl1Lzrqup89d7ad9ydwtTaook5j47W/s320/DSC02726.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426619329647776002" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgghJ4M88hheXBpKJyb3Zd7FrFpXwG6sc8LwwPQ-2YKhI783kmh_scPG9YOnDZ9eGOc2zDjyRYTirI0SRgVP1N82zDaW0s33hlGQ3n2X3vk2gz8hp3_Hb-STgYHwKHYp7pe2n244lM1rF9-/s1600-h/DSC02725.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgghJ4M88hheXBpKJyb3Zd7FrFpXwG6sc8LwwPQ-2YKhI783kmh_scPG9YOnDZ9eGOc2zDjyRYTirI0SRgVP1N82zDaW0s33hlGQ3n2X3vk2gz8hp3_Hb-STgYHwKHYp7pe2n244lM1rF9-/s320/DSC02725.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426619241813687618" /></a><br />In the garden there is a large fountain that Harriet made which can be run with heated water and doubles as a bathtub.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqQDUB8pHebknNEQreAZM-A5eNWybN-3DSqJ1rb-FbJ5v2Ss4tOYQmNsUGbLPGWxMgncHPWIxpk2nRbVcQzQM51gXp3pjwl0juMu5rpWNQgbNuEK5dXtK2CtnJrVKYweo4bE15YMKTU8DT/s1600-h/DSC02724.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqQDUB8pHebknNEQreAZM-A5eNWybN-3DSqJ1rb-FbJ5v2Ss4tOYQmNsUGbLPGWxMgncHPWIxpk2nRbVcQzQM51gXp3pjwl0juMu5rpWNQgbNuEK5dXtK2CtnJrVKYweo4bE15YMKTU8DT/s320/DSC02724.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426619750631092146" /></a><br />Derek made the fitting comment that the house is very much like Harriet’s paintings with an enormous amount of detail, small alcoves with statues, a number of Harriet’s and other artists’ work scattered about, domed ceilings with elaborate brickwork and arches on four sides. The level of detail is far beyond anything that I would be capable of. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz-IvgfrtKaeEcqMeRP2nIXM2Wl1CQH0-fSTXhNhqrHAWPhUc_G9_5jBToXrymtQN-alt8NqzxzLxN3ODTkaAwLeWbXNhuaKiOGppMez_tZNGp2GCNYPyUGv_wtoudxNABOIllRBIoZExk/s1600-h/CQ8C0536.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz-IvgfrtKaeEcqMeRP2nIXM2Wl1CQH0-fSTXhNhqrHAWPhUc_G9_5jBToXrymtQN-alt8NqzxzLxN3ODTkaAwLeWbXNhuaKiOGppMez_tZNGp2GCNYPyUGv_wtoudxNABOIllRBIoZExk/s320/CQ8C0536.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426619999782022578" /></a><br />That evening we had drinks at Harry’s Bar – a hangout for ex-pats and other foreigners from all over. We stopped for dinner at a restaurant owned by one of Harriet’s friends and had a delightful time. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoN0Ks2iMpbKOPr5Jhw-JLI_Wlafd8P6rtMEjEcAIaXL9hkzlxifRRbmggK6VHd6hyiXu4nH5Bj2zGBadXZqFDUXByhEnDWSKVEEcQBKspFCiG02ticPN3rrxh_PeF30nPE1Gbn-tR8Eok/s1600-h/P1120334.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoN0Ks2iMpbKOPr5Jhw-JLI_Wlafd8P6rtMEjEcAIaXL9hkzlxifRRbmggK6VHd6hyiXu4nH5Bj2zGBadXZqFDUXByhEnDWSKVEEcQBKspFCiG02ticPN3rrxh_PeF30nPE1Gbn-tR8Eok/s320/P1120334.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426620195924744914" /></a><br />Helge ran into another adventure motorcycle guide and regaled us with old times. At 6:30 there was hardly a seat available in the place.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHrmtY_ggGUX9pmVdJqm54egvPnVUMz8IqQ0XFC_NCkVXjjM4ub-jnX9r4XjgBf37QpF7Gh8jQ8CXDPjhInVePRkuXugvqbubGqBrFZsHJdr95TMPTHlkjynwJ5zpWggEz8bkruDIIzM1I/s1600-h/P1120335.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHrmtY_ggGUX9pmVdJqm54egvPnVUMz8IqQ0XFC_NCkVXjjM4ub-jnX9r4XjgBf37QpF7Gh8jQ8CXDPjhInVePRkuXugvqbubGqBrFZsHJdr95TMPTHlkjynwJ5zpWggEz8bkruDIIzM1I/s320/P1120335.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426620335874551794" /></a>Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-24382342570822400672010-01-13T13:24:00.000-08:002010-01-13T13:28:44.970-08:00Day 7 – January 11The ferry arrived in Mazatlán where we gassed up the bikes. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIC145ydEYDikBMA1mcHmlq-fE0YA4-5m-TL_VdVKp9C4C0IaD14fGMrlY4srkPl4tnTAgFe-5ep5g-woUqIW4vlZfjYxgrrhFUV5y9cFf-onvCjdvUKUyP5xhwJGWEB38Y-4V2PwglL-o/s1600-h/P1110320.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIC145ydEYDikBMA1mcHmlq-fE0YA4-5m-TL_VdVKp9C4C0IaD14fGMrlY4srkPl4tnTAgFe-5ep5g-woUqIW4vlZfjYxgrrhFUV5y9cFf-onvCjdvUKUyP5xhwJGWEB38Y-4V2PwglL-o/s320/P1110320.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426338885619397794" /></a><br />Pulling out of the gas station, I narrowly missed being clipped by a car. I was assuming that it was a one-way street – bad guess. This was the first close call of the trip and a good reminder that there is never a reason to rush and of the key safety points of motorcycling:<br />1)Always know what’s behind you – don’t do anything if you can’t see clearly<br />2)Look far ahead – even on tight corners<br />3)Don’t look at obstacles such as trees on the side of the road or cars coming at you – look at the space in between<br />4)Allow significant distance – more than 20 feet per 10 mph<br />5)When passing, look at the front tire of the car to determine quickly if the car is changing direction<br /><br />We set out on Route 40 heading east over the mountains. Following the GPS on a beautiful super highway we came to a place where the road just stopped in front of a hillside – no warnings, the road just ended. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV5U5r5CQiuhfA-WCNbwBJfFW70JsXrvgMbMwqEaeZdVHL9XbZSgSYiIHEXouVDRxoyGhdC556hHkD-_bqvjBWaUD0q9lCa0MR-6wKLjtqvJLsnkw_RSCj7E0wlMSAMjZoosg98LIYLWxE/s1600-h/P1110323.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV5U5r5CQiuhfA-WCNbwBJfFW70JsXrvgMbMwqEaeZdVHL9XbZSgSYiIHEXouVDRxoyGhdC556hHkD-_bqvjBWaUD0q9lCa0MR-6wKLjtqvJLsnkw_RSCj7E0wlMSAMjZoosg98LIYLWxE/s320/P1110323.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426339011380944226" /></a><br />Turns out there are several Route 40s – but more on this later.<br />We headed over the mountains toward Durango and experienced the most exciting and extraordinary paved mountain riding I have ever had. The roads had steep switchbacks with sharp hairpin corners – a true roller coaster ride. Tractor-trailers coming at us required their entire lane and half of ours to make the corners (not much of a problem for a motorcycle but if driving a car, it would be a real challenge).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBhic0cFwNfY1TSx7gAlxN5WVKCSf6PTbzFdtxSZxZqT-6m2RIhdLLWtfMslpM8KL76R4klasq-dXgH8iS2PczGDZ9ZE2aMGViql-5Uy3MFzvO80NLuF4Pzo33e4-Lx4UP2427XEF6_ZzA/s1600-h/P1110326.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBhic0cFwNfY1TSx7gAlxN5WVKCSf6PTbzFdtxSZxZqT-6m2RIhdLLWtfMslpM8KL76R4klasq-dXgH8iS2PczGDZ9ZE2aMGViql-5Uy3MFzvO80NLuF4Pzo33e4-Lx4UP2427XEF6_ZzA/s320/P1110326.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426339242204531858" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmqbiND5gyxT0-SqnaffMN9aHStNlQbniEn_auJk2Z3kx35Sf7mPnt-uvI5D9ppL84aVJKWw7yUgLOoeywN-DIUeEKZPw-xTRBiU9Jnh2SdcZ5W5o0kDuYm5iPqroBvdjBsiwJ3JtBdTAb/s1600-h/P1110328.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmqbiND5gyxT0-SqnaffMN9aHStNlQbniEn_auJk2Z3kx35Sf7mPnt-uvI5D9ppL84aVJKWw7yUgLOoeywN-DIUeEKZPw-xTRBiU9Jnh2SdcZ5W5o0kDuYm5iPqroBvdjBsiwJ3JtBdTAb/s320/P1110328.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426339178609559970" /></a><br />We traversed several ranges which appeared to be just under 9,000 feet - - I can’t imagine what it will be like later in the trip when we’re in the Bolivian Andes at nearly 16,000 feet.<br /><br />A dead cow and dead horse road kill were reminders that livestock is always a problem on the road.<br /><br />Approaching Durango without a functioning GPS and not obediently following the crowd (which has been my custom) I got onto the wrong Route 40 and got totally lost. Thanks to e-mail I found the crowd 2 hours later and we headed south towards Zacatecas. The delay required us to drive after dark – not what anyone likes to do in Mexico. <br /><br />By this time, Vincent and Roger had gotten lost but we met up at a predetermined gas station. We found a simple hotel and ordered a ghastly vegetarian pizza before turning in for the night. <br /><br />In addition to being a challenging day of riding, it also once again demonstrated the flexibility of a global economy. <br />-I met a man with three small girls at a restaurant who was both a US and Mexican citizen. He established a cleaning company (maids cleaning houses and offices) in Arizona and Texas. He prefers living in Durango and raising his children as Mexicans - - so the Texas and Arizona phones ring in Durango and he runs the entire business from Mexico.<br />-Later in the evening the President of our CNG car company called me from China via Skype to show me (from half way around the world) some new compressor components that we’re having manufactured there and we discussed several quality and business issues.<br /><br />Tomorrow we drive to San Miguel de Allende to see my sister, her friend Derek and Marge and have yet another birthday party for me and Helge.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-86428627657049331462010-01-12T08:48:00.000-08:002010-01-13T10:23:30.629-08:00Day 6 – January 10We awoke and had a leisurely breakfast – I had gone to bed at 5:30 last night and woke at 7:45 assuming I had missed breakfast (but it was still night). Packing a leisurely 12 hour sleep, I woke up amazingly refreshed, without back pain and ready to attack the world. Here is the view out the window: <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVV6ypjlnuN0DWUHgDcoZxwM3I45qES6D4Y-rLefvpF3cCW30MeHotj7bM9i2uSxuqi4-CdQsbaOkAr1OfetnZ_rziQ6dF4eGMiXAzgJQS6MsC7EXDnmmQz9HgXUTIVadA05YrtgGWTKq2/s1600-h/P1100299.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVV6ypjlnuN0DWUHgDcoZxwM3I45qES6D4Y-rLefvpF3cCW30MeHotj7bM9i2uSxuqi4-CdQsbaOkAr1OfetnZ_rziQ6dF4eGMiXAzgJQS6MsC7EXDnmmQz9HgXUTIVadA05YrtgGWTKq2/s320/P1100299.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425897441470578450" /></a><br />Roger, Vincent and I spent part of the morning shopping for Helge’s birthday and we’ll have a party for him on the ferry as we cross the Gulf. We had a bountiful collection of presents – first, four pieces of delicious cake with candles; second (as you can see below on the attractive serving girl – who is not included in the gift) a pair of handcuffs, inferring that we never want him to leave our side;<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwfQFX11Fc7LC1BT3DSHSvWXVUP8EctpskYOuUYYZ_CI8scbCxXy-5pkf2Hq-LVCFksctTBR94doiP1VdUGNRV5mSIEgDnGdvWP5YrRlKt2EM57NyGTuDz28ADSV4mdsqF_1OXiZy3FDUu/s1600-h/P1100298.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwfQFX11Fc7LC1BT3DSHSvWXVUP8EctpskYOuUYYZ_CI8scbCxXy-5pkf2Hq-LVCFksctTBR94doiP1VdUGNRV5mSIEgDnGdvWP5YrRlKt2EM57NyGTuDz28ADSV4mdsqF_1OXiZy3FDUu/s320/P1100298.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426291515976747330" /></a><br /><br />third, a simplified camera – the $15,000 worth of camera gear is not critical – a simple camera will do; fourth, a bag of marbles – in case he loses his (doubtful); fifth, a back-scratcher – in case he needs an extra hand (shouldn’t rely on us); sixth, a compass – so that he doesn’t have to rely on those infernal GPS devices; and the seventh present is unrecognizable to me.<br /><br />I torked down the spring on my rear shock – but in case this doesn’t work, Marge is bringing along an extra shock with a heavier spring and an additional much heavier spring. This will give me three options for rear suspension on the rest of the trip.<br /><br />We checked out at 1:00 and headed down to the beach on the other side of the ferry (5 miles away) for lunch and some photo sessions. While waiting for the ferry we had lunch at a beautiful beach spot – one of the few on the Baja.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0XnEA30P9hk4xrZWN8bpEokb-5xeTDilYfhY6PKK2Rn7iY4O28Bwxg7fpYzc2kWELuEWX0cud5XEBMkjl8y5icR5Y500c0jt_Zg3poXgx0PsUEtx5rByTcYbVqhKg4wHgfga3oLqXi4Aw/s1600-h/P1100304.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0XnEA30P9hk4xrZWN8bpEokb-5xeTDilYfhY6PKK2Rn7iY4O28Bwxg7fpYzc2kWELuEWX0cud5XEBMkjl8y5icR5Y500c0jt_Zg3poXgx0PsUEtx5rByTcYbVqhKg4wHgfga3oLqXi4Aw/s320/P1100304.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425898749778553762" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0HshydTZiYcpXl_JOxVGA5K4-Iq-lXGBTaeN-rFPf2iF_A2XdrbcC6yr29Lv62dR_xh2BY3nzsEyaTMixRhAcUyShmFRpokPGltifrrcw2EFKv4lyk-z_RN-WWDSD_wgBEdvf9WrejojP/s1600-h/P1100306.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0HshydTZiYcpXl_JOxVGA5K4-Iq-lXGBTaeN-rFPf2iF_A2XdrbcC6yr29Lv62dR_xh2BY3nzsEyaTMixRhAcUyShmFRpokPGltifrrcw2EFKv4lyk-z_RN-WWDSD_wgBEdvf9WrejojP/s320/P1100306.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425898690965635202" /></a><br />We loaded our bikes on the second deck of the ferry which was virtually empty.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNZlIWC0q-6-wagwR7V6SPkoaaKdV-6F3368Bd3hdKq_zWVA1GTBLfPwv-5GAEQ30etEI7b7MkcL8gdy2DXGU4MEVHOj8N3Hp2D9HA233BlnSCqJfyZWjIHIhZoQhrEUVXoGjNw1OGFFJS/s1600-h/P1100310.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNZlIWC0q-6-wagwR7V6SPkoaaKdV-6F3368Bd3hdKq_zWVA1GTBLfPwv-5GAEQ30etEI7b7MkcL8gdy2DXGU4MEVHOj8N3Hp2D9HA233BlnSCqJfyZWjIHIhZoQhrEUVXoGjNw1OGFFJS/s320/P1100310.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425898917580219186" /></a><br />That evening on the ferry, we threw Helge a birthday party and it was a great success.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoQFKYN5gM25DghfFEbs-FeuPMW0owNGP7iYWYGEKmGsoq56HUbQXDJZoe3kmoxDTPdGfs80l4L64VxEVlu8nQfrobciByfBhJse5VokV5zgzwAL507CH9dva-UzWPk2B_nQ7OQ7p52YxF/s1600-h/P1110316.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoQFKYN5gM25DghfFEbs-FeuPMW0owNGP7iYWYGEKmGsoq56HUbQXDJZoe3kmoxDTPdGfs80l4L64VxEVlu8nQfrobciByfBhJse5VokV5zgzwAL507CH9dva-UzWPk2B_nQ7OQ7p52YxF/s320/P1110316.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425899129626462834" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyqSiczg953cE99O8UIoezanGwXlL7zB9t_MyLySNuirHxd8_glWMGlsWMHHCs1nEbdLd3_v_MRdChsW-QYMzzPr_5otglrczrOFkBsBsjhtc7Lr6DuZqva3qwZLQw9pRstBgNkPWXrdrl/s1600-h/P1110319.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyqSiczg953cE99O8UIoezanGwXlL7zB9t_MyLySNuirHxd8_glWMGlsWMHHCs1nEbdLd3_v_MRdChsW-QYMzzPr_5otglrczrOFkBsBsjhtc7Lr6DuZqva3qwZLQw9pRstBgNkPWXrdrl/s320/P1110319.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425899072559005874" /></a><br />He loved the handcuffs, compass and other paraphernalia we had gotten. Since he’s the youngest in the group (somewhere around 55) he had to sit in the baby chair.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0YN0j9y0aj_XWMU_6g4KKtzrNu29cx7UOiKmPuDtIIjM0L9Yd7MXDDM6NsIv3FLzz54X9tUU96f0mo1pNBjPwFOJNgyPJO0G3Th-RdABNcVO24f1_JsRwVs8d7yjCw5RTsgn0euDpE69u/s1600-h/P1100314.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0YN0j9y0aj_XWMU_6g4KKtzrNu29cx7UOiKmPuDtIIjM0L9Yd7MXDDM6NsIv3FLzz54X9tUU96f0mo1pNBjPwFOJNgyPJO0G3Th-RdABNcVO24f1_JsRwVs8d7yjCw5RTsgn0euDpE69u/s320/P1100314.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425899280141535394" /></a><br />Following the ferry ride we have a 600 mile ride to my sister Harriet’s house in San Miguel. A portion of the ride is over “the devil’s backbone” which is a serpentine steep rode over the mountains. The two days it will take to cross the 600 miles will be long given the topography and I don’t expect that we will have e-mail connections until arriving at Harriet’s in San Miguel.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2211028942611009428.post-35504304939638176832010-01-12T08:42:00.000-08:002010-01-12T08:47:26.001-08:00Day 5 – January 9We had a relatively short trip today (as the crow flies) - - we went south along the coast for a short distance and then turned inland over a mountain range (approximately 1,500 feet) with a lot of twists and turns and steep hills and descents. We reached a straight boring road on a desert plane – lots of cactuses.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAfc7gkwQR2Ctr3ysJeDf_DdXWsrHZPoBFrxhqWYzEZdt5tCl8cFFvft3KsCDMwMzSCoXun3g_A9e18dsk0eLOd8VzAu9RB3MdxWqrjssW9WEvUcnfjxa1vtnJ4S78NlVkJgJyztQ_e7bd/s1600-h/P1080280.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAfc7gkwQR2Ctr3ysJeDf_DdXWsrHZPoBFrxhqWYzEZdt5tCl8cFFvft3KsCDMwMzSCoXun3g_A9e18dsk0eLOd8VzAu9RB3MdxWqrjssW9WEvUcnfjxa1vtnJ4S78NlVkJgJyztQ_e7bd/s320/P1080280.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425895304006203314" /></a><br />Along the way we saw attempts at farming, but it was basically desert land in a low enough spot to be pumped onto the surface.<br /><br />At the end of the plane we took Route 1 over a small mountain range into La Paz (175,000 people), the largest city south of Tijuana on the Baja Peninsula. The city has an attractive waterfront promenade with roller skating and bicycle riding. The benches along the promenade offer views of the deserted offshore islands and beautiful turquoise water.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFf_82klds5Tdd_nD3EMUejm_PX3_FVZWL2QwGtAxQga42EwtlwoEI4cUQ_xIjBNa-D_UF23nCU1yYM6n99-S6Wydj3mjdD5UZ7QenH62j9ftpAUyyk1g3AJsstyuZvla5MZBtl_tYyByR/s1600-h/P1100301.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFf_82klds5Tdd_nD3EMUejm_PX3_FVZWL2QwGtAxQga42EwtlwoEI4cUQ_xIjBNa-D_UF23nCU1yYM6n99-S6Wydj3mjdD5UZ7QenH62j9ftpAUyyk1g3AJsstyuZvla5MZBtl_tYyByR/s320/P1100301.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425895466477864034" /></a><br />We went looking for camping spots but elected to stay in a downtown hotel with a large sign proclaiming “keep all valuables with you - not responsible for lost or stolen articles.”<br /><br />Tomorrow we will take the ferry from La Paz to Mazatlán – about a 12 hour trip across the Gulf of California. The ferry looks enormous and is largely used for freight (looks as though they will be packing our motorcycles into coat closets).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizlp9_2LHHw4Id0zjHPTGBWcuorM2Yw_Nm86b0Y5-4t4I6Em5jPmRmn-IWEOBexnyOG74-7RxRKH_sRgvS9litIeG2bqlRqUEiKOHnSLVGyKGr16eE6EdThyqLz-CGIj1ZGfIaa_F-JqQ7/s1600-h/P1100311.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizlp9_2LHHw4Id0zjHPTGBWcuorM2Yw_Nm86b0Y5-4t4I6Em5jPmRmn-IWEOBexnyOG74-7RxRKH_sRgvS9litIeG2bqlRqUEiKOHnSLVGyKGr16eE6EdThyqLz-CGIj1ZGfIaa_F-JqQ7/s320/P1100311.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5425895679184499378" /></a><br />Evident in La Paz is the financial meltdown – the tourist trade is significantly down and there are frequent examples of “see through” buildings laying half finished waiting for the economy to improve.Danhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08032247242988042590noreply@blogger.com0